cape dory 36 sailboat review

Cape Dory 36

Pretty lines and forgiving design from Carl Alberg, plus a sturdy build, make this classic a capable offshore cruiser

People are often surprised when they see the image of a handsome Cape Dory 36 pop up on my slide show of 25 great boats for bluewater sailing. Although I think it's beautiful, I don't hide the fact that I am not wild about full keel, short waterline boats. So why is it on my list? First, it is a well-proven Carl Alberg design with countless ocean miles logged, including a couple of circumnavigations. Secondly, it is well engineered and built with quality fittings. And finally, with prices dropping below $60,000, it has changed from being expensive to reasonably affordable, especially for a serious cruising boat.

Andrew Vavolotis founded Cape Dory Yachts in 1963. The fledgling company went from building the original 10-foot Cape Dory to becoming one of America's premier sailboat builders in the 1970s and 1980s. From the legendary 19-foot Typhoon Weekender to a 45-foot world cruiser, all Cape Dories had one common denominator: designer Alberg. Prolific and consistent, Alberg was a believer in long keels with attached rudders, narrow beam and relatively slack bilges, and easy-to-handle sailplans, preferably cutters. His designs are humble and seaworthy. The 36 was very successful. Introduced in 1978, it remained in production for 12 years and 165 hulls were launched. When Cape Dory went out of business in 1991, Vavolotis managed to keep the 36 molds and transported them to Robinhood Marine in Georgetown, Maine. The CD 36 was reborn as the Robinhood 36, and was available as a semi-custom boat until recently, although just a handful were actually built and sold.

First Impressions The Cape Dory 36 looks at ease in the water. The 36 has a subtle sheerline, and the low freeboard accentuates a low-slung profile. Alberg was a master of creating boats of moderate proportions that gave the impression of being heavier and more conservative than they really were. For example, the CD 36 has a displacement of 16,100 pounds. Contrasted with the Westsail 32's 19,500-pound displacement, the CD 36 is much lighter. Displacement is only part of the equation. The CD 36 has 9 feet of overhangs, and the 27-foot LWL is just 75% of the LOA, which makes it beautiful to look at but not speedy. The full keel is cutaway forward with an attached rudder and the prop is enclosed in an aperture. Most CD 36s were rigged as cutters with a club boom, a few came from the factory as sloops.

Construction For the most part Cape Dory did an excellent job of building boats and the proof is how well they've held up. The hull is hand-laid in a rotating, one-piece mold with alternating layers of fiberglass mat and woven roving. The deck is balsa cored except in areas of high loads and stresses where it is solid glass, plywood or aluminum. The hull-and-deck joint is on a wide, 3-inch inward flange and through-bolted on 12-inch centers, which makes sense. The chemical mastic bond is what keeps the joint from leaking, especially with a uniformly wide flange, and fasteners placed closer together do little to increase strength but plenty to increase the chances of a hull-and-deck joint leak. Separate tools, or molds, were used to lay up the headliner and the pans in the V-berth and galley. A fiberglass subfloor adds additional athwarthships support, but further limits hull access. The ballast is cast in two pieces and placed inside the keel cavity. It is secured in place with several layers of fiberglass and covered with gelcoat for a smooth, clean bilge finish. The rudder combines two fiberglass half shells filled with a polyester compound and is built around a beefy 1 ½-inch stock.

What to look for The CD 36 has few serious problems as a class. Check for signs of deck delamination, not that it's a common problem, but with a balsa-cored deck you need to be wary. Some owners have had problems with the rudder delaminating. The most serious potential problem is with the chainplates, especially on hulls before No. 71. These early boats had a mild steel web that was used to attach the lower shrouds and the backstay to the hull and this unusual metal bracket was prone to rusting and corrosion. There is plenty of information about chainplate issues and solutions on the Cape Dory owner's page at www.capedory.org. After hull No. 71, an aluminum angle bar was fiberglassed to the hull just below the deck flange. The chainplate tangs were bolted to this weldment, which distributed the rig loads evenly, and most importantly, it didn't corrode as quickly.

On deck Most Cape Dory 36s have wheel steering, and the T-shaped cockpit was designed to accommodate a pedestal and decent-sized wheel. There are tiller boats, and if you will be fitting a windvane self-steering device, a tiller might be preferred. Otherwise, I would look for a CD 36 with a wheel because of the mechanical advantage it offers. The CD 36 can generate plenty of weather helm and the wheel eases the steering load. The visibility from the helm is excellent and the narrow beam places the sheet winches within easy reach. Yet the cockpit still feels spacious and there's plenty of storage with lockers port and starboard and a lazarette astern for the propane tanks. Teak coaming boards are elegant but they are hard on the back and overall the cockpit well is a bit shallow. There's a stout bridgedeck and the mainsheet traveler is usually set up on a bridge spanning the companionway with midboom sheeting on what is a proportionately long boom. For a narrow boat, the CD 36 side decks are wide and there are long teak handrails atop the cabinhouse and a stout teak toerail. The single-spreader mast is keel-stepped and heavily stayed. The original staysail design called for a club boom, but many boats now have refit the staysail with furling gear.

Down below The CD 36 interior plan is straightforward and functional, and the level of finish is exceptional. Dropping below through the slightly off-center main hatch you find yourself in the galley, with two large sinks and a three-burner cooker. The comparatively small fridge is aft. The small nav station and quarterberth are opposite the galley to starboard. Unfortunately the electrical panel is located directly below the companionway behind the steps. One owner I noticed had covered the panel with clear plastic to keep it dry. The saloon includes an L-shaped settee to port with a straight settee opposite. I like the fold-up table that can be mounted on the bulkhead. Although the 6-foot, 4-inch headroom helps, you can't help but notice how narrow the boat is in the saloon. Continuing forward the head is to port with a hanging locker opposite. The V-berth cabin is spacious. There is storage in well-crafted drawers below the bunks. This is definitely the cabin for sleeping when at anchor, with a large overhead hatch and opening portlights to move the air around. Ventilation is excellent throughout the boat with plenty of opening bronze portlights.

Engine The old reliable Perkins 4-108 4-cylinder 50-horsepower diesel engine was standard on the CD 36. It is shoehorned into place behind the companionway with just enough room to work on it, and most maintenance items are within easy reach. The fuel tank is fiberglass, although some owners have retrofitted an aluminum tank. The engine compartment was nicely soundproofed.

Underway The CD 36 has been unfairly maligned when it comes to performance. You can't compare them to more modern hull shapes. The Cape Dory 36 tracks well and resists pounding in a seaway. With an SA/D of 15.7 and a D/L of 356, the CD 36 isn't fast, but it can carry sail and continue to make way when lighter, faster boats are running for cover in heavy air. Wide sheeting angles, a moderate-aspect rig and long keel prevent it from sailing close to the wind. But the CD 36 tracks quite well, as long as you don't pinch. And finally, the CD 36 heaves-to very well and this is very reassuring to bluewater sailors.

Conclusion The Cape Dory 36 is a quality cruising boat with a proven conservative design and impressive offshore track record. It's not flashy or fast but it is capable and also represents a solid financial value. This is a boat that you confidently entrust with your precious cruising dreams.

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Vice Commodore:
Rear Commodore:
Secretary: Vacant
Treasurer: Membership Chairperson:



		Nautical Quarterly In the same year that I retired from the Navy to turn professional yachtsman, a much younger man embarked upon a boatbuilding venture. Andrew Vavolotis, sailor and professional engineer, had learned much of his boatbuilding skill with the Boston Whaler Company and determined to try it on his own in 1962. He is still at it, and most successfully. Construction of the first Cape Dory, a 15-footer, began in his garage in Brockton, Massachusetts. Soon he moved to a shop in West Bridgewater where he built fiberglass boats by day and drove the truck that delivered them at night. Three companies are now under his private ownership and personal direction-Cape Dory Yachts, Spartan Hardware, and Cape Dory Charters, Inc. Each one interlocks in this story of his 36' cutter. The development of Cape Dory Yachts is a Horatio Alger story. Because it was and still is a private company in the process of growing, decisions had to be very carefully made; there was no room for failure. Steps up the ladder from the first 15-footer to this 36' cruising vessel, launched three years ago, took fifteen of the eighteen elapsed years since the start of the company. From the 19' Typhoon daysailer to the projected 45' ocean cruiser now in design, the concept of Andy Vavolotis's boats has changed little save in size and the requirement of ocean-going ability. They have all been full-keeled, easily-handled vessels with emphasis upon rugged construction, simplicity and safety. Six years ago, Andy Vavolotis started the related company, Spartan. As his yachts grew larger, more specialized hardware began to be required; changes in design meant seeking out new suppliers; spar and rigging contracts had to be changed, and essential quality control could not be exercised over someone else's manufacturing. Spartan was born of this need and now occupies a part of the East Taunton Factory where almost all of the hardware, spars and rigging components for Cape Dory Yachts are manufactured. Not only has this contributed to the quality of Cape Dory's own yachts, but also directly to revenue since many Spartan products, such as its well-designed bronze seacocks, are sold to other manufacturers. This associated company now stands upon its own feet. The Cape Dory Charter Company, moving into its third season, is another smart move. Unlike most charter companies which practice a variety of lease-back and similar tax-avoidance schemes to stock their fleets, this one owns its own boats, assigned new to a small fleet operating out of Marion, Massachusetts and, during the winter months, Clearwater, Florida. This organization serves two excellent purposes: it is a fine testing ground for the boats and, secondly, it enables a prospective purchaser to spend a week in the yacht of his choice before making a decision to purchase. If he buys, his charter fee is returned; if he doesn't, at least he's had a sailing holiday. This seems to us a neat way to sell a boat, and an even better way to buy one. To return to our subject, the Cape Dory 36, it is obvious that the faithful relationship with Carl Alberg that this company has maintained over the years is in large measure responsible for the success of this boat. In the world of cruising yachtsmen, no designer is more respected. Carl Alberg is a man of the old school, yet his designs remain consistently contemporary. Those that have been launched by good builders have become sought-after classics. Alberg, resting on well-earned laurels in semi-retirement, nevertheless still works closely with Cape Dory Yachts. The 36 is a joint product of his design skill and the practical specifications provided by Vavolotis and his team. Finally, as engineer and chief of quality control at the factory, whom do we find but OSTAR competitor Jim Kyle, class winner in the Bermuda singlehander. Like all good sailors, he is a careful fellow, and he greeted us with some suspicion. Not until we had exchanged a variety of nautical experiences over lunch did he pay us a somewhat backhanded compliment; he was "happy to find we weren't writers, but seemed to know what we were talking about!" Jim Kyle's quality control is far more than two words in his title; there is an effective team, with each man an authority in his own field. Together they operate with the aid of lengthy checklists, backed up by in-house mechanical and chemical test facilities. While not wishing to extol unduly the virtues of singlehanders (some people think they're crazy), one must admit that their practical survival training when coupled to engineering and design degrees imbues confidence in the quality they control. Kyle is not a man to countenance poor practice in the production of an ocean-cruising yacht. And so to the construction of the 36. The layup is conventional alternate layers of hand-laid mat and roving, tapering from a total of 15 layers at the keel down to 10 at the topside flange. A chopper gun is, however, used to set the first layer behind the gelcoat on the hulls and to a greater extent in deck laminates; but to minimize the possibility of gelcoat stress cracks at coachroof corners and cockpit coamings, unidirectional glass strand is laid in as reinforcement. The molding shops are carefully controlled for both temperature and air purity by powerful fan/filters; the bulk resin is stored in tanks and piped from them to the working areas by means of a central resin distribution system where it is subject to frequent chemical check. We were particularly impressed by the care devoted to the design and construction of the rudder. The 1 1/2" stainless stock bar is curved inside the molding, following the shape of the cutout for the propeller. The stock bar is solidly glassed into a prepared trough. At the base of the rudder a cast bronze web with gudgeon tube accepts the pintle pin on the heel casting which is also glassed into the rudder molding. Next, the half shells are tilled with reinforced polyester compound, glassed together and carefully sealed with fiberglass tape. One of Jim Kyle's phobias is the use of welding in a marine environment, either for stainless steel or aluminum. He has a valid point, for the molecular disturbance will create the possibility of small areas of metal in way of the weldings becoming vulnerable to corrosion. For this reason he has avoided the use of welding where possible in the manufacture of hull hardware and spars. An exception is the heavy steel bracket which holds the steering sheaves and stops. This is not stainless, but mild steel, and is heavily paint-dipped for protection. Spartan spar construction shows similar attention to practical detail. At the spreader attachment points, for instance, the compression tubes do not pass through the mast where stress can be transferred from one to the other. Instead, they are carefully placed inside the mast extrusion, thus confining the load to the walls of the mast. The gooseneck fitting is simple and strong, again not welded but fitted and screwed into the boom. In the unlikely event of failure, a spare can be easily substituted. This philosophy of practical simplicity is evident throughout the construction and outfitting of this yacht. Chainplate construction is again unusual, but has both logical and sound engineering precedent. To remove as much steel as possible, a change has been made here. In earlier hulls a steel web was used, but after hull No. 71, now on the line, it is replaced by an aluminum angle bar. Some three feet in length, this plate is glassed with uni-directional strands into the hull under the lip. It is positioned during the hull layup process, and the first layers of unidirectional are led behind the last layers of roving, thus interlocking the whole structure. Finally, the wide deck plates, well bedded, are bolted through the deck/hull flange and aluminum bar. This system eliminates any possible movement between chainplate and deck, so often a source of leaks. Since the aluminum plate is molded into the hull, which is also reinforced by the unidirectional glass for a considerable distance down to its thicker cross-section, the loads are evenly distributed and well spread. Bulkheads and floors are well bonded, glasswork tidy and joinery neat. As we approached the end of the production line another unusual but simple alternative solution to a major problem in fiberglass yacht construction was found. The usual practice in developing a strong hull/deck joint is to rely upon a heavy mastic for sealing while giving strength by installing stainless-steel bolts at 4"-5" centers on a lip of about 2". Cape Dory's system attempts to keep the mechanical strength of bolts but also to eliminate leaks by reducing, insofar as practical, the number of through-deck fastenings. Thus they extend the lip to some 3 1/4" and use a semi-rigid polyester bonding compound with considerable sheer strength. The joint is held tight by fasteners during the bonding process. After curing, these are replaced by 1/2" stainless bolts at 12" centers. The latter are then covered by a well-bedded teak toerail whose screws pass through both deck and hull flange for additional strength. A teak rubrail is then screwed into the hull molding. It is significant that the thickness of the hull laminate at the flange is some 3/8", substantial in a vessel of this size. Turning to electrical and engineering systems, we will comment on what we were able to observe along the production line. A separate lightning protection system consists of direct bonding of mast and shrouds to an external grounding plate. Thus, the jolt of a lightning strike is kept away from both electrical equipment and the through-hull bonding system, which is an entirely separate web connecting all through-hulls and tank groundings. An integral 36-gallon fiberglass holding tank is glassed into the hull molding above the ballast. The 43-gallon fiberglass fuel tank and four molded polyethylene water tanks with a total capacity of 110 gallons are well secured in molded saddles. A 6-gallon hot water heater installed in the port locker is standard equipment. Two heavy-duty 12-volt batteries, also carried in this locker, have properly color-coded leads, and are well stowed in ventilated plastic containers and strapped down, but readily accessible for servicing. Electrical circuitry is efficiently installed, with 110- and 12-volt breaker panels well set up. Polarity alarm, battery test and red circuit indicator lights are all standard equipment. There is hot water and a shower, but refrigeration must be an owner option. The 110 circuits are supplied for water heater and outlets only, but three additional plugs are available on the breaker panel for battery charger or other options. On the 12-volt panel a breaker is provided for the radio and for the instruments; again, two spares are available for extra circuitry such as stereo or Loran systems. The installation of the Perkins 4-108 diesel allows ease of maintenance, the compartment is nicely soundproofed, and a drip tray is provided. Two filters on the fuel line, one a water separator, are standard. Engine bearers are steel-cored fiberglass strongly bonded to the hull with the load well spread. Noteworthy is the prop-log stuffing box, a "Spartan special" designed so that it can be adjusted with the tap of a hammer instead of the usual battle of finding a wrench to fit-cunning! The interior is light, bright and airy. Perhaps the most outstanding feature is the warmth and luxury of the polished bronze portlights and hardware supplied by Spartan. These are a Cape Dory trademark, but they are not just decorative; the portlights are very tough hardware and carry heavy safety glass which has plenty of strength and will not craze with age. In the old pre-war Navy days, it was said that one of the reasons there was so much brass around was that it gave the crew something to do when they were not fighting. Maybe polishing all these beautiful fittings will keep the crew from fighting. Providing, of course, that they take turns! In the standard V-berth (with filler) forecabin there is 4" foam upholstery, ample headroom and satisfactory dressing space. The head is a glass molding easy to keep clean and very adequate in space and arrangement. The basin, shower and ice box drain into a bilge sump. This we don't much like, since emptying the bathwater into the basement is not good housekeeping. Bilge sumps are difficult to clean and get very "ucky" with old soap, - spilt milk, etc. A shower sump with automatic overboard discharge and a small hand pump for removal of icebox sediment into a sink-drain connection would be preferable. The galley is good news, with plenty of working, drawer and stowage space. Jean again complained that she found no allowance for her toes under the counters. Like gimballed tables, these spaces under galley furniture, which make standing at work so much more comfortable, seem to be rare. We also felt that in a 36' cruising vessel an alternative refrigeration system might be taken into account, and that the 2 1/2" insulation of the box is marginal. In tropical conditions, nothing under 3" is really effective. The gimballed 3-burner stove with oven is available with either alcohol or gas fuel to ABYC-approved systems. Despite these quibbles, our enthusiasm for the general standard of the interior remains: 6'4" headroom in the saloon with grabrails both sides, in addition to drip rails under the ports. Comfortable settees with sloped backs. Solid drop table with shelves behind on the bulkhead. (A pedestal table is an available option.) One touch much appreciated by old cruising hands is the thought applied to the Cape Dory 36 "Owner's Manual." This includes a commissioning check list, simple instructions on all systems, including pipe and wiring diagrams, and even a list of addresses for all subcontractors together with part numbers-everything from sheet blocks to light bulbs. And so on deck for the sea trial. An inspection of this boat's rigging inspires confidence-with standing rigging 1 x 19 Seabrite stainless to open Merriman turnbuckles and toggles, and halyards all rope in the form of pre-stretched Marlow braid. Spreaders are very wide and shroud leads well out to give both good mast support and clear space for movement fore and aft on deck. Double-rail stainless pulpit and stemrail, double guardrails, small cockpit well with ample seats, and half deck with good sill height to companionway-all contribute to a feeling of security in ocean sailing and the assurance of comfort and deck space for weekend cruising. The boomed staysail and mainsheets clear of the cockpit, with provision for double jiffy reefing, seven Lewmar winches with two-speed #40 self-tailing Lewmar primaries, and light and sensitive wheel, made control and sail handling a pleasure. Under both power and sail the yacht maneuvered like a dinghy, turning in both directions almost in her own length. Under power, the Cape Dory 36 exceeds seven knots at cruising rpm and moves without fuss. Noise level is low in the cockpit and below. Under sail, with wind speeds between fifteen and eighteen knots, we carried 100% genoa, staysail and full main. The boat is stiff, but control was finger light on all headings. There was no compass on board so that accurate tack angles could not be obtained, but she drove well to windward with staysail slightly eased to provide a good slot. Under main and staysail only, tacking without sheet handling was quick and acceleration was good. We did not encounter rough water this trip, but in the slight chop there was little movement. During the sailing trial we were accompanied by the new owners, who had just completed sailing school. This was their first "big" boat and their first time out in her. After some initial apprehension they began to share our confidence. When we departed we were convinced that they had chosen well; they would have little difficulty mastering this wholesome thoroughbred and were destined to enjoy some very rewarding sailing. Altogether, we found the Cape Dory 36 an excellent vessel for the cruising sailor - comfortable, simple, seamanlike. She should be equally at home on a social weekend or an ocean crossing.
LOA:	36' 1 1/2"
LWL:	27'
Beam:	10' 8"
Draft:	5'
Sail Area:	622 sq. ft.
Ballast:	6050 pounds
Displacement:	16,100 pounds
Fuel:	42 gallons
Water:	130 gallons
Power:	Perkins 50-HP 4-108 diesel
Spars:	Aluminum finished with Awlgrip
Designer:	Carl Alberg
Builder:	Cape Dory Yachts, 160 Middleboro Avenue, East Taunton, MA 02718

Page last updated February 7, 2000.

Article and illustrations scanned and clearance obtained by Ken Coit ., who says:

"We have a number of people to thank for gaining the right to publish the article on the web site:

Fraser and Jean Fraser-Harris, of Bristol, UK, the authors.

Joseph P. Gribbins, the Editor of Nautical Quarterly at that time and now with Mystic Seaport did a bit of research on the article for us.

Dave Perry, formerly the Sales Manager for Cape Dory and now with Robinhood Marine, who identified Windsong, the individuals in the photos, the fact that the photos were from a Cape Dory brochure, and that Windsong was in the fleet of Cape Dory Charters.

Dave Perry tells us that the crew on the photo shoot were all Cape Dory employees and had signed releases: Lou Scott, Purchasing Manager at CDY is at the helm, Ed Reily, Quality Control inspector, on port side and Hunter Scott, Assistant Production Manager, is starboard.

Esther Pope, Editorial Assistant at Soundings, helped get the ball rolling with an address for Fraser and Jean Fraser-Harris in the UK and the lead to Joe Gribbins at Mystic Seaport.

And, there were others who responded to my direct inquiries or broadcasts for assistance with clues about Windsong. "


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Cape Dory & Robinhood
Fixin' Things

Cape Dory 36 & Robinhood 36 Sailboats

Florian on the truck, arriving in Ventura, CA - and in her slip with Don

Florian's roomy deck is perfect for one of our niece's to explore

Just after Don re-painted the Dorade cowls

Florian's galley the day she was lowered into Pacific water.
I sat and stared - marinating on the realization that we owned this beautiful boat.

Photos I snapped of Florian the day she was moved from the truck to the water

Sitting on the v-berth, looking aft

Florian on the first weekend in her slip

On the truck - just arrived from Maine (April 2012).
Getting acquainted with [petting] her hull. :)

6 comments:

Thank-you for the background on the Robinhood 36. It's a handsome boat with a warm interior. She looks to be well founded and will prove to be a good cruiser.

I concur: The CD36 and the Robinhood are virtually identical. I see a few differences here and there, but there were changes between the early-model CD36s and the later models. Our cockpit coaming, for example, is teak board. In the cabin, the mast is exposed and the head compartment does not extend as far forward into the v-berth as yours appears to. Otherwise, she's much the same...Gorgeous and traditional!

By the way, I love the picture of you patting her hull. I do that several times during the winter to reassure Ariel that she'll be in the water again soon.

That's just a lovely hull! I see that you are already treating her like a member of the family!

Yeah, she really looks great. Warm, cozy, clean and homey. Looking forward to seeing her come along.

Thanks for all the nice comments, folks. As for petting her hull (and toe rail, and deck, and bulkheads, etc.) I can't explain where this habit came from, but it's almost unconscious - as I step aboard, or leave at the end of a weekend. And when I correspond with her original owners - the folks she was built for in 96 - they ask us to pat her hull with a hello from them. It's a sweet and funny thing, this boat-love. :)

Cape Dory 36 Kth

Cape Dory 36 Kth is a 36 ′ 1 ″ / 11 m monohull sailboat designed by Carl Alberg and built by Cape Dory Yachts between 1978 and 1990.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
LOA: Length overall in feet
Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

See CAPE DORY 36 for more details.

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Boat Comparison - Cape Dorys

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I'm looking at some boats and have been focused on Cape Dory's. I've been in touch with the Cape Dory Owners group but would like to hear the opinion of people on this board. I've been looking at a couple of 1980's era Cape Dorys that fit my price range. Two choices I've been considering are a Cape Dory 33/330 and a Cape Dory 36. Both are of similar condition, very good, ready to sail with only some TLC needed and upgrades that are optional and can be done over time and money and time allow. Both would meet my sailing and family needs. We could be comfortable in either size. My biggest consideration is how they would vary to sail. Pros and cons as I see it are: Cape Dory 36: PROS: Longer LWL a little faster hull speed. A little more room More stable length More room for times when my grown kids are aboard (rare). CONS: Larger heavier and less maneuverable Slightly more cost for haul out and hull paint Larger engine with fuel and maintenance costs Slightly harder to single hand in docking. More than enough room for two of us (most of the time) Cape Dory 33/330 PROS: Probably a better size for two More maneuverable - manageable size Easier sailing and docking single handed Simpler engine - less fuel - cheaper maintenance. Cheaper at haul out and hull refinishing CONS: slightly less stable. More cramped when the kids are aboard (rarely) Slightly slower hull speed Are there other Pros and Cons that I am missing? Are there likely to be any significant differences in sailing characteristics between the two lengths? Thanks for your thoughts and opinions.

These are both Alberg designs and are very similar. I don't think you will find that the 33 is any more maneuverable - they are both typical Alberg cutaway full keelers. I would think it would really come down to how much space you need, and how much expense you want down the road. Smaller is always less expensive (slip fees, haulout, bottom paint, rigging, etc.) 36 is a cutter rig typically, if that makes a difference to you. For offshore, I would prefer the cutter.

Lazerbrains said: ....I would think it would really come down to how much space you need, and how much expense you want down the road. Smaller is always less expensive (slip fees, haulout, bottom paint, rigging, etc.) 36 is a cutter rig typically, if that makes a difference to you. For offshore, I would prefer the cutter. Click to expand...

I learned to sail on a Cape Dory 28. Great boats. I don't think you'll find a huge amount of variation between how one full keel boat sails compared to another. They generally share the same strengths and weaknesses, ie excellent tracking and seakeeping, few if any keel and ballast issues, durability, well supported rudders, comfortable motion, etc. Of course you already know that they are less maneuverable, more difficult to reverse, don't point as high, etc. Basically they are all boats that are great at sea, not so great in port. As for the offset prop on the Sabre...pretty sure a big part of the idea is to try to reduce prop wash over the rudder. Prop walk can actually be useful for maneuvering.

Have had 3 CDs 4 if you include a Harpoon. Never had a 33 but can say the 36' is a brick outhouse of a boat. Can say it has a secure non pukeogenic ride and although very narrow by current standards a liveable interior. Think 2'itis is very contagious and increase in volume is not linear. Therefore if you can at all swing it would go with th 36'. Perhaps Carl's best boat.

Friend of ours is somewhere in the south pacific on a CD36 right now. No problems. Good quality boat in general. I wonder why someone felt a need to attempt to slander the Cat 34? While a few older Cat 30 keels had an attachment problem, I've not heard of a problem with the 34. That smile is quite repairable, on any make of boat... labor time and expertise... and of course some $$. (We shopped a Catalina 34, among other brands, before finding our present boat -- full disclosure.) Offset shaft angles have been used by C&C and others. Makes reversing "interesting". This was said to somewhat reduce torque steer going forward, but that could be just dock talk. Our boat's shaft is in line and this helps reversing and low speed maneuvering in general. Anyhooooo... Those classic Cape Dory's are lovely boats, with high build quality. Happy shopping, Loren ps: sorry to even comment on the post from the person about keels. Checking his (her?) bio, it's empty -- perhaps not a boat owner. Maybe just tossing out provocative comments to rile up the other inmates. Oh well.

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OPINION : CAPE DORY 36 VS. NIAGRA 35 OR OTHER....IS A FULL KEEL AND SKEG RUDDER THE BEST OPTION ??

Thread starter SailingFree
Start date Sep 25, 2020
Forums for All Owners
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SailingFree

I'M CONSIDERING 2 DIFFERENT SAILBOATS....THE CAPE DORY 36 OR THE NIAGRA HINTERHOELLER 35 OR ANOTHER.....PLS PROVIDE YOUR VIEWS.....I NEED THE BOAT TO HAVE BLUEWATER CAPABILITY WHEN I NEED IT TO BUT WILL BE DOING MOSTLY COASTAL CRUISING ALONG THE KEYS AND SAILING THE CARIBBEAN.....NO OCEAN CROSSINGS INTENDED.....WHAT BOAT DO YOU RECOMMEND ??.....THANK YOU !

Ok, welcome Sailing Free, first there is no need to use all caps. All caps is generally considered to be yelling or shouting. Not sure that this is way you want to come off. To your question, both boats are good boats, well built and suitable for coastal sailing. The Niagara 35 probably has a larger interior.

No yelling intended....the caps are just there to make it clearer....that whole caps = screaming is more of a gen X gen Y /snowflake thing which I think is pretty stupid.....but no yelling intended

dlochner said: Ok, welcome Sailing Free, first there is no need to use all caps. All caps is generally considered to be yelling or shouting. Not sure that this is way you want to come off. To your question, both boats are good boats, well built and suitable for coastal sailing. The Niagara 35 probably has a larger interior. Click to expand

Stu Jackson

SailingFree said: ...that whole caps = screaming is more of a gen X gen Y /snowflake thing which I think is pretty stupid.....but no yelling intended Click to expand

I'm nowhere near either of those Gens, and it reads like yelling to me! Also, just plain harder to read.

Stu Jackson said: Sorry, but it's simply a courtesy "thing." "gen" or "snowflake" is almost always projection. Sad...folk. So? Stop yelling. Thx, see how easy it is to keep caps lock off? Your "reason" to turn it on is, well, "snowflakie"... Click to expand

justsomeguy

Well, that escalated quickly.

Welcome SailingFree, Lets start this discussion again. RE: St Petersburg and Florida waters in general.......Draft is of importance to me and might be a prime consideration to you for coastal sailing in the Sunshine State. Compare draft of each boat along with other factors you can observe in the boat as you visit. Engine condition, accommodations, ground tackle, sail condition, functioning AC, and many more things must be considered. Enjoy the search.

Davidasailor26

Practical sailor did a review of the Niagara 35 and spoke well of the build quality - Niagara 31/35 - Practical Sailor . I can’t find a similar review from them of the Cape Dory 36. Anecdotally the Cape Dory’s I’ve seen have had more gelcoat cracks than other boats their age. +1 for 31Seahorse’s point about draft, but the Niagara only draws 2” more than the Cape Dory, so no big distinction there, and either is probably ok at around 5’. The full keel design is traditionally favored over the fin and spade for cruising, but people have used fin and spade designs in plenty of blue water crossings too, and it’ll probably sail to weather a lot better than the full keel. The Niagara rates about 27 seconds per mile faster than the Cape Dory in PHRF, which is not an insignificant amount. And PS studies have shown that the readability of all caps is less than properly cased text.

JK_Boston_Catalina310

You have touched one of the third rails of sailing (anchor choice and guns on boats being the other major third rail discussions). You will get a wide variety of responses, many of which are parroting other armchair sailors or saying their choice of boat is best My response is there are no such things as bluewater boats, only bluewater crews. I have seen morons sink Westsails within a few miles of harbor and met competent crews that have sailed a Beneteau around the world. There is no specific list of features that make one boat safer than another. Everything on a boat is a compromise and you need to evaluate those compromises for what fits you best. So why are you limiting your search to these two boats? Is there something about them that appeals to you or did you read about them on a list somewhere. Good luck and fair winds

SailingFree said: Ahhhh....that's called PROJECTION of Snow-flake-ness onto someone who is 54 years old ( probably old enough to be your father . ) and NOT a snowflake . ......see how easy that was guy ?? Click to expand

Here are a couple of points to consider. Fin keels, with or without wings, leave the prop and rudder more exposed to entanglement with lobster pot lines and the like. Full keels are nearly impossible to back up. If choosing a fin keel with wings look for one where the rudder is not the first thing to strike bottom in too shallow water. Fin keels when anchored can and do wrap the anchor line (if nylon and not all chain) around the keel if a kellet is not deployed. There are also centerboard keels to be considered. You are in a great place to be able to consider all the trade offs and to pick the best boat for your needs. None will be perfect for all conditions. Choose carefully.

Kings Gambit

JK_Boston_Catalina310 said: My response is there are no such things as bluewater boats, only bluewater crews. I have seen morons sink Westsails within a few miles of harbor and met competent crews that have sailed a Beneteau around the world. There is no specific list of features that make one boat safer than another. So why are you limiting your search to these two boats? Is there something about them that appeals to you or did you read about them on a list somewhere. Good luck and fair winds Click to expand

Regarding the all-cap text, I see it differently. Capitalized text is not shouting; it’s EMPHASIS. But, if the whole text is capitalized there is no “emphasis.” So, you’re left with a bunch of text that’s harder to read than it needs to be b/c it’s mono-text. Same as when all is written in lower case. There are reasons for the combination of caps and lowercase in sentences. If you wish someone to read and comprehend your text, then follow the rules of good writing, etc. BTW. Someone attending elementary school in the 1970’s was at the leading edge of some nonsense generational “norms“ such as mentioned above that have since overtaken us. However, not everybody succumbed.

Design, construction, & wear are three different topics. The full-keel/skeg designs reflect intended use. Construction quality is a subject of price/cost. Wear is a matter of age and use. True, this discussion began with the search for an old boat, perhaps one DESIGNED for bluewater cruising as experienced in past decades. There is a range of qualities of construction. Go for a Pacific SeaCraft, Valliant, Island Packet, or Moody to escape the construction quality variable.

JK_Boston_Catalina310 said: You have touched one of the third rails of sailing (anchor choice and guns on boats being the other major third rail discussions). You will get a wide variety of responses, many of which are parroting other armchair sailors or saying their choice of boat is best My response is there are no such things as bluewater boats, only bluewater crews. I have seen morons sink Westsails within a few miles of harbor and met competent crews that have sailed a Beneteau around the world. There is no specific list of features that make one boat safer than another. Everything on a boat is a compromise and you need to evaluate those compromises for what fits you best. So why are you limiting your search to these two boats? Is there something about them that appeals to you or did you read about them on a list somewhere. Good luck and fair winds Click to expand

Kings Gambit said: Design, construction, & wear are three different topics. The full-keel/skeg designs reflect intended use. Construction quality is a subject of price/cost. Wear is a matter of age and use. True, this discussion began with the search for an old boat, perhaps one DESIGNED for bluewater cruising as experienced in past decades. There is a range of qualities of construction. Go for a Pacific SeaCraft, Valliant, Island Packet, or Moody to escape the construction quality variable. Click to expand

SailingFree said: Yeah, but the problem with Island Packets and the like is that they're all WAYYYY OVER-PRUCED relative to cheaper options like a 1980s Cape Dory or an Albert or an Endeavour 37, etc. Click to expand

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Bluewater Sailboat – Cape Dory 36

Cape Dory Yachts was formed in New England in 1963 by sailor and engineer Andrew Vavolotis, who began with a small 15-footer. The business has built a solid reputation over the years for manufacturing durable yachts that are safe at sea, simple in design, and easy to handle. Outside of Cape Dory’s pocket cruiser choices of 30 feet and under, the Bluewater Sailboat Cape Dory 36 is the most popular. Perhaps this is owing to their versatility as superb offshore boats as well as weekend and coastal cruising vessels.

LOA: 36′ 2″
LWL: 27′ 0″
Beam: 10′ 8″
Draft: 5′ 0″
Bridge Clearance: 46′ 6″
Displacement: 16,100 lbs
Ballast: 6,050 lbs
Sail Area: 622 sq. ft.
Fuel: 42 US. Gal.
Water: 130 US. Gal.
Designer: Carl Alberg
Year Introduced: 1978
Year Ended: 1990
Builder: Cape Dory Yachts

Carl Alberg created the design, who was a legendary figure in cruising yacht design before designers like Perry reinterpreted what a cruising sailboat should look like during the golden years of the 1970s and 1980s. The Scandinavian folkboat influenced Alberg’s design, which prioritized seakindly and well-mannered sailing characteristics at the expense of internal volume and initial boat rigidity. This legacy is continued by the Cape Dory 36, which has a narrow beam, low freeboard, big overhangs, and a complete keel with a cutaway on the forefoot.

Construction has always been of the highest quality, including exceptional inside joiner work of this Bluewater Sailboat. In 1987, considerable alterations were made to the deck and interior layout. Owners have not noticed any areas of weakness or bad years, and the boats have gained a loyal following through the years. In 1991, Cape Dory Yachts halted manufacturing in New England, selling the moulds for the 36 to Robinhood Marine, who resumed manufacture with semi-custom modifications. There have been 165 Cape Dory 36s built in all.

Performance

The boat is well-built, and a short inspection of the heavy rig reveals a cutter layout that prioritizes offshore work. However, for coastal sailing, these boats are agile and simple to sail. They have a usefully shallow five-foot draught, making them ideal for bay hopping. The interior is tiny by modern standards, but it is habitable for couples on long excursions; save the six berths for social weekends away.

They track well to windward and have a tendency to be delicate at first, which lengthens their effective waterline before stiffening up. Because of the short freeboard, the ride is relatively damp. Except in quartering seas, they track relatively effectively on lengthy downward runs. There will be some hobby-horsing in chop.

Looking for a used sailboat for sale? Check out the Bluewater sailboat data and specs to make an informed decision. Ocean Wave Sail has data for over 10000+ boats that can help you select one to meet your sailing needs.

Now you can also precisely calculate the expenses related to boat ownership to make smart choices based on your budget and sailing needs. Use this bluewater Sailboat Calculator to explore different options and make the best decision.

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Rebuilding a Cape Dory 36

T his is Part 1 in a multi-part series detailing the rebuilding of our then 35 year old Cape Dory 36 sailboat. The purpose of this series is not to provide step-by-step instructions, but rather provide useful insights and general knowledge should the reader want to undertake a similar project.

My choices and methodology reflect my experience, philosophy, and vision. While there is more than one way to accomplish such an extensive project, our approach worked well for us and the result exceeded our expectations. I had no previous boat building or woodworking experience. While it is undeniably true most boat rebuilds are not successfully completed, there are steps you can take to put the odds in your favor. Part I describes what might be called “best practices” to ensure the rebuild has the highest chance for a successful outcome. It covers important topics that framed our project from beginning to end.

Let’s address up-front the biggest criticisms I hear from the naysayers about boat rebuilds. “It will take you longer than you think; it’s cheaper to buy a boat ready to go than rebuild one; and my favorite—you will fail because it’s harder than you think and your boat will be relegated to the boatyard of broken dreams.” All three statements are true…for “some people.” My observation is those who vociferously oppose the idea failed in their own attempt. But, for me, and many others, a rebuild was the only affordable way to get the boat I wanted. Starting with the right boat, establishing a budget you can afford, showing restraint in outfitting her, and remaining committed to the end will get you across the finish line.

REBUILD VS REFIT

I define a refit as actions taken to repair a boat and make her ready to go to sea again. New standing and running rigging, new sails, paint, system upgrades and repairs to machinery to include a new engine comprise the projects normally associated with a refit. I define a rebuild as more extensive and invasive as it will include major projects to reconstruct a boat from a degraded condition to a “like-new” condition. It will likely include everything described in the refit but probably include major structural projects that require gutting the boat in part or in total.

A life-long sailor, I have owed the Far Reach , a Cape Dory 36 (Hull #61), since 2001. In April 2009 I gutted her to a bare hull. Only the hull, deck, rudder, hatches, cleats, a few bulkheads, and ports from the original boat were retained. Every piece of hardware, wood, and fastener was removed from the boat. We made major design changes and numerous modifications to the interior and exterior. She also got a new, lighter, taller rig. This was a major rebuild. She emerged from the rebuild in May 2015 a new boat. She is a stronger, faster, more capable boat than when first launched in 1982. Since her relaunch I have sailed her 11,000 nm, mostly offshore, mostly singlehanded. She has safely carried me from NC to the Virgin Islands and back three times.

One of the things I have learned in sailing (and in a lifetime of military operations) is that complexity creates friction. Friction can make the easy difficult, and the difficult impossible. The more complicated systems and plans are, the more likely there are to be problems and the more extensive the knowledge and resources required to fix them. The older I get the less tolerant I am of needlessly complex and fussy systems which detract from the beauty of the simple voyaging experience I crave.

While I envisioned my voyaging boat to be sailing centric, I was determined she would also be simple enough that I could fix anything that needed repairing. I also desired there to be as few barriers as possible between me and the physical sailing environment I enjoy. I wanted “my wits” to be at the center of my decision-making, vice technology. I wanted to be sailing with my head “outside” the boat looking at the water, the sails, the wind and not “inside” the boat looking at instruments. I wanted adventure, not convenience. What is the satisfaction in sailing a boat that does everything for you?

Along with simplicity, I wanted the boat to be elegant with a comfortable and inviting interior I would enjoy being in for long periods of time. There is no right or wrong way to enjoy sailing but that is the vision that guided all our decisions.

An important part of the vision was a strong and reasonably fast boat. She had to be watertight. No wet clothing, charts, books. No mildew from water leaks. No ruined electronics. She needed to have lots of storage and be tough enough that I could sail wherever I wanted without worrying about her not being up to the task even if I was not. The boat had to be easy to handle for one or two people.

After looking at all kinds of boats I ultimately chose a down-on-her-luck 20-year-old CD 36 because I liked her looks, she was designed by a legendary architect (Carl Alberg), and did not have a liner which made planned interior modifications less complicated. She was of conservative design with attached rudder and a solid fiberglass hull. She had a reputation for being well behaved under sail. She was in the displacement range (16,100 lbs) that could accommodate a small family or a couple for voyaging. And I could afford her.

I created a rebuild budget based off my best estimate that supported the vision. My time and labor I viewed as zero otherwise you’re kidding yourself. I could afford my labor—I couldn’t afford someone else’s labor. I avoided the temptation to hire professionals to accelerate the rebuild with two exceptions—I paid $600 to have the topside sprayed and $1,500 for upholstery. By keeping the boat simple, with few systems, most of the money went into wood, fiberglass, epoxy, and fasteners. I sold most of the components and equipment I removed from the boat. All that money went back into the boat fund. I stayed close to the budget until the very end then added about $10K to purchase new sails which was the result of an unforeseen opportunity to get a new taller mast at a huge discount. More on that later.

I had practically no building skills when I started this project. To prepare myself I joined a woodworking fellowship. One night a week for eight months I joined a group of men at a woodshop and they guided me as I built a kitchen workstation from scratch. They taught me how to measure, mark, and cut wood. I learned how to plane and joint wood and how to glue and clamp. I learned how to use tools safely. Opportunities like this exist in nearly every community. You just have to look for them. Everything else I learned as I went.

When people ask me the secret to rebuilding a boat, I say it’s not the budget or the lack of skill or a shed that will keep you from success. It is a lack of commitment. You will face a thousand obstacles. You need the determination of a junkyard dog. You need a vision and a ruthless determination to feed it from start to finish. I documented the rebuild on a website for two reasons. First, to give back to the community so others could benefit from my efforts. And, second, to remind myself of the progress I had made when the going got tough and it felt like I would never get to the end. One of the advantages I had was I am a life-long sailor. I started sailing as a pre-teen, have owned and raced sailboats for many years, and I lived on a boat and sailed in the Bahamas as a kid. So, I knew deep down inside what I was working towards. I knew why I wanted a simple, seaworthy, elegant, and reasonably fast sailboat. So, for me, I never thought for a moment I would not complete the project. What I did not know, however, is how long it would take, how difficult it would be, or how it would turn out.

I have an extensive sailing library that shaped my philosophy of sailing which is heavy on simplicity and skill and less on technology and complexity. My books mostly cover the golden age of voyaging—1900s to 1990—before the widespread use of SatNav/GPS and “convenience” systems. I relied on books like Skene’s Elements of Yacht Design, Chappelle’s books on yacht construction, books by Eric Hiscock, Hal Roth, Don Street, the Pardeys, Harry Pidgeon, Vito Dumas, John Guzwell, H.W. Tilman, the Smeetons etc.

I also have books on metallurgy and wood and fiberglass construction principles to expand my knowledge in related disciplines. I seldom get important information from the internet. I rely on books and the experience of sailors I admire to inform me and I turned to them often for advice and insights as I made my way forward.

There are common themes in these books—boat strength, self-reliance, and simplicity. I think you get into trouble when you randomly mix philosophies. If you are all about a simple strong boat you can maintain yourself, then incorporate leading edge technology and complex electronics, mechanical systems, and exotic materials, your boat gets out of synch with your vision (and perhaps your skills) not to mention it drives up the cost.

During my voyages I have met many boat owners trying to cruise on a finite budget but were exasperated trying to find parts and qualified technicians to repair equipment too complicated for the owners to repair themselves. Every piece of equipment on a boat, be it mechanical or electronic, will be tested to the max when ocean sailing and voyaging to remote destinations. Most will fail or give you trouble at some point.

If it’s simple, it’s less likely to fail, and if it does you can fix it yourself. But, if you want convenience, comfort, and technology you will be unhappy with a simple sailing-centric philosophy. So, it’s important you know what you want when you start a rebuild, develop a realistic budget, then stay on track to achieve it—simple, complicated, or somewhere in between. Because my boat is very simple, it cost me far less to rebuild and maintain.

A mentor is more than an expert. He or she is an experienced advisor you trust and respect to guide you through a project. A mentor is inspired by your dedication to the task and your ability to be taught. I had two mentors. One is an expert restorer of classic fiberglass boats (Tim Lackey, lackeysailing.com). He has an incredible range of skills and a pragmatic philosophy that kept me on track and was amazingly supportive. I could not have had a better teacher and advisor. The other is a certified Swedish furniture builder (Kaj Jacobson, knjwoodworking.blogspot.com), a craftsman with jaw dropping woodworking skills who built his own boat (FC 34) from a bare hull into a piece of art.

Neither of these men have physically seen my boat but their fingerprints are all over it. They were instrumental in guiding me during the rebuild. They invested a lot of time helping me understand what I needed to do to achieve my vision even if it was not their vision. The fact they are sailors and appreciate the benefits of an uncomplicated boat was helpful.

Mentors, like books, need to be philosophically aligned with your vision. If not, then they are not the right mentors. However you do it, you need to develop a relationship with a competent mentor. I can count the number of times on one hand where I did not follow the recommendations of my mentors and each time it proved to be a mistake. If you ignore the advice of mentors they will tire of the investment in time they make supporting you, and leave you to carry on without them. So, choose them wisely and then listen to them.

Big projects like a boat rebuild will be exhausting in terms of time, energy, money. If I were ever to write a book on rebuilding a boat, I would devote a whole chapter to this one subject. The ability to maintain your sanity and sense of humor through the project is essential. I had more than one temper tantrum and several times I got so frustrated I had to lay my tools down and walk-it-off to clear my mind.

I once commented to a friend how excited he must be to have his own rebuilt Hess 30 finally sailing and he said to me, “To be truthful I am too exhausted to enjoy it right now.” Well, that turned out to be exactly how I felt when we finally splashed the Far Reach after six years. I was just numb from the degree of mental and physical effort it took to complete such an enormous project alone. I then understood why so many people give up—it feels at times like it will never end and for many people eventually the vision dims to a pin prick then disappears altogether. With the boat in the water I pressed ahead without a break completing additional projects to prepare our boat for our first 1,600 nm offshore voyage. By the time we took our departure from Cape Lookout, six months after we launched her, I was completely mentally exhausted driven only by the singular focus to sail to the West Indies.

There are things you can do to put the odds in your favor of a successful rebuild. The shed I describe on page 13 is one of them. Accept it will take longer than you think. Work on the boat every day—even if only a half hour so you don’t lose momentum. You have to make time for boat work. I was recently retired but I taught homeschool from 0800-1200 five days a week. I typically worked on the boat from 1300- 1800 every day. Longer on the weekends.

It can be done and I know a lot of people that have completed big projects using this strategy—“eating the elephant a bite at a time.” That is why having the boat at your home is so important. You have to be ruthless about protecting your time. Time is not recyclable. Every five minutes you spend on social media is five minutes you won’t have to work on the boat. It’s five more minutes you have to add to the length of time required to finish the rebuild and launch the boat.

It’s a battle of inches, not miles. No one should believe a boat rebuild is going to be easy. I estimate I spent 6,000 hours on the rebuild of which probably half was spent reading, thinking, planning, drawing, researching, and ordering supplies. That comes out to about 3 hours a day plus 8 hours over an entire weekend for 50 weeks a year, for six years. A simpler rebuild might have taken 3,000 hours or less. An experienced builder could do it faster. Most rebuilds will not be as extensive as mine.

Often overlooked is the significant time put into planning. I drew out and diagramed every project from interior layout to joinery. In the evenings I looked at websites of classic boats to get joinery ideas. Usually, I worked several projects simultaneously. Varnish was drying on one project while I was fabricating or milling wood for another. To keep the momentum going I learned to plan several projects ahead so I could order items and have them on-hand for a seamless transition from one project to another. Loss of a momentum between projects is a killer, but you can reduce this lost time by having the next project spooled up and ready to go as soon as the current one is complete.

You need to be clear in your own mind what your rebuild priorities are. Mine were sailing performance, strength, simplicity, self-sufficiency, comfort and convenience, in that order. Safety is not on the list. Safety is inherent in the first four categories and is more about what’s between your ears and less about what’s bolted to the boat. I had to make some hard choices when it became apparent some ideas would not work. But I stayed true to the vision and made changes that aligned with my priorities. It all worked out.

A large part of my rebuild was wood centric and most of my tools reflect that focus. None of my tools are “high end.” I have a table saw; a modest dado blade set; an inexpensive jointer and planer; a good jig saw; a modest chop saw; a hand-me-down bench top drill press; a couple battery powered drills; a desk top belt sander and a small bench top router table; an inexpensive dust collector; some hand planes, spoke shave, and draw knife; a couple cabinet maker’s files; a wide range of drill bits, an RO sander, a shop vac, etc. Nothing fancy.

I lusted for a band saw. I did not have room. I gained access to one when I needed it. Depending on your boat and your vision you might have less wood work in your project than mine. Unless you are rebuilding a wood boat you will probably not have more. I estimate I spent about $2,500 in tools acquired over time. But tools like your skills are an investment and you will use them for all kinds of other projects.

From beginning to end a rebuild is a major undertaking. A thoughtful, realistic, holistic plan will help you complete it. With the background out of the way, next month we will dive into the project.

T he single most important step I took to completing the rebuild was locating the boat in a shed at my suburban home. W e got approval from our HOA and I obtained a building permit from the town for the temporary shed. The ability to be able work on the boat after working a day job is a huge advantage. My commute to and from the boat was 70 feet vs. 70 miles.

Having the boat at home kept me engaged with my family during a multi-year project. I was able to take care of home projects which did not go away while I was working on the boat and reduced the likelihood my family would come to resent the boat. Since I was home, I was available. I could stop a project any time and leave the tools on the boat and they were ready the next day. I did not lose valuable time or incur the expense of traveling to and from a boatyard. There were no monthly storage fees draining our budget.

I built a Stimpson Bow Roof Shed from a set of plans that cost $20. It was uncomplicated and within my modest skills, at the time. The total cost of the project was about $1,200. The eye of Hurricane Irene made landfall in NC in Aug 2011 about 30 miles away. Windspeed in our town was clocked at 100 mph. You can see a video of the shed during the storm online (see https://youtu.be/MAX5iEg2oQ0 ). When I completed the project, I sold the bow frames for $500.

1. It took a month and $1,200 to build the Stimpson Bow Roof Shed ( www.bow-roof-shed.com ). The shed allowed me to keep working regardless the weather. The strength was impressive, surviving hurricanes, snowstorms, and heavy downpours.

2. I put together a small workshop with modest tools. In this photo you can see the chop-saw to the left, table saw behind it, and a small bench top belt sander. To the right you can see an inexpensive dust collector. The hose is long enough to reach all the tools. Under the workbench to the right you can see a bench-top router table and a two-speed thickness planer. The drawers hold hand tools. My neighbors were very supportive. My wife joined the home owner’s association committee to head any issues off that arose. None did, although after a couple of days of non stop sanding one neighbor did confront me asking “Will this noise ever cease?” I got her to laugh by replying, “No. Never.”

We gutted the original interior to improve storage and ensure the Far Reach was safe and practical offshore and comfortable to live aboard at anchor.

1. September 2010. The original interior was gutted to a bare hull keeping only a few structural bulkheads in place. I cut out and removed the one-piece fiberglass overhead liner because I wanted complete access to the underside of the deck.

Also, I did not want to see any fiberglass inside the boat taking away from the traditional aesthetic we desired. The floor timbers and sole were also removed to make way for water tanks and storage.

2. March 2015. We designed and installed the new interior (covered in Part II) pulling it toward the centerline creating more storage space outboard and under the furniture. We added pilot berths with lee cloths for safe comfortable sleeping offshore while keeping the settees and saloon table open for use. We eliminated the ubiquitous V berth in the forward cabin preferring a more companionable double berth we use when not underway. The saloon stanchions support a fold-over varnished ash table I built after we launched the boat. The boat is easy and safe to move through even in rough offshore conditions as there is always solid furniture and the saloon stanchions to grab. The storage space is huge for a 28’ waterline.

To keep the visual aesthetic grounded we worked from light overhead to a dark sole. In between, the vertical surfaces are V groove African Mahogany with seven coats of high gloss varnish which reflect light and create a sense of more space. The horizontal surfaces are varnished ash. The raised panel inset cabinet doors are varnished bird’s eye maple.

I I put a lot of thought—and a whole lot of work into the deck. I was determined to have a dry boat.

1. January 2010. I removed every fastener and filled more than 300 holes. No wonder sailboats leak.

In this photo I had ground the gunwale down in preparation for glassing over the hull deck joint with three layers of 1708 biaxial and West Systems epoxy. The original nonskid has been sanded off.

Later I glassed in the instrument holes on the aft end of the cockpit and the engine control panel in the cockpit footwell plus many other major holes. Since we eliminated the inboard engine we filled in exhaust and bilge pump holes in the transom and the propeller aperture in the keel.

When all the glass work was completed we rolled on four coats of Awl-Quick epoxy primer. The topsides, cabin top, and cockpit were painted with Awlgrip. I applied Kiwi-grip for non-skid.

2. March 2015. The morning after we disassembled the shed, and my first view of the Far Reach in her entirety. It was a thrilling moment after so much hard work. She was not only a new boat, but a stronger, safer, faster boat.

The storage space was vastly improved. She was dramatically simplified. The 6 ¾-inch tall raised bulwarks allow water to instantly drain over the side and significantly improves safety for the crew offshore.

You can’t appreciate how much safer and more reassuring bulwarks are until you go forward at night offshore in ugly weather. On each of our offshore voyages we arrived at our destination with a totally dry bilge.

In this photo the Cape Horn windvane is prominent. It has proven itself to be the most valuable member of the crew on every voyage we have made.

Painting a New Bootstripe Like a Pro

Mildew-resistant Caulks for Boats

15 comments.

Loved your article… after reading it, it brings back fond memories of my two loves, my 1982 Cape Dory Typhoon “Windsong”, and my 1984 Cape Dory 25D “Feather” recently sold and miss, as my 82 years have caught up to me health wise, and I’m left with great appreciation for the truly fine design and strong build of the Cape Dory line. My question was, what did you repower your vessel with?

Bob, I am glad you enjoyed the article. The Typhoon and 25D remain the most sought after boats in the Cape Dory line. Both are lovely capable boats.

I sailed the Far Reach without an inboard engine for five years including two round trips from NC to the Virgin Islands. I relied on a 14’10” ash sculling oar as my primary means of non sailing propulsion when practicable. It works surprisingly well if set up properly.

I also had a custom built swing arm bracket I could bolt to the boat. I used it to hold a Honda 9.8 HP outboard when we needed to move the boat down narrow canals or in restricted water when the conditions exceeded the capabilities of the oar. The little outboard would move the boat at 5 kts at 3/4 throttle on flat water. I demonstrate how the outboard bracket works on our YouTube channel, Far Reach Voyages. In 2021 I installed a small diesel with a two blade folding prop which is the subject of a future article in Practical Sailor.

Wery nicely spelled out what it takes to fulfil ones dream. Yes I sord of missed that part , like Bob Nelson . You didn’t use oars “”””

Helmet, Thanks. I answered your question in my reply to Bob Nelson.

I have broken way more tillers than wheels on boats. Plus easy to lock down the rudder with wheel steering, not so much with a tiller. When Andy made the CD line, he said he regretted not stiffening up the deck supports. Did you address that issue?

Robert, Your experience is different than mine. I have never heard the argument a wheel is more reliable than a properly built tiller. The strengthening of the hull and deck are addressed in Part 2.

Totally agree with your philosophy of keeping things simple. If your head is out of the boat then you don’t need expensive power consuming, high maintenance instruments to know where the wind is coming from. Have you repowered and how? Tillermate, a locking tiller mechanism from Canada is the best I have used – never broken a tiller yet!

Kate, regarding repower see my reply to Bob Nelson. Thanks for the comment on the tiller lock. I have looked into them (Practical Sailor ran a test on them a while back) but I have been reluctant so far to bolt anything to the tiller to snag lines. I usually tie a short length of line around the tiller with a clove hitch and lead the ends to cleats on the coamings. However, I seldom sail without the self-steering windvane which negates the need for a tiller lock when engaged. Still, a tiller lock seems very useful.

Sound advice. Looking forward to the part 2 Rebuilding my Pearson Triton 28 Misty. 1965 Interesting that I pretty much came up with the same conclusion as to my rebuild as you. Took a woodworking class , read the old ” books” and new books. Planned about 3 project ahead so when the epoxy was drying (every piece of wood coated with 3 coats) then varnished, started making patterns and cutting wood. Rewired and plumbed everything. Made a project book one page for the planning and opposing page for supplies and tools needed so when I had to drive to the boat I would not forget at home what I needed 45 minute drive. Project book kept me on tract. It takes lots of time I’m in to it for about 5 years. I see the light at the end of the tunnel nw had to take breaks along the way. I work on the boat everyday! Thanks for you sharing of your experience.

Thanks. Good luck with your rebuild. Hang in there!

A great read. Thanks for the effort.

Thanks. I enjoyed writing the series.

Personally, I use oil based sign paint on my boat and though it doesn’t hold a shine long, it’s relatively easy to use and easy to redo. I haven’t found the two part to be more resistant to anything but the sun and to mildew. I like pumice for nonskid—inexpensive. I also haven’t found the two part more resistant to scratches and chipping. Anyone reading this agree?

Susan You did not mention what kind of surface you are painting, or under what conditions.

I use a one part LPU paint, like Interlux Brightside on exterior wood and have had excellent result. That’s where I would use and oil based or alkyd based paint.

A two part urethane paint (like Awlgrip) is not normally a good choice for wood because the paint does not give when the wood expands and contracts with changing temps and humidity. The paint will crack.

Both kinds of paints require similar preparation but the two part typically last twice as long on fiberglass. There is a C&C 39 in the boatyard near the Far Reach. It was Awlgripped 17 years ago with flag blue. It still looks pretty good.

But if a one part alkyd paint meets your needs then perhaps that is the best choice for your specific situation.

Totally agree with your philosophy of keeping things simple and your head outside the boat. My Cal 2-29 doesn’t even have a depth sounder; her only “instruments” are a compass, some telltales on the sails and a wind vane on the masthead. Well, ok, sometimes I’ll pull out the GPS on my phone to see how fast I’m going but that’s about it.

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COMMENTS

Cape Dory 36
The CD 36 has been unfairly maligned when it comes to performance. You can't compare them to more modern hull shapes. The Cape Dory 36 tracks well and resists pounding in a seaway. With an SA/D of 15.7 and a D/L of 356, the CD 36 isn't fast, but it can carry sail and continue to make way when lighter, faster boats are running for cover in heavy ...
Cape Dory 36? Pros and Cons
One in good condition would be on my very short list of affordable and comfortable boats suitable for singlehanded world cruising. The Cape Dory 36 is a great boat. They do like to sail heeled more than a modern flat bottomed boat. Their stiffness does not come into play until they are heeled 15 degrees or so.
Alberg 37 or Cape Dory 36
Having sailed on the Ablerg 37, and observed the Cape Dory 36 underway, these are slow, wet, cramped,tender boats that are sailed at large heel angles, do not track well and that are not very good in a chop or quartering seaway. On the positive side, both offer comparatively shallow draft which is nice and a simple, very workable interior ...
The Best Sailboats for the High Seas?
Here are the boats Kretschmer suggests: Contessa 32, Pacific Seacraft 34, Pretorien 35, Cape Dory/Robinhood 36, Valiant/Esprit 37, Prout Snowgoose 37, Alajuela 38, Privelege 39, Freya 39, Passport 40, Caliber 40, Baba 40, Hallberg Rassy 42, Taswell 43, Hylas 44, Norseman 447, Beneteau 456, Outbound 44, Hylas 46, Kaufman 47, Tayana 48, Hylas 49, Amel Maramu 53, and the Sundeer 60/64.
CAPE DORY 36
CAPE DORY 36. Save to Favorites . Beta Marine. BOTH. US IMPERIAL. METRIC. Sailboat Specifications Definitions Hull Type: Long Keel: Rigging Type: Cutter: LOA: 36.12 ft / 11.01 m ... A sail area/displacement ratio below 16 would be considered under powered; 16 to 20 would indicate reasonably good performance;
1982 Cape Dory 36
The boat is beautiful and in good shape, but now I know the dirty hard to reach places need to be reached. I'll slowly replace all the pressurized water lines. Note to self.....keep diesel tanks full at every opportunity. The wind ain't always blowing. Semper Fi, SSgtPitt. 1982 36' Cape Dory. "All or Nothin' ".
Begining cruising on our Cape Dory 36
After finding our 1981 Cape Dory 36- left on the hard since 1984 (yes, after only being in the water- Lake Michigan- for 3 season before being abandoned!) we have spent the past 2 years bringing her back to life. ... General Sailing Discussions Gear & Maintenance Boat Review Forum Cruising Under Sail Seamanship & Navigation. Top Contributors ...
Cape Dory 36
Cape Dory 36 is a 36′ 1″ / 11 m monohull sailboat designed by Carl Alberg and built by Cape Dory Yachts between 1978 and 1990. ... Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay). D: ...
CDSOA, Inc. -- CD36 Survey
Under power, the Cape Dory 36 exceeds seven knots at cruising rpm and moves without fuss. Noise level is low in the cockpit and below. Under sail, with wind speeds between fifteen and eighteen knots, we carried 100% genoa, staysail and full main. The boat is stiff, but control was finger light on all headings.
Cape Dory 36
Posts: 4. Cape Dory 36. Hello fellow cruisers. I've been sailing for about 40 years and boating all my life. My early years were spent on inland lakes in Michigan and Indiana. I started sailing keel boats on Lake Michigan with my new Bayfield 25 in 1975. After moving to the San Francisco Bay area in 1977, I upgraded to a Wright Allied 36 Ketch.
The Third Quarter: Cape Dory 36 & Robinhood 36 Sailboats
The Robinhood 36 is pretty much the same boat as the Cape Dory 36 - glassed in the CD hull mold - but all of them were built after 1991, when Cape Dory morphed into Robinhood, so they are a teeny bit modified. Here is a great page on the Cape Dory Owners Association site, reviewing the history of Cape Dory and the transition to Robinhood ...
Cape Dory 36 Kth
Cape Dory 36 Kth is a 36′ 1″ / 11 m monohull sailboat designed by Carl Alberg and built by Cape Dory Yachts between 1978 and 1990. ... Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay). D: ...
Boat Comparison
Larger engine with fuel and maintenance costs. Slightly harder to single hand in docking. More than enough room for two of us (most of the time) Cape Dory 33/330. PROS: Probably a better size for two. More maneuverable - manageable size. Easier sailing and docking single handed.
Opinion : Cape Dory 36 Vs. Niagra 35 or Other....is a Full Keel and
I can't find a similar review from them of the Cape Dory 36. Anecdotally the Cape Dory's I've seen have had more gelcoat cracks than other boats their age. +1 for 31Seahorse's point about draft, but the Niagara only draws 2" more than the Cape Dory, so no big distinction there, and either is probably ok at around 5'.
Santorin Bluewater Sailboat
Outside of Cape Dory's pocket cruiser choices of 30 feet and under, the Bluewater Sailboat Cape Dory 36 is the most popular. Perhaps this is owing to their versatility as superb offshore boats as well as weekend and coastal cruising vessels. LOA: 36′ 2″. LWL: 27′ 0″. Beam: 10′ 8″. Draft: 5′ 0″. Bridge Clearance: 46′ 6 ...
Rebuilding a Cape Dory 36 Part V
2. ar Reach rests at anchor in Beaufort, NC, in late 2019, four years after launching and shortly before departure for the Virgin Islands. The taller mast and longer bowsprit increased sail area to dramatically improve light-air performance. This is Part V, the final installment of a five-part series on rebuilding and modifying our Cape Dory 36 ...
Cape Dory 36' vs Pearson 367
Posts: 7,505. Re: Cape Dory 36' vs Pearson 367. The Pearson is definitely q lot roomier. Really like the separate shower in the head if the 367 has the same interior as the 365. The Pearsons have very utilitarian interiors though have a reputation for strong hulls and decks.
Rebuilding a Cape Dory 36 Part IV
1. Far Reach runs wing-and-wing down The Narrows in the Virgin Islands. A taller mast and more sail area kept the boat moving even in light winds (see "Part 3: Rebuilding a Cape Dory 36," PS January 2023). This is the fourth article in a five-part series describing the rebuild of our 1982 Cape Dory 36 and how we turned it into a capable ...
CD 36 Questions/Interest
CD 36 Questions/Interest. by SailingNW » Dec 6th, '17, 17:41. Hello, I have started my search for my next sailboat, and one of the boats I am looking for more information on is a Cape Dory 36. In the next few years I am looking to do some long term cruising, while my current boat is offshore capable its just more than I need so I am looking to ...
CAPE DORY 36 KTH
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
Rebuilding a Cape Dory 36
A life-long sailor, I have owed the Far Reach, a Cape Dory 36 (Hull #61), since 2001. In April 2009 I gutted her to a bare hull. Only the hull, deck, rudder, hatches, cleats, a few bulkheads, and ports from the original boat were retained. Every piece of hardware, wood, and fastener was removed from the boat.
cape dory 36
Cape Dory 22 with trailer in New Hampshire: Bill NH: Classifieds Archive: 0: 08-08-2008 12:01: Cape Dory 25 info? Razman23: Monohull Sailboats: 12: 02-02-2007 23:04: Looking foe leads on a Cape Dory 30 Project Boat: kydivemaster: Monohull Sailboats: 4: 17-12-2006 17:58
33 vs. 330
The 33 and the 330 are essentially very different boats built out of the same hull. You pointed out the main differences: -330 normal v-berth vs. the 33 "creative" angled v-berth. -330 with double headsail "cutter-wannabe" rig vs. 33 sloop. Keep in mind that the 330 lack of a quarter berth is not a drawback but a design feature.