small sailboat upgrades

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32 DIY Boat Upgrades & Ideas to Improve Your Vessel

Are you a new boat owner? Regardless of whether you bought your beauty off the showroom floor or pre-owned off Craigslist, it’s a significant purchase. Boats cost thousands of dollars, and it’s a big investment into your recreational activities for the years ahead.

Most boats come as standard models for the dealer. When the original buyer closes the sale agreement, the dealer typically presents them with a list of optional extras and accessories. You can add these OEM features to your boat for an extra cost over the retail price.

However, dealers often overcharge for these accessories and upgrades. As a result, boat owners can end up adding as much as 20% to 30% to the base model price tag with their accessories. So, many boat owners choose to pass on the extras offered by the dealership.

If you’re buying the boat new, aftermarket parts and accessories for your boat are far cheaper than getting them from the dealer. However, if you have limited experience in fitting accessories, you’ll want to choose options offering you easy installation.

We put together this list of 32 DIY boat upgrades to personalize your boat. Most of them are easy to fit, regardless of the manufacturing brand, size, or purpose.

Interior Upgrades for Your Boat

1 compact trash can.

Are you one of those boat owners that use a plastic carrier bag for a trash bag onboard your boat? This strategy not only looks unsightly but there’s a good chance the bag ends up going overboard, polluting the environment.

A compact trash can gives you a dedicated space for your waste. It sits out of the way, offering you easy access and disposal of your waste on board the vessel. They clean out in seconds, and it’s a low-cost upgrade every boat needs.

2 Marine Cup Holders

Simple upgrades are often the most satisfying, offering you utility out on the water that leaves you smiling from ear to ear. Most boats don’t come with cup holders, and if the manufacturer has to cast them into the boat’s body or the chairs, they’ll cost you a fortune as an extra.

There are several models of aftermarket cup holders available. They come in a range of mounting configurations to suit fitment anywhere on the boat. Let your passengers keep their beverages off the deck to avoid spilling, and keep them within arm’s reach.

3 Fishing Extras

If you’re keen on fishing, then you’re going to need a fish finder to locate the best spots in dams, lakes, rivers, and out on the ocean. This handy piece of tech can draw data on shoals around your boat, leading you to the most productive fishing grounds.

Rod holders are another essential accessory for sports fishing. Rod holders keep your rod and tackle secure and out of the way while sailing to and from the fishing spot. Most OEM rod holders cost a fortune, but aftermarket parts are a fraction of the price and an affordable DIY upgrade for your boat.

4 Pedestal Seats

Replace the factory seats with pedestals. Pedestal seats are a great choice for fishing, allowing you to get high above the water to see the fish as you’re fighting them in the water. They also make for excellent captain’s chairs, providing a 360-degree view of the water.

You get a pneumatic arm on the seat, allowing you to raise or lower it to your required height. You have options for various designs and finishes in a range of materials.

5 Swivel Seat

If you have a Jon boat, you understand the hassle of seating on the vessel. It’s uncomfortable, and it’s challenging to shift the seating position between the motor and the side of the boat.

Adding a swivel chair to your Jon boat lets you pivot from one seating position to another. The swivel chairs also come in a range of materials and design options, allowing you to add more comfort to the boat and your passenger’s experience with you out on the water.

6 Improve Your Dining Experience

If you have a cabin cruiser or yacht with a living area and galley, upgrade your living experience by adding gas burners, microwaves, kettles, and coffee machines.

You also have the option of investing in some classy dinnerware for your guests. Look for non-skid nautical dinnerware sets and shatter-resistant melamine cookware sets that won’t chip if a rogue wave collides with the vessel.

7 Replace Carpets

Carpets are one of the high-wear components on a boat. After a few years, the fouling of the material makes it in need of dire replacement. Most boats come with marine carpeting that allows for waterproofing of the material and easy cleaning.

However, most boat owners don’t bother with cleaning the carpets; they just replace them when they start looking grubby. You have options for snap-in carpets that are easy to fit and remove, allowing for easier cleaning than most OEM carpeting.

Adding a new set of carpets to the deck of your boat gives it a fresh look, increasing its aesthetic appeal and resale value.

8 Upholstery Detailing

If you have a bay boat, cruisers, or center console with plenty of seating, it’s a good idea to maintain the upholstery from time to time. Mold can grow in between the cushions on the seats and underneath them.

Severely fouled upholstery requires replacement, and it’s an inexpensive and effective upgrade that improves the boat’s looks in the eyes of other boaters and buyers.

Keep the mold away by detailing the upholstery on the seats and seat cushions every other month. Please make sure you spray it down with anti-bacterial and anti-fungal treatments before replacing it in the boat.

9 Storage and Organizers

There never seems to be enough storage on any boat, regardless of the model. Purchasing some low-cost plastic organizers from Amazon or your local Walmart is a great way to bring organization to your gear onboard your boat.

Install hanging hooks and bungee cords/nets and fit a few bookshelves to the living quarters of your berth for additional storage space.

10 Portable Head

Being out on the water and needing the toilet is a terrible experience when you’re miles from shore. Unless you feel like feeding the fish, you’re going to need to install a portable head on the boat.

Fortunately, you don’t need a huge amount of room to add a portable head to your boat. Most models over 18-feet with a front cuddy will have sufficient space for a portable toilet.

11 Cleaning Stations

This fishing accessory is common on fishing boats. However, if you’re fishing from a bowrider or center console, add a portable cleaning station to the boat.

It’s a great way to improve your fishing experience. Gut your catch and prepare your bait on the station, and keep the guts and mess away from the deck.

12 Insulated Coolers

There’s nothing like a refreshing ice-cold beverage on a sunny day out on the water. Some boats come with built-in coolers, but many dealers and manufacturers only offer it as an optional extra. Even worse, the OEM coolers often don’t feature any insulation.

As a result, your ice ends up melting too quickly in warm locations around Florida and the Gulf coast. With an aftermarket insulated cooler, you get the best temperature control for your beverages, your catch, and your ice.

Electronics Upgrades for Your Boat

13 usb power ports.

There’s nothing worse than being out on the water, only to have your radio die on your, right as a storm is approaching. Never get caught without power again by installing USB charging ports on the captain’s console.

The ports are available in a wide range of configurations and mounting options, and they connect directly to your boat’s electrical system.

You don’t need to be an electrician to handle the installation, and it’s a simple, affordable upgrade to your boat, offering you plenty of practical utility out on the water.

• 【9 IN 1 Function USB Wall Outlet】- Fit duplex outlet perfectly, just plug in to use. Please NOTE: For some outlets, the white plastic prong can be cut off before using. You get 5 AC outlet splitter (3 sides) with wide space in between; 4 USB charger ports; 1800 joules surge protector protect electronics by improving your power quality
• 【USB- C Fast & Smart Charge】- 4 USB ports total 4.5 A, each USB A port features 2.4A Max output. USB C charging port features 3A MAX. Built- with smart technology, detecting charging devices and deliver optimal charging speed automatically, compatible with most USB devices. NOTE: The UCB-C port doesn't support any other devices which need 14~22V charging voltage
• 【1800J Surge Protector Outlet】- 3 complementary Surge Protection Circuits, TVS(transient voltage suppressor) MOV(metal oxide varistor) GDT(gas discharge tube), with response speed less than 1Ns, and minimum energy-absorbing capacity of 1800 Joules, much more quickly and reliably than the traditional MOV surge protector circuit. ("SURGE PROTECTED" indicator light on to show your devices are protected)
• 【Super Safety】- ETL Certificates. This power strip has overload protection, short-circuit protection, over current protection, over-voltage protection and overheating protection. It will automatically cut power to protect connected devices when voltage surge is overwhelming. Combined with fire-resistant casing- keeping you and your devices completely safe
• 【Wide Space】- With 3-sided Power Strip design, 5 AC outlets with long space in between, larger than a standard socket- Making it easier to use for all kinds of equipment and without blocking each other

14 WiFi Extenders

If you need to be online out on the water, consider buying a marine WiFi extender. These systems help you stay connected when you’re out at sea or out on the lake, allowing you full access to the internet from your vessel.

Share photos of your catch, live stream your wakeboarding, and chat with friends on your favorite social media and messaging apps without missing a beat.

Marine WiFi extenders offer simple installation on any boat, and they work by amplifying cell signals to your phone, connecting you to the internet from almost any location.

15 Solar Panels

Why take the risk of running out of power when you’re out on the water. If you have a cabin cruiser or yacht you intend on using for island hopping, we recommend installing solar panels for your battery bank. Solar charging ensures that your system is always topped up and ready for action.

Solar panel technology continues to innovate, creating compact, affordable panels that effectively charge deep cell batteries, providing a sufficient trickle charge, even in low-light conditions.

The panels are easy to install yourself and wire into the boat’s electrical system without the need for professional assistance.

• 【High Conversion Rate】This 20W solar panel with monocrystalline A+ solar cell has an excellent cell efficiency of 21%-30%. Designed to charge and maintain 12V rechargeable batteries like LiFePO₄, Lithium Ion, AGM, SLA, GEL, EFB, MF, etc. Keep batteries in charged for trailer, tractor, truck, boat, motorcycle, RV, car, lawn mower, water pump, gate opener, electric fence, etc.
• 【Built to Last】 Low-iron tempered glass surface and corrosion-resistant aluminum frame, make this solar panel 100% waterproof and rustproof, and provide the prolonged lifespan up to 25 years. This 12V solar panel can withstand all weather conditions such as sandstorm, strong wind, thunderstorm, blizzard, hail, etc. It can withstand up to 2400Pa wind pressure and 5400Pa snow load.
• 【Smart Charge Controller】The charging efficiency of this upgraded 8A controller is 20%-30% higher than other controllers on the market. Its intelligent three-stage charging design effectively prevents the battery from overcharging, over-voltage and short circuit. It takes no power from the battery. You will clearly know the charging status of the battery through the two indicator lights on the controller.
• 【Easy to Install & Angle Adjustable】- Equipped with a 360 degree angle adjustable mounting bracket. Helps solar panels always have the best angle to face the sun. It’s very easy to install this bracket on the solar panel with pre-drilled mounting holes and needed screws. All cable connections are plug and play.
• 【What You Get】 1 solar panel + 1 charger controller + 1 mounting bracket +1 alligator clips +1 O-rings + 1 set of mounting pieces. We provide one year warranty and lifetime technical support. 7×24 hours After-sales service ensures that your question is answered within one day.

16 Sound System

Everyone deserves a sound system on their boat. If you enjoy hanging out with friends on your vessel or wakeboarding, then adding a speaker system and mp3 player to your boat is a great way to bring the party to the water.

There are dozens of speaker and amplifier setups and configurations from leading brands like Sony, Rockford-Fosgate, and more. Upgrade the marine radio while you’re at it and get a handheld system that’s compact and user-friendly.

17 Deck LED Lighting Kits

Create an ambiance onboard your boat with a set of LED lighting strips. These strips light up the deck, ensuring that no one trips over the gear and other objects in low light conditions. They also add a mellow tone to the boat and an air of mystery when you’re out on the water at night.

These strips are easy to install. Fit the wires to the side of the edges around the side of the boat, and they give you a great lighting effect from a concealing position with no visible cables hanging in the way.

Link the lights to your battery panel, and you’re ready to go. The LEDs consume next to no electricity, and they offer you the most energy-efficient method of bringing light to your boat.

• Music Sync: LED light strip changes color with the rhythm of sound and music for a romantic, relaxed atmosphere.
• Easy Use: Control the LED strip lights via remote control or app for selecting colors, changing modes, and adjusting brightness.
• Easy Installation: Stick the LED strips on a clean, dry surface and start enjoying the lighting.
• Wide Use: Ultra long LED lights for bedroom 100ft (2 rolls of 50ft strip lights) suitable for decorating rooms, ceilings, desks, and parties.
• Satisfaction Warranty: Quality LED strip lighting with 24-hour quick reply in case of problems.

18 Underwater LED Boat Lights

You also have the option of installing underwater LED lighting on the boat’s underside. These lights come in various colors and RBG options for a spectacular underwater lighting effect.

The light coming through the water from under the boat creates an eerie effect that looks mesmerizing. The LEDs are easy to secure to any vessel and easy to maintain. Like the strip LED lights for your deck, these LEDs consume very little electricity.

Exterior Upgrades for Your Boat

19 duck blind.

If you’re a keen fisherman, then you’ll love a duck blind for your Jon or bass boat. These blinds act like camouflage drop nets that conceal your position and the look of your boat from the game in the area.

The nets feature a design with specialized materials to look like organic material and fool the local bird population into thinking you are just an inanimate object.

You have several options for colors and pattern designs and duck blinds to suit any size or fishing boat model.

20 Smart Tabs

A bowrider boat is plenty of fun for use on calm waters. However, if you want to go offshore on a windy day, the boat lacks stabilization in the rough water you get from other boats. The lightweight design of the boat makes it bounce over waves rather than cut through them.

As a result, you get an uncomfortable ride that’s brutal on your buttocks. Installing smart tabs on your bowrider can make all the difference in ride quality in rough waters. They are easy to install, and you need about an hour to complete the job.

21 Grab Bars

If you’re keen on deep-sea fishing, there will be those times where you’re fighting game fish and wondering if they are going to pull you clear of the deck.

Installing grab bars around the sides of the boat helps you prevent yourself from landing in the drink. They also make it easier to get back into the boat if you fall overboard.

22 Wake Tower and Bimini Top

If you’re keen on watersports, then wakeboarding is one of the best pastimes you can enjoy out on the water. Wakeboarding is thrilling, but it requires specialist gear. Your boat will need a wakeboard tower to allow the rider to maneuver from one side of the wake to the other.

Wakeboard towers are available in several configurations, and some even come with built-in stereo speakers. A Bimini top is essential for providing you and your passengers with shade on hot days. When you’re out on the water, the sunlight intensifies, and you’ll catch a sunburn fast.

A Bimini Top ensures that everyone stays out of the sun, providing them with a relaxing experience out on the water. Biminis are available in a range of sizes and designs to suit any boat model and length.

23 Propeller Upgrades

If you’re a wakeboarder or interested in performance boat racing, you need the right propeller to handle the task. Specialized props are available for wakeboarding, producing a bigger wake that makes for better ramps and wake surfing.

Similarly, there are props designed to provide optimal propulsion to the vessel, pushing it through the water at the fastest speed possible.

Prop technology can also affect your boat’s fuel consumption, allowing you to save on the fuel costs associated with running your boat throughout the year.

24 Anchor Winch

After a hard day of fishing offshore, you probably have minimal arm strength left to pull up the anchor and head home. Fortunately, an anchor winch offers you a convenient way to claim the anchor without using any effort.

You have options for electric or mechanical models using gears to reduce the effort required to withdraw the anchor.

25 Electric Trailer Winch

When pulling the boat from the water, a trailer winch reduces the effort required to trailer the vessel. A trailer winch is a must-have item if you have a boat over 12-feet, weighing more than 400-lbs.

We recommend you go with an electric winch to avoid the manual winch arm causing knuckle-busting effects if something goes wrong when withdrawing the boat from the water.

26 Replace Wing Nuts

Sailing on the ocean is fun, but it results in plenty of bumps and vibrations moving through the boat’s structural frame.

These vibrations pass through all boat components, and they even pass through you without you realizing it in most cases.

These small vibrations can undo wingnuts on batteries and other components throughout the boat. We recommend replacing all wingnuts with locknuts to ensure they stay tight.

27 Keel Coating and Protection

The keel is susceptible to faster rates of fouling than the hull. It also requires protection from knocks and scrapes underwater.

Keel guards feature construction with strong polymers, covering the boat’s keel and protecting it from any contact with objects.

A keel guard is easy to install, and it’s relatively inexpensive considering the protection it provides and the amount of maintenance it saves the average yacht owner.

28 Graphics

Set your boat apart from all the others in the marina with a set of custom graphics. You have options for a genuine livery or vinyl graphics set that are simple to install. There are thousands of graphics kits available from designers online.

You get model-specific graphics kits and universal kits that fit any boat. You can choose from OEM kits that feature classic designs to the wildest anime and intricate graphics kits. Give your vessel a unique design flair and a set of graphics that make it stand out from the crowd.

29 Windscreen Tinting

When you’re sailing into the sun on a bright day, the sunlight can reflect off the water. The effect makes it challenging to see through the glare, even if you’re wearing sunglasses.

Tinting the windshield provides your console dashboard with protection from the sun’s harmful UV rays, and it allows you to avoid the glare off the water when driving the boat.

30 Boarding Ramps

If you’re finishing your dive, hauling yourself from the water after a dive is more challenging than it looks. If you struggle with pulling yourself over the edge of the boat, opt for a boarding ladder you can drop into the water.

Boarding ladders feature design and construction with corrosion-resistant materials, and they come in models to suit any boat design.

Top models from manufacturing brands like JIF Marine Products and Extreme Max are your best options. These lightweight ladders are compact and easy to store away until your need them.

31 Trolling Motor

There are times when that large outboard motor gets in the way. If you’re fishing the flats, then the propellor churns with cloud the water with silt and scares off the fish with the noise.

However, a trolling motor offers you a low-power engine that is ideal for use in the flats and shallows in estuaries and lakes.

The trolling motor is easy to set up as a temporary engine for the vessel. It’s lightweight and produces very little noise.

32 Weather Cover

Keep your paint and graphics looking great for years. Reduce cracking on your dashboard during the storage of your boat with a weather cover.

Adding a cover to your boat is essential for preventing the sun’s UV rays from fading the paint and graphics.

The cover also prevents pests like spiders, wasps, and other critters from setting up shop in your boat while it’s not in use. Covers are available in a range of colors and designs to suit any model or size of boat.

• 25'-28'L to 96” BEAM WIDTH: This waterproof protective boat cover is used universally for pontoon boats. Works with 25'-28'L beam width to 96” pontoon boats. Its full cut allows extra room for accessories such as bow rails, running lights, etc
• INCLUDES STORAGE BAG: Made of high strength polyester Hurricane fabric designed for extra durability and all-weather protection as well as rugged heavy duty safe storage. The cover also comes w/ a storage bag for portability and safe keeping
• WEATHER-RESISTANT: Features marine grade fabric coating technology and heavy duty fabric for maximum weather resistance. With an adjustable transom flap and an elastic cord sewn into the bottom hem that provides a tight and custom fit
• INTEGRATED STRAP SYSTEM: Equipped w/ integrated buckle and strap system for easy fitting and trailering, adjustable straps snap into quick-release buckles on the cover. Rope attaches to rugged non-scratch D-rings, no grommets to pull out or scratch

John is an experienced journalist and veteran boater. He heads up the content team at BoatingBeast and aims to share his many years experience of the marine world with our readers.

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5 Easy Sailboat Exterior Upgrades

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Simple, inexpensive improvements that take an hour or less.

Few sailboat projects can be described as quick, simple, and inexpensive. New canvas and sails are costly. Polishing, waxing, and painting are time-consuming. Happily, there are a few exterior upgrades that cost little to nothing and are readily affected by even the most work-shy sailor. Here are five ways to refresh a well-loved yacht and show her at her best.

After washing, hang lines to dry or tumble in the dryer. (Photo: Fiona McGlynn)

1. Clean The Lines

Dirt and salt make lines unpleasant to handle and shorten their lifespan. Fortunately a quick cold-water run through the washing machine is all that's needed to make nylon and polyester ropes look and feel like new . Optionally, presoak rope in a bucket of water for a few hours. Be sure to coil the rope or pile it into a pillowcase prior to washing (unless of course you're a Gordian knot enthusiast). Hang ropes to dry or tumble in the dryer on low heat.

Rust can easily be removed from fiberglass with a dab of oxalic acid. (Photo: Fiona McGlynn)

2. Remove Rust Stains

Nothing mars the image of crisp white sails or gleaming fiberglass like an unsightly rust stain. Fortunately, these are easily eradicated with a small amount of oxalic acid, often sold at hardware stores as wood bleach. Simply dab the oxalic acid onto the stained area to soak for a minute, then rinse with water and repeat as necessary. No elbow grease required! Beware that oxalic acid can bleach and discolor if left on for too long. It's also toxic and corrosive, so take the appropriate safety precautions and avoid rinsing it into waterways.

"Stainless" steel is a bit of a misnomer. (Photo: BoatUS)

3. Restore Stainless Steel

Despite what the name suggests, stainless steel does in fact rust. Oxidization or "surface rust" can be removed with baking soda paste or a metal polish. I've used a product called Nevr-Dull (about $10 for 5 ounces through Amazon) to great success on our stainless-steel pulpit and stanchions. Regularly hosing down your stainless steel with freshwater will also cut down on oxidization.

The boat's name may last forever, but the vinyl lettering isn't. (Photo: BoatUS)

4. Replace Peeling Vinyl Lettering

Replacing scratched and sun-damaged vinyl lettering is a quick and satisfying job. Most graphics can be removed by applying heat with a hair dryer and peeling back the vinyl by hand. Use a razor blade to carefully scrape away any tricky sections. Once removed, thoroughly clean the area with an adhesive remover before applying new lettering. BoatUS members get 10% off BoatUS Boat Graphics & Lettering and 50% off duplicate graphics .

Time to clear the decks! A cluttered deck makes it challenging to quickly maneuver onboard. (Photo: Fiona McGlynn)

5. Clear The Decks

This old adage comes from the times of wooden ships, but is equally salient on today's cruisers. Taking the time to clear and organize the deck will make for safer and more pleasant sailing.

• Remove any cleats, winches, or rope guides that are broken or part of legacy systems.
• Add rope bags to help tame mess in the cockpit. They often come with pockets for winch handles and cup holders and are a convenient place to stash sunglasses, phones, and sunscreen.
• Stow empty fuel jugs, fenders, toys, and fishing gear in a secure locker.
• Consider an inflatable kayak or paddleboard that can be brought below while underway rather than stored on deck.
• Secure any deck cushions or upholstery in place with hook-and-loop tape or snaps.

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Fiona McGlynn

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

BoatUS Magazine contributing editor Fiona McGlynn and her husband sailed their 35-footer trans-Pacific for two years. Now living north of 59, she’s part of their local search and rescue team and edits WaterborneMag.com, a millennial boating website.

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

Do-It-Yourself Small Sailboat Rigging

Do you have an older sailboat with minimal or worn running rigging? Did you recently buy a used sailboat and you don’t know if you can trust the standing rigging? Do you want to set up your sailboat for maximum cruising pleasure and performance? Do you like to save money but you want quality rigging that you can trust?

There are sailboat rigging books that can help you become a professional rigger. There are books that trace the history of every known sailboat design through the ages. There are rigging books priced as high as college textbooks. If you own a daysailer or weekend cruiser and you just want add a few rigging upgrades to your sailboat, those aren’t the books for you.

All the Most Useful Upgrades in One Place

I’m happy to announce that my latest ebook  Do-It-Yourself Small Sailboat Rigging  is available for purchase starting today. If you like the rigging projects that you’ve read about on The $tingy Sailor for years, then this is the ebook you want. I’ve compiled 21 of the standing rigging and running rigging projects together and organized them in one place.

• Standing rigging including modifications for faster and easier mast stepping
• Boom topping lift, vang, and downhaul
• Mainsail jiffy reefing lines, lazy jacks, and outhaul
• Headsail pendant and downhaul
• Cruising spinnaker rigging on a budget
• Tips on leading lines aft to the cockpit for single-handed sailing
• Running rigging color selection, line storage, and more!

I also brought some of them up to date with projects that I did after I wrote the older posts, including more cross references between projects. And I supplemented many of the projects with my own illustrations like the one below.

Rigging a small sailboat isn’t rocket science and it doesn’t have to cost thousands of dollars. All the projects in this ebook use time-proven methods and materials to give you maximum sailing bang for your hard-earned buck. Besides learning how to install each upgrade, you’ll learn how it works and why it can help you become a better sailor. Numerous photos and illustrations supplement the text.

Save Money and Time

If you’re new to sailboat rigging, it’s confusing to you, or you’re getting ready to partially or completely rerig your sailboat and you want a handy guide, then this ebook is for you. You’ll get over 100 pages of useful, proven, tips and photos on how to do each project yourself. And not only that, but how you can save money doing them.

Whether you want to replace aging and questionable rigging,  be able to handle a wider range of weather conditions, or add sail trimming upgrades for more speed and better pointing to windward, this ebook will show you how.

This ebook is one Adobe PDF file that you can download immediately after completing your purchase with no waiting for delivery. You can start reading it on any device with free Adobe Reader software. That’s practically every PC, Mac, notebook, tablet, and smartphone. If you still like to read paper, you can print it out on your home printer or at many office supply stores, who can also bind it neatly for you.

You’ll get all this for only $20 USD payable by credit card or PayPal.  That’s less than $1 per project! Your financial support will help to keep this blog free for everyone to enjoy. I’m so confident that you’ll enjoy your sailboat more and save money with this ebook that, if after 60 days you’re not satisfied, I will give you a full refund.

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25 small upgrades you can do today

• Rope clutches and cheek blocks bolted to the cabintop can make your sailing easier by organizing sheets and halyards and bringing all essential control lines back to the cockpit. Remember to properly bed all deck hardware with an appropriate adhesive sealant such as 3M's Fast Cure 4000 UV. Cost of this DIY project is about $250 depending on the hardware you choose.
• A drill and screwdriver are all that's needed to install a nylon sheet organizer bag to keep the cockpit tidy ($40). And while you're at it, you can use self-tapping screws to attach collapsible cup holders ($10 each) or a bin to hold your binoculars ($50).
• Another small and inexpensive upgrade involves covering wire shrouds with a plastic tube slightly larger in diameter to protect sail cloth from chafing. If the mast is unstepped, this is an equally good time to slip on a set of turnbuckle boots, which will protect sail cloth and prevent bruising to bare ankles while dressing up the boat's overall appearance. It should cost about $10 per shroud.
• Put an end to those noisy anchorages during which you are kept awake by electrical wires or halyards jangling inside the mast. If the mast is off the boat, buy a long length of flexible plastic tubing for about $10 and feed the wires through it. That should do the trick.
• Depending on the climate in which you sail, the days before launch could be opportune for attaching a bimini for shade or a dodger to keep out the spray and cold. In either instance, measurements must be taken in advance and the materials ordered. An expert hand would be welcome during installation. Keep in mind the cost is likely to exceed $2,000, but you'll consider it money well spent when you're protected from the sun's harsh rays or the occasional wave over the bow.
• Install a new masthead VHF radio antenna or Wi-Fi signal booster and replace the wind indicator that stopped functioning three years ago. A tap-and-die kit, drill and a screwdriver are about all that's needed for these jobs. Expect to pay upward of $150 for an antennae or booster and $60 to $100 for the wind indicator.
• On boats without a permanent VHF radio, you can buy an $8 metal fitting for the cabin end of the antenna wire that will allow you to connect it to your handheld VHF radio, increasing its range beyond 3 miles.
• Has your masthead light seen better days? Rather than work from a bosun's chair, install a new tri-color light while the mast is horizontal for about $150. Some sailors may opt for a masthead flashing strobe that helps identify their boat at night in a crowded mooring field or anchorage, but this device may offend those anchored nearby.
• Tired of looking at an anchor rode bag and length of chain on the foredeck? Installing a chain pipe is easy if you buy a kit made to accommodate your chain link width for about $75. Drill a hole, seal the cored section of exposed deck with epoxy resin and slip the threaded pipe into place. Spin the caulked nut on the underside of the deck and you're ready to store the rode in the forepeak compartment.
• If your winches are outdated, consider upgrading to self-tailing, two-speed models that will make raising halyards and sheeting in that big genoa much easier. If new winches aren't in the budget, used winches that are still in good shape can be picked up at flea markets and on Internet auction sites.
• Just the dread of managing the folding of a mainsail can put a damper on an otherwise great day on the water. Installing lazy jacks will keep everyone happy. They can be added as a DIY project (assuming you don't mind spending some time in a bosun's chair) for about $500.
• Installing a windlass can take the strain out of hauling up the anchor, but that project could require some expertise since it requires deck stress analysis and bolting on a bow roller. Still, it's a doable project that can be completed in a matter of hours once you have done your homework.
• Installing a solar panel (about $150 to $200) and connecting it to your battery bank will pay off if you live in a sunny climate. Make sure you use high-quality connectors.
• A deck-mounted spotlight ($100) can come in handy along the ICW or when searching for a mooring ball at night. It can also be an invaluable tool in a man overboard situation.
• You may want to spring for a fold-down boarding ladder on the transom if the boat's design allows it rather than use a portable one that scratches the topsides and is a challenge to climb. The cost will be about $300 for a stainless steel ladder.
• You might consider making a boom gallows, essentially a wooden crutch that holds the boom in place during heavy weather. This is another DIY project. Find a scrap piece of mahogany or teak and cut it to size. If you want to get fancy, give it a good sanding and varnish it using the tips on page 42.
• Plenty of other small projects await the boat owner belowdecks. Why not sleep more soundly by custom cutting memory foam to replace your lumpy mattresses? Most sailors find the $300 to $500 investment pays off handsomely.
• Consider attaching lee cloths to the quarterberths or settees. The cloths can also protect gear stowed on the bunks. Sunbrella is a good choice and all you need to do is sew up some rectangles, and install grommets. Run lines through the grommets to tie to a handrail and install it on the bottom of the bunk using stainless steel fasteners.
• What about the lack of music in your sailing life? The price of an audio entertainment system with a pair of cabin speakers and another weather-resistant pair for the cockpit can be had for less than $200 and includes a jack or USB port for your iPod-type device.
• Install an extra grab rail in the galley or open area of the main saloon if you find yourself reaching for a handhold that isn't there.
• Bungee cords to keep books from flying off the shelves are easily cut to size and installed in a matter of minutes.
• If fishing is in your future, attach rod holders to the stern pulpit. A plastic rod holder only costs about $15, making it an affordable project even for the occasional fisherman.
• Insulate your icebox with foam insulation board unless you are considering a change to refrigeration.
• A few square feet of fireproof foam-insulation board glued inside the engine compartment can significantly reduce noise, an investment of less than $20.
• Finally, if your boat's head isn't compliant with no-discharge laws, install a Y-valve and a wastewater bladder bag. No special skills are needed. The bag can be fitted beneath a shelf and the upgrade will keep the Coasties happy for about $100.

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10 Best Small Sailboats (Under 20 Feet)

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 28, 2023

Compact, easy to trailer, simple to rig, easy to maintain and manage, and affordable, the best small boats all have one thing in common: they offer loads of fun while out there on the water.

So whether you're on a budget or just looking for something that can offer ultimate daytime rides without compromising on safety, aesthetic sensibilities, alternate propulsion, and speed, the best small sailboats under 20 feet should be the only way to go.

Let's be brutally honest here; not everyone needs a 30-foot sailboat to go sailing. They come with lots of features such as electronics, entertainment, refrigeration, bunks, a galley, and even a head. But do you really need all these features to go sailing? We don't think so.

All you need to go sailing is a hull, a mast, rudder, and, of course, a sail. And whether you refer to them as daysailers, trailerable sailboats , a weekender sailboat, or pocket cruisers, there's no better way to enjoy the thrills of coastal sailing than on small sailboats.

There are a wide range of small boats measuring less than 20 feet available in the market. These are hot products in the market given that they offer immense thrills out on the sea without the commitment required to cruise on a 30-footer. A small sailboat will not only give you the feel of every breeze but will also give you the chance to instantly sense every change in trim.

In this article, we'll highlight 10 best small sailboats under 20 feet . Most models in this list are time-tested, easy to rig, simple to sail, extremely fun, and perfect either for solo sailing or for sailing with friends and family. So if you've been looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats , you've come to the right place.

So without further ado, let's roll on.

Table of contents

{{boat-info="/boats/hunter-15"}}

The Marlow-Hunter 15 is not only easy to own since it's one of the most affordable small sailboats but also lots of fun to sail. This is a safe and versatile sailboat for everyone. Whether you're sailing with your family or as a greenhorn, you'll love the Hunter 15 thanks to its raised boom, high freeboard, and sturdy FRP construction.

With high sides, a comfortable wide beam, a contoured self-bailing cockpit, and fiberglass construction, the Hunter 15 is certainly designed with the novice sailor in mind. This is why you can do a lot with this boat without falling out, breaking it, or capsizing. Its contoured self-baiting cockpit will enable you to find a fast exit while its wide beam will keep it steady and stable no matter what jibes or weight shifts happen along the way.

This is a small sailboat that can hold up to four people. It's designed to give you a confident feeling and peace of mind even when sailing with kids. It's easy to trailer, easy to rig, and easy to launch. With a price tag of about $10k, the Hunter 15 is a fun, affordable, and versatile boat that is perfect for both seasoned sailors and novices. It's a low-maintenance sailboat that can be great for teaching kids a thing or two about sailing.

Catalina 16.5

{{boat-info="/boats/catalina-16-5"}}

Catalina Yachts are synonymous with bigger boats but they have some great and smaller boats too such as Catalina 16.5. This is one of the best small sailboats that are ideal for family outings given that it has a big and roomy cockpit, as well as a large storage locker. Designed with a hand-laminated fiberglass sloop, the Catalina 16.5 is versatile and is available in two designs: the centerboard model and the keel model.

The centerboard model is designed with a powerful sailplane that remains balanced as a result of the fiberglass centerboard, the stable hull form, and the rudder. It also comes with a tiller extension, adjustable hiking straps, and adjustable overhaul. It's important to note that these are standard equipment in the two models.

As far as the keel model is concerned, this is designed with a high aspect keel as the cast lead and is attached with stainless steel keel bolts, which makes this model perfect for mooring or docking whenever it's not in use. In essence, the centerboard model is perfect if you'll store it in a trailer while the keel model can remain at the dock.

All in all, the Catalina 16.5 is one of the best small sailboats that you can get your hands on for as low as $10,000. This is certainly a great example of exactly what a daysailer should be.

{{boat-info="/boats/hobie-16"}}

There's no list of small, trailerable, and fun sailboats that can be complete without the inclusion of the classic Hobie 16. This is a durable design that has been around and diligently graced various waters across the globe since its debut way back in 1969 in Southern California. In addition to being durable, the Hobie 16 is trailerable, great for speed, weighs only 320 pounds, great for four people, and more importantly, offers absolute fun.

With a remarkable figure of over 100,000 launched since its debut, it's easy to see that the Hobie 16 is highly popular. Part of this popularity comes from its asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam sandwiched hulls that include kick-up rudders. This is a great feature that allows it to sail up to the beach.

For about $12,000, the Hobie 16 will provide you with endless fun throughout the summer. It's equipped with a spinnaker, trailer, and douse kit. This is a high-speed sailboat that has a large trampoline to offer lots of space not just for your feet but also to hand off the double trapezes.

Montgomery 17

{{boat-info="/boats/montgomery-17"}}

Popularly known as the M-17, The Montgomery 17 was designed by Lyle C. Hess in conjunction with Jerry Montgomery in Ontario, California for Montgomery Boats. Designed either with keel or centerboard models, the M-17 is more stable than most boats of her size. This boat is small enough to be trailered but also capable of doing moderate offshore passages.

This small sailboat is designed with a masthead and toe rail that can fit most foresails. It also has enough space for two thanks to its cuddly cabin, which offers a sitting headroom, a portable toilet, a pair of bunks, a DC power, and optional shore, and a proper amount of storage. That's not all; you can easily raise the deck-stepped mast using a four-part tackle.

In terms of performance, the M-17 is one of the giant-killers out there. This is a small sailboat that will excel in the extremes and make its way past larger boats such as the Catalina 22. It glides along beautifully and is a dog in light air, though it won't sail against a 25-knot wind, which can be frustrating. Other than that, the Montgomery 17 is a great small sailboat that can be yours for about $14,000.

Norseboat 17.5

{{boat-info="/boats/norseboat-17-5"}}

As a versatile daysailer, Norseboat 17.5 follows a simple concept of seaworthiness and high-performance. This small sailboat perfectly combines both contemporary construction and traditional aesthetics. Imagine a sailboat that calls itself the "Swiss Army Knife of Boats!" Well, this is a boat that can sail and row equally well.

Whether you're stepping down from a larger cruiser or stepping up from a sea kayak, the unique Norseboat 17.5 is balanced, attractive, and salty. It has curvaceous wishbone gaff, it is saucy, and has a stubby bow-sprit that makes it attractive to the eyes. In addition to her beauty, the Norseboat 17.5 offers an energy-pinching challenge, is self-sufficient, and offers more than what you're used to.

This is a small, lightweight, low-maintenance sailboat that offers a ticket to both sailing and rowing adventures all at the same time. At about 400 pounds, it's very portable and highly convenient. Its mainsails may look small but you'll be surprised at how the boat is responsive to it. With a $12,500 price tag, this is a good small sailboat that offers you the versatility to either row or sail.

{{boat-info="/boats/sage-marine-sage-17"}}

If you've been looking for a pocket cruiser that inspires confidence, especially in shoal water, look no further than the Sage 17. Designed by Jerry Montgomery in 2009, the Sage 17 is stable and should heel to 10 degrees while stiffening up. And because you want to feel secure while sailing, stability is an integral feature of the Sage 17.

This is a sailboat that will remain solid and stable no matter which part of the boat you stand on. Its cabin roof and the balsa-cored carbon-fiber deck are so strong that the mast doesn't require any form of compression post. The self-draining cockpit is long enough and capable of sleeping at 6 feet 6 inches.

The Sage 17 may be expensive at $25k but is a true sea warrior that's worth look at. This is a boat that will not only serve you right but will also turn heads at the marina.    

{{boat-info="/boats/laserperformance-laser-sb3"}}

Having been chosen as the overall boat of the year for 2008 by the Sailing World Magazine, the Laser SB3 is one of the coolest boats you'll ever encounter. When sailing upwind, this boat will lock into the groove while its absolute simplicity is legendary. In terms of downwind sailing, having this boat will be a dream come true while it remains incredibly stable even at extraordinary speed.

Since its debut in 2004, the Laser SB3 has surged in terms of popularity thanks to the fact that it's designed to put all the controls at your fingertips. In addition to a lightweight mast, its T- bulb keel can be hauled and launched painlessly. For about $18,000, the Laser SB3 ushers you into the world of sports sailing and what it feels to own and use a sports boat.

{{boat-info="/boats/fareast-18"}}

As a manufacturer, Fareast is a Chinese boat manufacturer that has been around for less than two decades. But even with that, the Fareast 18 remains a very capable cruiser-racer that will take your sailing to the next level. In addition to its good looks, this boat comes with a retractable keel with ballast bulb, a powerful rig, and an enclosed cabin.

Its narrow design with a closed stern may be rare in sailboats of this size, but that's not a problem for the Fareast 18. This design not only emphasizes speed but also makes it a lot easier to maintain this boat. Perfect for about 6 people, this boat punches above its weight. It's, however, designed to be rigged and launched by one person.

This is a relatively affordable boat. It's agile, safe, well-thought-out, well built, and very sporty.

{{boat-info="/boats/chuck-paine-paine-14"}}

If you're in the market looking for a small sailboat that offers contemporary performance with classic beauty, the Paine 14 should be your ideal option. Named after its famous designer, Chuck Paine, this boat is intentionally designed after the classic Herreshoff 12.5 both in terms of dimensions and features.

This is a lightweight design that brings forth modern fin keel and spade rudder, which makes it agile, stable, and faster. The Paine 14 is built using cold-molded wood or west epoxy. It has varnished gunnels and transoms to give it an old-time charm. To make it somehow modern, this boat is designed with a carbon mast and a modern way to attach sails so that it's ready to sail in minutes.

You can rest easy knowing that the Paine 14 will not only serve you well but will turn heads while out there.

{{boat-info="/boats/wd-schock-lido-14"}}

Many sailors will attest that their first sailing outing was in a Lido 14. This is a classic sailboat that has been around for over four decades and still proves to be a perfect match to modern small boats, especially for those still learning the ropes of sailing.

With seating for six people, the Lido 14 can be perfect for solo sailing , single-handed sailing, or if you're planning for shorthanded sailing. While new Lido 14 boats are no longer available, go for a functional used Lido 14 and you'll never regret this decision. It will serve you well and your kids will probably fall in love with sailing if Lido 14 becomes their main vessel during weekends or long summer holidays.

Bottom Line

There you have it; these are some of the best small sailboats you can go for. While there are endless small sailboats in the market, the above-described sailboat will serve you right and make you enjoy the wind.

Choose the perfect sailboat, invest in it, and go out there and have some good fun!

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Sailboat Upgrades and Tips: Pictures from Walking Around

It’s time to get your boat ready for sailing season. We love sailboat upgrades and tips that make boat handling easier, reduce distractions, or reduce wear on the boat.  Here’s a recent collection of pictures shot while walking around at regattas. Please send your favorites upgrades to [email protected] .

Velcro Water Bottle Holder

Keep your water bottle handy and off the floor without installing a conventional holder. Add sticky-back velcro strips to your water bottle and the location(s) you want to keep it. Use strong velcro and the bottle will stay in place on contact.

Portable Urinal

Tape Your Mainsheet Cleat

You know you shouldn’t cleat your mainsheet. If you hold the mainsheet near the deck while hiking in a breeze. you can  inadvertently cleat it, which is trouble. You could remove the cleat, but it’s useful for holding lines while trailering. A wrap of tape is one solution.

Bicycle Handlebar Grip for Tiller Extension

When the wrap on your tiller extension wears out, try bicycle handlebar grip. It’s light, durable, and some varieties have a slight cushion. You can get it with adhesive already applied or just use double stick tape as a backing. Be sure to tape the ends tightly so the spiral doesn’t unravel.

Nylon Washers for Forestay Stability

Richard Blake added these nylon washers to keep his forestay shackle for flopping around.  Get the right thickness to fill the gap.

File the Edges of the Forestay Shackle

The forestay shackle will eventually put serious wear on the bow plate. Some sailors use a round file to ease the edges of the forestay shackle as shown below.

Extend the Ratchet Block

The ratchet block on an MC is fairly low in the cockpit. If you hold the mainsheet low on the deck, it will rub on the hiking straps. Melges sells an extender to raise the ratchet block, or you can make one by coupling two shackles together and taping them so they stand up.

Add Padding to Your Trailer

Saw this on an E-Scow trailer. Not sure what type of foam it is, but it had the right amount of give to it. Looks like it would be easier on the hull while trailering.

Related Content:

MC-Scow Spreader Bracket Modification Reduces Failures MC-Scow Board Release Line for Boats with Pull-Down Lines Continuous Control Lines: Quicker Trim Adjustment for Single-Handers MC-Scow Board Height Adjuster – Go Faster in Breeze Mark the Exit Side of the Ratchet Block to Reduce Confusion MC Sailing Association Fix-it Corner

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MC-Scow Spreader Bracket Modification Reduces Failures

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Book Your Summer 2024 Opti, ILCA, or C420 Charter at Zim Sailing

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More Than Just a Watch

As an avid sailor, the Optimum Time OS Series 12 is a game-changer! Its easy-to-read display, countdown timer, and waterproof design make it an indispensable tool on the water. A must-have for anyone serious about sailing!

The Precision Engineering Of Ronstan Orbit Blocks Is Impressive

These blocks have been a game changer for my sailing rig. The smooth rotation and lightweight design make maneuvering sails a breeze." Highly recommended!

Simple And Light, They Do The Job

I have three cleats on each side of my boat, all of which excel at snagging spinnaker sheets. These things solve the problem perfectly without adding too much weight. I bought two pair, one for the bow cleats and another for the center cleats. The aft most cleats are not a problem.

Excellent One Design Compass

Easy to read and yet smaller; doesn't get in the way of lines on the mast etc. Features are very good and the buttons are actual push buttons that are very responsive (vs touch screen that can be a challenge when wet, with gloves or sunscreen). The Distance to line is extremely accurate.

Exactly what I Needed

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10 Easy, Affordable DIY Boat Improvement Projects

Whether you love wakesurfing , freshwater fishing is your game, or sailing across the bay is how you enjoy your time on the water, one thing is for sure: you love your boat. But no boat is perfect, and virtually every great boat could be made even better.

Ready to roll up your sleeves, and get involved in a little DIY boat improvement? These 10 projects are easy to complete, low-cost, and guaranteed to boost your boat’s cool-factor.

Read to Upgrade Your Boat? Explore the Boat Finder

1. Install a Cell Phone Cradle

When stepping aboard a boat most people stow their cell phone in a glove box (where it bangs around), pack it away in a stowage compartment (you’ll have to dig it out whenever it rings, if you hear it in the first place), or sit it on top of a console (until the first big wave sends it tumbling to the deck). Wouldn’t it be nice to have a cell phone cradle, right by the helm?

These can be had for a few dozen dollars, are uber-easy to install either via peel-and-stick adhesive, suction cups, or by driving in a couple of screws, and they come in all kinds of different adjustable mounts and cradles. If you don’t mind spending a bit more (slightly over $100 in most cases) and running a power wire, you can even get one that has wireless charging built-in.

2. Add More Fishing Rod Holders

Can a fishing boat ever have enough rod holders? We think not! And adding them is very easy as long as you stick with clamp-on rail mounts, or surface-mounts. All you need to add those clamp-ons is a wrench or Allen key, and surface mounts generally get held down with three or four screws.

Prices for rod holders varies by material but even if you eschew the cheaper plastic versions and go for aluminum or stainless, steel, you’ll hardly break the bank.

3. Add More Cupholders

Your boat almost certainly already has a few cupholders, and you almost certainly wonder how they all seem to fill up so fast. Most boaters agree that having more would be a good thing, and there are plenty of inexpensive models out there that can be suction-cupped or peel-and-stick mounted in moments.

4. Install USB Charging Ports

Sick and tired of your electronic accessories running out of juice when you’re 10 miles from the dock? The problem is easily solved by adding USB charging ports to your boat. F

or about $20 you can get a double-port receptacle that has a round one-inch cut-out (read: all you have to do to mount it is drill one round, standard-sized hole) and requires just a positive and negative power feed from the boat’s 12-volt system.

5. Upgrade Your Fish Finder

Many people think upgrading to a new fish finder is a big, expensive job, and in some cases it is. But in other cases, not so much. Many modern units can be upgraded on the cheap in a matter of minutes with a software update and a new transducer.

Software updates are usually free and easy to accomplish (visit your unit’s manufacturer website to determine the exact process, which in some cases is as simple as getting a WiFi link and pressing “go”), and a new transducer rarely costs so much as a couple hundred dollars. Spring for it, and your old fish finder may suddenly have new functions and features galore.

Don't have a fish finder? Learn how to use one , and then install one yourself!

6. Turn a Cooler into a Seat

Most major cooler brands offer seat-conversion kits that can be installed in a matter of minutes.

Cost will depend on the size and brand of the cooler you use, but all you have to do is screw in the snaps that secure the cushion to the top of the cooler and then snap it in place. Poof! You just gained another spot to sit down.

7. Add a Cabinet Door Trash Can

Many boats don’t have trash cans designed in and as a result, you’re always looking for a place to stow those empties.

Solve the problem by getting a behind-the-cabinet-door trash can, which costs next to nothing and can be mounted with screws or adhesive. Then, whenever you swing the cabinet door open the trash can will be right there waiting for you.

8. Get a Rear-View Mirror

If your crew enjoys watersports But your boat doesn’t have a rear-view mirror, adding one would be a great upgrade. There are a number of models out there (most of which go for well under $100) which can be mounted to a windshield frame in moments with hand-screw clamps.

9. Install a High-Water Alarm in the Bilge

Having an alarm belowdecks will give you some serious peace of mind and expand your safety margin. And the project can be incredibly easy, because there are battery-powered units which can be mounted with peel-and-stick pads.

If you don’t want to worry about changing the batteries, just opt for a hard-wired unit (you’ll need to run a power line from the bus bar or battery). What about cost? Prices range from $20 or so up to a couple hundred dollars for hard-wired versions with both audible and visual alarms.

10. Add Multicolor LED Lighting

You wish your boat had mood lighting that changed colors at your command? Not only is it do-able, it’s easy to add. Multicolored LED rope lights that mount with sticky-back foam tape can be placed under the gunwales, around seats, and in cabins. All you’ll have to do is wire in the power supply, and get ready to wow your crew with the colorful display.

How Will You Upgrade Your Boat?

There are much larger, more expensive projects you could get involved in, like adding a sub-woofer to the stereo system or mounting a windlass at the bow. But big projects like those command a serious budget and a serious amount of time.

These 10 KISS boat improvement endeavors, on the other hand, can be done on the cheap in a matter of minutes. Choose one or choose them all, and congratulations—your great boat just became better.

Read Next: First Time Boat Owner's Off-Season Checklist

You May Also Like:

• Basic Boat Electronics for Beginners
• Boating Accessories Guide
• How to Make Your Boat Go Faster
• Boat Maintenance Checklist for New Boaters
• Find the Right Boat for Your Lifestyle

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Sailboat modifications for shorthanded, blue water passages

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by misanthropicexplore , Sep 22, 2020 .

• blue water sailboats
• sailboat maintenance
• sailboat modifications

misanthropicexplore Junior Member

A lot of people have this dream of sailing around the world or the like, and come to the forums (this one and others) with the idea of "saving a lot of money" by building their own boat, usually in accordance with some whackdoodle idea they have which has already been tried and discarded a few times a decade for the last 150 years, and usually because they think it will save them huge amounts of money. Universally the advice given is "Don't. In this day and age, you build a boat for philosophical or aesthetic reasons. If you are trying to save money and have a sailing experience, buy one the tens of thousands of serviceable but tired fiberglass boats out there, modify it appropriately for the journey, and use that ." I've probably seen that answer a 100 times over the last 10 years. So my question today is this what does actually following that advice look like? If you want to become a full time cruiser, go anywhere boat, able to make long, blue water passages with 1-2 people on the cheap, what sort of boat are you supposed to buy? For sake of discussion, let's say you've already decided to save money by keeping the boat as as small, light, and simple as possible. Standing room is not, per se, a requirement, but not being stuck in a clothes drier for six months at a time is. (As one of the "small boat sails around the world" skippers called his experience.) Are certain brands in certain decades just lemons or will any major producer do? Length and displacement come with higher maintenance costs but modernity comes at a higher first cost. What's the sweet spot? If a 1960's fiberglass yacht is 27' long and 1990's one is 21', and both are in decent shape, which one is going to cost you more every five years of ownership? Is the difference between the handling of a 21' and a 27' different enough to be worth getting a boat 30 year older? Do fiberglass hulls wear out, or do boats get cheap because all the support equipment needs to be replaced, like sails, lines, and motors? Do aluminum masts have a cycle limit? After a certain age are they simply to old to safely use? What are these modifications? Taking out the inner pan so you can see the hull? (Like Yvrin did on a journey he took with a kid he was sailing with) Make it unsinkable and get rid of the motor? (Like Roger Taylor has on the different MingMings he's rebuilt. Is it easier to remove unnecessary weight and replace it with stronger structure in some brands than others? Many "Simple Sailors" (as Roger Taylor says) use junk rigs. In most boats this will mean a new, unstayed mast. People talk about doing such things with old masts, cut down. Who do you hire to do the number crunching for modifying an old mast that way and putting it on a boat it was never designed for? (It sounds like something most engineers would never stake their career on.) When are rig modifications like that required? Only for soloing? For high latitude trips? Only when the rig must be handled without ever leaving the cabin? What sort of modifications does it take to make a Bermuda something you can handle from inside the cabin? Regarding saving money, a swing keel and lowerable mast gets you in more places, some of which are cheaper to stay in, but costs more in maintenance. Tenders also add cost. Is it ever cheaper to have a simple boat and nice tender than a more flexibly used boat and simpler tender? How do all of these changes affect your insurance? Are highly modified boats insurable? How much can you change a old factory boat before the underwriter won't touch it? I'm sure there are a million other questions to ask, but I look forward to hearing all of y'all thoughts about this.  

bajansailor Marine Surveyor

misanthropicexplore said: ↑ Are certain brands in certain decades just lemons or will any major producer do? Click to expand...

Blueknarr Senior Member

misanthropicexplore said: ↑ A lot of people have this dream of sailing around the world or the like, and come to the forums (this one and others) with the idea of "saving a lot of money" by building their own boat, usually in accordance with some whackdoodle idea they have which has already been tried and discarded a few times a decade for the last 150 years, and usually because they think it will save them huge amounts of money. Universally the advice given is "Don't. In this day and age, you build a boat for philosophical or aesthetic reasons. If you are trying to save money and have a sailing experience, buy one the tens of thousands of serviceable but tired fiberglass boats out there, modify it appropriately for the journey, and use that ." I've probably seen that answer a 100 times over the last 10 years. I think there is ten currently active threads that this advice is given in the first page So my question today is this what does actually following that advice look like? If you want to become a full time cruiser, go anywhere boat, able to make long, blue water passages with 1-2 people on the cheap, what sort of boat are you supposed to buy? For sake of discussion, let's say you've already decided to save money by keeping the boat as as small, light, and simple as possible. Standing room is not, per se, a requirement, but not being stuck in a clothes drier for six months at a time is. (As one of the "small boat sails around the world" skippers called his experience.) I wouldn't consider a vessel less than 30ft or greater than 40ft. But other opions exist. Are certain brands in certain decades just lemons or will any major producer do? No manufacturer can stay in business making multiple years of flops. The 80s were plagues of blisters, but most survivers are fixed. The 90s have some extreme IOR broach coaches. I would look for models popular with the charter companies. High performance racers don't always convert to cruising well. Length and displacement come with higher maintenance costs but modernity comes at a higher first cost. What's the sweet spot? If a 1960's fiberglass yacht is 27' long and 1990's one is 21', and both are in decent shape, which one is going to cost you more every five years of ownership? Is the difference between the handling of a 21' and a 27' different enough to be worth getting a boat 30 year older? IMO absolutely. Most 27s have some standing headroom. I can't think of a single 21 that I can stand in. Ditto for typical bunk length. Do fiberglass hulls wear out, or do boats get cheap because all the support equipment needs to be replaced, like sails, lines, and motors? One needs to replace all of the"support" systems several times before the FG will rot some time two centuries from now. Do aluminum masts have a cycle limit? After a certain age are they simply to old to safely use? They corrode at all the fastiners far faster than any cyclic deteration. What are these modifications? Taking out the inner pan so you can see the hull? (Like Yvrin did on a journey he took with a kid he was sailing with) Make it unsinkable and get rid of the motor? (Like Roger Taylor has on the different MingMings he's rebuilt. Is it easier to remove unnecessary weight and replace it with stronger structure in some brands than others? Many "Simple Sailors" (as Roger Taylor says) use junk rigs. In most boats this will mean a new, unstayed mast. People talk about doing such things with old masts, cut down. Who do you hire to do the number crunching for modifying an old mast that way and putting it on a boat it was never designed for? (It sounds like something most engineers would never stake their career on.) No competent rigger touches an old stick unless you are buying a lot of wire to hold it up. When are rig modifications like that required? Only for those clinging to wacky doodle ideas. Only for soloing? For high latitude trips? Only when the rig must be handled without ever leaving the cabin? What sort of modifications does it take to make a Bermuda something you can handle from inside the cabin? Lots of deck organizing blocks. But why? There's advantage to having the control lines not bunched up. Regarding saving money, a swing keel and lowerable mast gets you in more places, some of which are cheaper to stay in, but costs more in maintenance. Tenders also add cost. Is it ever cheaper to have a simple boat and nice tender than a more flexibly used boat and simpler tender? Either way a robust tender is essential. How do all of these changes affect your insurance? Are highly modified boats insurable? How much can you change a old factory boat before the underwriter won't touch it? Good quality workmanship is always insurable I'm sure there are a million other questions to ask, but I look forward to hearing all of y'all thoughts about this. Click to expand...

sharpii2 Senior Member

There are three major reasons older, "tired" GRP sailing "yachts" end up on the market for ridiculously low prices: 1.) they become unfashionable. Many of them were built with at least some racing in mind. The last few decades has brought about much faster boats and left a lot of '70's and ' 80's behind. 2.) their gel coat fades. This makes them look Shabbier than they really are. And since one of the main reasons for owning a "yacht" is to impress other people, once the looks are gone, it's time to move on to a later model. 3.) They need some sort of refit or major repair. This is probably the biggest reason. But there's no reason for these three reasons to not be linked. They often are. First, the "yacht" is purchased new by a well-off owner. Second, it becomes seen as dated, and is sold often to someone less affluent. That person keeps it for a few years, but often doesn't maintain it. The gel coat fails and the rigging gets old. And maybe this owner gets tired of it. He/she sells it for a lower price. It is then bought by a "dreamer", someone who thinks he/she can afford its upkeep but really can't. At this point, systems on board start failing. And the "dreamer" can't afford to make the repairs. After a while the "dreamer" stops paying his/her yard bill, puts the boat up for sale, but no one buys it. The "dreamer" then walks away. The yard is then stuck with a very large object which they can't get rid of. Even if they repaired it and put it on the market, they would not get nearly what they put into it. What was once a "yacht" has now become a very expensive to own pleasure boat. These older boats, which often become "derelicts", sit around for years, until they are sawn up for scrap. A few of the lucky ones are encountered by "doers". The "doers" know exactly what they are getting into. They know this boat they are purchasing will continue to lose value, even if they fix it up. They know that they will have to make most if not all the repairs themselves, as they probably don't have the cash to pay a professional to do it. Often, the "doer" plans on doing something with the boat which is not practical with a later model. Sailing it across oceans is a typical example. If they own the boat free and clear, they don't have to insure it. They also don't have to make payments on it either. This suits them fine. They are now free to modify the boat to their requirements, then take off to sail over the horizon. Usually, they plan to live aboard. And many move in long before the upgrades and rapairs are completed. The boat becomes their primary home, even while it still sits on the hard, sometimes with huge holes in it. Read some Fatty Goodlander books. There are a number of YouTube videos that I am following which follow this storyline. They are well worth watching. I watch them myself all the time. Apparently, GRP is relatively easy to repair, even if it has cored construction. I saw one video where a guy was repairing a huge catamaran which was hurricane damaged. I watched him cheerfully saw away square meters of the outer skin to get to the delaminated and even waterlogged core. The inner skin was left intact to maintain the hull shape. The damage was quite extensive, but the boat ended up sailing away. Building a boat from scratch cannot compete in cost, time, or even practicality. But it can be justified for certain reasons. 1.) to end up with the exact boat you want. You can either design it yourself, or get plans for a stock design you like. If you want to try something unusual, you can probably find a designer to work with you. That is, if your idea is the least bit workable. If you cannot find an experienced designer to work with you, this is a sure sign of trouble with your ideas. You can always go ahead and build the boat anyway, but you will be taking a huge risk. The early catamaran yachts were home-built, as well as a huge portion of the early trimarans. Experienced designers of that time did not think such boats were feasible. 2.) Assuming you have the skills, you have much better quality control than you would have if you bought a boat built by someone else, years or decades ago, and mainly to make a profit. You can make key areas extra strong. You can go the next size up in rigging and fittings, such as blocks, winches and cleets.  

Will Gilmore Senior Member

misanthropicexplore, I enjoyed reading your question and bajansailor gave a pretty thorough answer with regard to the dynamics and I certainly agree with sharpii2, that's how it goes. There are lots of great boats that have proven ocean and circumnavigation records. For one or two, the Flicka stands out in my mind. I've not sailed one, but they are well regarded for small, inexpensive, simple and capable ocean sailers. It isn't expensive to bring your reefing lines to the cockpit. As far as modifications to make a rig Bluewater long distance capable, I wouldn't suggest taking Sven Yervin's approach. Speed is a important to safety as self-righting. A boat that sails well and can shorten the time spent mid-ocean is a safer boat. Tender are nice and a cheap inflatable that holds one can work on a boat under 30 feet, I wouldn't know where the tipping point is between initial cost and replacement/repair cost, but a smaller boat, say under 21 feet, could tie up at the dinghy dock for groceries and sight seeing, then paddle or motor out to a mooring. There's also, usually a significant break in dockage fees for less than 30 feet. Of course, when a boat gets too small, it lacks room for redundant systems such as a second anchor or large fuel and water tanks. Extra sails, rigging and even building materials and carpentry tools have been known to become necessary in the middle of the ocean. It will be ingesting to see where this thread goes. -Will (Dragonfly)  

I want to thank all of you for your fantastic answers so far, this was exactly what I was hopping for, and I'm also intrigued to see what other people have to say on the subject.  

Blueknarr said: ↑ Sailing other people's boats is far cheeper than owning your own. Next cheaper is joining a charter club/school. Crewing on a race boat is the absolute cheapest way to get on the water. Most yacht clubs host low key entry level beer can races. There's always room for a newbie. I have noticed an inverse relationship between a sailer's experience and how strongly whacky doodle ideas are held on to. Probably because most of them are complex semi-solutions to non-issue s Click to expand...

Rumars Senior Member

Modifications all serve a purpose, meaning you need to define what you want a boat to do. A high latitude boat would be optimised differently from a tropics boat. Some modifications are purely subjective like unsinkability, a certain rig, etc. Production boats come as a happy compromise for a certain type of sailing. Usually you find a boat that was intended from the start for your type of activity and optimise the remaining 10%. You have three categories of costs: initial purchase, outfitting and replacement, operating costs. Initial purchase is more about the market and the specifc boats state. A smaller very well outfitted and maintained one is more expensive then a bigger boat in a poor state. Outfitting and replacement is not always tied to lenght and displacement. Electronics, electrics, plumbing, galley, general interior has more to do with the owner then the boat. You can have pressure water and AC on a 25ft boat and a bucket and jetboil on a 60ft one. The parts that are boat size dependent usually come in brackets. A 10hp diesel is not significantly cheaper then a 20hp diesel, rigging, sails, anchors, etc. will not vary much in a ten feet lenght range, and 3t displacement. How much of this systems must be replaced and how often depends on use, preferences and luck. Operating costs relate to boat size. Bigger motor means more fuel, more lenght costs more in a marina, more antifoul to buy, etc. This is where you pay for comfort, and you must decide how much it's worth for you to have those things. In real life for most cruisers this costs are actually trivial, they go under "cost of living". As for what to buy it depends on your preferences. Few designs (old or modern) under 30ft have a shower for example. Waterline lenght and interior space usually increase in more modern designs. Encapsulated keels are difficult to find in smaller modern boats. You need to find a boat that you like as she is, not one where you see the "potential" and spend money and time on useless modifications. If you don't trust boats with liners, grids and keelbolts, you buy one that does not have this features. 1. What sailing do you imagine to do? 2. What comfort creatures are important for you? 3. What are your prefered boat features?. 4. How much money do you have? This questions define what boat you get, and you must first know the answers.  

misanthropicexplore said: ↑ Why 30>40'? I understand the benefits to a smaller boat and a bigger boat, but why is 30 - 40 feet the Goldilocks zone? Click to expand...

5 small sailboats for sailing around the world - WaterborneMag.com https://waterbornemag.com/5-small-sailboats-for-sailing-around-the-world/ Featured sailor D'Arcy hangs out on sailboatowners.net sometimes. -Will (Dragonfly)  

Just for the sake of discussion here are some of the features I would want in a "go anywhere" boat: hard dodger, soft bimini, windvane, electric autopilot, solar, small genset, hard and inflatable dinghy, hot water, air conditioning in marinas, diesel heater, shower, fridge, freezer, hull and deck insulation.  

Rumars said: ↑ Just for the sake of discussion here are some of the features I would want in a "go anywhere" boat: hard dodger, soft bimini, windvane, electric autopilot, solar, small genset, hard and inflatable dinghy, hot water, air conditioning in marinas, diesel heater, shower, fridge, freezer, hull and deck insulation. Click to expand...

Definetly watermaker, I forgot about it. Wind self steering I mentioned. Wind and hydrogenerator optional. Maybe a composting toilet. It's such a conflicting list because the OP wanted "go anywhere". One does not need a heater in the tropics or AC in the arctic but if one wants to go both places on the same boat ... Fridge, freezer, are just convenient, one can cruise successfully without either. Even engine and electricity can be optional (not that I would advise it). Indeed there are very few under 30 boats that can have it all. Even if you manage it will be a hard squeeze and you must watch weight like on a multi and it all becomes overly complicated. Fortunately there is no need for the 30 limit. Just now we have a thread where a member bought a Tartan 34C for 1000$. It needs a lot of work of course, but it shows that good boats are cheap. Two guys just finished a 900 days circumnavigation on one and I doubt they can sell their fully kitted (for a milk run) boat for much more then 10k. Just the simple fact that you can work on the engine without beeing a contorsionist makes this model way better then most others. My current favorite for a under 30' cruiser is a Grinde 27, that boat is huge inside and has no overhangs to speak of, very fast for its length. It has no shower but one could be fitted if really desired. In the end it's more about the sailor then the boat, Webb Chiles circumnavigated on a Moore 24 and his only modifications were tillerpilot and solar panels. But of course it's fair to say he is not your standard cruiser.  

Rumars said: ↑ Webb Chiles circumnavigated on a Moore 24 Click to expand...

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I have a very specific idea of safety and that particular kind of safety is the most important thing to me. (1.) The safest trip is the one you don't make, but if it's too comfortable, save your money and get an apartment by the beach and a kayak, so the boat needs to provide only backpacking levels of comfort. (2.) The best way to not go is be able to stay a lot of places, so you need the option of shoal draft and beachability. (3.) Once you decide to go, the trip you have the most control over is the safest, so it needs to point highly. (4.) Once you are out there, you need get out of the way as fast as possible so it needs to be fast. (5.) You can't make safe decisions if you are exhausted, so it needs to look after the skipper. (6.) At some point, no matter how careful you are and no matter how good the boat is, you will screw up badly and the boat has to be strong enough to survive that. (1.) Suggests stripped down, simple boat. (2.) Suggests a flatish bottom, centerboard/swingkeel as well as swing rudder. (3.) Suggests a high efficiency rig. (4.) Suggests an unusually long narrow boat. (A planing form isn't an option because the ride is exhausting in bad weather, so the only way to get speed is long and narrow.) (5.) Suggests a hull shape something like the USCG 36' Motor Lifeboat. (6.) Suggests a monohull, multiple watertight bulkheads etc. All of my desired features are in conflict with each other. (Which, I suppose, is pretty normal.) Stripped down, simple boats don't have all the extra doohickies that a swing keel and high efficiency rigs require. Light weight, long, narrow boats don't have the mass or shape of a chubby lifeboat. Multiple watertight bulkheads don't make boats that are easy to live or camp in. To me, the perfect compromise would be something very much like a Montreal Canoe, decked, with a center cuddy, bulb keel daggerboard and a schooner rig made from common high efficiency dingy rigs. No one makes anything even remotely like that.  

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30 Inexpensive Boat Accessories

• By Boating Tech Team
• Updated: February 21, 2019

Who says you can’t find a great deal on accessories for boats? Yes, it’s true: a lot of marine accessories cost a pretty penny, but there are plenty of great products that don’t break the bank. Whether you’re searching for fun boating accessories or something a little more practical, both can be found at a reasonable price.

Below you’ll find our 30 best boat accessories that cost under $30. You may consider some of the items to be must-have products, while others are just cool gadgets to keep on board. Either way, we think the majority are worth more than their price tag indicates.

West Marine Flip Lock Drain Plug

If you’ve ever forgotten to put the plug in, then you know it makes sense to keep a few drain plugs handy.

Taylor Made Port and Starboard Mini Keychain Floats

Red, right, return? Keep track of port and starboard with these keychain floats .

Benetech GM816 Handheld Anemometer

Need a wind reading? Yes, there’s an app for that. But to get accurate real-time wind measurements at your location, a handheld anemometer is the boat accessory you really need.

Survival Puck First-Aid Kit

Space is always at a premium on boats and personal watercraft, which is why this compact first-aid kit is great to bring aboard. The palm-size container holds bandages, antibiotics, antiseptics and sterile tools to use should a medical need arise.

Sea to Summit 20-Liter Dry Sack

This lightweight, waterproof bag has taped seams and a roll-top clip system to keep your gear safe from water. It’s available in five different colors.

Overton’s Four-Buckle Nylon Vest

These closed-cell foam flotation vests come in different colors and can be used on board or during watersports.

Davis Queaz-Away Relief Bands

Slip on these wristbands to apply acupressure to your wrists to help combat seasickness symptoms while at sea.

Rite in the Rain Large Waterproof Spiral Notebook

Some of us still like to keep manual ship’s logs or maintenance logs. Whatever your need, a waterproof notebook is the right way to go on a boat.

Flambeau 14-Inch Marine Dry Box

This hard case has a water-resistant O-ring seal that, when latched down, keeps the gear inside dry.

Olixar X-Ranger iPhone X Survival Case

Keep your iPhone protected with this rugged case that has a flip-out kickstand and a concealed multitool that’s about the size of a credit card.

NoCry Cut-Resistant Gloves

If you plan on working with knives or sharp tools on your boat, these gloves will protect your digits. Made from polyethylene, fiberglass and spandex, they are cut-resistant and machine-washable.

HUK Watch Cap

Made from 100 percent acrylic fabric, this classic cap will help any boater keep his head in the game while venturing offshore in cooler climes.

Pelagic Gear Circle Bottle-Opener Keychain

One thing about bottle openers is when you need one, you can never find one. Change that with this keychain from Pelagic.

MagBand Magnetic Wristband

When working on boats, dropping drill bits and other tool parts into the bilge or some hard-to-reach place is always a risk. Keep them attached to you by wearing this Mag-Band magnetic wristband while you work.

Fireboy Xintex SS-775 Smoke and Fire Alarm

This general-purpose smoke and fire alarm runs on a 9-volt battery so you don’t have to hard-wire it to your boat.

Smith’s Adjustable-Angle Pull-Through Knife Sharpener

This manual sharpener lets you adjust the settings to course or fine to sharpen a wide variety of knives.

Whistles for Life Tri-Power Whistle

This clip-on emergency whistle can be added to your life jacket, used as a keychain or kept handy aboard your boat. The plastic waterproof whistle creates 120 decibels of rescuer-alerting sound.

Meguiar’s Boat/RV Air Refreshers

Use the fog canisters to get rid of annoying odors belowdecks. After fogging an enclosed area for 15 minutes, open the area and let it air out, and the odors will be gone.

Airhead Complete Folding Anchor System

This 3.5-pound four-fluke anchor is designed for use with small boats, dinghies, kayaks, canoes and PWC. Packs into a bag along with a 25-foot nylon rope and a float.

Snow Peak Titanium Spork

Eating aboard a small boat can be civilized if you pack the right cutlery. Slurp or chew with this lightweight, durable spork made from titanium.

Cleatus Cups

Cleatus cups use a 6-inch cleat as a handle, giving them the perfect nautical look while holding a 24-ounce beverage. They can be customized.

Lead Masters Stretch Wrap Finger

Protect your fingertips from line cuts or any other kind of abrasion while fishing or doing general boating maintenance.

Suunto Clipper L/B NH Compass

Underrated and under-appreciated, a magnetic compass should be part of every boater’s tool kit. Use this clip-on as a backup to your fixed mount to help find the way home.

Sheldon SFD Fish Descender

Designed to safely return fish to great depths, the Sheldon SFD Fish Descender clips to the fish’s mouth. Tie your line to one end and a heavy sinker to the other end, and send the fish back home.

Double Parachute Camping Hammock

Part of the boating life should always include a time and a place to hang a hammock by the water. This one, made of parachute nylon, squishes down into a portable sack and hangs with straps instead of ropes. Holds two adults.

Ironwood Pacific Top-Snapper Tool for Boat Snaps

Snapping and unsnapping boat canvas is a job that nobody loves. Make it easier with this snapper tool that helps align snaps for fastening and also helps unsnap without breaking snaps or tearing the canvas.

Buff Aquatic Camo Headband

Smaller than traditional Buff head wear, the headband is a great way to keep out of the sun and keep the sweat off.

AFTCO Spin Strap

Use the Spin Strap to get better pulling leverage with your spinning rod when using a harness and belt.

Dock Edge MFP Fender Line

Get this multicolored fender line to keep your fenders safe and secure at your boat or mooring. The nylon mesh rope will stand up to the elements yet remain soft and pliable.

Blacktip Vertical Three-Rod Rack

Stow rods aboard any boat with this one-piece rack made of corrosion-resistant polypropylene . It’s easy to install and lets you create space for rods on any boat.

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Planning a Sailboat Electronics Upgrade

• By David Schmidt
• Updated: May 19, 2021

Contemporary electronics can add a lot to a cruising sailboat. For starters, the gains often include easier-to-understand information, and therefore better situational awareness and increased safety. The catch, however, is that new plotters, radars and other instruments can be expensive, both to purchase and have installed. And then there’s the issue of getting new equipment to interface with older-but-still-functional gear. Because of this, plenty of cruisers manage just fine with older electronics that—while dated—still work and help get them from here to there.

But, as with all things marine, even once-high-end equipment eventually reaches its endgame. Trouble is, determining when checkmate is inevitable isn’t always obvious, so I reached out to two experts—Nigel Barron, sales and marketing manager at Seattle’s CSR Marine ( csrmarine.com ), and Rufus Van Gruisen, owner of Cay Electronics in Portsmouth, Rhode Island ( cayelectronics.com )—to learn more about when it’s time to (literally) pull the plug on old kit. In doing so, they also helped shed light on the performance and safety gains that can take the sting out of new-equipment purchases.

“Electronics typically work or don’t,” Van Gruisen says, adding that shy of a catastrophic event such as a lightning strike, obsolescence is the biggest gravedigger for most marine instruments. For example, Van Gruisen points to chart plotters: “New charts often don’t work on older plotters because they take up too much memory. A lot of products become obsolete because they can’t load modern software. A cruiser would need to find old, out-of-date charts to make it work.”

This might suffice in places such as Maine, where the seafloor is generally stable and where up-to-date cartography sometimes relies on old bathymetric surveys, but this certainly doesn’t hold true for places such as Chesapeake Bay or the Bahamas, where seafloors morph with storm events and time.

Another vintage-equipment killer, Van Gruisen says, is that manufacturers eventually stop supporting updates for older electronics. For example, older chart plotters can eventually stop working with current GPS configurations.

Barron agrees that obsolescence can be a problem; seven years, he says, is a reasonable life span for most electronics. He points to issues such as inconsistent data from sensors or transducers, speed information failing to display, or screen pixels going dark as signs that it could be time to upgrade. Plus, he believes, seven years is enough time for the market to offer significantly better products. “A cathode-ray tube television might still work, and an older radar might still work, but there are way-better products available that offer better reliability, lower power consumption and new features.”

Prime examples of this are digital, solid-state Doppler-enabled radars that depict dangerous targets in one color (typically red) on a chart-plotter display, and stationary or benign targets in another color (typically green or blue). This functionality not only makes it easier and more intuitive to read a radar display, but these radars are also designed to overlay this imagery atop cartography on a chart-plotter screen, thus improving the user’s situational awareness.

“In 2010, radar was analog,” Barron says. “In 2021, it’s digital.”

While these technological gains are to be celebrated, especially by cruisers who have plied waters shrouded in Down East pea-soup fog or Pacific Northwest rain, adding a modern Doppler-enabled radar to an older marine-electronics ecosystem isn’t usually a plug-and-play possibility.

“If an owner wants a new peripheral sensor attached to the chart plotter, they might need to replace the plotter,” Van Gruisen says. “It’s sometimes hard to replace one piece of electronics because it might not integrate with other equipment on the boat.”

Because of this, both Barron and Van Gruisen point to a new chart plotter as the place to start for refits both mighty and modest. “If you’re on a budget, you can buy a plotter and add sensors later,” Barron says. “It all starts with the plotter.”

Another common roadblock to easy upgrades involves data networks. While the older NMEA 0183 network protocol allowed discrete instruments to share some data, newer NMEA 2000 (commonly referred to as N2K) data backbones make it easy for owners to add new equipment to their network with considerably less fuss. Moreover, most new equipment is designed and built to work with N2K networks. While manufacturers still commonly support NMEA 0183 by making equipment “backward compatible” or by making an NMEA 0183 version of a new piece of equipment, this could change as N2K becomes increasingly dominant.

The problem, Barron says, is that converting to N2K “isn’t something that’s done in a vacuum. It’s part of a larger installation. There are upfront costs, but it will save you money down the road because it makes it easier to add new equipment.”

Another game-changer that both Barron and Van Gruisen agree on is the advent of the automatic identification system, or AIS. While recreational-level AIS has existed since 2006, recent years have seen a massive embrace of this technology by mariners of all stripes.

“The rate of uptake took us all by surprise,” Van Gruisen says. “AIS is now more useful than radar. It won’t protect you from all targets in pea-soup fog, but it’s easier to read than radar.” This is especially true if AIS targets can be overlaid atop cartography on a chart-plotter screen. (Or better still, overlaid atop radar and cartography.)

“AIS is a fraction of the cost of radar,” Barron says, adding that AIS costs roughly $1,000, while a new radar can fetch $3,000. Moreover, he says, falling prices have also encouraged mariners to embrace newer technologies. “The price difference between an AIS receiver and an AIS transceiver has become so narrow, why not transmit your position?”

While AIS and Doppler-enabled radar are two great examples of modern technologies either usurping older gear (such as analog magnetron radars) or revolutionizing marine safety (in the case of AIS), there are other gains to be had by upgrading, especially as prices on no-longer-bleeding-edge technologies fall. Some examples of this include forward-looking sonar, side-scanning sonar, thermal-imaging cameras, and bigger, easier-to-use screens and user interfaces.

“For Alaska cruising, it’s nice to have something more than a numerical representation of depth,” Barron says, noting that more adventure-minded cruisers are investigating forward-looking sonar. Van Gruisen agrees, adding that some Bahamas-bound clients who want to navigate through skinny waters have been gravitating toward forward-looking and side-scanning sonar.

Other new technologies worth a look include Raymarine’s ClearCruise AR (the “AR” stands for augmented reality), which uses cameras to place AIS-like tags above aids to navigation and other targets on a video feed that’s displayed on the chart plotter. And then there is B&G’s SailSteer, which takes numerical instrument data—apparent wind angles, true wind direction and course over ground—from the boat’s nav system and creates an easy-to-read onscreen graphical representation of the wind, which can make sailing easier and safer.

“I don’t see people coming in saying, ‘I want ClearCruise AR,’” Van Gruisen says. “But when it’s time for an upgrade, that’s the kind of technology they’re looking at.”

Ultimately, Barron says, sailors typically upgrade their electronics for two reasons: “Things break, or they go out on their friend’s boat and realize that it’s time to get out of the Stone Age.”

Should either of these descriptors apply to your sailboat, the good news is that today’s electronics offer far-better user interfaces, situational awareness and safety features than old-school gear. And while there’s no escaping the associated upgrade costs, this investment should deliver a significantly better time on the water.

David Schmidt is CW’s electronics editor.

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Learn How to Sail a Small Sailboat – 1. The Parts of the Boat

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Typical Small Sailboat

The Hunter 140 shown here is a typical centerboard sailboat used for learning how to sail and for sailing in protected waters. It can hold two adults or three children. It is easily rigged and sailed. We will use this boat throughout this Learn to Sail - Full Course.

Shown here is the boat as it is typically left on a dock or mooring, with sails and rudder removed.

If you know very little about sailing, you might want to learn some basic terms referring to the boat and sailing technique before starting this course.

The mast and boom are usually left in place on the boat. The forestay holds up the mast from the bow of the boat, and a single shroud on each side of the boat holds the mast side to side. The shrouds are mounted back of the mast, so they also keep the mast from falling forward. The stay and shrouds are made of flexible wire that can be disconnected to trailer or store the boat.

On most large sailboats, there are multiple shrouds to support the mast, along with a back stay support to the stern. Otherwise, this boat is representative of the basic standing rigging of a sloop, the most common type of modern sailboat.

The Mast Step

Here’s a close-up view of the bottom of the mast atop the boat. The stainless steel mounting piece affixed to the boat is called the mast step. In this boat model, a pin emerging from the mast on both sides simply fits into a slot in the mast step. The mast is lightweight and easily raised by hand.

Once the mast is stepped, it is held securely in place by the shrouds and forestay, as shown in the previous photo.

On most small sailboats, the rudder is mounted on the stern of the hull, as shown here. The rudder is a long, thin blade hanging vertically from a simple set of hinges (which varies somewhat among different boats). The rudder pivots on a vertical axis, swinging side to side, which turns the boat when it is moving through the water. (We’ll describe steering in Part 3 of this course.)

The rudder may be stored on the boat or removed, like the sails, after sailing. Here, the rudder is being reinstalled. On this model the rudder has a kick-up feature, which allows it to swing up if the boat strikes bottom.

The rudder is turned side to side by the tiller, the long metal arm seen here extending from the top of the rudder about 3 feet into the cockpit. On many boats the tiller is made of wood.

Note the black handle on top of the metal tiller arm. Called a tiller extension, this device mounts near the end of the tiller and can be moved far out to the side of the boat or forward. The extension is needed because when sailing close to the wind, sailors may need to move their body weight far out to the side (called “hiking out”) in order to keep the boat balanced. We’ll see this in Part 3 of this course.)

Most large sailboats use a wheel apparatus to turn the rudder, because the forces on the boat’s rudder can be so much larger that it would be difficult to steer with a tiller.

Boom Gooseneck

The boom attaches to the mast with a fitting called a gooseneck. The gooseneck allows the boom to swing far out to both sides as well as to pivot up and down.

This photo also shows the vertical slot in the mast used to hold the mainsail's front edge (the "luff") to the mast (as you’ll see in Part 2 of this course). The sail “slugs,” fittings on the sail's luff, slide up the mast in this slot.

A similar slot can be seen in the top of the boom, to hold the foot of the sail.

The L-shaped metal pin at the forward end of the boom holds the forward bottom corner of the mainsail, called the tack.

Note the two lines (never called “rope” on a boat!) running up the mast. These are the halyards, described in the next page.

The Halyards

Halyards are the lines that pull the sails up the mast. A typical small sloop like this sailboat has two sails, the mainsail and jib, and thus has two halyards – one to pull up the top corner ("head") of each sail. (We’ll see this is Part 2 of this course.)

At the end of a halyard is a fitting, called a shackle, that attaches the sail to the line. The line then runs up to a block (pulley) at the masthead, and comes back down alongside the mast as you see here. Pulling down on this end of the halyard hoists the sail up.

When the sail is up, the halyard is tied off tight to the mast cleat using a cleat hitch, as shown here.

Halyards are part of the boat’s running rigging. "Running rigging" refers to all the lines that control the sails or other rigging, which can be moved or adjusted while sailing - unlike the fixed rigging, the usually metal, fixed parts of the rig (mast, boom, stays, shrouds).

Mainsheet Block and Tackle

Another key part of a boat’s running rigging is the mainsheet. This line runs between the boom and a fixed point in the cockpit (as shown here) or cabin top. As the line is let out, the boom and mainsail can swing farther out from the boat’s centerline. As described in Part 3 of this course, moving the sails in or out, called trimming the sails, is necessary for sailing at different angles to the wind.

Even in a small sailboat the force of the wind in the mainsail can be considerable. The use of a block and tackle in the mainsheet provides a mechanical advantage so that the mainsail can be managed by one person, with one hand, while sailing.

On most larger sailboats, the mainsheet mounts from the boom to a traveler rather than to a fixed point. The traveler can move the attachment point side to side for better sail shape.

Finally, notice the cam cleat where the mainsheet exits the block and tackle. This cleat holds the mainsheet in place after being adjusted.

Jibsheet and Cleat

When the jib sail is put on the forestay (“bent on”), a sheet is run from its aft corner (the “clew”) on each side of the mast back to the cockpit. The jib sheets allow the sailor to trim the jib, as described in Part 3 of this course.

Each jib sheet is led back through a cam cleat, as shown here, which holds the line in place. The jaws of the cam cleat allow the line to be pulled back but not slip forward. To release the jib sheet, the sailor jerks the line up and out of the jaws (into the open space below the top red piece shown).

The Centerboard

The final part we’ll look at in this boat introduction is the centerboard. You can’t actually see most of the centerboard, however, because it is in the water below the boat. This photo shows only its top edge protruding from the centerboard trunk down the middle of the cockpit.

The centerboard is a long, thin blade mounted at one end on a pivot point. When its control line is let out, the centerboard swings down into the water – usually about 3 feet down on a boat of this size. The thin board slices cleanly through the water as the boat moves forward, but its large flat side provides resistance to prevent the wind from blowing the boat sideways. In Part 3 of this course we’ll discuss how the centerboard is used while sailing.

Note the centerboard control line running back on the right side of the centerboard trunk. The cleat that holds the line and keeps it from moving forward is called a clam cleat because of its shape. With no moving parts, this cleat holds a line squeezed into it. It is not as secure as the cam cleat for the mainsheet and jibsheets, but the force on the centerboard line is much less.

This completes our introduction of the basic parts of a small sailboat.

• How to Gybe a Sailboat
• How to Raise the Mainsail
• Simple Reefing System for Sailors
• How to Tack a Sailboat
• How to Rig a Preventer Line
• How to Use a Mainsheet Traveler
• Using a Sailboat Boom Vang in Sailing
• How to Use a Sailboat's Outhaul
• Control Your Tiller Without a Tiller-Tamer
• The Sunfish: A Perfect Lake or Urban Sailboat
• How to Use Roller Furling
• How to Use a Topping Lift
• How to Heave To a Sailboat
• When to Adjust Sailboat Sails for Stronger Winds
• Choosing a Centerboard or Fixed Keel Sailboat
• How to Tow a Dinghy Behind a Sailboat

Demi Moore on Full Frontal Nudity With Margaret Qualley in ‘The Substance’: ‘A Very Vulnerable Experience’ but I Had a ‘Great Partner Who I Felt Very Safe With’

Demi Moore ‘s new film, the feminist body horror “ The Substance ,” sees her bare it all, with several scenes featuring full nudity. At the Cannes Film Festival press conference for the film on Monday, the 61-year-old actor discussed the “vulnerable experience.”

“Going into it, it was really spelled out — the level of vulnerability and rawness that was really required to tell the story,” Moore said. “And it was a very vulnerable experience and just required a lot of sensitivity and a lot of conversation about what we were trying to accomplish.”

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“I had someone who was a great partner who I felt very safe with. We obviously were quite close  — naked — and we also got a lot of levity in those moments at how absurd those certain situations were,” she said. “But ultimately. it’s just about really directing your communication and mutual trust.”

As the film progresses, Moore becomes horribly disfigured thanks to the abuse her other half Qualley is inflicting on her. By the film’s last act, she quite resembles Anjelica Huston from the 1990 film “The Witches,” after she transforms into a humpback abomination.

Dennis Quaid also stars in the film as an “asshole,” as he described his character during the presser. The late Ray Liotta was meant to have the role before his passing in May 2022, and Quaid dedicated his performance to him.

“In my heart, I dedicated this role to Ray Liotta, who was set to play it,” Quaid said. “It was this week, two years ago that he passed, so I’d like to remember him. He was such an incredible actor.”

Cannes went wild for “The Substance” at its premiere on Sunday night, giving the film an 11-minute standing ovation , the longest of the fest so far.

In an interview with Variety , the French director discussed the film’s feminist themes, saying that body horror is “the perfect vehicle to express the violence all these women’s issues are about.”

With an undercurrent of #MeToo at this year’s festival as the movement grows in France, Fargeat hopes the film will shine even more light on the issue. “It’s a little stone in the huge wall we still have to build regarding this issue, and to be honest, I hope my film will also be one of the stones of that wall. That’s really what I intended to do with it.”

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