snark sailboat rigging

Ian Schaefer

some things

Super Snark Sailboat

I just bought this sailboat, an 11′ Super Snark. I’ve wanted to learn to sail for a few years—this seemed like the perfect sailboat with which to start. It is purportedly unsinkable and very stable. The ABS clad EPS foam hull certainly seems very durable and indeed, could not possibly sink even if completely swamped.

I had it out for the first time this weekend and had a fantastic time. This was my very first time sailing, but I found the boat quite easy to handle – the basic sailing instructions I’ve read were enough to get me underway with this small sailboat. With a little ‘effort’ I was even able to capsize the Super Snark and shortly thereafter learn how easy it is to right this boat. I’ll save the details of that story for another time.

After the first trip out I realized that all the wood parts – rudder, tiller, keel, transom – needed some attention. The marine plywood rudder was delaminating, and though it would be simple to cut a new one, I thought it might be worthwhile to repair it. After gluing and clamping the rudder in several places, I sanded and varnished all of the wood parts.

I also plan on painting the outside of the hull – navy blue. I’ll keep the white gunwhale and medium blue bumper as is. This motif should work nicely with then existing blue-white-blue-white striped sail and equally well with an Egyptian cotton colored sail I’d like to have.

Super Snark Links

• CastleCraft Repair Tips for Snark Sailboats
• CastleCraft Super Snark Sailboat Parts
• Snark Sailboats Group on Yahoo! – Membership required
• How to Sail a Boat – wikiHow [This article is short and to the point. I think it’s worth a read if you are new to sailing.]
• Grog’s Boating Knots Index [Note: start with the figure eight and bowline knots.]

Want a New Snark Sailboat?

I was surprised to learn that Snark sailboats are still being made – not only the Super Snark, but also the Sea Skimmer, Sunflower, and others. If you don’t have the time or inclination to repair an older boat, a shiny new Snark is still a relatively affordable way to start sailing. Here are a few links to the best prices available through Amazon.

Rigging the Super Snark

More Snark Upgrades

Splash Deck – I am planning to sail in the bay at Stone Harbor, New Jersey in late September. It can get choppy there – and while the summer boat traffic will have diminished I have yet to deal with the wake of a decent sized powerboat. The splash deck covers the area of the otherwise open hull from the mast step forward to the bow, shedding water the boat might take on from chop and wake. Coming over the bow. I am nearing completion of a wooden splash deck and I am excited about my design and the results. I will post photos and detail soon. Boom Vang – Provide downward tension on the boom for better sail shape and to minimize ‘bounce’. Use the free end of the halyard through the gooseneck of the boom and back to the cleat.

Traveller – create a bridle using a short length of line between the two screw eyes on the inside of the transom, leaving enough slack in the line to come up and over the tiller with clearance. Thread a small block on the bridle before fastening the line on the eyes. Then the tack end of the main sheet is secured to the dead eye of the block allowing the tack to travel along the bridle.

Tiller Tamer – Loop a short bungee cord around the tiller and connect to the screw eyes on the inside of the transom. This should exert just enoungh tension on the tiller to bring the rudder back to center when the tiller is released.

Daggerboard Retainer – attach on or two screw eyes into a small plywood plate on the stern end of the daggerboard trunk. From these eyes, run a bungee cord around the aft edge of the daggerboard. Pulling on the bungee allows the daggerboard to be raised or lowered – releasing it should hold the board in any vertical position.

Kickup Rudder – Design and make a two-piece rudder to replace the old one-piece rudder, allowing for easy beaching of the sailboat.

82 thoughts on “Super Snark Sailboat”

I just bought my first sailboat, a 1972 Sea Snark. It has the ABS coating but is bubbling and cut in places. Is this something I will need to replace and cover with fiberglass or is there and easier way to eliminate the bubbling and fix the small cuts everywhere. Not opposed to the fiberglass and it will have a great finish – just don’t have any clue what it’d be doing. Doesn’t look terribly hard to do though. Thank you for any help.

P.S. This is a great forum, thank you very much for creating it. Lots of great help, ideas and information.

Am I the only person in the world to own Snark Mayflower??? Mine needs some minor hull repairs, but its a wonderful boat. I am “older” and cannot handle the heavier boats, so this boat is great for me. I am wondering if anyone has made a pvc trolley for a 90# (without rigging) boat? I am thinking something with a sling in the rear? I plan to use larger all plasitc wheels, but the design is making me nuts. In the past have used a prebuilt hand cart with wood handle extensions, but now I want the stern at the rear of the trolley and that is the problem….suggestions? Also, when you painted did you remove the rubrail and what was that like???

I Love this site! Thanks!

Marci, not sure if you are still out there, but my dad is trying to repair the hull on our Mayflower, which we’ve been sailing on a small pond for years. He is 86 now. Years ago it smashed against a tree (the wind picked it up) and snapped in half. He repaired it at the time, but over the years it has taken on water, with a particular crack around the centerboard well. This summer he removed part of the skin and patched some of the holes in the foam with sections he created from an old styrofoam beach board. He also plans to build up the well internally. Not sure when he’ll be able to finish. I miss it dearly! I’ve tried buying a new hull for him in the past but could never find any for sale.Happy sails to you.

I can’t help you, except to say that, yes, someone else once owned and enjoyed the Snark Mayflower from 1974-1978. I used to carry it on my back over the rocks at Folly Cove on Cape Ann, Massachusetts each time we wanted to sail. My wife is writing a memoir of an one hour Gilligan’s Island sail that four of us took across Ipswich Bay in gentle swells . By the time we reached Plum Island seven hours later, they had turned into 10 foot breakers. Yes, a wonderful boat, so sturdy for being only a piece of foam and plastic. I found your post because my wife didn’t believe it was called a Mayflower, and I had began to believe our little Mayflower never existed. Do you have any pix? Love to see one again.

I just acquired an old super snark – no sail, rudder or daggerboard. I got it to learn to sail. I had read that this was the way to go and I thought I got a great deal – $40. However, I am now concerned – the thing is a lot more than 50 lbs. it took my husband and I a lot of effort to lift and slide into our van. Someone suggested water issues? Could there be a heavier model out there?. This has some kind of coating over the styrofoam. any thoughts to help me figure out whether to invest more money into parts.

Today, I went to the beach front with my kids. I found a sea shell and gave it to my 4 year old daughter and said “You can hear the ocean if you put this to your ear.” She placed the shell to her ear and screamed. There was a hermit crab inside and it pinched her ear. She never wants to go back! LoL I know this is entirely off topic but I had to tell someone!

My web blog: Golf Star Hack Download ( Irwin )

Peter, there are some photos of the Snark Mayflower here. I am a writing coach—you can find me at my writing coach dot net if your wife needs any help with her memoir! We are not far from Plum Island and would love to hear the tale. http://photobucket.com/images/snark%20mayflower?page=1

Dear all, how nice to found you all in the www. My Sunflower hull is delaminating arround the dagger board. Does someone have ideas and experiance in how to fix this? Thank you so much. Daniela Is there a overview of serial-numbers available, that will tell the year of manufacture?

Last fall I saw a Sea Snark at a thrift shop and got it for $65. A small hole in the sail but serviceable. A busy spring / summer but finally got my chance to sail two days ago. Wow what a rush. I went out in 3 mile/hour wind and gradually increasing to 5. The wind was was fluky and changing direction and after 2 1/2 hours this old guy at 69 was bushed. Looking at videos and instructions for rigging the main sheet I could see many versions. I saw one photo with a traveller. I wondered about needing a hiking strap but wondered if the hull might crack in half. Reading here about a bow splash. My idea is to keep the boat light so I will not add anything slick to the styrofoam. I think I should graduate to a bigger boat for such niceties. Going sailing alone on this craft is the way to go and encourage others to club for racing. This Sea Snark and some lawn mower racing. Retirement is great. Thanks to all to you who have suggested repairs and improvements to this newbie.

Wow…happened to come across this site and am glad to have found it. I purchased a Snark back in 1972. It had been stored in my parent’s garage and now that I have a cottage on a lake, I am going to restore it. I need to replace the sail for mice have wrecked havoc to the old one. In 1972, I fiber-glassed the bottom and that needs to be repainted, will decide on a color once I decide on he sail. I need to do a little repair for a mouse nest in the bottom had caused some damage. I think I have all the parts. I am looking forward to reading the rest of the thread. Hard to believe it has been 42 years…

Snagged an older Snark from neighborhood group site (!) and been out three times so far – is great!

Two questions:

1) I want to fortify hull – Snark people suggested using 2 part epoxy, but NOT marine grade (will melt the styrofoam) – any suggestions on a decent, but reasonable option and how much it takes to do the whole hull?

2) The third time we went out, my son and I were going pretty fast but maybe because we were causing a bit of waves (?) the boat suddenly filled with water – less than a minute. Yikes! I had to bail like a madwoman (once the water is higher than the centerboard hole it is pretty hard!!). I need to make a splash guard – can you post a pic of the one you made? So many thanks!!

What do you do when you’re on the water, swilling and you need to put the sail down? I have a super Snark. The sail does not come down at all and in very windy conditions, this could be dangerous.

I am coming late to the party here, but just retired and am determined to get my “freebie” 1969(?) Mayflower in the water. I had to buy a new sail for it because the one on it was roached. Is there somewhere I can see a diagram to show this newbie how to properly rig this little boat? Thanks in advance!

I have found an excellent repair for styrofoam to the plastic hull. I fixed the centerboard trunk works excellent. It’s called 5200 from 3M, very messy but works great an won’t harm styrofoam. I got it at Home Depot, an it’s not cheap. $14.00 a tube.

I have a 11′ Snark Sunflower in my garage (it was left by the home’s previous owner). It looks in great shape, as if it rarely saw the water! If anyone has an interest in purchasing, please contact me. I’d be happy to send pictures to anyone interested. Alan 215.630.9508 Newtown, Pa

The sail should come down by loosening the halyard. Here is a video on proper assembly and you will see how the halyard line is used to raise and lower the sail: http://www.sailboatstogo.com/content/Super_Snark_Sailboat_Delivery_Assembly_and_Rigging

Super Snarks are being sold on SailboatsToGo.com here; http://www.sailboatstogo.com/content/Snark_Super_Snark_Sunflower__Sailboats

Here is a new video of my granddaughter sailing a Super Snark: https://youtu.be/JMfLjxqQTeg

This page has links to 3 videos of the larger Snark, the Sunchaser. http://www.sailboatstogo.com/content/Sunchaser_I_Snark

This page has the history of the brand: http://www.sailboatstogo.com/content/Snark_History

This gadget makes the mast taller so you get more headroom under the boom: http://www.sailboatstogo.com/catalog/PARTS/5211

I have a super snark. we stored it in a storage unit for a number of years. but my dad back in the 80s took 4 inch PVC and put two screw fittings on the ends and created a tube to protect the sail during transport and storage.

Hey! I just got a Snark Sea Skimmer off of craigslist for just a few dollars. The Hull is in pretty bad shape (lots of duct tape patches) and the deck has some cracking i’m sure from age. It is in one piece tho and all of the pieces parts are there. Any suggestions on where i should get started on repairing the Hull? Products, techniques?

Hello, I also just purchased a Super Snark and have repaired the hull, a few dents and cracks with PC-11. Going to sand it a bit and then paint it. The original color is red but I may want to change it. Just wondering how the Krylon Fusion paint held up. I also think the Navy blue would be beautiful! Enjoying learning from fellow sailors! Thanks

Hey all –

I just did a Super Snark restoration in August and September. There is a yahoo user’s group for Snark sailboat owners which is active and helpful.

I have a photo album there showing my restoration from a hull that sat in the weeds for years to a fun and portable sailboat. Good luck!

I used Krylon fusion on my Snark and it worked great!

Hey I was wondering all the dimensions of the Rudder and dragger Board? I received a super snark in excellent condition for free. it just doesn’t have mast sail dragger board or rudder and I plan on making most of it my self any help or suggestions will be appreciated! New to sailing so be easy on me! Thanks again! Devin

I’m about to buy a very old snark, the unclad Kool cigarette version. Has anyone had any problems with these, as far as the hull breaking or getting waterlogged, etc.? Thanks!

Does anyone know what happen to the Snark Sailboat Owners Yahoo Group? I just bought a Sunflower. I have joined, but being a restricted group, its been more than a week and I have not heard back. I also tried to go to the group website and it is not working. (www.wisdomsecurity.com). What I wanted to know is: Has anyone set up a jib on a Sunflower? How did it work? How it was done? Thanks.

I have a 1972 Kool Snark. Smoked Kools to have required cartons and $99.00 to buy it. We did an amateur fiberglass job on it in 1972 but it has served the family well on lake and beach adventures. Would like to sell it. Any takers?Contact cbrittain47 @carolina.rr.com

What a treasure trove of information!

First of all, if anyone knows of a Snark Mayflower for sale in the eastern half of the US, please contact me. I will come and buy it.

Second, yes, the Snark Mayflower did exist. They discontinued them in…maybe 1979? Or in the 1980s?

My Uncle bought one in the late 1970s and had it at his lake cabin in Minnesota. I learned to sail on it in the late 1980s. I sailed it off and on for years when I was up there in the summer. It was a wonderful boat, simple to sail, and basically impossible to capsize. I sailed it one time for the first time in like 10 years in 2011. I have a blog post about it here: http://craigsteffen.net/blog/2011/07/2011_07_18_23_21_50_A.php Not a year after that, possibly that summer, it was apparently beyond repair and my uncle cut it up and threw it away.

The Mayflower hull (and some of the other Snark boats too) is a styrafoam core with a plastic outer shell. Having talked to people, apparently it’s generally fine if you keep it indoors when it’s not on the water. If you leave it outside all the time, however, the plastic will eventually develop cracks and let water in. My uncle had repaired it with fiberglass several times but finally just couldn’t keep up with it. When it cut it apart water poured out of the voids in the hull.

There is, by the by, a supplier in Europe that sells them. The Snark supplier in the US says that they will not ship them to the US, and the company is uninterested in resurrecting the design.

I would love to make one myself. There are drawings around. I could almost do it with photos and dimensions memory. I think cutting the shape out of styrafoam wouldn’t be too terribly hard; I’d then have to figure out how to make the hard outer shell. Fiberglass? Maybe carbon fiber is cheap enough nowadays?

If you’re looking for information on it, here’s a great resource: http://www.castlecraft.com/snark_assembly.htm It’s a collection of Snark product assembly manuals. It includes discontinued products like the Mayflower: http://www.castlecraft.com/PDF/Snark-Mayflower-Manual.pdf

Craig Steffen [email protected] 217-979-2392

I have a 1972 Sea Snark for sale. It’s in great condition & only used 4 times since refiberglassed. It’s to heavy for top of my new car

Just acquired a snark mayflower for 40 bucks. Out of the shark models, I have struggles to find much for any info on the mayflower specifically…anyone else own one?? The ABS had gouges and cracks that we have been working to repair. Where the rubber molding strip attaches, there is silicone or similar product that was used to seal the seam and it’s a real bear to remove. Anyone have any suggestions on what we can use to make it easier that will be safe to the foam and ABS? Think we could just cut a 2in strip off all the way around on both the inside and outside ABS peices and use fiberglass cloth or something to replace that area? I appreciate any input. Thanks.

Anyone tried fitting a 55 f sail (with adj to mast etc) to the supersnark? Any info on this? Stability?

Hi John G – I was wondering the same thing! I’ve just come upon one of the ABS-clad supersnarks and was curious about sail surface area upgrades. Are you still around, and did you try anything with any success?

I just purchased a 1989 super snark and am painting and restoring. Bought a beautiful new sail from sailboatstogo. will sail and post pics next week when I can figure out how to post them

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I have a 1976 Snark built for Sears. The boat is in great shape. I am missing the mast and some rigging instructions. The boom has a fork at the front with a single eye through bolt i presume is for either the downhaul hook on the mainsail or, a location to secure the front of the boom to the mast. It has an fairlead eye about two feet back which I beleiev is for a vang to the foot of the mast which has a ring with a tab through which an s hook would fit. I need some help on the mast length. The pocket luff of the main is 162" (13' 1/2"). I dont know how much mast is necessary below this point. Any assitance is appriciated.  

Attachments

I know it might sound crazy but check sears parts. They have the different snarks listed. Maybe they still have parts.  

They have some but not all. My issue at this time (I can buy 20' lengths of T6 aluminum at the proper diameter) I just need the specifics on the rigging.  

I googled "snark sailboat" and found a ton of resources. Pictures, manufacturers, dealers and parts sources. Since it's latteen rigged, you just need a pole that will fit into the mounting hole and is high enough to hold the boom/gaff rig. It can't be any simpler.  

I owner one in 1970. I remembe the mast being about 6 1/2 feet tall. Bob  

Snark Parts The first sailboat I purchased was a 1976 Snark Mach II. Got it from new from Sears like you say. When I turtled and lost the mast (long story and the first of many lessons learned about sailing) I bought a mast from a guy who was parting out his sunfish. Used that until the late 80's. My Mach II was a bit bigger than yours so maybe a mini-fish might be a more appropriate source. And definately try Sears. I had a 1971 Ted Williams (Sears) outboard that needed a magneto. Turns out it is a Tecumsah engine and parts are standard. Good Luck. DH  

This Snark was called a Fireflower and was not a lateen rig but a single mainsail (sleeved) with a forked nose boom. It appears that the boom is rigged for a vang ( a simple 1:1 with a bullseye fairlead on the boom, down to a tang on the mast foot, back to a cleat on the boom behind the fairlead.). The luff in the sail is 182" so my problem is I dont know how much "more" mast I need. I think the downhaul will be a simple single line using a fairlead mounted on one side of the mast, up through the tack and back down to a jam cleat on the other side of the mast. Its hard to find detail pictures of any mast rigged like this for comparison.  

Try this link: http://www.sailritesails.com/ShowAd.aspx?id=4403&SourceID= 0 &BoatName=FIREFLOWER  

Does anyone know ifthe swivle bracket at the base of the mast pocket is for a vang or a retainer for the DB?  

Try this link: http://www.castlecraft.org/sailboats.htm Then go to this one and check out the pic on page 5: http://www.castlecraft.org/PDF/Snark Sailboat Brochure.pdf Looks like your boat is a Sunchaser II although there doesn't seem to be a difference in hulls between the I & II.  

Then try here: http://www.castlecraft.org/sunchaser_two_parts.htm  

Bill Murray

Join this group ( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/snarksailboat/ ) and get lots of info -- including how the rig works. Mine had a short mast PLUS a modified "lateen" rig - sort of. The sail had a boom and a two part "mast" that telescoped inside a sleeve sewn into the luff of the sail. When you raised the halyard it caused the tescoping "mast" to extend until the sail was taught and vertical. Sounds weird but it was simple and worked pretty well.  

Twice Around

Do you need a vang on this boat? It might be a mast retainer so if you flip over the rig won't fall out.  

Twice Around said: Do you need a vang on this boat? It might be a mast retainer so if you flip over the rig won't fall out. Click to expand

my snark has a latin rig, and two ropes, one holds the mast down and acts as a down haul and come from the boom to a cleat rigth next to the hole in the woden board where the mast is set , the other one is the main sheet, it goes from the boom to your hand!  

Not a lateen rig My Snark has a sleeved mainsail. It does have the cleat on top of the board that makes up the mast step. I assume this was for either downhaul or to secure the mast.  

The fairlead I am seeing is almost over the top of the dagger board slot, probably to far aft for a vang of any type...correct?  

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• Sailboat Guide

Sea Snark (Super Snark)

Sea Snark (Super Snark) is a 10 ′ 11 ″ / 3.4 m monohull sailboat built by Snark Sailboats (Meyers Boat Co.), Cleatline Boats, and CastleCraft starting in 1958.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Early SNARKs were one of the most popular sailing boats ever. This is partly due to the fact that they could be purchased with ‘product coupons’. For example, a large number of Kool cigarette coupons could be redeemed for a SNARK with the Kool logo on the sail. It was also possible to purchase a SNARK with the KOOL logo (without smoking a single cigarette) for $99. The Kool ad campaign reportedly received 18000 SEA SNARK orders in 1971 alone! Most later SNARK’s are made of styrofoam with an outer layer of ABS for improved durability. (Although the boats that were part of ad campaigns were usually built of styrofoam without the ABS shell.)

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The 7 Best Perch Rigs (Rigging & Fishing Guide)

UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2023

by Robert Ceran

While small perch are usually easy to catch (and abundant in most lakes), bigger perch over 1 to 2 pounds are much harder to target, and require more skill from the angler. 

But no matter if you want to catch your limit of panfish-sized perch, or if you want to hook a trophy perch or two, it’s essential to know what rigs to use for perch fishing, in order to improve your chances of success.

Table of Contents

Here I’ll cover the best perch rigs that you need to know. I’ll also discuss how to tie each of them, how to use them, and what purpose each of them is ideally suited for.

How do you rig for perch fishing?

The best perch fishing rigs are:

Slip bobber rig

• Drop shot rig

Carolina rig

Perch pounder rig.

Each of these perch rigs comes with its own set of strengths and weaknesses, and we’ll walk you through each of them below.

We’ll also give you a recommendation on what these perch fishing setups are best suited for, so you can decide which rig is best for you.

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This is by far the easiest perch rig to tie, and is usually worth trying out first, since it allows you to get a sense of what the fish are keyed into before you try more complex perch fishing setups.

How to tie it : If you’re using fluorocarbon or monofilament as your main line, you don’t need to tie a leader, and can just tie your main line directly to a 1/8 to 1/4 oz jig head (either plain metal, or a colored jig head is fine).

But if you’re using braid as your main line, you’ll need to tie a 2 foot long 6 to 8 lb test fluorocarbon leader. 

Berkley Power Minnow

My favorite soft plastic bait for perch, pre-rigged onto a jig head (2″ size is ideal for perch).

After tying the jig head to your line, thread on a soft plastic lure, such as a grub tail or paddle tail swimbait. Personally, I like to use Berkley power minnows with this rig, since they have the perfect action.

Another great thing about this perch fishing setup is that you can easily switch out the soft plastic lure to test different shapes, sizes, and colors. 

How to use it : As with all yellow perch rigs, you should aim to keep them very close to the bottom during retrieval.

So after casting your jig with a jigging rod , wait for it to reach the bottom before you start retrieving it, and regularly pause during retrieval to let it sink back to the bottom.

Experiment with different retrieval speeds and cadences, until you find something that triggers bites. 

When to use it : The jig rig is a great search bait, which you can use to cover a lot of water in search of feeding perch.

It’s also a great option if you’re not getting any bites on a live bait rig, or if you’re not sure if there are any fish around.

Keep on moving around until your find a school of fish, and then experiment with different baits and presentation techniques. 

This is one of the best perch rigs for live bait , and also one of the best setups to use from shore. I like to set up a deadstick with a  slip bobber rig, while casting a lure with my active rod.

How to tie it : It’s best to start by threading a bobber stopper onto your line, followed by a plastic bead (which prevents the bobber stop from getting stuck inside the bobber), and then the slip bobber.

Since perch don’t respond well to a lot of resistance when they take a bait, it’s best to use a relatively thin finesse bobber when fishing for perch.

Underneath the bobber, pinch on some split shot weights to stop the bobber from sliding down all the way, and then tie the line to a swivel.

Finally, tie a 6 to 8 lb test fluorocarbon leader to the swivel, and a size 2 to 4 bait hook (or micro jig head) to the other end of the leader.

How to use it : When using the slip bobber rig, it’s important to adjust your depth setting to about 6 inches above the bottom, since this is the primary strike zone for perch.

Once you’ve determined the right depth, bait the hook with a minnow or a worm, cast out your perch live bait rig, and wait for bites.

When to use it : This perch float rig is a great option to use from shore, since you can cast it out and wait for fish to pass by and take your bait.

You can also use this perch bait rig from a boat, but keep in mind that if you’re drifting, the depth of the bottom will tend to change all the time, which makes it harder to keep your bait presentation close to the bottom.

Drop shot rig for perch

The drop shot rig was originally developed as a finesse rig for bass, but has now become one of the most popular perch rigs, since it provides anglers with an amazingly sensitive and lightweight presentation that targets exactly the right depth of the water column.

How to tie it : Start by tying a size 2 to 6 drop shot hook to your line ( here’s a great video tutorial on how to do that). Next, clip on a 1/4 to 1/8 oz drop shot weight to the line underneath the hook, and then add a soft plastic bait to the hook, as shown in the image above.

One of the advantages of this perch rig setup is that you can adjust the position of the weight on the line, which allows you to easily change the depth of your bait presentation.

How to use it : Cast out your rig, and wait for the weight to sink to the bottom. Then use subtle movements of your rod tip to twitch the lure without actually lifting the weight off the bottom.

Do this for a couple of minutes in each spot before reeling in a few feet of line and repeating the process. 

When to use it : The drop shot rig is great when you’ve found a location with lots of fish, since it allows you to fish in one spot until you get a bite, without having to continuously retrieve the lure.

It’s also great because you can key in on a very specific depth where perch are active. 

While the ned rig superficially resembles the jig rig, it has a different and very characteristic action in the water, which makes it highly effective for catching perch.

How to tie it : Tie this perch rig the same way that you would tie a jig rig, but using a mushroom jig head instead of a regular round jig head.

Also, when choosing a soft plastic bait to use with the ned rig, it’s essential to choose one that is specifically designed for ned rigging, and that floats in the water. 

How to use it : Cast out the ned rig, and retrieve it slowly, pausing for a few seconds every time the ned rig reaches the bottom.

The distinguishing feature of the this yellow perch fishing rig is that the combination of using a mushroom jig head with a floating plastic bait results in its tail standing up straight every time you let the ned rig sink to the bottom.

Perch seem to find this action irresistible, and you’ll often experience getting bites when your jig is sitting on the bottom. 

When to use it : You can use this perch rig as a search bait setup, or you can use it on finicky fish that don’t respond to other presentations. It’s especially effective when the perch are pressured, and if they’re not used to seeing a ned rig.

The Carolina rig is one of the most versatile bottom fishing rigs in the world, and works well for a variety of species, including perch.

How to tie it : Thread a bullet sinker onto your main line, followed by a plastic bead, and then tie your line to a swivel. The plastic bead prevents the weight from getting stuck on the swivel, or damaging the knot.

Next, tie on a 1 to 2 foot fluoro leader, and they tie that to a size 2 to 4 worm hook , which is designed for weedless rigging of a soft plastic bait. You can choose from a wide variety of soft plastics, including minnow, shad or worm imitations. 

How to use it : Cast this perch rig setup out and wait for the weight to reach the bottom. Then give it another 10 to 20 seconds before reeling in a couple of feet, and pausing again.

Every time you pause this perch rig, the plastic bait (which doesn’t have any weight except the hook) sinks slowly down towards the bottom, and this is usually what triggers bites.

Perch bites on the Carolina rig can be quite subtle, so you really need to pay attention to soft taps or tugs. If you do feel a bite, reel in until you feel resistance, and then set the hook.

Braided line is the best choice as your main line for this perch rig, since it provides the most sensitivity in terms of being able to feel what’s going on with your hook and sinker.

When to use it : the Carolina rig is a great option for fishing from shore or from boat, and I like to use it when yellow perch aren’t responding to other presentations, since this rig can trigger bites from finicky pressured perch.

The perch pounder rig is ideal for vertical fishing from a boat, and works best in relatively deep water.

How to tie it : Use one piece of leader line to tie the entire rig. Since you don’t want the side arms of this perch rig to constantly get tangled up with the main line, it’s best to use a relatively heavy fluorocarbon line of about 15 to 20 lb test, which is quite stiff. 

Tie a loop in the leader line by folding a loop back on itself and then tying several overhand knots.

After pulling this tight, cut one of the arms of the loop, which results in a straight piece of line sticking out from the leader.

Thread one or two beads onto this line, and then tie on a size 4 to 8 bait hook. 

Next, repeat this process by tying a second loop about 8 inches below the first loop, and also add beads and a bait hook to this one.

Then cut off the leader line about 12 inches below the second hook, and tie it to a heavy 1 oz sinker.

In the last step, cut off the leader above the top hook, and tie it to a swivel, which you can use to tie it to your main line.

How to use it : The best way to use this perch rig is for vertical fishing from a boat in deep water of 50 feet or more, and it is one of the best rigs to target big perch in this kind of setting.

Bait the two hooks with live minnows (which is why this perch rig is also known as the ‘double minnow rig’), and lower the rig down to the bottom from your boat.

When you find a big school of yellow perch, it’s not uncommon to get double hook ups with this perch rig. 

When to use it : The perch pounder rig was originally developed for catching perch in deep water in the great lakes, where conventional setups don’t work so well.

However, it works just as well in any lakes that have deep water where big schools of perch like to hold, and since it’s designed for vertical fishing, it makes a great ice fishing rig for perch as well.

What is the best perch rig?

The best perch rig is the drop shot rig, since it is an ideal all-around setup for targeting perch with a lightweight lure or bait presentation close to the bottom.

Unlike bass, perch tend to require more finesse (especially in pressured lakes), which explains why the drop shot rig is so effective for catching them.

Another advantage of using a drop shot setup is that you can use this rig for both vertical fishing from a boat, or for casting from shore. 

With that being said, each of the perch rigs discussed above can be the best option to use in some circumstances. Also, keep in mind that the simplest rigs are the jig rig and the Ned rig, which are therefore great options to use as search baits to find schools of fish.

Once you find a good spot with a school of perch, you should then go on to experiment with the other perch rig setups, in order to find what rig works best for you.

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SHOP NOW:    SUPER/SEA SNARK SAILS         SUNFLOWER SAILS       NEIL PRYDE DACRON       WHITE DACRON

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SailboatsToGo offers our own nylon sails, original Snark nylon sails, Sailmaker Neil Pryde dacron sails, white dacron sails, and sails for the Snark Sea Skimmer and Sea Devil. 

Satisfaction guaranteed! Our nylon  sails are very well made durable nylon sails that will fit Super Snark, Sea Snark, Sears Whirlwind, Spring Creek, SailboatsToGo (that's us!),  Paddle ski,  Sea Eagle, and  SOAR .  Our  Snark Sailboat sail is 45 square feet, nylon.  It will fit your Sea Snark or Super Snark just like the original.   A great many Snark owners have bought these from us, we receive many messages from satisfied customers ( see Messages from Customers section below ) and we have never had a single one ask for a refund, but if you're not happy with it, you can be the first!  We also carry original equipment Snark brand nylon sails.  Usually arrives in less than a week.  Very low shipping cost.

Our white dacron and Sailmaker Neil Pryde International dacron sails are more durable and hold their shape better (stretches much less) than nylon in strong winds, which will give you better upwind performance.

These are all true, aerodynamic, shaped sails, which means they are cut and sewn to have the necessary camber (3-dimensional curvature) for creating aerodynamic lift.  They have sleeves for the boom and gaff and cutouts in the right places for tieing on the sheet and halyard and for the mast ring.   

These sails are used on canoes, ice boats, inflatable boats, kayaks and dinghies, in addition to Snark styrofoam boats

All major credit cards and paypal accepted. Address paypal payments & emails to [email protected] .  

Colors and Sizes and Types

Colors:  14 different sail color schemes!    Custom Graphics:   Add your logo to your sail.  $18 per square foot of logo $25 . Email us.  

Sizes :  The 45 square foot ("SF") sails fit Sea Snarks and Super Snarks and some older Sunflowers.  Also the Sears Whirlwind. All Sunflowers built after 1983 (and some older Sunflowers) take the 55 SF sail (scroll farther down this page for 55 SF sail offerings).   Some pre-1983 Sunflowers take the 45 and some take the 55, so that's where we have to take size identification to the next level.   Click Here

We have nylon sails below and we have dacron sails, farther down the page. Dacron is a premium-grade material that is stiffer and less stretchy, so the sail holds its intended shape better, even in strong winds and after years of service.   Within the Dacron category, we have a generic white sail, and we have name-brand Neil Pryde sails in various color schemes.  The Neil Pryde sails have premium-quality workmanship, such as heavier stitching and heavier reinforcement at stress points.

SUPER SNARK and SEA SNARK SAILS (45 square foot)  (also fit Sailboats To Go and Whirlwind)

SUNFLOWER 3.3 SAILS (55 square foot)  (Also Fits SailboatsToGo)

Do not assume all sunflowers take a 55 sf sail   explanation  .

NEIL PRYDE INTERNATIONAL DACRON SAILS (45 SQ FT and 55 SQ FT) 

Dacron (polyester) is a stiffer, less stretchy material than nylon.  A Dacron sail will hold its shape and not stretch out in strong winds.  It's also a heavier material and therefore stronger, as compared to nylon.   Neil Pryde is a widely-respected sail maker, known for quality workmanship.  You will be impressed with the extra heavy stitching on these sails, done with the greatest attention to detail.  Shipping cost will show up in your cart.  It's not much (around $10).   For an additional choice in a 45 SF colored Dacron sail see the Blue/White/Yellow OEM Snark Sail above.

WHITE DACRON SAILS (45 and 55 square foot)

This is a house brand sail (not Neil Pryde) but still very good quality.  As compared to nylon, dacron (polyester) is a stiffer, less stretchy material so the sail will hold its shape and not belly out in strong winds.  More Pictures and info click here .

66 SQUARE FOOT NYLON SAIL.

The 66 square foot sail is both longer and taller on the spars. Spar extensions are needed for both the boom and top spar.  If you already have spars for our 55 square foot sail, you will only need one spar extension:  $20 each.  If you have OEM Sunflower spars, you'll have to devise an extension for the boom.   This link if for extending the boom on SailboatsToGo spars:     Add Spar Extension to Cart  .   

BATWING SAIL

NOT AVAILABLE (AS OF jULY 2024)

High tech modern design Batwing Sail. Great upwind performance in strong winds.  Reefable by means of zippers.  This is the modern Batwing sail from Balogh Sail Designs and includes a Free mast step that will adapt it to any of our rigs (not Snarks). Includes mast, boom, mast step, sail and rigging.  Available as an upgrade with our Canoe, Kayak, and Dinghy sailkits. (Click the "Upgrades and Options" link within any of those departments)

SEA SKIMMER SAILS

SNARK MAYFLOWER, SUNCHASER I AND SUNCHASER II SAILS

WE CAN ALSO GET SNARK WILDFLOWER SAILS AND PARTS.   EMAIL OR CALL!

Other items of interest to Snark owners

Spar Set and Mast :  Our unique folding design makes these low shipping costs possible for mast and spar set.  If you go elsewhere, ask about their shipping cost before you order!   (You'll be shocked.)  

Spar Set  The two poles that go in the sail sleeves and the ring that accepts the mast. More Info

Mast: More Info

Stabilizer Pontoons prevent capsizing:   More Info

Alternatives to Styrofoam Sailing:  When the rest of your Snark wears out, or even before that, if you want a sailboat that is dryer, more comfortable (back support!) and more portable, check out our inflatable sailboats and canoe sail rigs.  You can use your Snark sail and spars and save!   Click Here For More Information.

Messages from Customers

"Thanks so much for sending the sail out so promptly.  It arrived yesterday.  It's all set up in the backyard right now for my son to see for his birthday present!  It was a pleasure doing business with you."   --   Robyn M.

"Love doing business with your company.  I'm telling all my friends to buy sails from SailboatsToGo!" -- Joe L. 

"...went out yesterday with my daughter. We had a wonderful time and everyone commented on the beauty of the sail. Thanks for your prompt response.  I am very pleased with your sail and service and will recommend you." -- Mark Y.

"The new sail seems to be superior to the old Snark original in both material choice and construction."    Martin M.

"We received the sail for the Snark Sunflower on Wednesday.   Thank you for your prompt replies and shipment of the sail. We installed the sail and took it out last night.  It fit well, and worked well also. My son and I are very pleased with the sail and again thank you for the great response to my inquiries.  This has enabled my son to enjoy the sailboat a few days before he leaves home for 2 months.  I will happily recommend your business to anyone who needs sails and related items. Thank you very much!"  Tom and Seth B.   June 2011

"Hi, Jim - Just a note to let you know I just spent a very enjoyable weekend sailing our Super Snark with the new spar set we ordered earlier this month. Set up went very smoothly, thanks to the excellent set of instructions you supplied. The pictures were especially helpful. I found your spar set to be far superior to the original tubing and fittings that were on our Snark. That mast slide sure instills confidence compared to the flimsly fitting on the original. I hope to enjoy sailing on our pond here on Cape Cod as long as the weather holds up. Thanks again for your prompt service and excellent product." -  Chris

Want more? Read our Ebay Feedback and see how pleased people are with our products and service.  (Our prices here are generally lower than on Ebay, so come back here to make your purchase.)

Use Our Sails in Do-It-Yourself Sailboat Projects

This Snark sail is also a good choice for do-it-yourself sailboat projects, such as ice boats, converting a dinghly you already own, or putting a sail on your canoe or inflatable.   Click on the "Products" link at the top of this page and then on "Plans" to buy plans for canoe sail rig or inflatable sailboat rig that would utilize this sail (although the plans also tell you how to make your own sail if you prefer).  

Interesting Facts About The Snark Sail Design

The Snark Sail is referred to as a "Lateen" style sail, which means the mast is short and the sail has another spar, called a gaff, which carries the peak of the sail up much higher than the top of the mast, with the gaff slightly angled so that the lower front corner of the sail is in front of the mast.   The Lateen style sail originated in ancient times and is still used all over the world on small boats, especially in India and the Arab world.  Those fishing and trading vessels often use rags and old grain sacks stitched together for sail cloth.  A Lateen sail can hold its own against a sloop rig of equal total sail area (sloop rigs have a jib and mainsail) in a race of otherwise equal boats and crews.  Don't believe what some say about jibs increasing the efficiency of the main.  Snark and SailboatsToGo and other users of the Lateen sail plan are continuing a long and proud tradition in sailing. 

Posted 2024-07-12 00:01

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Beneteau First 24 SE sailboat - $110,000

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Beneteau First 24 SE sailboat - boats - by owner - marine sale -...

Beneteau First 24 SE (2021) - Excellent and immaculate condition. Lightly used about 50 times - only in freshwater lakes. The sailboat, located in northern Idaho, USA, was custom ordered by me as...

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The Sunchaser I and the Sunchaser II share the same hull.  Sail rigs are interchangeable.

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