westerly 24 yacht review

GK 24 (WESTERLY) Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of GK 24 (WESTERLY). Built by Westerly Marine Construction Ltd. and designed by Jack Laurent Giles, the boat was first built in 1976. It has a hull type of Fin w/transom hung rudder and LOA is 7.32. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.28. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by 23 L, runs on undefined.

GK 24 (WESTERLY) has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about GK 24 (WESTERLY) and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the gk 24 (westerly).

GK 24 (WESTERLY) was designed by Jack Laurent Giles.

Who builds GK 24 (WESTERLY)?

GK 24 (WESTERLY) is built by Westerly Marine Construction Ltd..

When was GK 24 (WESTERLY) first built?

GK 24 (WESTERLY) was first built in 1976.

How long is GK 24 (WESTERLY)?

GK 24 (WESTERLY) is 5.97 m in length.

What is mast height on GK 24 (WESTERLY)?

GK 24 (WESTERLY) has a mast height of 7.92 m.

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• Sailboat Guide

Westerly GK 24

Westerly GK 24 is a 24 ′ 0 ″ / 7.3 m monohull sailboat designed by Jack Laurent Giles and built by Westerly Marine between 1976 and 1981.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Based on an IOR 1/4 ton racing design.

A shoal draft version draws 4.08’/1.46m

FRACTIONAL RIG: I: 28.06’/8.55m J: 8.38’/2.55m P: 31.00’/9.45m E: 10.00’/3.05m Tot. SA: 272.57 sq.ft./25.32m2

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Westerly Konsort: space, security & good performance

• David Harding
• January 23, 2024

One of the roomiest cruisers of her size, the Konsort is also known for her solidity, interior finish and easy manners. No wonder she’s such a popular second-hand buy, says David Harding

Despite being over-powered at times, the Konsort took the brisk conditions of our test in her stride. Credit: David Harding Credit: David Harding

Product Overview

Westerly konsort.

Back in the late 1970s or early 1980s, a family looking for a new cruising yacht of just under 30ft (9m) would have been almost spoiled for choice.

Britain’s ‘big three’ builders each offered an excellent boat: Westerly were flying high with the Konsort, Moody had replaced their 30 with a new 29, and Sadler’s 29 had plugged the gap between the 25 and 32.

With alternatives including such evergreens as the Mirage 28 and Cobra 850, there was something for everyone – whether they preferred fin or twin keels .

The most popular home-grown cruisers of the day gave people the choice but invariably sold in far greater numbers with twins.

Leading the way in the smaller size range was the ubiquitous 26ft Westerly Centaur, launched in 1969 and, after well over 2,000 boats, nearing the end of her production a decade later.

Treadmaster and non-slip paint provide the grip in the cockpit. Credit: David Harding

Come 1978, the next boats up in Westerly’s range were the 31-footers: the Renown, Pentland, Berwick and Longbow, between them offering a choice of sloop or ketch rig , twin or fin keels and aft or centre cockpits.

Like the Centaur, they sailed better than they looked but were discontinued shortly after the arrival of what was to be the last model from the drawing board of Westerly’s long-time designers, Laurent Giles.

The Westerly Konsort, introduced in 1979, was the 29-footer (8.8m) that had everything.

For a start she was enormously beamy, her 3.27m (10ft 9in) between the gunwales being 42% of her waterline length .

Together with the full bow, broad stern and plenty of freeboard, the beam gave her an interior volume that practically matched that of her 31ft sisters.

The other point about the interior was that it was nicely woody.

The Westerly Konsort was launched in 1979, and was designed by Laurent Giles. Credit: David Harding

Whereas the Centaur sometimes attracted criticism for her caravan- like styling and finish, the Westerly Konsort followed the approach developed in the 31s.

No interior mouldings were used and all the woodwork was bonded directly to the outer hull. It created the feel of a hand-crafted yacht – which she was.

No Westerly cruiser of this era was offered without twin keels – even the 36-footers.

If one model was available only with a fin, a hull-sister would have two keels and a different name (as in the case of the twin-keeled Centaur and her fin-keeled sibling, the Pembroke).

The Westerly Konsort came with a choice of fin or twin, called the Konsort either way and proving most popular in twin-keel form. A few were also built with swing keels.

While giving her more beam for her length than any earlier model, Laurent Giles made sure she was still unmistakably a Westerly, incorporating the distinctive knuckle in the bow shared by everything from the 21ft 6in Warwick up to the largest models in the range.

The hawse pipe – a Westerly tradition. Credit: David Harding

They did, however, fit her with a transom-hung rudder . A practical and economical solution, and one that maximised space in the cockpit, it wouldn’t have worked on the Centaur or the 31s because both were available as centre- cockpit or ketch-rigged variants.

Above the straight-topped coachroof sat a conventional masthead rig of modest proportions.

As was the norm in those days, the headsail provided the bulk of the sail area although the boom was long enough to allow the mainsheet to be taken – at an angle – to a traveller across the wide transom.

Other traditional Westerly features included the trademark blue non-slip deck paint and a toerail in teak rather than the aluminium favoured by some of the competition.

The Westerly Konsort was no beauty but she hit the spot and became an instant success.

A saloon of the Westerly Konsort is roomy for a boat of this size. Credit: David Harding

She was never a cheap boat and still isn’t by many standards, holding her value if well equipped and maintained.

If you buy a Westerly Konsort and look after her there’s a good chance you won’t lose any money.

She’s a boat that’s always likely to be sought after by people wanting something solid, roomy, forgiving and easy to handle, and that’s why she caught John King’s eye when he was looking for his first cruiser two years ago.

John’s alternatives were smaller boats, including the 23ft Westerly Pageant and the Centaur’s successor, the Griffon.

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However, the Konsort’s extra space, combined with her reputation for being undemanding, made him think that it would make more sense to buy the larger boat rather than to start with a smaller one that he might want to switch a year or two later.

He’s happy that he made the right decision. Sarnia is a twin-keeler built in 1983, and John reckons that a boat with full standing headroom, space to relax down below in comfort and enough size, weight and power to take most conditions in her stride makes for more relaxing sailing.

I joined John for a sail from his winter base in Chichester Harbour when a good 20 knots from the north east was kicking up a lumpy sea in Bracklesham Bay.

Downwind the Westerly Konsort proved why she has a reputation for being faster than she looks, rapidly sliding through the lee of a larger cruiser and soon leaving it well astern.

A roomy forecabin is one of the reasons the Westerly Konsort is so popular. Credit: David Harding

Once far enough from land to have space for an upwind leg, we sheeted in and headed into the breeze.

With John’s consent I opted to hold on to full sail to see how Sarnia handled. You learn more about a boat when pushing her beyond the comfort zone.

Besides, the Westerly Konsort has a reputation for being stiff, under- canvassed in light airs and able to carry full sail when others need to reef .

I was about to see whether asking her to carry it upwind with 25 knots over the deck was pushing things too far.

We took all the usual steps to de-power the rig as far as possible without reefing, including tensioning both mainsail and headsail halyards , moving the genoa cars aft, flattening the mainsail’s foot and dropping the traveller well down the track.

Sarnia responded by plugging upwind remarkably comfortably, clocking between 4 and 4.5 knots most of the time depending on the size and steepness of the waves.

It was a day when being slightly over-canvassed was a help, not just from the testing perspective but also to drive through the waves.

There’s nothing worse than being under-powered, bouncing up and down in the lulls and wishing for more sail.

The single, acrylic-fronted locker in the saloon later gave way to multiple lockers. Credit: David Harding

As ever when over-powered it was a matter of sailing along a fine line: a few degrees too deep and the boat would heel over before rounding up in protest, though not until the gunwale was nearly awash.

Sailed too high she would lose power and stop. In between she was quite happy, heeling no more than 15° or so and remaining nicely balanced with a beautifully light helm.

When she was pushed too hard, the weight on the tiller would increase progressively as the gunwale approached the water, giving ample warning before the rudder finally lost grip.

While reducing sail would have made life easier in some respects, this was a good test and one that proved her tolerance and capability.

For a chunky twin-keeler with a three-bladed fixed propeller it was a more-than-creditable performance.

Work space in the galley on the Westerly Konsort is limited. Credit: David Harding

Having to power through the waves took a few degrees off our pointing so we tacked through around 90° on most occasions.

There’s no reason why the tacking angle of the fin-keeler should be any different – as you would expect, it just goes faster and makes less leeway.

The lower centre of gravity should also add a little stiffness.

During tacks on Sarnia , the only problem I found was the babystay interfering with the genoa.

Together with the genoa’s substantial overlap it would make short-tacking rather laborious and call for plenty of energy from whoever is winding the Barlow 23 primary winches.

Reaching along in a breeze is what she likes best. We clocked 7 knots at times and I could easily imagine a fin-keeler with a folding prop surfing away merrily.

Heaving-to presented no problems. The boat was reluctant to gybe around with the sheets pinned in but could just be persuaded to by some judicious rudder-wiggling to re-attach the laminar flow.

The nav table will accommodate a folded Admiralty chart. Credit: David Harding

A relatively blunt, high-volume hull like the Westerly Konsort’s is never going to slice through the waves as cleanly and smoothly as a slimmer one.

On the other hand it does seem to keep the crew dry: only rarely during our sail did any spray find its way back to the cockpit, where the helmsman can sit either on the seat, legs braced across to the leeward side, or on the flat-topped coaming.

The upper perch is tolerably comfortable even if the guardwires are too close outboard to lean back against.

Partly thanks to the transom-hung rudder, there’s enough space in the cockpit for four without over- crowding. The absence of an aft cabin beneath also makes it nice and deep.

Having the mainsheet across the stern works well: it’s easy to reach yet clear of the cockpit.

Just take care to flick it across above head-level during a gybe.

No aft cabin, means the saloon is further aft in a beamier part of the hull. The settee berths are wide and parallel. Credit: David Harding

A large locker occupies the space beneath the starboard seat and the gas bottle lives in the stern.

Treadmaster provides the grip on the coamings and cockpit sole, the seats being finished in Westerly’s distinctive blue non-slip paint that’s used on the deck as well.

Deck paint has always struck me as infinitely superior to moulded-in surfaces.

It provides an excellent grip, reduces glare and can be made to look like new – in the same or a different colour – for the price of a tin of paint. It’s extraordinary that so few other builders have done the same.

Moving forward along the Konsort’s wide deck, outside the cap and lower shrouds, is easy. On the wide foredeck is a chunky central cleat and a hawse pipe for the anchor chain.

Anyone used to modern production boats with large aft cabins and layouts based on interior mouldings will find the Westerly Konsort very different below decks.

Because there’s no aft cabin, the saloon is further aft in a beamier part of the hull and, as a result, it’s larger than on most boats of this size. The settee berths are wide and parallel.

Plenty of teak and teak-faced ply is nicely finished and bonded directly to the outer hull – still the best way to make the structure visible and easy to reach as well as to minimise wasted space.

As is traditional in boats of this era, the forecabin is separated from the saloon by the heads to port and a hanging locker to starboard.

Areas sometimes criticised on the Westerly Konsort include the quarter berth and chart table to port: because the chart table’s seat is the head of the berth, they can’t both be used at the same time. Standing at the chart table solves that problem.

Between the chart table and the galley on the opposite side is the projecting engine box.

Inside this Westerly fitted engines mainly from Bukh and Volvo. The box’s top makes handy additional work space for the galley, where it’s otherwise in short supply.

History of the Westerly Konsort

The Westerly Konsort Duo motor-sailer

Introduced in 1979, Westerly’s last design by Laurent Giles remained in production until 1992.

Over 600 were sold in the first six years, after which the price rose steeply and only a further 100 left the factory.

About 150 of the 704 Konsorts built are fin-keelers.

The same hull was used for the Konsort Duo, a motor-sailer with a large deck saloon and comfortable accommodation for two people.

Construction

The Konsort’s hull is a solid laminate of chopped strand mat, reinforced with rovings in high- stress areas.

A balsa core is used in the deck. Westerly had an in-house Lloyds surveyor and all boats were issued with a Lloyds hull construction certificate.

Keels are bolted to shallow moulded stubs.

Point to look out for if buying a Westerly Konsort from Westerly specialists

Konsorts are known for having relatively few structural weaknesses. Nonetheless, some points are worth checking.

• Like many builders, Westerly used orthophthalic resins until the mid-1980s and cases of osmosis are quite common.
• Chainplates are prone to fatigue and corrosion where they pass through the deck but are relatively simple to replace. Worth checking too is the reinforcement in the hull that distributes the load from the keel(s). The plywood used in early boats was less robust than the chunkier, foam-cored sections used from 1981 onwards. Fin-keelers especially should be inspected because of the lack of depth beneath the floorboards and the bottom of the hull on the centreline. Boats that have grounded or been badly shored up during winter storage are most likely to have problems. Keel bolts that have been glassed in rather than simply gelled over ask for special attention: someone might have been trying to hide something.
• Transom-hung rudders are easy to inspect but also more vulnerable to damage than inboard rudders. The Konsort’s gudgeons and pintles are joined by a rod and not especially robust. They are, however, simple to change.
•  On deck, the gelcoat is prone to deterioration from UV degradation and star-crazing is common.
• Below decks, the ‘Westerly droop’ is by far the most common problem, where the vinyl headliner starts separating from the deckhead.

If you want curvy lines and a double aft cabin, the Konsort’s not your boat. If, on the other hand, you want space, security, a good cockpit, surprisingly good sailing performance, positive handling under power, a roomy and nicely finished interior, structural solidity and proven resale value, she should definitely be on your list.

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Westerly GK24 Yacht / Sailboat

Westerly GK24 Yacht

The Westerly GK24 started as a prototype racing boat. Chris Hawkins designed an IOR ‘quarter tonner’ boat ‘Ebblake IV’ which was built in cold-moulded mahogany at Aquaboats and was raced successfully in the Solent. Westerly’s liked the design and decided to put it into production as the Westerly GK24 in 1974. Chris Hawkins worked with Peter Anstey at Laurent Giles to create the production version, changing the deck to provide a window into the interior and a little more headroom

The yacht was available with a choice of two rigs (masthead or fractional) and three levels of internal fittings ranging from stripped-out racer to fully fitted cruiser. The cruising versions were the most popular Although the accommodation is reasonably spacious in floor area, there is a maximum of 1.37m ( 4’6″ ) of headroom due to the flush deck. There is good sitting headroom all around the central area of the saloon but substantially less in the forepeak. Layout indicates 5 persons could sleep aboard but 3 is more realistic. Originally the boat had an inboard petrol engine but many have now been re-engined.

Around 320 boats were produced before production ceased in 1981. Westerly’s high production standards ensure that there are still many excellent example around today.

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Length : 7.32m Beam : 2.85m Weight : 1875kg

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Review of Westerly 24

Basic specs..

The boat is typically equipped with an engine.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Westerly 24 is about 134 kg/cm, alternatively 755 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 134 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 755 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

Maintenance

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Westerly 24 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

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Westerly centaur or bristol 24

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Hello all, Ive been lurking awhile, and am finally down to a point where i am going to buy. I've looked at a bunch of boats from 24 to 36. I am a newbie to sailing and looking to live aboard down in the florida keys. All the boats that are way bigger would be better live aboards no doubt, but its either try to get financing and do some work or go with a more modest layout initially get sailing now without the worry of a loan sucking out my spending money for the boat, plus as we all know the cost of new goodies increases exponentially with length so thats what i decided to do. Id rather get one i can make well founded, than stretch for something that might be unaffordable at this point. Plus i figure since ill fix it up (i always do) My mistakes are cheaper and ill lose less money. Better a modest boat I can sail now and lose a little money (yes it will prolly be thousands) on than some behemoth that i lose a lot of money on. and maybe never get bristol shape ya know? I figure its a better way to go since Ill just plan on replacing shrouds and winches, interior wiring, new sails. Restoring cars was a lot like this. Plan on the pleasure of a job well done to be the reward cause a financial gain isnt gonna be it even when you do the work. Im looking more for solidly built even if slow and forgiving over fast. I figure once i get the hang of it i can always upgrade. Let me state first i know they are slow and 'go poorly to windward', and yes i know they dont have a shower. Mainly i want something to sail now, maybe in 6 months or so go to the dry tortugas or the bahamas. Perhaps in a year or so I can move up or move ashore and keep the boat. I picked the westerly and the bristol because they seem to be better built than hunters and other production boats, they seem to be forgiving, with standing headroom, modest investment, shallow draft, less expensive for new items ie Winches sails, biminis, and it seems easily single handed by a newbie like me. I know the room is limited. I just graduated from college and lived in camper van as i moved around as an outdoor guide. My main ***** wasnt the space but the lack of headroom. Everything i own at this point fits in my dodge intrepid so i dont really have to get rid of anything. Ive got a few lines on each boat and am interested in your opinions on each design. Im leaning heavily toward the westerly cause its bigger and the twin keels plus an enclosed head. Of course the prop would foul easier. But the bristol heels less (which i like a lot, what can i say, im a puss) and has the fuller keel which is enclosed and a higher ballast displacement ratio plus would stand up to grounding better. Plus the bristol is 2 miles away, whereas the centaur isnt. but its only 200 miles or so very doable. Both have outboards by the way, though it was an add on for the westerly. Anyone know the capsize screen on the westerly centaur? The bristols is the magic under two number so that was a big plus. Does anyone have any experience with the roller reefing main systems on the westerlies? this seems a big bonus to me though it adds something that could break. I figure i could cover both ends and put in manual reef points just in cas and have the best of both worlds. Thanks for the opinions. Josh  

sailingdog said: I'd personally recommend you look for a Cape Dory 25D, which has standing headroom unless you're freakishly tall. It is one of the better smalll pocket cruiser sailboats, and has a decent size head in place of a v-berth. As for the mainsail roller reefing system... it isn't a very good system...and most people have retrofitted the boat with slab or jiffy reefing in its place. The roller reefing boom complicates using a boom vang or a preventer. Click to expand...

Are the westerlys tender?  

I don't know... never having sailed one...  

I've never heard anyone complain about a Bristol 24. I was seriously considering one before deciding on my Ariel, chose the Ariel primarily because it was local and the price included delivery, even then it was a hard choice to make. They are good boats, and by all accounts very stiff, from what I've seen they have a lot more room in them than the average 24 footer, looking at the plans, they look to have as much if not more room than my Ariel. If I'd have had a Bristol 24 when I was younger, I'd have never left California unless it was to go across the pacific. Ken.  

Of those two choices, I would choose the Bristol. I love that boat, perfect pocket cruiser with standing headroom. I can't look at a picture of a Centaur without dry heaving a bit. uuuuuugly! so I never bothered to learn much about it, but if you can get past the looks, I'm sure it's ok. I like the Pearson Ariel and Pearson 26 as well. No way are you going to find a Cape Dory 25D for anywhere near the price of those other boats, but go ahead and try, they are great. I have looked into Bristol 24's extensively, and the main thing I learned is there is a big difference in the keel, some used real lead and some used whatever scrap they had laying around mixed with concrete. I believe the Bristol boats were all lead.  

Yeah the one im looking at is a sailstar variety and given the depth of the bilge im pretty sure its concrete. Of course im in florida so its not likely to freeze any time soon. The bristols are a lot prettier.  

Lookee here . Six grand, already in Florida. You have 20 hours to make your move! Less pressing, here's a CD28 also in FLA, with some external storm damage, and some maggot stole the spars for crack money. How much time you have? Interior looks clean, and most of the damage looks like a person with reasonable glassing skills could put it right. I'd want a survey on that one, for sure. But spars shouldn't be hard to find down there in storm country.  

bobmcgov said: Lookee here . Six grand, already in Florida. You have 20 hours to make your move! Click to expand...

I recommend the Westerly Centaur heartily. Owned one for 20yrs. No, they are not tender. They are very stiff . I will wager they heel less than the Bristol. They are heavily built for their size, and have a lot of room inside - about twice as much storage space as a Cape Dory 25. One year at the Annapolis Show the Westerlies were on the same dock as the Cape Dories. I went down the line and it was not until I got to the CD 30 that there was as much storage space in the boat. I prefer the 1974 or later models, btw, and the "B" layout . But there is an early one, from the 1960's that has circumnavigated at least twice. There is a very good list serve on Yahoo where you can get any questions answered and see tons of pictures of variations and mods. You can also PM me here. As for 'go poorly to windward' I consider that apochryphal rather than real. When heeled the leeward keel is near vertical in the water, and deeper than when upright. That resists slippage better than a single keel which is at an angle when heeled. I never felt any loss of pointing when I had good sails properly trimmed. Sailed once for a couple days in company with a Pembroke - a single keel Centaur. It couldn't do anything my boat couldn't do. But mine would stand up at low tide so I could clean the hull any time I wanted and spare the $$ from a haulout.  

SO a watkins 27 snuck into the running. seems to be good for what i need. well built, standing head room, good ballast to displacement, but you pay for the beam in sailing performance. good beginner boat overall. I went and looked at a s2 center cockpit today and loved the room but ya payed for it in stowage and after reading the reviews decided to pass. in decent shape but more expensive than the centaur and watkins im looking at. still neat boat to go kick the tires on. The cape dorys are nice and a great boat but the centaur and watkins are much less expensive, but who knows maybe one will pop up.  

I own a westerly centaur 26' 3 foot draft, 1976, I sail her all around the Fl. keys And have no issue with her,  

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Westerly Centaur – the best small yacht in the world – probably

The Westerly Centaur is the finest small yacht in the world.  At 26 feet and four tonnes it is small enough to be easy to single hand and big enough to take the rough stuff.  I am confident that a Centaur could handle almost anything the British Climate can throw at it apart from the truly bonkers day when only an arse would be out in a 26 footer .  The space below is genius. A miraculously large bog is  provided and  five good berths. . Five adults  lived on mine for for two weeks - it was bloody crowded but feasible as long as the weather behaved. These boats sail brilliantly on all points of sail.

Of course all boats go well down or across the wind and given the blow a Centaur can really get a good chat going. . Upwind, admittedly,  they are not the same as a single keeler but if treated properly they go well upwind.  Centaurs like to be sailed just slightly over from upright. Then those canted and slighlt toed in twin keels  start to suck you up towards where the wind is coming from. But if you let her heel too much then that uphill keel stops working so well - you can feel it misbehave long before you see it cavitate -  The rudder tells you when the flows are not right.

Upwind sailing in a Centaur

The boat demands slightly more of you than than the fin or long keeler. When the gust come for those lazy wallahs they just brace their feet against a handy bit of cockpit, take one more suck on their pipe and let the physics do the rest as the boat heels to the wind and stays on track. With twin keels a bit of dinghy experience help. When the gust comes s -  either ease the main through the puff, or if you can't be arsed tto trim the main then just stuff her into the gusts a bit. When you look at my son came aboard the fist thing he did was to length the tiller exrension. In the film below you can see him sailing her like a laser dinghy he played the main - in and out that cleat  all the time. It was good to see.

The first centaur , Harmony the one I bought for £1,  was built in 1979 - the year after Westerly revamped the design of the keels and added a skeg.  She also had a lovely mainsail - a real driving force . Harmony felt good on the tiller - upwind you could steer her by feel alone. The £1 was really a sort of loan agreement. I did her up, sailed her for a year and then split the final price with the previous owner - three months of hard graft though.

The second boat - Lily M  - which cost me £5,500 was a different kettle  of fish. She was built before they change. With good old dependable, easy to reef,  flat as a pancake small mainsail Lily M felt like stirring jam. But trim her right and keep an eye on where she thinks she is pointing as opposed to where she really is pointing and she would go along rather nicely.

When I put the big blue ghoster on her - she was a real pleasure to sail though

They were both excellent boats but felt entirely different. How much was the main and how much the changed  keels and rudder I cannot say.

Bloody good boats

What the Centaurs gave me was the freedom to know that if the weather turned  bad and, as long as the engine would run, then by switching on the engine and shoving that big powerful bow into the teeth of the crap weather she will probably take you safely to wherever you want to go.  The prop with 20 hp going through it  is not half hidden behind a keel - it is running in clear flow  - it grabs water from between the keels and shoves it backwards. That negative pressure between the keels makes her hunker down like a six tonner - she feels bigger under power.

With lots of yachts they feel smaller, somehow less certain about themselves  under power than under sail.  Centaurs handle bloody brilliantly under engine. They are also s also great in marinas. Bugger prop kick I reckon - it hardly exists.r. She is completely under control going forwards at almost any speed so coming into and out of marinas is a piece of cake. In reverse things are less certain unless you get some way under - then you have pretty good control and you can stop her on a sixpence with enough engine revs - she onl;y weight four tonnes after all.

However, reversing around marinas at high speed in reverse and doing what look like emergency stops is frowned upon. So steady and forwards is the name of the game. if you do clonk anything she only weighs four tonnes so aim for the pontoon and not the Beneteau. The pontoon will survive unscathed the Centaur will have just one more ding of many. Any boat 40 years old will have been owned by idiots or got too close to idiots who own other boats.

Centaurs  deliver all this and bugger me they don't fall over when the tide goes out.

I am from East Anglia - flat scenery and 20 feet of tide. They do not need boatyard cradles either which can be a great saving.  You can ground her so easily that antifoul paint is no needed.

I shall miss  sailing a Centaur. Fekkin brilliant little yachts.

22 Responses to “Westerly Centaur – the best small yacht in the world – probably”

A mere speed hump for the adventure – you’ll be back up in bonny scotland in no time :)

Noticed that you mentioned the next 12 films would be west coast ones – are you going to do the Forth, Tay and Moray ones after that?

I confess that it is a bloody big hump Paul N – I have been forced to sell the filming platform and both cameras are knackered, corroded and out of date

Humps for a filming sailor don’t come much bigger than that and finding a way back into the position I was in this time last year will be tough – really tough. Both Eleanor and I think it is likely to be impossible -0 but I am up for tryimg. Ten years into this thing. I get defeated but I seldom quit.

THE BOSS has told me to focus completely on the west coast – sadly no-one cares about the east coast – her words not mine

The solent films did well for hits (but not taps) because people have sailed there. Hopefully the west coast ones will get lots of hits – my job, says THE BOSS is to try to turn as many of those hits into taps as I can.

No-one dreams about sailing up to Perth but they do dream about the west coast of scotland, the outer hebrides and st Kilda

priorities – set by her I should say – and she is “THE BOSS”

this might turn out to be a bump I damn I hope that is all it is – or it could be the end. I have no idea which it will be at this stage of the game. I aim to go down waving at the very least.

On the bright side, So far everything she has told me to do has worked to one degree or other. I have met her targets. The strategy set by me s ended with me selling the boat – her strategy seems to be a good one.

You will know what happened when I start blogging about sailing again rather than blogging about making films about sailing. I am sure you know what I would rather be doing – sailing.

Back to the editing desk to make what may well be the 12th to last film

Your probably right about the interest in the West coast, especially places like st kilda but on the other hand part of the KTL charm/USP was going to places well off the beaten track and unglamorous sailing areas as well as watching you work the tides to get up rivers that nobody else would bother with.

Does seem a shame to not use the footage you got in 2015 – how about launching a KTLTV2 channel on YouTube where you could stick up rougher/shorter clips and keep the full fat ones on the main KTL channel? Could also be a good home for some of your vlogs that you used to do.

Quite a few other youtubers do that and it means you can keep the interest high which might drive more visitors to here to keep tabs on things and hopefully be persuaded to chip in a bit….

I will only do that if eleanor says to do it. I have a feeling she will tell me to concentrate on the 12,000 non tappers. There are some lovely films there, and the cornwall stuff as well. I have gone broke. I have to swim to the nearest shore – if I can mix metaphors that way. I have to dance to youtube’s tune until I drop dead from exhaustion. You are the first person to ask about that material N – what does that tell you. besides – KTL is unique – there is nothing like it on the web. A sailing series without tits – who would have thought it.

i’m sure you (and Eleanor) are right – work the numbers so you can get the bish bosh to carry on must be the priority, i guess you can always come back and use the other stuff. Just thought that smaller, more regular bits might drive the youtube traffic – seems to be what other (non sailing) channels do these days.

Dylan – I now spend fourteen quid going to the cinema in Colchester, and that’s not including the parking and popcorn. Say £14 for a 90 minute film, therefore I’m happy to chip in the odd £7 for 45 minutes of your hilarious commentary and cinematic-quality photography. So make your movies and the “taps will come”. Best, -Jason

your wonderful taps may come – but I no longer believe in good fairies

the fact is that 4,000 people a day go to the KTL cinema and around 3,990 people walk out without paying – most days it is worse than that. It has been averaging ten taps a day since I put the reminder up and people realised that I have sold the boat – before then it was about ten a week.

I have been making these films for google to give away free for the past two years. The wet smelly stuff hit the fan with the selling of the filming platform – the cameras are rusty and out of date.. To get back in the game is a massive hill to climb. I have 12 chances to prevent the demise of KTL. The project is on life support at the moment. Eleanor and I are trying to pull something out of the ashes. I am hopeful but not optimistic. She is neither.

If I can get just a tiny percentage of those 12,000 regular users to tap in then then I can start again. But to start again looks like a big pile of money to earn from 12 good films none of which have tits in.

Two bits of advice – buy google shares and start downloading the films before they disappear.

Raise the maximum tap amounts listed some more. Yes, I did see the suggestion somewhere to buy two taps, but it’s not obvious enough. There will be some people who micro payments, e.g. paetroen, works for, and others, like me, who would rather buy the occasional round.

http://dartmouth.boatshed.com/fisher_freeward_25-boat-231107.html

Is this any good? £10 grand cheaper, new (ish) engine, hard top (sort of) and will sail better.

I am sure that you can see past the fact that she’s a bit in need of a scrub up. You can do a lot with £10 grand.

Just a suggestion.

Didn’t realise you had film of the East Coast & Cornwall in the can. I would be a real shame not to see this material. I believe your original concept of sailing as close to the coast and up each river to be a sound aim. Who else has done that and rewarded us with great footage and tales of how people lived in these less well known places. Although a little reluctant at first to accept that you need a more suitable & expensive boat for Scotland, I am with you on that decision. We got into sailing because of you and the idea it was something we could do on a limited budget in retirement (having not sailed before). Like you have significant costs traveling from Yorkshire to the IoW to sail, so we go for longer to compensate. One downside is we can’t just go for short breaks when the weather suits. The heated & dry cabin makes good sense particularly for two on board. It’s no fun being cold & damp, we might have put up with this when younger, but you have worked all you life for a bit of comfort! I do love your positive commentary while wearing 6 jumpers, a real pro! The next film must be drawing closer, looking forward to that. Your bank balance should improve by not forking out marine fees so that’s a positive. Oh and it would be interested in the issues with cameras on board, how you decide what to replace them with etc. Scotland 2018 and those islands will happen

Dylan, okay the Scottish west coast.. I’ll probably won’t ever sail there myself. Instead I still hope to do some sailing on the east and south coast of Britain in the near future. So those earlier films were an inspiration in themselves. I’m obsessed by visiting Wainfleet, for instance, get up the creek and on my bike to Wainfleet after that, to visit the local Brewery (Bateman’s) But I already was wondering whether it was time again to show some appriciation. So let’s see those 12 films and surely I will “bestride the foothills of niceness like a colossus among men” (your words!)

You might resume writing and editing film for Small Boat Advisor and other publications or video outlets in the U.S. to raise awareness of your journeys. That might help, but you really need a significant long term sponsor. International liquor, beer, wine conglomerates might be likely targets. You would have to sell your personality–not difficult. You would have to be filmed downing shots or pints or whatever of their products in pubs, bars–not difficult. We Yanks, who don’t know a firth from a forth, or anything, really, about the west coast of Scotland–or care much–respond to colorful personalities. So this tuppence worth from someone who began watching in the time of the Slug and the Beast but who has lost his way in the intricacies of Centaurs and such.

I have bought several books (on fishing) from a company where the author does not publish until the required amount of people have committed to buy. It seems to work well with books on a variety of subjects only get published once they are a financially viable proposition. If, as said in a previous post, you publish a tickler on youtube but hold back on the full length film until the required cash is committed I am sure that the’freeloaders’ will feel more inclined to tap the button. Good luck young fellah ! (I will log on and give another tap or two for luck !).

I did column on small craft advisor – and PBO – they pay terrible money – $100 a thousand. There is also no real movement from magazines to the web – THE BOSS says that print media is on such a slide that it counts for very little.

the problem is that the youtubers would soon learn that all you get from KTL is a teaser – so they don’t click on it. I think that putting the witty reminders in the films seems to work – well it did for round 1 anyway. If they object they can come to this website and watch it with no reminders in but they might have to catch a glimpse of a pay pal button

THE BOSS says trailers do not work – bloody hell – working under a dictatorship here. You will also note when the films are re-posted about a third of them will have my jowly ugly fizzog on them – as per instructed by herself

another move that another youtuber i subscribe to does is release films a month early to subscribers – could you do that maybe? Upload them to a private link and email that to folk that tap a wee while before the go live on youtube. Not sure i agree with the boss about teasers – again, other subscribers i watch do teasers for their paid content and it’s certainly worked for me.

Hang on a minute! I dream of sailing up to Perth. It’s part of my 2017 plan. I was waiting for you to post the instructional video :-)

we got to the bridge of earn as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJwVgra0a2o

Dylan, I was about to pay you “because I think it would help you to take a future boat to a future place”. Instead, as you suggest, I will watch the next 12 films and pay on a film by film basis. I am so sure that the films will not disappoint us that this should be a good deal for me and many of us. Probably not for most of the freeloaders. So, if for a moment you forget about them, what do we non-freeloaders need to tap per film to get your project going again? I’m sure you can do some math with expected tap numbers. I suggest this because I cannot believe that all of us MOBs will stand by, just watching your project go down the drain. Btw cheer up about your age. I am your age, I know you can’t count on it and you must do things while you can and while you don’t know how long it will last, but I just met a guy who sailed solo across the Atlantic twice at 61 and he’s still sailing at 74.

Thanks Peter,

well not all films are equal. Not all films hit the right note with everyone – some love the marina tours – some say they make them feel sick. Some day they loved it most when I was sailing solo in the slug – other said it is much better with jill, jake, Danie and Eleanor around. Some even want to know about the dog. So pay according to how much you enjoyed each film. If it was a pile of crap and a waste of your time then pay not a penny. If, on the other hand, it was as good as your last trip to the cinema or box set you downloaded then that gives you an upper limit.

I think the film by film blokes average $5

I very rarely get a $1 tap – but that is better than nowt and I do not know the man’s circumstances

I do get bigger taps but those are generally from blokes who hav downloaded them all to their hard drives so some of them chip in the value of a complete set of 8 seasons/double DVD sets.

I used to get paid $25 per four hour DVD, That was ten cents a minute, Now on the films, more people are watching them, but with the past low tap rate I was averaging 0.004 cents per minute watched.

which is why I ran out of money. things are very different.

Now then, if you have read any of the previous discussions THE BOSS says that you have to get into the mindset that you are paying not for a future uncertain supply of films but on the pleasure what you have just watched brought to you – and how much you would have paid for that as a game of thrones box set or netflix.

pay a price for the entertainment you have just had – were you there with me, did it make you feel more relaxed about Trump and American Democracy.

When you watch and maybe enjoy and pay for need for speed 6 you are not paying in the hope that a bloke in england will buy another boat.

That is what she says – what I say is….. fek I will blow every penny on sailing and cameras – you know I will.

But right now there is no way of guaranteeing that I will ever raise the cash to buy that fisher.

So whatever you decide to pay please pay for what you have just seen – not for what you hope to see,

That way if you go back and start watching the old films and you find one that you go – bloody hell that was good then send me $5 and a note saying why you liked it.

It will make me feel good, you feel good and I will do my best to make films in the style you really enjoyed.

you are an exceptionally good man for asking.

I am learning a lot about the difference between the Americans and the Europeans

for us Europeans money is embarrassing – the yanks are much more relaxed around the stuff for some reason. This is a first for me. never done it this way…. made a film, got people to watch it and then say – pay me what it is worth to you.

For about 5,000 old blokes who watch everything I make on youtube it is not worth anything other than the time they “donated” watching the films. Lots of them are old sailors who would not know a paypal button if hit them in the face. But who could resent an old now shorebound old sailor sailor coming for a sail down the west coast of scotland with an “agreeable old englishman in an unexceptional boat”” – not my words

Anything you pay will be greatly appreciated

My plan is to do the dutch side of the north sea when I am 72

Very well Dylan. These are good indications for tapping for all of us. If you have seen a film that you like, new or old: the average bloke taps $5.

And finallly, you name a date for going over to the dutch side. You’ll love the Wadden Sea. Gives both of us an incentive to keep sailing at least until we’re 72.

Incredible! Harmony was our childhood boat! Sad to see how neglected she got but fantastic to see you bring her back to life. Where is she now out of interest? Would love to see her again. So many things still on her that we put on. Lovely memories of the boat and completely agree with your comments.

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• Yachting Monthly
• Digital edition

Westerly Griffon – Yachting Monthly review

• September 15, 2014

Bob Aylott sails a Westerly Griffon from Folkestone and finds a boat big enough to be comfortable and small enough to squeeze into any marina

Product Overview

Manufacturer:, price as reviewed:.

What’s she like to sail? The Griffon (especially the bilge keel model) doesn’t like to be sailed too close to the wind, but if you ease her off to around 45° apparent, a Force 4-5 breeze will have her tramping along nicely at 6 knots or more, although making some 8-10° of leeway. Under sail, her tiller is sensitive but not too prone to weather helm – despite having an unbalanced, transom-hung rudder. She has wide sidedecks with good moulded non-slip and a full-height guardrail. Her cockpit has a spacious working area and the footwell is the right width for bracing oneself as she heels over. The wide, flat-topped coamings are high for safety and angled for comfort. There are two large drains at the aft end of the cockpit sole, along with a manual bilge pump set into the sole that can be used whilst still helming the boat. Her foredeck is uncluttered, with a simple chain-pipe to feed the anchor chain below decks and a bow roller designed to accommodate a self-stowing anchor. The masthead sloop rig is sturdy, with a single pair of straight spreaders, cap shrouds, aft lowers, a babystay and a split backstay. Rotostay furling headsail was standard, as were cockpit-led reefing lines. The mainsheet track is on the afterdeck, but a shortish boom rather compromises the sheeting angle. The Griffon is well known for giving a steady and reasonably brisk performance for a 26-footer. Previous experience of the model in stronger winds confirms she has a sea-kindly manner, even when pushed hard, and is easily capable of making long passages securely and in comfort. What’s she like in port and at anchor? If you lash the tiller to one side, six people can sit comfortably on the 2m-long (6ft 8in) cockpit seats. A good-sized sprayhood will cover the first two feet of each seat, giving the crew a sheltered place to perch. A deep cockpit locker contains the water and fuel tanks, but still has room for all the usual cruising gear. The pushpit rail has a gate for boarding via a folding transom ladder, with space each side to stow man overboard kit and an outboard motor. She’s a nimble yacht in port and manoeuvres easily under power. Many Griffons retain their original 13hp Volvo or Bukh engines, but some have been re-engined, often with a 20hp Beta. Down below, she’s very comfortable for two sailors and adequate for four, with a double berth in the forepeak and a double quarter berth under the cockpit. The saloon berths can serve as single berths, too, but it would be stretching it to sleep six aboard. Saloon headroom is 1.83m (6ft), but her galley is minimalist. There’s no shower, but there is an enclosed heads compartment. Would she suit you and your crew? The Griffon is ideal for singlehanded sailing, but she’s also a good, economical choice for a couple or a small family. Her forte is coastal cruising and short- to medium-range offshore passages. She is easy to sail and has a practical deck layout with a secure cockpit. The hull is well-constructed, although some early bilge-keeled models did have a problem with their keel attachment and had to be reinforced by Westerly in a recall. The MkI model was a little basic and lacked the smart teak joinery of the MkII, but all Griffons are comfortable and practical, above and below decks. She isn’t a speed machine; she’s best suited to pottering along – but that’s exactly what most of us want from a cruising yacht.

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Westerly Tempest and Merlin

• Thread starter rex_seadog
• Start date 12 Jan 2005
• 12 Jan 2005

Have recently added these two boats to our shortlist but can find little information in my back copies of PBO. Does anyone have any experience of the sailing performance (from a cruising point of view rather than racing) of either of these two boats especially in twin keel form? Looking at the ballast ratios (using data from the Westerly Owners' website) the Tempest at 32% would appear to be rather tender. The Merlin at 43% is similar to that of the Fulmar which is reputed to sail well in twin keel form. The fin keel Fulmar I chartered for a few day several years ago certainly proved to be an entertaining sail. The Tempest layout also seems to be a little unusual for a 30 footer in having two double aft cabins with the fo'c'sle taken up by a large heads and a walk-in locker. I haven't actually seen the Tempest yet but I understand that this layout results in minimal cockpit lockers. Any other pros or cons? Any comments/advice from forumites would be appreciated.  

We used to own a bilge keel Merlin, a great boat but not fast. With our mostly original sails (which I confess were not in the best shape) we were pleased with 5.5 kts and saw 6.1 once. Windward performance in weather was not great, the engine was required to make progress. Better sails may improve this. Having previously sailed on a GK29, which went like a rocket, we were slightly disappointed, however, she was always very stable and secure and felt we could go anywhere. The accommodation was excellent.  

i owned a tempest from new 1988-2002.fin keel,twin aft cabin version.sailed approx 18000 miles including two return crossings of biscay [milford haven -corunna].cruised extensively with young familly as crew[including biscay crossings].also single handing and club racing.maximum sea experience f 10[biscay 1991].i think she was an excellent boat -competed well and good at sea. soundly built [as all westerlies were]. adequate sail area and easilly managed. not at all tender. the 2 cylinder volvo gave enough power..the twin stern cabins work well especially with young familly or two couples.much quieter than sleeping in the bow.having sailed against merlins and having a friend who has one whilst not wishing to knock the merlin this is the one to have. unless you have a specific need for a bilge keel i would go for the fin -performance is much better.i fourteen years of good use out of mine with no major problems. when i sold her the surveyor did discover moisture in the hull to a minor extentand i was obliged to epoxy her but i would not have bothered if i had been keeping her myself. i would sugest westerly-owners site for further opinion but i have probably sailed my tempest further and harder than most  

philip_stevens

Active member.

Have a look on this link http://www.westerly-owners.co.uk/html/westerly_range.html and also post your question on http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Westerly-Owners/ newsgroup, after you subscribe. If you don't get an answer from there........ regards, Philip - Westerly owner. www.stiveswebdesign.co.uk  

aidancoughlan

have a look at http://www.clickspeed.co.uk/ryb2/merlin.html for a review on the Merlin. I've just bought a fin keel one for short handed sailing & am very happy with the accomodation & layout which is massive compared to others for a boat which is just 27ft over the deck. I cant comment on how she sails, as it hasnt been in the water yet, but she seemed ok on a short test sail. The Tempest is a bigger boat and will presumably give better performance - it looks to me a bit racier than the Merlin, a bit like a mini Westerly Storm which is a cracker of a boat for fast cruising. best of luck, Aidan.  

• 13 Jan 2005

Well-known member

I chartered a bilge keel Merlin a gazillion years ago. It made enough of an impact on me to vow never to have a bilge keeler. Accomodation was good, but the sailing performance was worse than bad....  

• 14 Jan 2005

beancounter

Sailing Today did a feature on the merlin sometime last year (can look it up when I get home if you're interested). I've sailed a few times on a friend's Merlin, and they are a comfortable, stable boat (fin keel). Brian sails his mostly single handed, so they can't be too much of a handful. The forecabin is a tad cramped (if you're 6 foot, as I am).  

A late reply, but I've just returned to the Forum after a lengthy absence and now catching up. I also has this choice before buying my Tempest two years ago. I certainly don't find her tender although she does like to be reefed early to avoid weather helm. Averagely fast for her size I'd say and a comfortable motion. Best point from a sailing perspective is the cockpit. Brilliant layout, very comfortable and easy to work (same as the Storm). The twin aft cabin feature is something you either love or hate. They are very good size cabins and great for kids or two couples. We usually use ours as a large "spare room" though. Two disadvantages: first there is no large cockpit locker. In practice, this means that the fenders are tied to the pushpit (no real problem) and the dinghy lives in the forepeak locker. That has the compensating advantage of being able to use the spinnaker halyard to pull it out and having it on the foredeck to blow up. Second, the cabin is pushed forward a bit and hence a bit small for the size of boat (cosy I call it). Further points: there is more stowage than we can use (and that's for a two week cruise with two teenagers). The forward heads works fine and it's well ventilated. The chart table's a decent size although the book shelf could be bigger. The sugar scoop is not to everyones taste but it's great for boarding the dinghy. The anchor well is very unusual for a Westerly, but much more convenient. On the whole, we love our Tempest, but then we would say that! One last point - compare prices; not a lot of difference for a much larger boat. Feel free to PM if you you have more questions. Simon  

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