riverboat coffee new orleans

• New Orleans, Louisiana /

Riverboat Coffee

Riverboat Coffee offers you nice food and a place to rest after a long walk around St. Elizabeth's Orphanage Museum . It might be nice to enjoy delicious iced coffee . Food delivery is a big plus of this place. The peaceful atmosphere makes a positive impression on people. Google gives it 4.9 so you can choose this spot to have a good time here.

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Riverboat Coffee

4409 Magazine, New Orleans , Louisiana 70115 USA

• Independent
• Credit Cards Accepted
• Wheelchair Accessible
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Learn more about this business on Yelp .

Reviewed by Gabrielle W.

Do you like cold brew? I do, I love it!! So Riverboat hit the spot for me. They have kegs of cold brew on draft - a variety of flavors too. I had the chai and thought it was very good! Not too... Read more

Reviewed by Camly T.

A chill place to go have coffee. It seems like their specialty is cold brew. The barista is always really nice and they have games for you to enjoy. Read more

Reviewed by Kathleen L.

My boyfriend and I were visiting NOLA for Mardi Gras and his birthday. We desperately needed some coffee and stumbled across Riverboat Coffee when walking. We popped in and were greeted by a... Read more

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• Mon - Fri: 7:00 am - 4:00 pm

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Riverboat Coffee Company 2

Coffee shop, beverage store, other delivery service, business info.

Riverboat Coffee Delivery. Riverboat is thrilled to over Subscriptions and Deliveries of our Cold brew and Whole Bean Coffee. We are dedicated to sustainable practices and provide only reusable glass growlers and biodegradable bags. Visit our website today and let us bring your coffee to you! See more …

Riverboat Medium and Dark Roast now Available for Delivery and Subscription. These one-pound bags of Nicaraguan Estate beans are 100% Arabica, organic, fair trade, and our bags are made from recycled materials and completely compostable. Visit www.riverboatcoffee.com to place an order or sign-up for a subscription. See more …

10% off of our 1/2 Gallon Cold Brew Growlers or 1lb Bags of Drip Coffee! You work hard enough so let us bring the coffee to you! Riverboat Coffee is pleased to offer deliveries and Subscriptions of our 1/2 Gallon Cold Brew Growlers and 1LB bags of Drip Coffee. -No Delivery Fee -Contactless Delivery to your Home or Office -Subscriptions Available for every 1 through 5 Weeks -100% Sustainable Practices in Place - Reusable Growlers and Compostable Bags -Satisfaction Guaranteed - Move/Pause/Cancel your Subscription at Any Time For the next week get 10% off your order of our 1/2 Gallon Cold Brew Growlers or 1LB bags of Drip Coffee. See more …

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• Where to Eat and Drink in and Around Lakeview
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New Orleans’s Essential Coffee Shops

A wide-ranging mix of the best longtime coffee shops and newcomers caffeinating New Orleans

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New Orleans’s independent coffee shop scene has thrived for over a decade, beginning with the arrival of third-wave shops in the 2010s. In the last few years, neighborhood cafes have become increasingly important to their neighborhoods, offering resources like community printers, running their own community fridge , and hosting weekend art markets and pop-ups.

This map, which could be twice as long, covers a sampling of newcomers and longtime favorites. Whether you’re in need of some spiced cold brew, a frozen drink, a pour-over, a cafe au lait, or just a black cup of joe, these shops have you covered.

Did we leave off your favorite coffee shop in New Orleans? Let us know.

Rue De La Course

Rue de la Course is considered by many to be New Orleans’s original coffee house, a shop founded in 1990 that once boasted eight local locations. Now there’s just the one all the way Uptown on Carrollton Avenue, housed in a soaring, historic former bank building. It’s still teeming with regulars meeting up for a cup of coffee, and the open-air upstairs full of university students. A great place to people-watch, and it’s open well into the evening.

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Some of the best coffeehouses and cafés to admire in New Orleans

Just blocks from the river is Zotz’s, a mom-and-pop with a cozy, funky vibe. This is no sleek, minimalist modern coffee shop (all the better): the armchairs are cushy, the cavern-like walls are covered with art, and there are books, games, and doo-dads a’ plenty. Grab a pastry with a classic latte or mocha.

Cherry Coffee Roasters

After gaining a following with her pop-up run inside of Stein’s Deli, local barista Lauren Fink opened the Cherry Coffee shop on Laurel in 2016, now an Uptown favorite, and a second shop two years later. She’s also since launched her own local roasting operation, but still sometimes features guest roasters.

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The Station Coffee Shop & Bakery

This Mid-City joint is easy to spot from the street with its unusual architecture, but it's what's inside that makes it a must-try. Sweet and savory baked goods made in-house accompany a robust coffee menu, with espresso drinks, Chemex and V60 pourovers. Everything's made with high quality products in house, so you can't go wrong. As a bonus, it’s one of few shops in town that makes it’s own chai blend.

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Church Alley Coffee Bar

Church Alley is a charming community-driven cafe in Mid-City, one that consistently shows up in a big way for its neighborhood. It’s also vastly expanded its food offerings, which include beet and apple salad, tahini avocado toast, and smoked ham and cheddar scones, as well as monthly drink specials.

Sacred Grinds

This cozy coffee shop is located between two of New Orleans’s historic cemeteries: Odd Fellow’s Rest and St. Patrick’s. A fenced-in patio overlooks marble mausoleums — inside, the living feast on vegan doughnuts, coffee cake, and vegan zucchini tamales, sipping on lattes and Americanos. Sacred Grinds is haunted and proud of it.

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Undergrowth Coffee

Opened in 2021, Undergrowth is one of the city’s newest coffee shops, though you wouldn’t know it from the store’s loyal slew of customers. The friendly, sustainably-minded couple behind the Magazine Street shop serve single-origin roasts from Ethiopia, Indonesia, and Nicaragua; creative, seasonal espresso and matcha drinks; and seriously good food, including the burrito, sweet potato hummus, and whipped honey goat and cheddar grilled cheese.

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The Bean Gallery

The Bean Gallery is a longtime Mid-City favorite serving Turkish coffee and specialty teas, outlasting many of the shops that have come and gone over the years. It’s open early and closes late, and there’s lots of seating indoors and out to enjoy drinks and the relatively large food menu of paninis, bagel sandwiches, avocado toast, and sweets.

CR Coffee Shop

Coast Roast Coffee, first started in St. Roch Market, has grown with its own roasting operation, an outpost Uptown on Magazine Street (with a particularly pleasant patio out front), and a new location in Metairie. Find exceptionally creative drinks, fun breakfast pop-ups on the weekend, and a vast menu of grab-and-go food items at all times.

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Coffee Science

New Orleans coffee vet Tom Oliver opened  Coffee Science   on S. Broad near the courthouse at the beginning of 2018 , joining a growing number of new businesses in the area. While primarily about world-class coffee, the shop also serves pastries, sandwiches, and salads, as well as a revival of a few of Kaldi’s most popular iced coffee drinks. Coffee Science consistently hosts the best pop-ups in the city on Sundays.

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This Uptown shop had to close its Magazine Street shop during the pandemic, but the beloved coffee outlet also has a home on the Lafitte Greenway — and it’s open late (til 8 p.m., a rarity in New Orleans). Hey! expertly roasts and brews coffee manually, boasting a “temperature profiling system,” makes its own chai, and serves bagels, pastries,  and breakfast tacos.  

Park Island Brew

Park Island Brew is a newer favorite, opened in 2020 on Gentilly Boulevard by Kevin Davis and business partner Chachera Brantley. The lovely corner building has become a neighborhood gathering place for its intricate espresso drinks — like the new rosemary lavender shakerato — and sweet treats.

Mammoth Espresso

This sunny Warehouse District shop from Jonathan Riethmaier, co-founder of the New Orleans Barista Social Club, boasts a Seraphim in-counter brewing system with automated pour-overs and specialty drinks. Mammoth is now a roaster as well, with plans for an upcoming roasting facility and expanded cafe. The tea program is one of the best in town.

HiVolt Coffee

This LGD coffee shop is a great spot to do work fueled by an array of breakfast/lunch items (including vegan and gluten-free). Everything — drinks and a substantial food menu — is made fresh to order. Plus, it may be the most stylish coffee shop around with its art deco design and mid-century decor.

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Old Road Coffee

Treme’s Old Road Coffee always has something new to offer, from kombucha tastings to Honduran breakfasts to art markets showcasing some extremely talented local vendors. Serving coffee from Congregation Roasters and Mojo, Old Road also serves fresh pastries and breakfast sandwiches made by a local mother-daughter team daily.

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Mojo coffee house (multiple locations).

With a few locations around town plus a successful foray into roasting, this LGD shop is still innovating in the New Orleans coffee world. Check out the coffee cocktails like the espresso gimlet, a double shot of espresso layered on top of a combination of lemon, lime, and simple syrup. Visit any of Mojo’s locations for a wide variety of locally roasted signature beans, a four-pack of 32-ounce cold brews, and even milked oats. Bonus: the location on Magazine is open late.

Backatown Coffee Parlour

Backatown serves up beans from one of the country's only Black-owned coffee roaster, Bean Fruit in Pearl, Mississippi, bringing a stylish, colorful stop to the city’s historic former Storyville area. Enjoy espresso coffee drinks as well as soup, paninis, and house-made sweet potato pie (a family recipe of the owner) daily. This lovely spot serves seriously great, reasonably-priced sandwiches.

Treme Coffeehouse

Treme Coffeehouse  is a gem; bright, cheery, full of local art, free wifi, tasty savories and sweets, excellent java (including cold brew) small and community-minded — all reasons to visit again and again.

Where to Eat and Drink in Historic Treme

French Truck Coffee

French Truck is one of the city’s most well-known brands, thanks in part to the identifiable shops and trucks. The LGD location fronts French Truck’s roasting facility, which provides beans for its own cold and hot coffee drinks as well as a thriving wholesale operation.

A Guide to Takeout and Delivery in the Lower Garden District (LGD)

Envie Espresso Bar & Cafe

There are tons of coffee houses in and around the French Quarter, but this place is a true New Orleans classic. Often raucous, always colorful, and sometimes less than savory,  Envie  draws a very loyal crowd, in part due to its rare late hours — it’s open until 11 p.m. — and outdoor seating, great for French Quarter people-watching.

The Orange Couch

A Marigny longtimer beloved by its neighborhood, Orange Couch is a bright, modern spot that attracts a mix of artists, students, retirees, tourists, and writers (it’s a favorite of hometown hero and famed author Maurice Carlos Ruffin). There’s a handful of sidewalk tables and a takeout window on Royal Street, making it a great option for a coffee with friends or grabbing something for a stroll in the pretty Marigny.

Who Dat Coffee Cafe

This corner shop is a longtime local favorite in the Marigny; fondly heralded for its friendly and funky atmosphere and for serving an excellent hot breakfast in addition to quality coffee and espresso drinks. Sit in one of three cozy rooms inside or on the raised sidewalk seating — all offer a pleasant setting. Love that this shop also serves mimosas and other drinks, if you’re done with coffee for the day.

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Pond Coffee

Pond Coffee is for the real coffee heads —an if-you-know-you-know kind of place. The sweet stand was opened by two baristas in 2020, connected to Small Mart’s beloved corner shop located on the border of the Marigny and Bywater. It’s popular for chai, matcha, lavender lattes, and cappuccinos, made exclusively with oat milk. Small Mart is a must-try for food, even if just a cookie or pastry, but the vegetarian Indian-inspired menu and bagel sandwiches are worth a separate visit.

Pontilly Coffee

This neighborhood coffee shop with a mission (it raises money for  Bethel Family House , a faith-based addiction recovery center), serves kolaches — nola-ches — pastries, breakfast sandwiches, frappes, and coffee drinks in one of the friendliest atmospheres in town (it’s also wheelchair accessible, not a guarantee in New Orleans). As a major bonus, it’s open late, until 9 p.m. daily.

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French Truck Coffee

Hours updated 1 week ago

Today is a holiday! Business hours may be different today.

Review Highlights

“ This was my first visit to French Truck Coffee, a popular coffee shop with several locations in the city. ” in 2 reviews

“ I got a breakfast sandwich and chicory iced coffee that left me full and very caffeinated throughout my long conference day. ” in 2 reviews

“ They were quick to make our drinks and to give me the blueberry muffin I asked for. ” in 2 reviews

Location & Hours

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700 Canal St

New Orleans, LA 70130

Central Business District

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About the Business

Business owner information

Geoffrey M.

Business Owner

French Truck Coffee is a craft coffee roaster in the heart of New Orleans. Come visit us for an amazing cup of coffee, cold brew or espresso. Take some beans home so that your morning includes a fantastic freshly roasted cup. …

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Great coffee, solid bakery case options, and clean seats and tables. There was jazz softly playing when we went, and I got the iced chicory coffee and a chocolate muffin. The bathroom was clean too, which I know can be hit or miss in tourist areas.

Iced chicory coffee and chocolate muffin

If you're in search of a vibrant spot to fuel up on caffeine and treats in New Orleans, look no further than French Truck Coffee. Nestled in the heart of the city, this hip coffee joint offers a bright and cool vibe that's perfect for soaking up the local atmosphere and indulging in a bit of people-watching. Let's talk about the muffins--oh, they're pretty great. Moist, flavorful, and just the right amount of indulgent, they pair perfectly with your morning cup of joe. And speaking of coffee, French Truck certainly knows how to brew a good cup. Each sip is a symphony of rich, bold flavors that's sure to perk you up and start your day off right. However, where French Truck falls a bit short is in their staff. While not necessarily rude per se, they lack the warm, friendly demeanor that one might expect when stepping into a neighborhood coffee shop in a city known for its hospitality. Instead of being greeted with a smile and a friendly "How's your morning going?", you might find yourself feeling a bit like cattle--just another transaction in their busy day. But if you can look past the impersonal service, French Truck Coffee is still a great spot to grab your caffeine fix in the heart of New Orleans. The quality of their offerings speaks for itself, and the vibrant atmosphere makes it a popular choice among locals and visitors alike. So, if you're willing to trade a bit of charm for top-notch coffee and tasty treats, give French Truck Coffee a try during your visit to New Orleans. Just don't expect too much in the way of warm and fuzzy customer service. After all, sometimes it's the coffee that matters most.

I needed my morning tea . I love green tea iced , so French Truck Coffee was right up my alley from my usual Starbucks. It was a nice experience to try a new coffee store. Service was good and I was actually pretty pleased and for ice tea I was offered " Still water, hot water or sparkling water". I went with the sparkling water for my green tea. The tea is very refreshing. The store is cute and located in the business district in New Orleans.

Green tea with sparkling water

The New Orleans Iced Coffee is the way to go! It's a good choice for trying this spot for the first time.

Very cute coffee shop, a good amount of room for seating. There was a little bit of a line but it moved at a good pace. I had a caramel latte. It was really good! Perfect sweetness amount. I would come here again.

Great coffee and conveniently located coffee shop! They have a neon sign on the back wall and cute branding on their coffee cups. I ordered the New Orleans Iced Coffee which comes with chicory and milk. I got it with almond milk. I thought it was on the border of being too sweet, but the flavor was really good! I enjoyed it overall and everyone was friendly here.

New Orleans Iced Coffee

French Truck is here. Shout out to the fact that they carry Natalie's Orange Juice. A Florida local. Their coffee is not wonderful. It's okay, sweeter than o prefer. The bagel was good. Employees A+, quality was good not great.

Hip positive vibes modern 275 for a small you can't beat fresh coffee at that price. Customer service professional and friendly. Minimum but good selection of hot and cold. Great location and hours. I grabbed beignets from cafe Benignet and a seat in the cool air of French Truck. Located on canal directly across from street car depot. There's coffee, other beverages, food and merchandise for purchase. Good for groups of more than six or one. I did not see parking.

Small chicory roast

The service here was awesome. I visited twice in one day several hours apart and the cashier somehow remembered my name. I bought the chocolate/vanilla muffin, the chocolate chip cookie and the ham & cheese croissant and all were delicious. Comfy cafe I could see me and my friends visiting for an hour or so.

Matcha Latte

I was in town for a conference so quick, convenient breakfast was what I was looking for. French Truck Coffee delivered in both and was conveniently located to the hotels my conference was located. I got a breakfast sandwich and chicory iced coffee that left me full and very caffeinated throughout my long conference day. Only downside was I tried to come back on my last conference day (Saturday) and they weren't opened yet before I needed to get to my first session starting at 8.

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A Roomy Coffee Shop Unfurls Along the Chicago River Near Goose Island

Printer’s Row Coffee debuts a roomier second location with pastries from Brite and Downstate Donuts

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Nick and Nicole Novotny began experimenting and roasting coffee beans at home when they lived in Akron, Ohio. A move to Chicago — to Printer’s Row — led to a further refinement of those skills and the 2015 opening of Lincoln Park’s Printer’s Row Coffee , a roastery specializing in small-batch and single-origin coffee. At 750 square feet, it didn’t take long for them to outgrow the space.

After a two-year hunt for a location, followed by an eight-month buildout, a second Printer’s Row Coffee. opened on Saturday, June 1 at 1400 N. Kingsbury Street, along a stretch that includes a massive Whole Foods and Off Color Brewing ’s Mousetrap taproom

Located in a building that was once used for cold storage, the 3,000-square-foot space was a blank slate when the couple took it over. “It was just the timber ceilings and brick walls,” says Nicole. “One of the perks of starting from scratch is being able to get everything the way you want it.”

At its newest location, Printer’s Row offers a menu very similar to its original, including light to medium roasts at the range the Novotnys say drinkers can best appreciate the unique flavor notes of single-origin coffees. Syrups are made in-house with seasonal flavors augmenting the favorites. Macadamia milk stands out on the list of non-dairy alternatives available for lattes and other drinks.

Local pastry providers are featured, including Downstate Donuts. “We used to work with them years ago and they recently brought back wholesale and we are excited to have them at the new place,” says Nicole who’s a big fan of their potato doughnuts. Traditional croissants and assorted danishes are from West Town’s Brite Donuts. Additional food items could be added later, says Nicole. “We are always down to change and see what people are interested in and go from there.”

For the design of the open room, half of which is the café and the other half production, the idea was to keep as much of the space’s original character as possible. Incorporating a neutral color palette, the design elements were kept to a minimum — a few plants here, some faded rugs over there — to add more later. It’s an open space with a counter with electrical outlets, and patio seating outside along Kingsbury.

“One of the things I think is so interesting is the way our first location has changed over time with all the character that filled it over the years we’ve been there,” says Nicole. “That is something we want to do in this new space. We want it to be something we can grow into over time as well.”

Finding vintage items and refurbishing them is another passion of Nick, who does the roasting and is a pharmacist at Northwestern Memorial Hospital, and Nicole, a graphic designer. All of Printer’s Row’s ’70s-era seats originally came from a college in Colorado but ended up in Indiana where the couple found them online before refurbishing them. The merchandise shelving also was created from vintage materials.

Unlike their first location, which only has a handful of rail seats and a small patio, the newer location has plenty of seating. In addition to the two- and four-top tables in the center of the space, there is a central seating area outfitted with vintage sofa and chairs. The six bar stools at the bar offer a front-row seat to the coffee roasting process. East- and south-facing windows and a garage door that opens provide plenty of natural light during the day. Outside, there’s a 16-seat secluded patio.

“We really wanted to be able to offer space for people to enjoy their coffee and to engage with us and build connections in that physical space,” says Nicole. “The spirit of Printer’s Row is pretty awesome and to now have it in two places is going to be cool.”

Printer’s Row Coffee Co. , 1400 N. Kingsbury Street, open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily.

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Downstream effects: The cautionary tale of the Mississippi River

A new book tells the modern history of the "big muddy" as a tragedy wrought by colonial hubris..

In an often-excerpted passage from his memoir, Life on the Mississippi , Mark Twain describes how his perceptions of the Mississippi River changed after he spent months piloting a steamboat up and down its muddy length. “The face of the water, in time, became a wonderful book,” he said, allowing him to read the bends and eddies that meant nothing to his passengers. But the tragedy of this “valuable acquisition” was that “the romance and the beauty were all gone from the river.” 

“All the value any feature of it had for me now was the amount of usefulness it could furnish toward compassing the safe piloting of a steamboat,” he wrote.

Even for those of us who will never pilot a steamboat, there is a vestigial lesson in this passage about how we perceive and talk about the environment. A body of water like the Mississippi River is something we experience with our eyes, ears, and noses, and it is in large part because of its beauty that we want to protect it. But it also has a specific human history — the river runs between artificial levees, or provides conveyance to ships carrying oil, or drains toxic runoff from factory farms. 

In his fascinating new book, The Great River , the writer Boyce Upholt tells the story of the Mississippi not through the eddies and mudflats Twain passed in his steamboat, but through the stories of men who have sought to master the river for well over two centuries. Ranging across thousands of miles, he demonstrates how the United States has deformed and manipulated one of the world’s largest watersheds in the short-sighted service of economic development, often with catastrophic, unintended consequences. If Twain read the river as a book, Upholt gets more specific and reads it as a tragedy wrought by colonial hubris.

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This focus on the people who carved and dredged the river for their own ends, rather than on the wilds of the river itself, produces a story that has profound lessons for coastal cities and western deserts as well as those who live in the river’s great watershed. 

The most interesting question, Upholt argues, is not how the Mississippi River will fare in a changing climate, but what the history of that river tells us about how the rest of us will fare. In reviewing how “engineers worked to tame this god,” he rings an alarm about other efforts to control the flux of nature. For all our expertise and prowess, he argues, we are little more powerful than the boat passengers Twain mocked as blind to the river’s ways.

The first section of the book recounts the centuries that preceded this effort of domination. Upholt explores a growing body of archaeological research about several Indigenous societies that rose and fell along the Mississippi many hundreds of years before European settlers arrived, including one city, Cahokia, in modern-day Illinois, which housed more than 10,000 people around a central pyramid more than a hundred feet high. He contemplates the cosmic purpose of earthwork mounds like the ones in Poverty Point, Louisiana, which represent “Indigenous knowledge encoded in the land,” telling a story in which “a flood is not a catastrophe but an asset.”

Once the colonists arrive and President Thomas Jefferson sends them rampaging out into the Midwest, Upholt swings up and down the main stem of the river and along its major tributaries, the Missouri and the Ohio, describing how fur traders speared their way downstream in “keelboats [that] hugged the inner bends of the river’s curves,” fortified by “whiskey chased by a cup of river water.” Upholt announces at the start of the book that he won’t proceed in a strict chronological order, which is understandable enough since his book isn’t a traditional work of history, but his attempts to toggle backward and forward in time as well as between various tributaries can often leave the reader feeling lost. 

The book hits its narrative stride, however, once Upholt introduces the Army Corps of Engineers, the federal agency that has controlled the river for almost two centuries. Since the 19th century, the Corps has spent untold billions of dollars to dredge, levee, dam, undam, channelize, divert, reroute, and re-reroute the river, attempting to control flooding and facilitate navigation for freight. This audacious effort to tame Mother Nature has achieved a degree of success that could most charitably be described as middling, and some of the best sections of the book are those in which Upholt describes the many levee and dredge projects the Corps has built against the better judgment of river experts, as well as common sense. 

The squabbling engineers who have led the Corps, often hapless but always unfailingly self-serious, are the closest that Upholt gets to main characters, and their stories function as parables about the relationship between the U.S. and the environment it sought to colonize and reshape. The most famous of these was the contest between James Buchanan Eads, a brilliant civil engineer who advocated making space along the river’s banks for its water to flow and flood, and Andrew Humphreys, an Army general who advocated sealing most of the river off with man-made levees. Humphreys won the debate, with catastrophic results: In 1927, as the Corps of Engineers was finalizing its levees along the lower river, a massive flood burst through them and inundated much of Louisiana and Arkansas, killing 500 people and displacing hundreds of thousands more.

A more sympathetic character is Harold Fisk, an Army Corps cartographer who designed beautiful maps of the river’s vestigial pathways, showing how it had meandered back and forth across the heartland in the centuries before the Corps walled it off — one such map adorns the cover of Upholt’s book. Fisk’s now-legendary ribbon map “highlighted rather than obscured the wildness of the Mississippi,” and in the process discovered that the river was on the verge of cresting its banks in Louisiana and rushing southwest away from New Orleans, which would have left the city high and dry.

The pinnacle of the book is when Upholt visits the Old River control system, which was designed to hold the river in place and prevent Fisk’s prophecy from coming true. As he approaches the site, Upholt sees “concrete wing walls flare outward, funneling water toward a series of five steel gates” held in place by giant beams, and then “just upstream a second line of gates, six times longer, looms over a patch of batture … from a concrete catwalk built along the confluence, the river looked like a varicose vein … so swollen that it was ready to pop.” 

It’s hard to comprehend the modern Mississippi until you’ve seen this structure. Its hubris typifies the destructive human effort Upholt is trying to depict throughout the book, and holds a lesson for regions and nations attempting to tackle the threat of climate change. If the world’s wealthiest and most powerful nation struggled to tame nature before the Earth warmed by a degree and a half, it does not bode well for its efforts to fend off sea level rise with concrete walls or solve drought problems by constructing more dams. 

But the solution, as Upholt makes clear in the end, isn’t just to tear everything down, to insist on seeing the river as a pure manifestation of nature. Rather, he points us back to the Indigenous earthworks that preceded colonization, relics of a society that tried to live with the rhythms of a flood-prone river rather than change those rhythms to suit human needs, finding a harmony between Twain’s two ways of seeing the Mississippi. 

“This river has never been alone,” Upholt writes after seeing an earthwork in Louisiana near a village of the Grand Bayou Atakapa-Ishak/Chawasha Tribe. He goes on to describe the half-submerged earth structure as “a monument … not to the beauty of empty nature, but to the possibility of a human connection”; rather than a “celebratory” structure, he sees the mounds as “insurance, anchor amid the chaos. They provide a lesson in how to respect nature without seeing it as something separate from human life.”

In the matter of climate change, an area where politicians often appeal to the ferocious power of nature and to our ability to right the course of the Earth itself, it’s a point well taken. To really achieve sustainability, on the Mississippi or elsewhere, we’ll have to give up some amount of control.

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Grist is the only award-winning newsroom focused on exploring equitable solutions to climate change. It’s vital reporting made entirely possible by loyal readers like you. At Grist, we don’t believe in paywalls. Instead, we rely on our readers to pitch in what they can so that we can continue bringing you our solution-based climate news.  

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