model yacht self steering gear

Windy Selfsteering

Tough, strong and reliable self steering

New Windy coming soon

Model Windy (servo-pendulum, currently not available) feedback and nice blog:

Sailblog Yacht Flirtie, Voyager 40 Blog1: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/483079 Blog2: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/483286 Blog3: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/

About ProVane

ProVane is designed for a larger boat with wheel (also suits for tiller) and it has emergency rudder ability. ProVane can be mounted off-center.

It’s rudder is 300x1100mm and also the windvane is large, 520x1000mm. ProVane is stand alone system, auxiliary rudder type, no steering lines in cocpit for the wheel.

Advantages over electric autopilots:

• It does not require electricity for its operation.
• Robust and simple construction. 
• Emergency rudder with tiller.
• Vessels rudder system does not wear on longer trips.

Dimensions PDF:

proVane dimensions

For better understanding user manual is downloadable by this link here (Google Drive):

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Make your sailing experience more enjoyable

Nb no new orders will take new orders in august. apologies.

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Selfsteering equipment idea was born while I was sailing around the world across three oceans on a 31-feet yacht.

On the last leg from South Africa to Cabo Verde, flight home being less than 4000 nm away, the old noname self steering gear broke down when a bigger breaker hit the yacht from the side.

This gave me a reason to start developing a new self steering system that would be stronger. The idea was to build the cheapest windvane on the market that would still keep its strength and quality. By now Windy windvane has successfully sailed across the Atlantic ocean many times.

S/Y Bellatrix

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THE earliest model yachts had no steering gear whatsoever, and consequently were unable to sail a good course when the wind was anywhere abaft the beam. The first steering gears to come into use were weighted rudders, and though these were better than nothing at all, it was not until 1906 that the first efficient steering gear was invented. With its invention model yachting at one stride advanced from being a more or less childish pastime to a sport calling for great skill and accuracy.

Now, in theory the main function of the rudder is not to hold a yacht on her course, but to steer her back to her course when she is thrown off it by a puff of wind. Actually, in practice, the helm does hold the boat on her course, and with a good helmsman every variation in the wind is anticipated and met, so that the yacht keeps a dead-straight course. A straight line is the shortest distance between any two points, and, obviously, the helmsman who sails the straightest course is going to gain much ground on his rivals.

It would, therefore, seem to be an absolutely correct principle in models to make the very factor that tends to throw the yacht off her course actuate the rudder to keep her straight. Several attempts were made to do this, and in 1906 Mr. George Braine of Kensington evolved the steering gear for models which bears his name.

By this gear, the angle of the rudder can be made to vary in exact ratio to the pressure of the wind on the sail. During the years that have elapsed since its introduction, minor improvements have been made in the pattern of the quadrant and by the substitution of a slide for the pinrack with which early gears were fitted. The principle of the gear, however, remains absolutely unchanged.
The method of using this gear is not covered here, and we are here concerned mainly with the way to make it and fit it up. At the same time some little explanation at this point may be of assistance to the builder in making and fitting the gear correctly.

The principle is briefly that as the wind freshens the yacht tends to head up towards the wind. In a full-sized vessel the helmsman corrects this by giving the yacht weather helm. In the model the pressure of the wind on the sail causes it to pull on the sheet, which is attached to the helm and thus operates the rudder. There is an elastic centering line to bring the rudder back amidships. As the pull of the sail must operate through the weather sheet, the steering lines are accordingly crossed.

The gear itself consists of a quadrant attached to the rudder-head, a pair of pulleys, a tension slide, and an elastic centering line. The first essential of any steering gear is that the rudder shall move freely. To ensure this, the pintle must be properly made and fitted and the rudder-post must not bind in the rudder-tube. Care should be taken that no paint or varnish gets inside the rudder-tube, as nothing will cause a rudder to bind more. Another point of the utmost importance is that the pulley blocks must run very freely and that the steering lines must render easily through them.

The quadrant of an A-class boat will measure about 4 in. from back to front, and about 5 in. across. It will be smaller proportionately for the smaller classes. The radius of the curve of the forward part is approximately 4 1/2 in, and the holes for the hooks are spaced 3/16-in. centres. A wire loop is hard soldered on the underside of the tail to take the rubber centering line as shown in the end view given in the diagram. In order to take the rudder-post, the quadrant carries a sleeve 5/8 in. long. This is hard soldered to the quadrant, and has about half its length below it. The sleeve must be a close fit for the rudder-head. A set screw passes through sleeve and rudder-head, and prevents the quadrant from wringing round. It is essential that the rudder and quadrant be very carefully lined up when drilling the hole for the setscrew, as if the rudder is the least fraction out of central the boat will not sail properly.

A suitable length of rubber cord is now cut off to form the centering line. For an A-class model this will be 3/16-in. diameter. The rubber is used double. The ends are lashed together, and the cord middled and hooked on at the stern. It is then passed through the eye in the quadrant, and one part passed on each side of the rudder post under the quadrant. The quadrant will have to be taken off whilst this is being done. A cord with a bowser is fastened to the forward end of the centering line to allow for its adjustment. Carefully line up and put a screw-eye into the deck to take the forward end of the centering line. The slides have now to be put in place. In the case of a single slide, the rubber passes through the hole in the slider, but in the case of double slides it passes between them. In putting the slides into position, great care must be taken that they do not give the rudder bias either way. The slides should be so placed that when in the most forward position the slide is within 1/16 in. of the tail of the quadrant.
The steering pulleys have now to be fixed. These should be sufficiently far apart to ensure the leeward line remaining idle if the boom rises somewhat in a heavy wind.

Although the use of tension slides enables the pinrack to be dispensed with, many skippers still fit one in addition. Moreover, for certain purposes they are very convenient. In any case this is a very simple fitting to make.

The material required is two strips of brass 3 in. wide. Bend the first to form a bridge over the tail of the steering quadrant and just clearing it comfortably. Bend the second to form a corresponding bridge under the quadrant, about half way between the tail and the deck. The length of these bridges will vary between 2in, and 3 1/2 in, according to the size of the boat. Drill holes in the ends of the bridges to clear a 3/8-in. No. 1 screw. As the two bridges are screwed down to the deck together, the holes must register. Screw both parts down together on a spare piece of wood. Starting at the exact centre, drill pinholes right across at 3/16-in. intervals. Since the two bridges are screwed down to the deck together, it is unnecessary to sweat them together, but it makes a rather neater job to do so. To complete the fitting, two pins are required. These should be long enough to go through both bridges without touching the deck. To avoid loss, the pins should be secured by short lanyards.

This completes the gear required for Braine steering, unless it is wanted to make provision for jib steering as well as mainsail. In such case, an extra pair of pulleys and two quadrant hooks are needed.

When a model is fitted with Braine steering, the steering is out of action when she is close hauled, and she relies entirely on the trim of her sails. Although this will be discussed at length when we are dealing with the handling of a model yacht, it must briefly be referred to here.

Since a vessel cannot sail against the wind, she has to work to windward in a series of " tacks," pointing first to one side of her goal c and then to the other. To gain ground to windward, tacks must be sailed at an angle of less than 90 degrees to the wind, and a close-winded yacht will sail at about 4 degrees'. A boat's course is determined largely by her sail trim, and some boats " point " higher than others. If a boat is sailed too close, she will not " foot " (move smartly through the water), but lose speed. Sailing to windward becomes, therefore, a compromise between pointing and footing, so as to get the boat the greatest possible distance to windward in the shortest possible time.

• Masting, rigging and sails

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Pond Yacht rigging

By JerseyCity Frankie May 3, 2015 in Masting, rigging and sails

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Jerseycity frankie.

Im sifting the internet looking for information about pre-radio control Pond yacht rigging. Working rigging for sailing scale models.

Before radio control, as I am sure all of you know, pond yachts reached a high degree of sophistication. Self tacking steering gear controlled by wind vanes, with a lot of complex brass hardware with elastic bands and adjustable sliders, were visible on deck and could be set by the user on shore to match the prevailing wind conditions and desired point of sail.

My problem is in finding authoritative information on these mechanisms. Nearly ALL of the images I find of historic Pond Yachts, those not in actual contemporary photos, are of models that have been restored and have had their steering gear simplified, presumably by antique dealers with little working sail understanding. In most of these cases its very obvious that brass fittings remaining on deck are not rigged in a way that would have an actual effect, they have merely been mocked up to look like they function and are often left unconnected to the sails.

Have any of you R.C. guys come across books or websites that deal with this aspect f the hobby? I hope there is a repository of this knowledge somewhere, it would be a shame to lose it.

• Omega1234 , Jack12477 , markjay and 3 others

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Blue Jacket Ship Crafters, in their book department sells two books on pond models. Both books are by M. de Lesseps. They are Pond Models  and Pond Yachts How To Build And Sail Them.  These books may have the information you're looking for.

Yowch $57 on Amazon!  But I see only $21 at Blue Jacket. Thanks for the tip!

I wrote to the Central Park Yacht Club and they put me in touch with a gentleman with experience with the subject. I was touched by his generosity when he wrote back and sent along annotations on the photo I had sent him.

He explains that:

......... sheet-to-tiller rig:  there were *two* mainsheets, one used on  going to windward  and the other on the run. Both typically had hooks on the end so they could be switched.

Sailing upwind, the boat sailed on balance only, tiller centered by the elastic as shown in the picture. The beating sheet ran from the end of the boom and was hooked on the ring on the main horse. Running sheet hung loose. On the run, the running sheet would be hooked to the tiller as shown, and run out so the main boom was swung out to one side or the other. The beating sheet would hang loose. The principle is that if the boom were swung to starboard, the boat would tend to turn to port. The pressure of the wind would pull on the main sheet against the elastic and give opposite helm to the rudder , thus guiding the boat. The jib would have a single sheet, adjusted with a tensioning device,  let out for the run and pulled in for the beat.  

• Omega1234 , Jack12477 , IgorSky and 2 others
• 2 weeks later...

Found this on Google books and it is relevant:   https://books.google.com/books?id=_jYCAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA103&dq=Pond+Models+%C2%A0and+Pond+Yachts&hl=en&sa=X&ei=8NtZVbWuHq7IsQTHgYHADg&ved=0CC4Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=Pond%20Models%20%C2%A0and%20Pond%20Yachts&f=false

• 1 month later...

Try this web site from the UK: www.vmyg.uk. Its called the Vintage Model YachtGroup, its web site has a link to a

instruction book for various self steering mechanisms and how they work. 

Looked interesting.

Bridgman Bob

Thanks for the link to the website! I thought I had seen them all by now but this was a new one to me. Here are some shots of the model I am restoring, one of two. THis example was likely not actually sailed. It has a lead keel but there is no rudder head, the rudder moves but does not pierce the deck.

The second model, not pictured, has rudimentary self steering gear and I will put up some photos of that later as I finish work on her.

I finished the restoration work I was doing on these two Pond Yacht Models. I have a new appreciation for this type of model and plan on building one of my own now. Here are some before and after photos. ANd then just some details shots.

• Omega1234 , markjay and mtaylor
• 7 months later...

However, did you notice that shipping at Blue Jacket starts at $50.00?  

Huh?    http://www.bluejacketinc.com/ordering.htm

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                              Past Builds:   La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans  - ON HOLD            Tri ton Cross-Section    

  NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                             HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64                

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                           On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                      Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0  (Abandoned)           

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Two sheets showing full working drawings for a variety of steering and sail control devices for vintage restored and replica yachts of all types.Most diagrams are fully dimensioned for reproduction by competent model makers.Designed by G W Clark.

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Self-Steering—with No Strings Attached

• By Darrell Nicholson
• Updated: February 4, 2002

C02DN01.jpg

Although servo-pendulum windvanes, which we covered last month (“Sorting Out Self-Steering Options,” January), remain the most popular type of windvane self-steering system, other designs fill an important niche. Some sailors prefer the direct mechanical linkages–so there are no steering lines to the cockpit–that these other systems feature, and some boats simply won’t work well with servo-pendulum designs.

The alternative designs fall into two categories: trim-tab systems, which work with the boat’s rudder, and auxiliary-rudder systems, which steer with their own built-in rudders. These windvanes feature the same three major components as the servo-pendulum designs we reviewed–sensor vane, underwater course-correction unit (servo-rudder), and linkages.

The servo-pendulum windvanes we reviewed use low-stretch lines led through blocks to connect a vane’s powerful pendulum-rudder to the boat’s tiller, wheel, or steering quadrant. In the trim-tab and auxiliary-rudder systems we’ll look at, the linkage to the boat’s rudder or auxiliary rudder is mechanical, an arrangement that avoids problems of excessive stretch, chafe, or incorrect tension but can introduce corrosion problems and linkages that have their own complications. For owners of center-cockpit boats, the direct linkage eliminates the need for long lines running across the afterdeck.

The boats that stand to gain the most from such systems are ones with hydraulic steering or with wheel steering having four or more turns between stops, ones with high freeboard, or ones that are otherwise incompatible–or less compatible–with servo-pendulum steering vanes. In most other cases, servo-pendulum vanes offer undeniable advantages.

Trim Tabs Like the flap on an airplane wing, a trim tab is the trailing edge of a larger foil–in our case, either the ship’s primary rudder or an auxiliary rudder. When directed by the vane sensor, the trim tab turns. As long as the boat is moving fast enough, the lift provided by the change in water flow provides the force necessary to move the larger rudder. A trim tab should be balanced (meaning that its leading edge is forward of its axis of rotation), so that it’s easily driven by the vane sensor, and appropriately sized, so it provides sufficient power to control the rudder. Friction at its pintles and gudgeons should always be minimal.

Few of the trim-tab units we’ll review can be lifted easily out of the water or quickly removed from the rudder, a common shortcoming among both trim-tab and auxiliary-rudder systems. This not only makes the underwater unit more difficult to maintain and more vulnerable to damage, corrosion, and fouling; it also can add an unexpected twist when backing a boat under power. The biggest drawback of a traditional trim tab is that it can’t produce the same amount of power as a pendulum rudder of the same size, so a boat’s sail trim and helm balance become even more important. Heavy-displacement vessels with unbalanced rudders can make the trim tab’s job particularly tough. For emergency steering, you can use a trim-tab system that connects to the main rudder as long as the rudder to which it’s attached is intact and is still capable of turning (as in the case of a broken steering cable, for example).

Saye’s Rig: The Saye’s Rig is one of the few production windvanes that still uses a flag- type vertical-axis vane sensor, which functions like a masthead wind indicator, rotating so that its leading edge always points into the wind. A vertical-axis vane, however, can’t generate as much force as a horizontal vane of the same size. Nevertheless, the Saye’s Rig manages to provide an efficient steering impulse with a powerful wedge-shaped cloth vane. One reason the Saye’s can get away with a relatively small vertical-axis vane is that the trim tab it commands is a very small, well-balanced, servo-pendulum rudder, which provides far more power than a conventional trim tab of the same size. The linkages are simple: The pendulum rudder’s shaft passes through an extended U-shaped tiller arm attached to the boat’s rudder. The longer tiller arm, the more power it provides, so it works best on boats with inboard rudders. The simple design allows for durable construction in 316 stainless steel and cast bronze.

Auto Steer: This system, made in England, is easily adapted to boats with outboard rudders. Through a simple acetal-plastic and silicon-bronze universal linkage, the horizontal-axis sensor vane connects to a custom-sized trim tab made of wood and stainless steel attached to the boat’s rudder. The Auto Steer trim-tab vane is made of LM25 aluminum castings and 316 stainless steel, with insulation between dissimilar metals to minimize galvanic action. The manufacturer, Hydra Engineering, doesn’t recommend the system for heavy-displacement boats over 35 feet. For larger boats, the company makes a more powerful servo-pendulum unit.

Auxiliary Rudders An auxiliary rudder, because it’s smaller and often better balanced than the boat’s main rudder, reduces the resistance to the steering impulse, which, in the models we’ll look at, is delivered by either a trim tab, the vane sensor, or a servo-pendulum rudder. Because they operate independently of the boat’s rudder, auxiliary-rudder systems are compatible with hydraulic steering. They are also capable of serving, in a limited way, as an emergency rudder.

When selecting an auxiliary-rudder system, carefully consider proper rudder size and how it’s attached to the boat. Although the boat’s main rudder will be used to compensate for weather helm, the auxiliary rudder still needs to be powerful enough to steer the boat before a high quartering sea. Attachment points at the hull should be well reinforced, and the rudder shaft should be rugged. These details are particularly important if you need your auxiliary rudder to serve in an emergency. Heavy-displacement boats that are difficult to steer can test the limits of an auxiliary rudder that’s required to steer in an emergency. Auto-helm: This system features a large, wedge-shaped, horizontal-axis vane sensor made of 6061 T6 anodized aluminum that’s linked to a trim tab on an auxiliary rudder. The rudder mounts and underwater fittings are made of 316 stainless steel. The easily turned trim tab helps amplify the relatively weak wind impulse into a force that can drive the auxiliary rudder. The unique cable linkage (similar to a bicycle’s brake cables, but with smooth Teflon sheaths) between the sensor vane and the trim tab allows a great deal of flexibility in where you mount the vane. The vane can even be mounted on top of davits, which often interfere with other designs. These cables must be kept clean to ensure minimal friction. The sensor vane can also be used with a custom trim tab attached to an outboard rudder, in a manner similar to the Auto Steer system.

Hydrovane: This auxiliary-rudder system uses a horizontal-axis vane sensor to drive a well-balanced, solid-nylon rudder on a stainless-steel shaft. To accomplish this, the Hydrovane uses a relatively large sensor vane, a semibalanced rudder, and a variable ratio in the vane-to-rudder linkage. This adjustable linkage–with three separate positions for light, moderate, and heavy air–controls the mechanical advantage that the vane has over the rudder, or how far the auxiliary rudder will turn as the vane tilts. Another feature is an adjustable axis on the sensor vane, which allows you to further match the steering impulse to wave and wind conditions.

Construction of the Hydrovane unit is cast LM5 anodized aluminum, silicon bronze, and 316 stainless steel. An endless line to the vane allows you to position the vane relative to the wind from the safety of the cockpit. The Hydrovane’s rudder can be easily centered for maneuvering in port or completely removed by simply pulling a pin.

Fleming Global Auxiliary Rudder: For boats that aren’t suited to its standard system, Fleming links its servo-pendulum windvane directly to an auxiliary rudder. Its auxiliary-rudder system uses the same high-quality stainless steel (2205 duplex-cast castings and 316 tubing) as the standard version we reviewed last month. It also carries the same array of stainless-steel bearings in Delrin races to reduce friction. An endless line led to the cockpit permits infinite course adjustment. Of the auxiliary-rudder systems we compared, the Fleming is the only one that has a hinged auxiliary rudder with overload protection. A shear pin offers impact protection, and the hinge makes it easy to lift the rudder out of the water. The servo rudder, which also has a shear pin for impact protection, easily swings out of the water–like the standard Fleming. You can also simply remove the servo-pendulum part of the system by undoing one bolt.

The linkage between the servo-pendulum rudder and the auxiliary rudder has a variable power ratio. This allows you to adjust how much rudder deflection there is for a given course error and lets you fine-tune steering characteristics to suit a variety of wind and sea conditions. A clutch system allows you to engage or disengage the servo blade under load.

Windpilot Pacific Plus: Windpilot takes its Pacific-series servo-pendulum vanes one step further by using a servo-pendulum system to drive an auxiliary rudder. The combined unit features the same construction details as the Pacific series: infinitely adjustable course setting, bevel-gear linkage between the vane and pendulum rudder, a lift-up pendulum rudder, and low-maintenance sleeve bearings. The body construction is high-grade AlMg5 aluminum-alloy castings. The linkage between the servo-pendulum and the auxiliary rudder is a bronze bevel gear that’s easily disengaged. Although you can easily fold up the servo-rudder, the auxiliary rudder is designed to stay in the water. You can, however, quickly center the rudder when the servo-pendulum rudder is in the raised position.

Darrell Nicholson is a Cruising World associate editor.

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The ULTIMATE in Sailboat Self-Steering

SAILOMAT is the world's leading professional design team and manufacturer specializing in state-of-the-art mechanical self-steering systems for all cruising sailboats.

Universally acknowledged among world cruisers as the most advanced self-steering systems available – a SAILOMAT is a masterpiece of design and function. The very high strength, built-in simplicity, simple mounting, reliability, and long life make SAILOMAT Self-Steering the distinguished leader in its field.

The most recent design is the SAILOMAT 800/760/700 series, based on 40 years of self-steering design experiences , practical testing and manufacturing under the group leadership of Dr. Stellan Knöös, both in Sweden and USA. The state-of-the-art and innovative SAILOMAT 800 system represents the next generation in sailboat self-steering.

The Ultimate in Sailboat Mechanical Self-Steering Custom Design and Manufacturing Worldwide sales Factory Direct Since 1974. San Diego, California, United States www.sailomat.com      [email protected]

Specifications

CONFIGURATION BY BOAT TYPE

This is a listing of some of the boats we have provided a Hydrovane for, showing the configuration used (Shaft Length, Upper Bracket, Lower Bracket). Please note that the same model boat does not necessarily use the same configuration – there are variables such as aerial obstructions and other boat-specific factors.

OVERALL DIMENSIONS

This schematic may be helpful for you to understand the fit requirements for the Hydrovane. We want to position the Hydrovane tiller at an appropriate height while also ensuring that the Vane has enough airspace. This schematic shows our Standard Vane.

The Drive Unit

Today’s Drive Unit is the VXA1 / VXA2 Model.

Both are variations on the only model available today, and since 1986. The majority of Hydrovanes sold are the VXA2 model; the remote course setting capability is well worth it. A VXA1 may be suitable for a smaller cruising boat with an arm’s reach from the cockpit to the Course Control Knob.

The Drive Unit is where the magic happens… it is the sophisticated linkage mechanism that multiplies the forces on the vane by many times.

The Shaft Assembly

The Hydrovane shaft assembly includes the shaft, the outer tube, and shaft bearings.

Older units: The shaft outer diameter will be either 1 1/8 in (28.575 mm) – out of production since 2002 – or 1 ¼ in (31.75 mm).

Since early 2009, all shafts are made of solid 1 ¼ in Ferrinox 225 ‘Super Duplex’ stainless steel – three times as strong as ‘316’.

All shafts are machined to 1 in (25.4 mm) at the top.

The tube has a 2″ outer diameter.

Shaft Required

The length required depends on the stern height, and if there are any aerial obstructions. The table below shows the required shaft length, assuming that for free vane movement the stern rail is not more than 24 in (610 mm) above the deck and does not project aft of the stern. Otherwise, the next longer shaft may be needed.

Shaft Lengths

These measurements are from tip to tip of the inner shaft. When the Drive Unit is fitted onto the shaft, about 8 inches (203 mm) of the shaft assembly is covered.

*In 2018 we added an extra 3mm to the top of the shaft (the part that is machined to 1″ OD). Below are the original tip to tip measurements.

The Hydrovane vane needs a lot of airspace – can be as tall as 12 ft / 4m above the water and more importantly it has a lateral reach of over 4 ft / 120 cm. in all directions at that height – yes, a full 360 degrees!

If your boat has:

• Bimini that reaches aft
• Arch supporting solar panels or communication gear
• Radar post/mast
• Wind Generator
• Any other aerial obstacles but not davits (normally are low enough)

…then we need photos taken at 90 degrees to the transom and from dead aft – showing from the water to the top of those obstacles – in order to properly configure an installation.

Boats with any of the above aerial obstructions often use the Stubby Vane.

Our newest Vane – the Extendable ‘XT’ vane – has many benefits, including more leverage/power, and the ability to be ‘reefed’ in heavy weather or on a certain point of sail if there is an aerial obstruction.

THE Brackets

Every installation requires two brackets – a combination of the three brackets we manufacture.  The brackets required are entirely dependent on the transom of your boat.

H ‘Hinged’ Bracket

Every installation must have at least one H Bracket. The ‘H’ bracket is located at about the closest point from the shaft to the stern.

E ‘Elbow’ Bracket

This is the single strut bracket.  It can be more difficult to install, but is less expensive than the A bracket.

• It is the only bracket without a hinge, meaning the angles are fixed and must be accommodated by using timber pad(s) to accommodate the contour of the hull and the difference in angles.
• Fixed Angles – Each of the castings at either end of the Strut (Stay Tube) hold the tube at an angle of 15 degrees. The result, depending on the direction the castings are positioned, creates aggregate angles of either 30 (15 + 15) or zero (15 – 15) degrees.
• The Strut is provided at a maximum length of 18”, to be cut down to required length.

A ‘Double Strut’ Bracket

The A bracket is our biggest, strongest, and most versatile bracket. The A bracket solves the most difficult installation issues.

• Arms swing up or down vertically
• Arms open in or out from 40 to 80 degree separation (as of summer 2013 – prior model fixed at 40 degrees)
• Transom attachment flanges fully rotate to become flush with any surface.
• Strength – Engineers love triangles
• Struts/tubes can be cut to any length. Struts are provided at 31”, to be cut down as necessary. Some installations require even longer tubes, which we can provide.

Mounting Pads

A Mounting Pad is a shaped piece of non-ferrous material (often teak wood or a synthetic like G10 Micarta or High Density Polyethylene – HDPE –   is used) that is fitted between the bracket flanges and the transom. The Mounting Pad is fashioned or shaped to pick up any contour differences between the flat flange face and the transom.

Mounting Pads may not be necessary for your installation – if the transom is perfectly flat.

We offer Mounting Pads in either Timber (teak) or Plastic (HDPE).

Making and shaping the pads can often be the most difficult part of the installation. If you choose to make your own, please find the templates below.

For shaping the pads, read the tips in our Installation Guide.

MORE INFORMATION

Helpful measurements.

• H bracket creates a distance from shaft to transom of between 1.5 in (3.8 cm) to 4.5 in (11 cm)
• The minimum distance required for an E bracket is 8in (20 cm)
• The minimum distance required for an A bracket is 16in (40 cm)
• The maximum exposed shaft between the top bracket and the drive unit is 18 in (46 cm)
• Space, distance between the bottom bracket and the bottom bearing: between 2 in and 10 in (5 cm and 25 cm)
• The minimum separation between the two rudders should be 8in (20 cm)
• Lighter – 66 lbs (30 kg) – S/H/H
• Average – 83 lbs (37 kg) – L/E/H
• Heavier – 113 lbs (51 kg) – X/A/H
• Shafts, axles and fastenings: 316 (EN58J) stainless steel except the main shaft which is Ferrinox 255 (Super Duplex), solid stainless
• Castings: LM25 anodized aluminum alloy and silicon bronze
• Bearings: Glass Filled PET, PFTE and Acetal (Delrin). Nylon ball race on rudder shaft.
• Rudder: Solid N6 nylon casting. Tapered NACA profile
• Wind Vane: Reinforced nylon cloth (ripstop) on anodized alloy tube frame
• Course control: 4 in (100 mm) oilon worm gear

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• Blue Water Sailing

Choosing and Understanding Self-Steering Gear

A guide to equipping your boat with an electronic autopilot or windvane: Part I  (published October 2013)

Since the earliest days of long-distance solo or shorthanded sailing, a variety of devices have been invented for holding a boat on her course without the need of a constant helmsman. One of the early—and for many boats, still useful—methods was called “sheet-to-tiller” steering, which balanced the forces on a mainsail’s sheet against a spring or shock cord to steer the tiller in the appropriate direction when the boat would heel and reverse the direction when she would start to round up. This is obviously a delicate balance that required careful and often time-consuming readjustment when a course change or wind shift occurred.

Along with sheet-to-tiller steering came windvanes, which use a variety of methods to transfer a course change into a rudder angle using various paddles or vanes attached at the stern of the boat. Then, with the dawning of reliable electronics came motor-driven electric “autopilots” with a variety of methods for operation and all with the requirement for electric power and various instrumentation sources.

Today, a dizzying array of self-steering gear exists and it’s often difficult to know where to start. Some kits costs more than a small boat, and others can be made or cobbled together from spare parts in a garage. But by understanding the principles, major options, advantages and caveats of the various gear on the market, a prudent skipper can choose the right self-steering gear for his or her boat with confidence, knowing it will suit the boat in all conditions.

MAJOR CONSIDERATIONS The major questions and choices when faced with the purchase of new self-steering gear are: What conditions the unit is expected to perform in; what are the possible failure modes, how to recover from them, and how to detect or prevent them when underway; whether to get an electronic unit, windvane or both; where to mount the components and how to attach them to the boat; and last but not least, how much should ongoing maintenance and the expected service life of the gear be considered?

I’ve listed the options in this order because the most important thing about self-steering gear is whether or not it suits the conditions it is expected to operate in, including whether or not it is a good match for the vessel. The decision between an electronic autopilot and a windvane can only be made when a skipper decides these other issues first. After that, the decision becomes a technical one between models and options.

In order to help the skipper understand which equipment makes a good match for what conditions and vessel, it’s helpful to go into some detail on the various components and options available. So in this first of two articles on the topic, let’s dive more deeply into the realm of the electronic autopilot.

WHY CHOOSE AN ELECTRONIC AUTOPILOT? Since ships started installing electrical equipment onboard, the electronic autopilot has become a go-to self-steering device for both sailors and powerboaters alike. Combined with an electric or optical compass, all an autopilot needs to keep a boat on a constant magnetic heading is electric power. With the advent of data networks aboard, wind and GPS instrumentation can be combined with the autopilot to steer to waypoints, maintain a constant wind angle like a wind vane, steer specific patterns in the sea (e.g. circles, grids, or holding position for fishing or search-and-rescue), and perform many other clever tricks that a simple wind vane cannot do. And, of course, the electronic autopilot can do all of this whether or not the wind is blowing. As a result, electronic autopilots are nearly ubiquitous on most modern sailboats.

Electronic autopilots require three main components: a drive unit, a compass—usually called a “fluxgate compass” or for short, “fluxgate”—and a processing module, or “brain”.  The processing module may or may not require a separate display and control interface, or it may incorporate it directly, and any or all of these components may be included in the same physical device. Make sure your autopilot package includes all of them though, or you may have to spend significantly more money later.

There are two major categories of electronic autopilots and quite a variety of options within those categories. The differences are crucial to your boat and to the system’s reliability, so it pays to at least take a cursory glance at some of these important details.

TILLER AND WHEEL PILOTS The most common category on small boats, a tiller or wheel pilot is an electronic motor attached to either a sliding lever or a spinning gear that is connected to the ship’s own tiller or wheel to physically move the boat’s rudder. Simple to install and easy to understand, these are typically the least expensive devices and are usually only reliable up to a certain amount of rough sea conditions, after which they often don’t have the power to keep handling the helm. In addition, they are constantly exposed to salt spray, and attachment and dismounting results in a certain amount of wear and tear over time. However, they are simple to understand and use and for smaller boats are often perfectly sufficient as long as the expectations on the system are reasonable. There are a few wheel units these days that have been used with success in heavy seas offshore, but they are rare and require a well balanced or easily helmed boat and are subject to limitations on rudder size and force.

Tiller and wheel pilots often, but not always, integrate the processing module and the drive unit in the same housing, simplifying use even further. They do not, however, offer anything in the way of redundancy over and above a ship’s own steering system, as they are dependent on that very system to perform their job.

Often, a skipper will fit a tiller or wheel pilot as a backup to a windvane when they decide that a wind vane is most suitable for their vessel.

BELOWDECKS PILOTS The common “upgrade” on a tiller or wheel pilot is to affix a control system belowdecks, often directly to the rudderstock itself as a backup to the ship’s main steering cables or tiller. This provides a degree of redundancy as well as protecting the main drive unit from the elements. In addition, because the system is permanently mounted, a larger and more durable motor and connection system can be fitted if desired, further increasing the reliability of the installation.

There are a variety of methods to attach these pilots to the rudderstock. The one you choose will likely be dictated by the type of steering your vessel already has, although you may have some choices between a few similar options.

For sailboats, the most common drive types are either rotary gear drive or linear drive. As the name suggests, rotary gear drive mechanisms have a motor with a reduction gear that, through a heavy chain, spins another gear affixed to the rudder shaft, similar to how a bicycle’s pedals spin the rear wheel through a pair of gears and a chain. Linear drive units work like a tiller pilot in that they extend or retract an arm that is affixed to a steering quadrant belowdecks. These can either use the existing quadrant on a rudderstock, or a special quadrant or lever arm can be bolted to the rudderstock specifically for the autopilot, like a miniature tiller belowdecks. Rotary gear systems are typically used with ships that have worm gear steering or similar solid-shaft coupling between a wheel and the rudderstock. Linear drives are more commonly used with cable steering.

There is usually only one option for boats with hydraulic steering, and that is an electronic hydraulic pump controlled by your autopilot. These can require special care during installation depending on if the existing system has proper backflow valves to allow for secondary control or not, and may require interlocks to be installed to prevent simultaneous operation of both hydraulic drivers at once. This is beyond the scope of this article though, so consult a knowledgeable steering gear installer for assistance with your particular hydraulic setup.

INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS Autopilots require careful mounting consideration, as the forces involved can be tremendous. Since modern belowdecks electronic pilots turn the main rudder directly they are subjected to the full force of the rudder, which, on a downwind run in heavy seas, can be severe. The mounting and rudder attachment for the drive unit is therefore critical and can involve construction of new structural framing, modification of the rudderstock to handle the additional loads or other significant rearrangements of existing equipment.

Mounting the processing module is less critical, but the display units definitely need to be accessible from the helm, and often, to maximize use of the self-steering gear, a belowdecks display and control station can duplicate what is at the helm.

Something to keep in mind with electronic autopilots is that, given the forces involved, they can require a substantial amount of energy to operate. As the seas get heavier, the unit has to work harder, which means the energy used by an autopilot increases. It is important then to pay close attention to your energy supply early and to monitor it more often as the seas build.

COMMON FAILURE MODES Electronic autopilots, while often quite reliable, are still mechanical and electrical devices and as such, have failures. Apart from the obvious need for a continuous and copious electrical power supply, they work with very delicate compass sensors and many types of drive units can be subjected to the wear and tear of every rudder movement whether they are in use or not. A failure in any one of these components can render the autopilot unable to operate, and failures in fluxgate compasses tend to be more common than manufacturers would like to admit. Also, wiring itself is subject to corrosion, accidental disconnection and chafe. All it takes is for a single control or power wire to become disconnected at the wrong time, say in heavy wind and a following sea, or when close to and passing a large vessel in a narrow channel, and the boat can be put in a dangerous situation very quickly. Thus, a prudent sailor treats the electronic autopilot like any other piece of gear and plans for failure while maintaining the equipment to the fullest.

One surprising failure mode I have had the misfortune to observe firsthand is with a hydraulic autopilot that was a separate system from a hydraulically steered boat. The systems worked perfectly when used independently and offered 100 percent redundancy in control—at least, as long as the boat had power and the rudder remained intact. But when the autopilot was engaged and the helm was touched by someone, the two immensely powerful hydraulic rams fought each other and the resulting back and forth vibration and side loading destroyed a rudder bearing in very short order. So it pays to have interlocks installed when other hydraulic steering systems may be in place simultaneously with a hydraulic autopilot.

Look for Part II in the November issue of BWS where we will cover windvane self-steering in detail, and consider how to best determine what you should be equipping on your own vessel.

Daniel Collins, an ASA certified sailing and navigation instructor, amateur extra class radio operator and small boat racer, enjoys experimenting with marine electronics. He is also actively involved in community-driven social change. Email him at [email protected] , or read his blog at www.oddasea.com .

Author: Daniel Collins

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Windvane steering: why it makes sense for coastal cruising

• Will Bruton
• October 15, 2018

No electricity needed, built for gale-force conditions and currently experiencing 
something of a renaissance amongst 
cruisers; windvane self-steering makes sense for coastal cruisers as much as 
offshore voyagers. Will Bruton took 
an in depth look at the options 
and how they work.

‘The distance run was 2,700 miles as the crow flies. During those 23 days I had not spent more than three hours at the helm. I just lashed the helm and let her go; whether the wind was abeam or dead aft, it was all the same: she always stayed on her course,’ wrote Joshua Slocum in 1895.

The ability of his long-keeled Spray to hold course without input from the helm was instrumental 
in making her the first yacht to circumnavigate single-handed.

Few modern boats bear these inherently balanced characteristics, so some form of autopilot is necessary to allow the skipper to rest.

Even for crewed passages, it can take an enormous strain off the crew without draining the battery. Some insurance companies even count windvane steering as an additional crew member, such is its contribution to life on board.

Unlike an electronic autopilot, self-steering needs no power

One solution experiencing something of a renaissance, is windvane self-steering.

Requiring no electricity, mechanical self-steering gear was first designed in an age when autopilots were the preserve of large ships and heavy motor cruisers. The principle is relatively simple and pure physics.

What mechanical self-steering cannot do is hold your yacht on a compass course. However, as anyone that’s experienced a sudden wind shift or squall whilst away from the helm knows, steering to a wind angle is preferable most of the time as you are far less likely to crash gybe, and the sails remain correctly set.

Self-steering gear achieves this by presenting a vane directly into the wind. When the wind acts on either side of this vane, it tips, transferring this action through the mechanism below to either a rudder or a servo pendulum which acts on the main rudder, altering the boat’s course.

The two main systems

Servo-pendulum

A derivative of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, servo-pendulum self steering gear uses the speed of the yacht going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the yacht’s own tiller or wheel by control lines.

The wind itself does not provide the power for the steering; rather it adjusts the angle of the paddle, relying on the hydro-mechanical energy of the boat going through the water to do the work of steering the boat.

Popular before the advent of the small craft electronic autopilot, it’s particularly well suited to yachts under 40ft in length, and can be swung out of the water when not in use.

There are now several derivatives, including some available as a self-build kit. Amongst the Golden Globe Race entrants, models included Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort systems.

One disadvantage of the servo-pendulum gear is that it uses the yacht’s rudder, meaning it does not double up as an emergency rudder should the yacht’s steering be disabled, although some servo-pendulums can be adapted.

Direct drive systems

Wind vane steering linked to a secondary rudder is the most inherently simple of the mechanical self-steering systems, but relies on a much more powerful transmission of force between a large-surface-area wind vane and the system’s own independent rudder.

Direct drive systems feature a large fully independent auxiliary rudder

This has the advantage of ensuring 
a back up steering method is already on board but also requires a heavy-duty installation to bear the load and strain that will be exerted.

One of the most popular models is the Hydrovane, which is now available in several different sizes and shapes depending on 
the boat it is being installed on.

The size 
and shape of the fabric-covered windvane is directly proportional to the size of yacht, and has been installed successfully on yachts in excess of 50ft in length, including multihulls.

When the boat veers off course, the 
wind hits the vane on one side or the other, deflecting it away from the vertical.

This then acts on a gear that converts 
this sideways movement into rotation to directly steer a relatively large rudder suspended from the boat’s transom via 
the installation framework.

Setting up windvane steering

Balancing the boat.

‘Before doing anything, you have to get the boat sailing well. It demands you take the time to get your boat properly balanced, correctly reefed and with no weather helms; so it actually makes you a better sailor!’ explains Nick Nottingham, who recently fitted a Hydrovane to his Hallberg-Rassy 42, Spellbinder . Nick is about to use the system on an Atlantic circuit.

Self-steering relies on a well balanced boat. As the wind shifts, the mechanism corrects

Self-steering gear works by adjusting the yacht’s course in relation to the apparent wind. The first step to making this work as efficiently as possible is to balance the boat and reduce the amount of input required.

Sailing conventionally, the yacht should be easy on the helm and not overpowered.

Setting the system for the conditions

Whether servo-pendulum or direct drive, most self-steering systems have one or more methods of adjustment for the conditions. In light airs, the wind vane will be exposed as much as possible to the wind, to exert the maximum force on the system, whereas in heavier weather, the vane’s height can be lowered, reducing the force acting on the system.

Some systems, like the Hydrovane, Monitor and Beaufort have different sized vanes that can be swapped, while the Windpilot and Aries allow the vane to be raked aft, presenting a shorter level.

With the wind vane attached, you are ready to remove the locking pin and engage the steering mechanism

On some set ups, the power exerted on the steering system can also be adjusted at the point where the wind vane meets its pivot, just like changing sensitivity on an electronic autopilot. By controlling the rotation of the rudder or paddle created by the windvane, you control how aggressively the system corrects the boat’s course.

Changing the gearing at the point where the wind input creates the steering output achieve an increase or decrease of ratio.

Engaging the system

To engage the system, set the yacht on course and adjust the wind vane so that the wind is flowing over it with the least resistance, like a blade.

If you a using a system with its own rudder, centralise and lock the yacht’s main rudder, simultaneously engaging the self-steering mechanism.

Once engaged, monitor how the system adjusts and double check your sails are trimmed correctly.

As the vane moves it will adjust the steering accordingly.

In heavy weather, reduce the system’s power to ensure the least amount of strain.

Self-steering systems work efficiently in strong winds but most will steer comfortably in light airs as well.

Course adjustments

When the wind vane is vertical, you are on course. When the vane is deflected, the system is adjusting course.

Changing the direction you want to go in is simply a matter of altering the self-steering system’s vane angle relative to the wind.

On most systems this is achieved by a steering line that can be run into the safety of the cockpit, meaning you do not necessarily need to adjust the vane itself directly.

Make small adjustments until the yacht comes onto the desired course, trimming the sails appropriately.

A standalone system?

Whilst self-steering systems offer a much more resilient option than an electronic autopilot for heavy weather, when there is no sailing wind, they cease to be useful.

Here an electronic tillerpilot has been plugged directly into the Hydrovane auxiliary rudder

For this reason, most cruisers also have a conventional electronic autopilot on board to steer under engine.

In the case of systems incorporating a rudder, many also make it possible to easily engage a tiller pilot onto the system’s auxiliary rudder for use under engine.

Self-steering on the Golden Globe Race

If there’s one place that mechanical 
self-steering fandom bordered on the evangelical this year, it was at the start of 
the Golden Globe Race .

50 years previously, Robin Knox-Johnston’s world first single-handed circumnavigation was steered by his own self-steering gear system until it failed 
near Australia.

Restored to her former glory, 
Knox-Johnston’s Suhaili joined the parade; along with Indian competitor Abhilash Tommy’s replica yacht Thuriya , which sports a commercially made Windpilot servo-pendulum system.

Self-steering gear on Suhaili. Credit: Nic Compton/Alamy Stock Photo

With this year’s revival competition using 1960’s technology and electronic wizardry strictly prohibited, mechanical self-steering systems are effectively the only option for competitors. Each has chosen carefully.

Competitors in the race are using a variety of systems including Hydrovane, Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort.

Due to the nature of the boats competing being long keeled, they are ideally suited to mechanical self-steering, naturally holding course better than a modern hull. However, should systems fail and prove unrepairable, it will be hard 
for them to remain competitive in the race.

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• Your Comprehensive Guide to Self-Steering for Sailboats

Self-steering systems are a sailor's best friend, especially on long voyages. They allow the boat to maintain a steady course without constant manual input, freeing up the crew for other tasks. Among the various self-steering mechanisms, windvanes are particularly popular.

What is a Windvane?

A windvane is a device used on sailboats to maintain a set course relative to the wind direction. It operates without electrical power, using the wind's force to steer the boat. The concept of windvane steering dates back to the early days of sailing, but modern advancements have significantly enhanced their efficiency and reliability. These devices are crucial for long-distance sailors, providing a hands-free solution to maintaining a steady course.

Types of Windvanes and How They Work

Windvanes come in two primary types: mechanical and electronic. Each type has its own set of advantages and considerations.

• Mechanical Windvanes : These rely solely on wind power and mechanical linkages to steer the boat. They are known for their simplicity and robustness, making them a favourite among traditional sailors.
• Electronic Windvanes : These systems use electronic sensors and actuators to adjust the steering. While they can be more precise, they also require a power source and can be more complex to maintain.

The operation of a windvane is based on a simple yet effective principle: using the wind's force to control the boat's rudder or trim tab. The windvane detects changes in wind direction and translates these into mechanical movements that adjust the boat's course. Key parts include the vane, a pivoting mechanism, and a linkage system connected to the rudder.

Advantages of Using Windvanes

Windvanes offer several benefits that make them indispensable for long-distance sailors:

• Energy Efficiency : Unlike electronic autopilots, windvanes do not require electrical power, making them ideal for long voyages where conserving battery life is crucial.
• Reliability and Durability : Mechanical windvanes are built to withstand harsh marine environments, ensuring long-term reliability.

Moreover, windvanes provide an eco-friendly solution to self-steering, harnessing the natural power of the wind and reducing reliance on the boat's power systems. This not only saves energy but also minimises the environmental footprint.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing tips, lifestyle and destinations in our Magazine .

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Popular Brands of Windvanes

Several manufacturers are renowned for their high-quality windvanes. Some of the leading brands include:

• Hydrovane : Known for its robust design and ease of use, Hydrovane systems are designed to be independent of the main steering system, providing an emergency backup.
• Monitor : Offers a range of windvanes praised for their precision. Monitor windvanes are highly regarded for their reliability and performance in various sailing conditions.
• Windpilot : Popular for their innovative features and reliable performance. Windpilot offers a variety of models tailored to different boat sizes and sailing needs.

Choosing and Installing the Right Windvane for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate windvane involves considering several factors, such as the size and type of your boat, typical sailing conditions, and budget. It's essential to match the windvane to your specific needs to ensure optimal performance.

Installing a windvane can be a DIY project for experienced sailors. Here’s a brief overview of the steps involved:

• Mounting the Vane : Secure the windvane to the stern of the boat, ensuring it is firmly attached to handle various sea conditions.
• Connecting Linkages : Attach the mechanical linkages to the rudder, making sure all connections are tight and secure.
• Calibrating the System : Adjust the settings to match your sailing preferences and ensure the windvane responds correctly to changes in wind direction.
• Testing : Conduct sea trials to ensure everything is working correctly, making any necessary adjustments to fine-tune the system.

Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Regular maintenance ensures your windvane operates smoothly and reliably:

• Routine Maintenance Tips : Clean and lubricate moving parts regularly, check for wear and tear, and tighten any loose fittings.
• Common Issues and Fixes : If the windvane fails to maintain course, check for obstructions, worn parts, or misalignments. Routine checks and timely repairs can prevent most issues from becoming significant problems.

Maintaining your windvane not only prolongs its life but also ensures it performs effectively when you need it most. Keeping a maintenance log can help track any issues and schedule regular upkeep.

Windvane vs. Electronic Autopilots

While both systems have their merits, comparing them can help you decide which is best for your needs:

• Pros and Cons : Windvanes are energy-efficient and reliable, while electronic autopilots offer greater precision. Windvanes are ideal for sailors looking for a low-maintenance and eco-friendly option, whereas electronic autopilots are better for those who prioritise convenience and precision.
• Cost Comparison : Consider the initial investment and long-term maintenance costs. While windvanes may have a higher upfront cost, their lack of power requirements can lead to savings over time.

Ultimately, the choice between a windvane and an electronic autopilot depends on your sailing style, the length of your voyages, and your personal preferences.

Windvanes are a vital tool for sailors, offering a reliable and energy-efficient way to maintain course during long voyages. Whether you opt for a mechanical system or an electronic one, understanding how windvanes work and choosing the right model for your boat can enhance your sailing experience. With proper maintenance and thoughtful selection, windvanes can provide years of dependable service, making your voyages smoother and more enjoyable.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

Denisa Nguyenová

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Needle bearings for SG-16 steering gear

By Vladislav May 25, 2012 in Driveline and Suspension

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I'm revising the steering gear of my NR 1945. The manual and the mark on the gear housing gives me the model of "SG-16" I suppose it must be close to some steering of L model, probably LJ. Looking ower them I noted the play of the sector shaft. Near 0.3 mm or 0.01 inches if you prefere. I don't know is this too much though I dont like and want to have it neither. The shaft is placed in two bearings of a special kind, with needles inside and the outside cap. Strange to me I've seen no wear on the shaft. Bearings are also look well. Although I hope it's better to renew them. Parts list (of 1942) gives me "Torrington #B-2824" and "Mack 67 AX 122". So looking for any ideas of how to get the bearings. Vlad.

Although the Mack designation for the steering gear is "SG-16", it is a "Ross" gear manufactured part. There should be numbers hand stamped into the housing. These numbers would be a very good thing to have for further research.

Rob, always thank you,

OD outer cap 54.1 mm - 2.13 In.

Length (depth) 38 mm - 1.496 in

Shaft ext.D 44.5 mm - 1.75 in

Bearing mark says "Terrington".

Have seen nothing about "Ross" including Parts list and a Manual.

All the stampes are readable at the picture if you download it and look with a high pixels.

Rob, always thank you, Bearing: OD outer cap 54.1 mm - 2.13 In. Length (depth) 38 mm - 1.496 in Shaft ext.D 44.5 mm - 1.75 in Bearing mark says "Terrington". Have seen nothing about "Ross" including Parts list and a Manual. All the stampes are readable at the picture if you download it and look with a high pixels. You can see also "Mack archemoid steering" but no "Ross" Vlad.

Having the actual bearing dimension is helpful as I've seen rebuilt steering gears use an oversized bearing. This happens when the unit is run dry of oil, the bearing freezes, and rotates in it's respective mounting bore. The bore size is then increased requiring an oversized bearing.

I'll try to get to this later this day and post back this evening.

I have two steering gears at the moment, both were made in 1945 and always the same excepting the aggregat number.

The first one (Russian) was full of water and rust.

The second from the spare ex-French army truck is rust and wear- free.

Although don't understand the reason of the play. Both have it of equal amount.

One set of warm and sector is very good so I don't want to machine them.

I can rebore the hole in the body to fit owersize bearings but not the gear set.

I have to say Rob, you are very good guy, and I mean not only a help to me but to many others.

That is a common bearing. The cost is $13.93 with about a 10 day wait to get it to me. They have 93 in stock. If you would like I'll get the bearing coming to my shop, (they won't ship out of country) and I'll get it coming your way. Should you need it faster there will be some freight added to the cost.

I'd need your mailing address.

I don't need it faster because of Russian post shipping up to 8 weeks (3-4 is very good).

I have lots of to do about my project so it's not a matter of time.

Can pay by PayPal immediately or by a credit card.

There'll be a shipping cost you'll have to add, any your working time for this story is a value also, no problems.

So I need two of.

The adress is Moscow, Russia. I'll send you it full in PM.

I would like it all,

Maybe I have a reason to look for a seal for same place?

Rob, I don't need it faster because of Russian post shipping up to 8 weeks (3-4 is very good). I have lots of to do about my project so it's not a matter of time. Can pay by PayPal immediately or by a credit card. There'll be a shipping cost you'll have to add, any your working time for this story is a value also, no problems. So I need two of. The adress is Moscow, Russia. I'll send you it full in PM. I would like it all, Vlad. Maybe I have a reason to look for a seal for same place?

The working size of the seal is the same as the bearing - 1 3/4.

Outside diametr is 2 1/8 for using with original retainer (it's better)

or 57.2 mm = 2 1/4 in. for direct fit into a body.

The depth is 5/16 for use with a retainer or up to 10 mm naked.

The original seal number is probably too old, it was made of clothes - 88AX23.

The working size of the seal is the same as the bearing - 1 3/4. Outside diametr is 2 1/8 for using with original retainer (it's better) or 57.2 mm = 2 1/4 in. for direct fit into a body. The depth is 5/16 for use with a retainer or up to 10 mm naked. The original seal number is probably too old, it was made of clothes - 88AX23. Vlad.

This is an oil seal. The gear works with a transmission oil or a sort of.

Original seal isn't an interesting thing because it's relatively working part made of textile wire a bit less then 70 years ago.

I'm looking for a rubber one with a spring. And your dimensions were perfect.

My need is one piece only.

This is an oil seal. The gear works with a transmission oil or a sort of. Original seal isn't an interesting thing because it's relatively working part made of textile wire a bit less then 70 years ago. I'm looking for a rubber one with a spring. And your dimensions were perfect. My need is one piece only. Vlad.

I really have too much questions and will ask if you have any time for.

Waiting for bearings.

Have to go for a sleep soon, now is about 11 pm at me.

Thanks a lot.

I really have too much questions and will ask if you have any time for. Waiting for bearings. Have to go for a sleep soon, now is about 11 pm at me. Thanks a lot. Vlad

• 1 month later...

Have steering parts sand blasted and painted.

Waiting for bolts and nuts are ready from halvanic in days.

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Truck Trial race in Moscow

By zver , July 7, 2015 in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling

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Zver   .

Let me share the

All trucks are powered with PF-motors. My crawler was controlled with SBrick.

I hope you'll enjoy it :)

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really cool :) id love to partecipate in something like this!

just a question: why are all the models so slow? i mean, of course they're crawlers but for obstacles shown in the video something faster than that would have worked just fine :P

750ACE   

The truck at 10:00 min mark interests me. I am curious about the dual differentials inside the cab and how they work together and what point they serve.

Dans lego   

The route wasn't so easy in fact. And models met difficulties on some obstacles. It was interesting to watch in reality, but looks dull on video. So I've cut these moments to make video more dinamic.

Anyway Snake's, AmbiDexter's and my crawlers have a "cross-country ability" reserve, and can overcome more difficult routes. But we had different types of trucks on the race and decided to make a route applicable for all. I think we'll make more hardcore next time :)

I believe they act as some form of a CVT ( continuously variable transmission) I agree very interesting !

You are right. It was a form of CVT (not very productive in practice). I'll ask the author were you can get some detailed description.

jorgeopesi   

I prefer trial truck races when everyone uses the same Lego parts, that is the challenge of design that breaks when using another parts.

We have followed this principle for a few years. But native lego-tyres limits models' abilities considerably. And we decided to allow non-lego (RC) tyres. But herewith the participant who uses non-lego tyres is fined severely. That is why Snake and I haven't won this race :)

braker23   

That was a truly awesome track, crossing a river is a great idea,congrats guys ;)

What intrigued me the most is the steering solution several participants used. I never saw a small actuator used this way, and I love it! Can someone please share the instructions for this?

Here it is:

More photos on bricktrucktrial.com

I've made an adjustable rigidity of front suspension on this crawler. I'll add some photos a bit later.

Photo1 Photo2

Here it is: More photos on bricktrucktrial.com I've made an adjustable rigidity of front suspension on this crawler. I'll add some photos a bit later.

Thanks a lot zver, but I am really interested to build the other variant, with the M motor placed on the axle, who has more photos of that?

Rockbrick   

the small LA means less torque steer too (or bump into a stone steer)

The only advantage of smal LA is it's low size and weight. Small LA is too slow for steering. I thought to replace the XL-motor with the buggy-motor but I'll have to make the steering faster too. And small LA won't be suitable.

I've made several front axle types since the first version of crawler in 2011:

type 1 with some complex reductor

type 2 with worm/24 gear box

type 3 with worm/16 gear box (good speed/torque balance)

type 4 with small LA (the most compact and light)

The only advantage of smal LA is it's low size and weight. Small LA is too slow for steering. I thought to replace the XL-motor with the buggy-motor but I'll have to make the steering faster too. And small LA won't be suitable. I've made several front axle types since the first version of crawler in 2011: type 1 with some complex reductor type 2 with worm/24 gear box type 3 with worm/16 gear box (good speed/torque balance) type 4 with small LA (the most compact and light)

Thanks a lot for the detailed photos, you have built some pretty unique steering systems, I have a lot to learn from you. Build mode ON!

Here are a few more photos of different steering system types . They may be interesting for you too.

This is just awesome, I saw some impressive techniques there, I hope I hate time to try at least 2 of these. Thanks again!

Smart differential is coming soon... :)

AndyCW   

Looks fun. I wish that kind of competition were around here. At least I don't have to worry about breaking construction rules when there is no structured competition.

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