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How to Pick an Anchor Rope Size, Type, Length and More

Every anchor needs to be attached to the boat some how. In this article we'll discuss everything anyone ever needed to know about anchor rode.

Video: Everything You Need to Know About Anchor Rode

The video below answers many of the topics addressed here although the article goes into more detail (so there is some reward for reading!).

What is anchor rode?

Rode simply refers to the line and/or chain that connects the anchor to your boat. (Believe it or not,   rode   is not a typo!)

Ideally, the rode for any anchor setup should consist of both chain and rope. The chain should be on the end with the anchor. Why use both chain and rope? First, it keeps the nylon rode from wearing away by rubbing on the bottom of the sea-floor as the boat swings. Second, because the chain is heavy, it holds the rode to the bottom so the pull on the anchor is horizontal, which reduces the chances of your anchor unsetting.

What type of rope should I use? Nylon, Polyester, or ...?

For most boaters, the best type of rope to use when anchoring is nylon. Nylon has many advantages for anchoring including:

• It's elastic therefore offering good shock absorption
• Light and flexible
• Good strength
• The most common anchor rope found in marine stores

Nylon anchor rope is light, flexible, strong, and provides elasticity, which mitigates peak loads on your anchor and boat. Unfortunately, the very fact that nylon stretches means that it creates heat and will eventually break down and need to be replaced. However, you want a strong rope that will absorb the shock from waves and sink, not float. Nylon fits the bill of all of these things.

What's the difference between braided and twisted rope?

In our experience, for most recreational boaters, the difference between using twisted anchor rope or braided anchor rope comes down to preference and taste. Both make excellent choices for an anchor rope but there are some subtle differences between these two styles of rope.

Braided Rope

• Less stiff and more flexible
• Frequently stronger than twisted rope
• Easier on the hands
• Difficult to splice
• Less stretch than twisted rope

Twisted Rope

• Fairly easy to splice
• Generally less expensive
• Has more stretch than braided
• Has a tendency to kink or hockle
• More stiff and less flexible

How much anchor rope do I need and what size?

One of the questions we get asked most often is, "How much anchor rope and/or chain do I need?" When selecting how much rope and chain you need there are a couple of rules of thumb to use.

• You should have 8 feet of rope for every 1 foot of water you will be anchoring in
• Your rope should have 1/8" of rope diameter for every 9' of boat.

So this means a 28' boat would want at least a 3/8" or 1/2" diameter rope. Rope is one of those things, like anchors, where bigger normally is better.

As for a rope choice, Nylon is the clear favorite due to the fact it is elastic and relatively strong,

How much anchor chain do I need and what size?

Along with the rope, you should also have a smaller amount of chain between the rope and the anchor. This chain will keep your rope from rubbing against the seabed and also creates the optimal angle between your rode and the seabed. The general rule of thumb is that you want approximately 1' of chain for every 1' of boat. So a 30' boat would want 30' of chain. However, often certain constraints such as weight and locker room will not allow this ideal chain amount so in these situations you should have at least 10-15' of anchor chain for the reasons mentioned above. For boaters anchoring in extreme conditions and/or for extended periods of time, you will want about 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope. The reason for the different requirements is that, in theory, by having 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope, an optimal angle between the rode and the seabed will be achieved.

What type of chain do I need? (I   am not   using a windlass)

If you're not using an anchor windlass, your life is easy! Any chain that you can buy at a marine store that follows the size rules above should be adequate. Hardware store chain can also sometimes suffice but you should always be conscious of the breaking strength of it and ensure that it is   galvanized . If you are not using a windlass, you can simply attach your rope to your anchor using a shackle in between (ideally your rope will have an eye and/or thimble spliced into one end to make attaching a shackle easy.

What type of chain do I need? (I   am   using a windlass)

If you are using an anchor windlass then your choices are limited and you must use only the type and size of chain specified by the windlass manufacturer. Normally this type of chain will be G4 or BBB chain. Don't have your windlass manual? We have an article that lists the  type and size of chain required by most popular sizes of windlass here . Windlass chain is a whole other topic and in fact, we have another article  all about windlass chain here . If you are using a windlass, remember that you must  splice   your rope to your chain as a shackle going through your windlass gypsy will be bad news. (You can also hook the shackle around your windlass as well once it gets to that point but that's a pain!) You can purchase a prespliced rope and chain package or you can  splice your own .

Published May 01, 2018

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Anchor Line

Aamstrand Anchor Line 3 Strand Twisted Nylon - White

Aamstrand 3 Strand Twisted Nylon Anchor Line - White Aamstrand anchor lines are made from three strands of twisted nylon rope that lasts as much as 10 times longer than manila rope and 5 times longer than polypropylene ropes. Its long service life makes...

TRAC Anchor Rope

TRAC Premium Anchor Rope The TRAC Premium Anchor Rope works for all brands of electric anchor winches in fresh and salt water use. Features a professional eye splice, stainless steel thimble, and traditional thread whipping to secure the thimble and...

Gen3 Marine 3-Strand Twisted Nylon Anchor Line - White

Gen3 Marine 3-Strand Twisted Nylon Anchor Line - White Gen3 Marine twisted anchor line is made of 100% 3-strand twisted nylon. Manufactured to be tough and long lasting, Gen3 anchor line is resistant to mildew, rot, oil, and other chemicals...

Lewmar Premium 3-Strand Anchor Rodes

Lewmar Premium 3-Strand Anchor Rodes - Marine Grade with Rope & Galvanized Chain Lewmar anchor rodes are a great economical choice for boaters looking for a windlass rode. These rodes are designed to work with the rope-chain gypsies fitted to all...

Tuggy Products Anchor Buddy

Tuggy Anchor Buddy Stretching Anchor Rope The Anchor Buddy is the anchor rope that stretches! The poly-covered bungee cord stretches from 14' to 50'. Anchor Buddy takes the shock out of your anchor line and makes it much easier to anchor offshore...

Lewmar 8 Plait Anchor Rode

Lewmar Anchor Line 8 Plait Lewmar Anchor Rodes feature 8 plait nylon line joined with a tapered splice to ACCO Hi-Test hot-dipped galvanized chain. Each anchor rode comes with a shackle to attach the chain to the anchor. Anchor rodes complement rope...

Gen3 Marine 3-Strand Twisted Nylon Anchor Line - Black

Gen3 Marine 3-Strand Twisted Nylon Anchor Line - Black Gen3 Marine twisted anchor line is made of 100% 3-strand twisted nylon. Manufactured to be tough and long lasting, Gen3 anchor line is resistant to mildew, rot, oil, and other chemicals...

Gen3 Marine Double Braid Nylon Anchor Line - Black

Gen3 Marine Double Braid Nylon Anchor Line - Black Gen3 Marine double braid anchor line is made of 100% premium double braid nylon. Manufactured to be tough and long lasting, Gen3 anchor line is resistant to mildew, rot, oil, and other chemicals...

Sea Dog Twisted Nylon Anchor Line

Sea Dog 3-Strand Twisted Nylon Anchor Line This Sea Dog Twisted Nylon Anchor Line is constructed of 100% premium twisted three-strand nylon. Nylon ropes are long-lasting and have a longer working life than manila and polypropylene ropes. Line is...

Gen3 Marine Bungee Anchor Line

Gen3 Marine Bungee Anchor Line The Gen3 Marine Bungee Anchor Line is a durable anchor rope that stretches to absorb shock to boats, cleats, and other hardware. This bungee anchor line is a great option for anchoring your boat at the beach. The anchor...

Davis Secure Chafe Guard

Davis Secure Removable Chafe Guard Pair Chafe protection is critical at the dock, at anchor, or on a mooring. The Chafe Guard is a good solution to prevent chafing over a cleat, cap rail, where two lines cross or at the anchor roller. Dock lines can be...

Aamstrand Anchor Line Hollow Braid Poly with Snap Hook

Anchor Line Hollow Braid Poly with Snap Hook These anchor lines come equipped with a spliced in snap hook on one end. Great for small boats and mushroom style anchors.

Davis Shockles LineSnubber

Davis Shockles LineSnubber The Davis Shockles LineSnubber is used as shock absorbers on dock lines and anchor lines to reduce loads, minimize chafe, and increase safety. Tensions and loads on a dock or mooring change as tidal surges, wakes, winds, and...

Custom Cordage Double Braid Anchor Line - White

Custom Cordage Double Braid Anchor Line. Double Braided. White

Starbrite White Dip-It Whip-It

Starbrite White Dip-It Whip-It Starbrite Dip-It Whip-It is the quick and easy way to finish rope ends. Rope end whipping makes a perfect rope end every time. Prevents unraveling Forms a permanent, flexible coating Color: White Click to Download...

Gen3 Marine Double Braid Nylon Anchor Line - White

Gen3 Marine Double Braid Nylon Anchor Line - White Gen3 Marine double braid anchor line is made of 100% premium double braid nylon. Manufactured to be tough and long lasting, Gen3 anchor line is resistant to mildew, rot, oil, and other chemicals...

Airhead Anchor Bungee 7-22'

Airhead Anchor Bungee 7-22' Airhead's Anchor Bungee is a bright red and yellow bungee that enables you to tether your boat offshore, away from a beach or rocky shoreline without having to swim or use a dinghy! Connect an anchor to your boat with the...

Tuggy Products Anchor Buddy Mini

Tuggy Products Anchor Buddy Mini for PWCs Miniature Anchor Buddy for your PWC "Mini Buddy" S-T-R-E-T-C-H-E-S as you go to shore. "Mini Buddy" Retracts as you pull on your bow line. Available in multiple colors

Gen3 Marine Double Braid Nylon Anchor Line - Gold/White

Gen3 Marine Double Braid Nylon Anchor Line - Gold/White Gen3 Marine double braid anchor line is made of 100% premium double braid nylon. Manufactured to be tough and long lasting, Gen3 anchor line is resistant to mildew, rot, oil, and other chemicals...

Davis DockShockle 12"

Davis DockShockle 12" The Davis Instruments DockShockle is a simple and safe solution for reducing dangerous shock loads and minimizing stress on lines. Additionally, the DockShockle reduces chafe, resulting in longer lasting lines. You can use the...

The phrase “Anchors Aweigh” is music to the ears of boaters and passengers when they are ready to get underway for their boating excursion. This phrase means raising or hoisting the anchor. This is done by lifting the anchor line or anchor rope to dislodge the anchor from the bottom. It is important to make sure you trust your line and it is strong enough to withstand repeat use. At Wholesale Marine we understand how important all your anchoring parts are and we carry an extensive line of anchor lines and ropes, anchor rodes, and anchor hooks to meet all your anchoring needs. We offer the best brands such as Davis Instruments , Lewmar Marine , Tuggy Products , and many more brands.

Choosing the Anchor Line You Need

Anchor parts and accessories come in a variety of styles, shapes, lengths, materials, and designs. The anchor rode is the line of chain or rope that connects the anchor to your vessel and it is important to select the right type for your boat. Nylon is a popular lightweight choice because of its flexibility, and elasticity. A great economical option is the Aamstrand Anchor Line . It is made with 3-strand twisted nylon and is made to absorb the sudden shocks anchor ropes endure and is made to outlast ropes of other materials. The line is also designed to resist the effects of the underwater elements that cause mold and mildew. If your boat uses an electric anchor winch, be sure to check out the TRAC Anchor Rope , This durable option is made from polypropylene blend material with a 700lb break strength and comes with a stainless steel anchor shackle. For small boats, the Davis Dock Shockle is a great option for quick and easy attachment and the Davis Secure Chafe Guard is a great add on to any anchor line to prevent chafing.

Not sure which anchor rope or line is best for your boat? Wholesale Marine knows all the right questions to ask to help you determine which is right for you. We are here to guide you through the whole process and all your boating needs. Call Us Monday through Friday from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM at 877-388-2628. Free shipping on all orders over $99 with same day no-hassle shipping. Don’t forget to check out our Captain’s Clube for additional savings on future orders.

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8 Best Anchor Rope for Boats 2021 – (Reviews & Buying Guide)

Riding on the waves, feeling the wind, looking at the reflection of the sun on the water surface. It sounds like the top day off. But at the end of the day, you need to go to the pier and drop the anchor. If you want to be assured that your boat does not go away in the night, you definitely need the best anchor rope and anchor chain.

What types of ropes and chains can you find? How to pick the finest one for your boat? How to take proper care of the anchor supplies?

Our team has done some research, collected interesting facts, valuable information and some anchor rope and anchor chain reviews. All this can help the readers to choose the right item for their boat.

Best Anchor Rope And Anchor Chain Comparison Chart

Best Anchor Ropes & Anchor Chain Reviews (New List)

This is where we will begin reviewing the top products. First, we will see which are the best anchor ropes out there and then will proceed to anchor chains.

1. Norestar Braided Anchor with Thimble

Another advantage is the double braid construction which makes it more sturdy in the long run and eliminates tangling issues. Also, they can stretch without damaging the fiber.

Norestar Anchor line comes with a stainless steel thimble that will not only make attaching the rope to anchor quick and straightforward but also durable. They offer a range of different diameter sizes and lengths to meet the needs of small and big boats.

One point to note here is that the rope is not designed to be used for a windlass.

• Integrated stainless steel thimble
• Double braid construction
• A wide range of diameter sizes
• Difficult to unwind as it is not on a spool

2. SeaSense Hollow Brad Anchor Line

The rope already has a sliced end with a plated steel spring hook so that you can connect the rope to the anchor effortlessly. The break strength of the rope is 580 pounds, and the recommended safe working load is 63 pounds. It is true that the hollow braid construction is advantageous when it comes to durability, but on the downside, the rope tends to get hard when submerging in the water for a long time which makes it difficult when pulling up the anchor.

While it might not be strong enough for bigger boats, it performs reliably for small boats and is durable. Bear in mind that the rope is not intended for overnight use.

• Exceptionally lightweight
• Spring hook sliced end
• Hard to pull up the anchor due to the hollow construction.
• Limited for small and light boats only

3. Attwood Solid Braid MFP Anchor Line

The rope is 100 feet long, and the diameter is 3/8 inches which are pretty standard measures. The breaking strength is 250 pounds which means it is most suited for lightweight boats and anchors. Again, it might not be sturdy enough in a strong current or rough water.

You can conveniently connect the rope to the anchor as it comes with a stainless steel thimble which is 3 inches long and 28/5 inches wide. This is another added advantage as the thimble will not succumb to corrosion when used in saltwater.

• Lightweight
• Floatable and easy to handle
• Stainless steel thimble
• Competitive price
• Limited breaking strength

4. Extreme Max BoatTector Double Braid Anchor Line

The anchor line is made from premium nylon which is resistant to saltwater, oils, mildew, acids, and UV. Moreover, the double braid construction makes the line stretch less and leads to better resistant to shock absorption. All these features clearly reflect the durability of the anchor line. You can choose from a range of sizes and length that fits your needs.

For convenience as well as stability the rope has a stainless steel thimble on the one end, and the other end is made to hold together employing whipping. This will not only ease attaching the anchor but also prevent unraveling.

• Whipping at both ends to fend off fraying
• Double braid nylon construction
• Extremely high breaking strength
• Not very convenient to unroll

Anchor Chains

As promised, we are moving on to the top anchor chains available. Let’s find out if you like any of them.

1. Seachoice Galvanized Anchor Lead Chain

The workload limit is 1250 pounds and has a breaking strength of 5000 pounds. This indicates the suitability for a more massive anchor. Moreover, the high working load limit will be able to tackle harsh marine conditions giving you more versatile.

The chain is about 3 feet long and 1/4 inches thick. It has a shackle with 3/8 inches pin in place and an inside clearance of 1-1/4 inches. These are standard sizes and will fit almost all anchors or thimbles depending on where you are connecting it to. The chain is lightweight weighing 2 pounds which will be advantageous while retrieving anchor as it puts less strain on your arm.

• Well-built and durable
• High workload limit
• Made from galvanized lead and will not rust
• A longer length would have been more favorable.

2. Extreme Max BoatTector Anchor Chain

The chain is 4 feet long and weighs 1.5 pounds, and this is considered relatively lightweight. This gives you the option to consider using only chains for your anchor line instead of connecting to anchor rope without worrying so much about the weight. Moreover, with the shackles on each end, you can easily connect the links and customize your own desired length.

The breaking length of the chain is 3200 pounds, and the working load limit is 800 pounds. With such high breaking strength, the chain can stand up to strong current and rough sea. It will be ideal for marine anchoring applications.

It is important to note that the chain is not rated for an overhead lifting application.

• Very sturdy
• Marine-grade stainless steel construction
• Comparatively more expensive

3. US Stainless 316 Anchor Chain

They are cut explicitly for anchor chain and should not be used for overhead lifting.

The chain comes with shackles on each end and can conveniently attach it to anchor and thimble. Each shackle is 3/8 inches, and the length of the chain without the shackles is 6 feet. The link size is 5/16 inches.

One unique feature of this anchor chain is that the breaking load of the chain and the shackles are different and worth noting. The chain-breaking load is 7120 pounds, and that of the shackle is 9460 pounds. It is evident that the chain doesn’t lack strength and will be suitable for a heavy anchor.

• Made from AISI 316 stainless steel
• Corrosion-resistant
• Shackles on each end
• High-priced

4. Extreme Max BoatTector Vinyl Coated Anchor Chain

The anchor chain is 1/4 inches thick and  4 feet long. This is a standard size chain and will fit most anchors. It doesn’t come with shackles but rather has enlarged links on either end. This way you can attach shackles easily.

The working load limit is 1250 pounds, and the breaking point is limited to 5000 pounds. This means the chain is strong enough for a more massive anchor to keep the vessel steady. The weight of the chain is 2.78 pounds which is an average weight, and you will have no problem retrieving the anchor from the water.

The chain is not designed to be used for overhead lifting.

• Vinyl coating to protect the outer surfaces of the boat
• Galvanized to prevent rust
• The shackle is not included

What Are The Anchor Rope And Anchor Chains?

Types Of Anchor Ropes And Anchor Chains

One of the most essential supplies for your boat  is the right kind of anchor rode so you can feel safe and sure about it. Here we are going to introduce you to the types of these supplies.

Anchor Ropes

• Three lay nylon rope

Easy to repair and splice, very stretchable. The strength is significant for the size. An excellent choice for longer trips. But this type of rope is susceptible to chafe. Be careful and always check the line and repair it, when needed.

• Megaplait nylon rope

It is made by small strands of nylon weaved together. More resistant to chafe than three lays, but enough to take in the shock loads. But more expensive than the three lay one as well. To repair mega plait can be very problematic, but it is still an excellent option for long trips.

• Double braid line

This line protects the core from chafe, but this makes it impossible to inspect the rope, so this increases the risk of breaking. The shock load is higher than the other types of lines. This one is an excellent choice for few hours spends on the hook, but if you are planning to spend more time, you may need some of the other ropes, or even a chain rode.

Knowing all about chain types will help you choose the finest one for your needs. So let’s highlight a few, shall we?

The cheapest and weakest one. Made of carbon steel, it has also a protective galvanized coat to protect the chain from corrosion.

BBB type is made of carbon steel too, and every link is tested, that’s why the chain is stronger than others. It is more expensive than the previous one that we mentioned. It has the same weight per foot, but it gets tested before going out on the market.

• High Tensile

Made from high-class heat-treated and high tensile strength carbon alloy. Very strong, small rings can carry less weight per foot, and it is harder to replace, but still is an excellent choice for your anchor.

Quick Tip: It is better for you to use both rope and chain for the anchor rode. It will be better – safe and secure.

Benefits Of Anchor Rope And Anchor Chain

• The chain allows a faster anchor setting.
• The rope is elastic and helps the anchor when you are pulling it up or down.
• The chain protects the rope from a sharp object and/or debris from the underwater, that can damage the anchor, or the whole rode.
• It is harder to lose your anchor when using both rope and chain.
• The size of the chain and rope matter! Always choose the right size and length of the rope so you will not lose your anchor. The correct length will help you to reach the bottom, and your vessel will stay in its place long enough.
• Strength matters too! Always check the strength of the chain. It must be equal to the size and weight of the boat.

As you already saw, it is better to use both rope and chain. Here are some disadvantages of using only one of them.

• Using only a chain, when there is a light wind, can give the anchor horizontal pull and not the finest holding.
• It is necessary to absorb the shock, and using only a chain does not allow this.
• The rope is not strong.
• You can lose your anchor.
• Only the rope is useful if you stop for an hour or so, but if staying for longer, it can break.
• The nylon rope absorbs water. It becomes weak when it is wet.
• The synthetic ropes lose their strength when the temperature is above 150°F.

Here are some important features about the anchor rope and anchor chain.

• Length – Always check the length and if it is suitable for your needs.
• Strength – You are going to the wild sea or just in the lake for a few hours? Both cases need different types of ropes and chains because the water is different. The strength is an essential feature here.
• Combination – As we already mentioned, the perfect case is to use both – rope and chain – but you need the right combination. Check the details about the line and the chain, how strong they are and how elastic they are so you can make the right combination.
• Using more chains than rope is better for bigger and heavier boats.
• Using more rope is better for smaller vessels and shorter trips.

Maintenance

It is essential to know how to take care of your chain . Here we are going to introduce you to some details about maintaining the rope, the chain because even the best boat anchor is useless if your rope or chain busts.

• Check and clean the chain
• Remove the anchor and the chain and clean it properly.
• Inspect all the chain for damages.
• Pay attention for a bad link! If you are not sure that all of the chains are good, change some of them. If it is broken, you can lose your anchor!
• Do not use assertive detergent – it can damage the galvanizing zinc.
• If you feel insecure about the rope – just change it.

Installation

The installation of the anchor rode is pretty straightforward. Just find the right type of rope and chain and attach the chain to the anchor and the line to the vessel. After you do it, you will be ready to go in the sea and after that – to throw down the anchor! Check the manual and/or the instructions of the anchor to be sure you are doing it right.

Safety Tips

Here are some tips for safety trips!

• Always check the rode before going in the water!
• When choosing the right type of rode, think of:
• Where are you going?
• How long is your boat?
• How big is your boat?
• How deep will the water be?
• How strong rope do you need?
• How strong chain do you need?
• Take proper care of the chain.
• If there is rust on the chain – change it! You can easily do that even while the anchor is down with if you got some lovely underwater boat lights .
• If the rope does not seem reasonable and reliable – change it!
• Have a spare chain/rope in your boat. This can be a lifesaver! In the case of break-down, it will be useful to be prepared and have a spare one.
• Change the anchor rode in a period!
• It is better to use both chain and rope for your anchor!

Well done, you guys, you have successfully finished our buying guide on finding the best anchor rope and anchor chain . Having read our reviews on the best anchor rope and anchor chain and our additional information and tips, you now realize that finding a reliable product can be a bit hard.

Choosing the right type of rope/chain, or even better – buying them both, taking proper care for your supplies, install the anchor rode safe and following some safety rules will definitely help you to spend your time in the water trouble-free.

Go for the adventure, take all the supplies you need for the best experience, do not forget the life-vest and enjoy your trip! Thanks for reading and as always – stay put!

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Ranking The 11 Best Boat Anchor Ropes for 2024

Rainier Supply Double Braided Nylon Anchor Rope

SeaSense Hollow Braid Anchor Line Polypropylene

Extreme Max BoatTector Anchor Line

Choosing a good anchor line shouldn’t be a hassle. It’s anchor line, you just want it to hold an anchor ! You don’t want to invest a lot of time or effort into getting the right one. But if you get the wrong one, you’ll know. Bad anchor lines can break too easily. They also knot and tangle. They can be hard to coil or they break down in just a season or two. Some will work with an anchor winch or windlass. Others will not.

Luckily, there are just a few factors you can look for to ensure you’re getting the right anchor rope for your boat. Let’s check out the best anchor rope on the market.

Rainier Supply’s double braided anchor rope has a lot going for it. It’s nylon, which we think is the best material for rope out there. It’s double braided, which means a lot of strength. It’s also a great price, which rounds everything out.

You can pick this up in either ¼ inch or ⅜ inch diameter. It comes in 50 foot lengths. So if you have a massive yacht, this is not the line for you. But for those of us who are heading out fishing in a jon boat , a pontoon boat, or just an aluminum fishing boat , this is great.

And what if you do have a bigger boat or want deeper waters? You can buy spools of the same line at 100 feet and 150 feet as well.

With a tensile strength of 1574 pounds, this leaves polypropylene lines in the dust. The working load of the ¼ line is 374 lbs. If you choose the 3/8 inch rope it’s up to 820 lbs.

It comes with a stainless steel thimble and snap hook. That makes connecting your anchor a breeze. It’s easy to swap out the hook and attach a chain as well. When you attach a chain to an anchor rope, the technical name is anchor rode.

Because the line is nylon, it can handle a lot of abuse. It’s resistant to abrasion, UV rays and chemicals. It also won’t bunch and tangle easily. In fact, it’s very easy to handle but it can be slippery when it’s wet, so keep that in mind.

For the quality and the price, you’re not likely to find a better marine anchor rope out there. Rainier is an American company that was founded by boaters. You can tell this line was designed by people who understand the needs of a boater.

• Buy on Amazon   →
• $30.99 Walmart   →

Not everything on your boat needs to cost a fortune. Anchor line doesn’t have to break the bank to get the job done. That’s where SeaSense comes in with their hollow braid anchor line. For the price, this may just be the best anchor line out there.

Made of polypropylene, this is lightweight and easy to use. It’s easy on the hands and fairly easy to cut as well. Just remember to wrap the end with tape and melt it if you do cut it. That will prevent it from fraying or coming apart.

The line comes in either ¼ inch or ⅜ inch diameters. You can also get it at several lengths. The break strength is around 850 lbs depending on the size you buy, and that gives you a safe working load of 90 lbs. That doesn’t seem like a lot and it isn’t. That’s one thing you need to remember about this line. It’s not designed for bigger boats.

We recommend this line for a small aluminum fishing boat or pontoon boats . Put a 5 lb anchor on it and you should be fine.

One thing to keep in mind about this line is that it’s not good at coiling. In fact, if you try to roll this line up, it will almost definitely fall apart into a mess right away. That can make storing it difficult. But for the price and convenience, it’s still a solid choice. You don’t need a big, expensive line on a small fishing boat, right?

Just remember, this line will degrade in direct sunlight. Keep it stored away when not in use. Also, be aware that it will discolor pretty quickly, but that won’t affect how it works.

• $21.16 Walmart   →

The word “extreme” gets tossed around a lot in advertising. It doesn’t always mean much, but in this case it does. Extreme Max has made a seriously powerful line here. If your boat and anchor are not suited to these smaller lines, look here. If you are fearful of your anchor line breaking, Extreme Max BoatTector can handle almost any job.

Most lines are coming in at ⅜ inches in diameter. Larger offerings include ½ inch for some brands. Extreme Max can do those, plus they offer a 200 foot long ⅝ inch line. That has a working load limit of 1600 lbs. That’s not the breaking strength, just the safe load limit. The breaking strength is 8430 lbs. That’s over 4 tons. This is one serious anchor line.

The line itself is double braided nylon. That means whatever you throw at it, it can probably handle. It’s abrasion resistant and can stand up to UV radiation and chemicals. The stainless steel thimble will resist corrosion and makes hooking up to an anchor a breeze.

Durability and resilience are unmatched here. The line is easy to handle and doesn’t tangle very easily, either. Elasticity and its ability to absorb shocks are top-notch. If you want the best of the best, this line may be it.

If you don’t need a monster like the ⅝ inch line, Extreme Max also offers ½ inch and ⅜ inch as well. You can get the line in either white and gold or white and blue. There are also other colors produced, but they’re not always available. They also have a ¾ inch size available sometimes as well, with a working limit of 2100 lbs. That’s tough enough for some commercial applications.

• Buy on Walmart   →

Young Marine Premium Solid Braid Anchor Line

Young Marine’s Multifilament Polypropylene line comes in 100 feet or 150 feet sizes. It’s ⅜ inches in diameter and is a solid braid. The break strength on this is 1565 pounds. That means this is best suited for smaller boats. Young Marine recommends about 16 feet.

The stainless steel thimble can stand up to saltwater well. That’s because it is corrosion resistant. The line is also able to resist UV rays and chemicals. Remember, something that is resistant isn’t “proof.” It can still degrade over time. Store this line out of direct sunlight. And if it does get coated in oil or fuel, make sure you clean it off with fresh water.

We found this line pretty flexible. It doesn’t have much stiffness to it and it rolls and pulls easily. It’s also pretty easy on your hands. Because it’s polypropylene, it’s going to float in the water. The elasticity is good as well.

$35.99 Amazon  →

Bang4Buck Braided Line

Bang4Buck tries to live up to their name with variety. You can get lengths of this rope ranging from 50 feet up to 200 feet. It also comes in ½ inch and ⅜ inch sizes. That versatility allows you to make the most out of this rope. The 200 feet is probably overkill, to be honest, though. If you’re that deep, you may want something with the strength of nylon. This seems to be better suited to smaller boats.

Though it’s not anchor specific, it should be more than up to the task for most boaters. The half inch size offers a 5850 lb breaking strength. That should definitely be enough for small to medium vessels. That works out to a working strength of 1170 lbs. Remember, that’s at ½ inch. They also sell ⅜ inch which will not be as tough.

The rope is made from triple braided polypropylene line. That means it’s going to be very smooth and a little slippery. Watch your knots if you tie any and double check they’re secure. Also, make sure you keep this stowed out of the sun when not in use. UV rays will break down polypropylene. If this lays out all the time, after a couple of seasons, it may break down significantly.

The line floats, so it’s also good for other purposes like water skiing. Because it’s polypropylene, you’ll find it resists tangles easily as well.

Sgt Knots Anchor Rope

Sgt Knots is a good company with a quality product. They’re also one of the few that give you multiple options when buying. You can get this rope in several sizes, which makes it a little more versatile than many others. For instance, most ropes are sold in 100 foot spools. Sgt Knots offers you the option of 100 feet, 150 feet and even 200 feet. Plus, you can try out ⅜ inch or, at the 100 foot length, up to ½ inch for extra strength. It all depends on your anchoring depth and what you need.

The line itself is made from nylon, which is top quality. Nylon rope is powerful and can stand up to the elements better than other synthetics. The rope is actually three strands of nylon twisted together. That means it’s some of the strongest rope on the market. At the same time, it’s flexible and stretchy when you need it to be.

The nylon is resistant to abrasion as well as the elements. It features a stainless steel thimble on the end as well. You should be able to adapt this to just about any anchor setup that you have. Some ropes are good for several uses, including anchors. But this was designed specifically for this task. It’s some of the best anchor rope on the market.

The founder of the company is ex-military and they are US based. Sgt Knots is known to have some of the best customer service in the business. If you have a problem they should be able to help you with it to your satisfaction

 Amazon  →

Maple Leaf Anchor Rope

This is another super tough nylon rope. This is ideal for medium to larger sized boats. But a small boat would certainly benefit from this tough line as well. It’s made from triple strand nylon. So that’s essentially like having three nylon ropes together. If you’re curious how that affects the strength, check out these numbers. It’s a ½ inch line at 100 feet with an incredible breaking strength of 6237 lbs. That means the working strength is 1247 lbs. As you can see, there are some ropes that are similar in size but have only a fraction of that strength. So this is one of the big guns for when you need reliability.

Because it’s nylon, this rope doesn’t float. That means it’s going to go straight down with your anchor. It’s unlikely to get stuck in your prop. It’s also resistant to things like mold and UV rays. There’s a reason nylon gets recommended so highly for these anchor ropes.

It comes with a stainless steel thimble attached. It’s easy to get attached to your anchor, and it’s smooth and easy on the hands to pull in and out of the water. This rope is good in some chop as well, because it has a great elasticity to it. Nylon offers good give without breaking. That makes it ideal for a number of tasks, but we definitely think it’s great for anchors.

$39.95 Amazon  →

Better Boat Anchor Rope

If you want a tough braided nylon anchor line, Better Boat has a solid option. At 100 feet in length and ⅜ inches in diameter, this is a standard size line for most boats. The double braided nylon construction is abrasion resistant and tough as anything. The stainless steel thimble included is corrosion resistant. It’s also very well secured, so you shouldn’t have to worry about it being a weak spot in the line.

By the numbers, just look at what this line boasts. You have an 820lb working load and 4035lb breaking load. That’s why double braid nylon rope is such a standout for marine uses. This is great on a small boat, but it can clearly handle larger jobs as well. This line can adapt easily from an anchor line to a docking line as well.

The line itself is black, which is aesthetically cool. But don’t worry about losing track of it. They’ve also woven in reflective threads so you can see it even in poor light. It’s designed for use with any kind of anchor, from a kayak anchor to a fluke or box anchor. The versatility and strength make this ideal.

Because it’s nylon, it’s tough against whatever you throw at it. Not only is it physically strong, but it can handle UV rays. It’s able to withstand freshwater and saltwater easily. And, even better, it’s chemical resistant. If this gets exposed to gasoline or oil, it can be cleaned off and saved. Just remember to get it out and cleaned asap.

Better Boat is a family owned, American company. If you have a problem with their products, they’re very easy to get a hold of. They also respond in a timely manner. So if customer service is as important to you as the product itself, give this one a try.

$39.99 Amazon  →

Airhead Anchor Bungee

Give Airhead credit, they found a way to make rope fun. Once upon a time all anchoring rope was boring, white line. And sure, it’s not a toy, but this anchor bungee is still pretty cool. It’s also bright enough that you’re not likely to lose track of it too easily.

One of the coolest features of the anchor bungee is that it allows you to tether your boat. Toss the bungee and anchor overboard as you come into shore. Then, when you reach the shallow water, you hop out. Attach a line to a beach spike on shore. That keeps your boat safely away from a rocky shoreline. It allows the line to stretch out so your boat is floating safely in waters where it won’t get damaged. But it’s not getting away from you, either. The bungee absorbs the shocks that would unmoor an anchor with a normal line.

As a regular anchor rope, this is great for shallower waters. It stretches from 14 feet all the way to 50 feet. So you’re not taking this into the deep sea by any means. Still, if you want to stop somewhere closer to shore, it’s a good choice.

The zinc-plated shackle and snap hook are tough and easy to use. The bungee rope is polypropylene with a 2500 lb tensile strength. So it can stand up to some weight with no worries .

Attwood Solid Braid Anchor Line

Attwood has made a strong and durable MFP anchor rope here. MFP stands for Multifilament Polypropylene. That means it’s made from a large number of very thin fibers woven together. This is what makes it stranger and more durable than similar ropes.

The rope comes in a 100 foot long spool. It’s a ⅜ inch diameter as well. The line is very flexible, but it does float. Some people prefer a line that floats, others don’t, so keep that in mind. It’s also labelled as UV resistant. Keep in mind that polypropylene is less UV resistant than other synthetic lines. There have been some complaints from previous owners that the line fell apart. Some said they “turned to dust” after a season or two. That’s UV exposure. Keep the line stored safely out of the sun when not in use and it will last a lot longer. For the price, you should still get some good value out of the rope.

Based on calculations, the safe strength of this rope should be around 189 lbs. That means you don’t want to use it on a larger boat. However, for a small boat, this is ideal. It’s light and easy to store. It’s also easy on your hands if you have to pull it in. Plus, since it floats, it’s good to use as an emergency line if need be.

• $34.99 Walmart   →

TRAC Outdoor Anchor Line

TRAC Outdoor is known for making quality, reliable products. Their anchor rope is no exception. This rope is made from braided polypropylene. It comes in a 100 foot long spool. The rope diameter is .2 inches.

The bright blue color makes it easy to see in murky water and low light conditions. That’s also thanks to the reflective tracer patches woven into it. The ends also feature what they call a “rock guard’ sleeve. This helps protect against serious abrasion and wear. That will extend the lifespan of your rope considerably. Paired with a chain, you could expect this rope to last a good deal of time.

It’s polypropylene so it can easily handle saltwater and freshwater. They’ve included a loop and a shackle as well. The break strength is listed at 700 lbs. That means your safe working strength is about 140 lbs. That should make this more than strong enough for the average fishing boat .

The company that makes TRAC is located in North Carolina. They offer good customer service. If you have an issue, they are usually quick to respond. That said, you may want to inspect the shackle and splice on your line closely. Some past buyers have had issues with the line separating and losing their anchor. It’s not common, but more than one person complained about it. For that reason, you may want to tweak things if they don’t look solid to you.

• Buy on Bass Pro   →

Choosing the Best Boat Anchor Rope

More goes into picking the best anchor rope than you might think. You need to be aware of not just length and width, but a number of other factors for the right anchor line. Can you rope hold up in saltwater? What if it gets exposed to chemicals? Is it OK to be exposed to UV rays for a long time? How can it handle rough seas? There is a lot more to consider than newcomers might suspect. Let’s look at the type of anchor rope that you need.

Types of Anchor Line Material

There are actually several kinds of materials used to make boat anchor ropes. Which you choose depends on a few factors.

Nylon Anchor Rope

The most common kinds of ropes are made from nylon. Nylon rope has a lot going for it, which is why it’s so common. For instance, for its size, nylon is very strong. It doesn’t have a lot of buoyancy, which is obviously important. The level of elasticity is ideal for anchor rope as well. Nylon rope can stretch up to 40%. Overall, it’s fairly light as well. It can stand up to salt water without problems, not to mention chemicals.

We think nylon makes for the best anchor ropes for of all of these reasons. And, the fact is, it’s everywhere. It’s the easiest to find. That makes it a smart choice as well. Every marine supply store will have nylon rope in stock.

Remember that nylon rope loses strength when it’s wet. It will reduce the strength up to 25%, in fact. Pay attention to the words “up to” here, however. Not every nylon rope is made to the same quality, and some will be stronger than others.

Polyester Anchor Rope

Polyester rope is not too different from nylon. The big differences here are strength and stretch. Nylon is superior when it comes to each. That doesn’t mean polyester is not strong, but for the same size, it’s not quite as strong. However, when wet, polyester does not lose strength like nylon does.

The stretch factor is more of an issue. Again, it’s not drastically different. But stretchiness in marine rope helps absorb shock. If you choose polyester over nylon, you may feel jolts harder. It’s also more prone to chafing than nylon rope is.

Polyester can handle the sunlight better than nylon. Nylon is OK, and as long as you care for it properly, it should be fine. But polyester is less affected.

Polypropylene Anchor Rope

This is the cheapest kind of rope in most cases. It can offer reasonable strength and elasticity. However, polypropylene is not good with sunlight. UV radiation really causes damage to this kind of rope. As a result, if this sits out in the sun too much, it will degrade. That can pose a real problem after a while.

Polypropylene line tends to be slippery. It’s not good for tying things off very well and it can cut. If you’re trying to pull this line in an emergency, you may slice your hands up. There’s a reason why nylon is a lot more popular.

We recommend not using polypropylene rope for an anchor line on larger boats. There are just too many drawbacks to it. That said, because it’s cheap and it floats, keep it around for a rescue line instead if you already have some.

For smaller boats, this can be a good choice. The strain of your anchor is not likely to cause too much trouble overall. Just remember to stow it properly out of the sun!

Manila Anchor Lines

Manila is a natural fiber robe. Unlike synthetic lines, this will shrink some when it gets wet. You’ll still see large ships using manila rope to this day. That’s because it’s remarkably strong. But compared to synthetic lines, you’re better off with nylon. Nylon can do the job better with a smaller rope overall. But if you want a natural line, then this is what you would use. It’s the best overall, and it does have that authentic, old-timey sailor appeal. Just remember, you’ll need larger manila rope to match the strength of nylon. And manila can go bad if not stored correctly.

Cutting Anchor Lines

Synthetic lines have a tendency to fray when cut. They will unspool into hundreds of tiny, hair-like fibers. Over time, these can unwind and fray the rope to pieces. Also, it’s going to cause a significant loss of strength when this happens. That’s why you need to address it as soon as you cut the line.

Because these ropes are synthetic, they melt when you heat them. This is ideal for fixing those frays. Once you cut a line, you can use a special tool to essentially cauterize the end and prevent the stray, frayed bits. It’s just as easy to use an open flame. You can even carefully use a lighter to melt just the very end of the line. That will melt the frayed bits into a solid end that’s easy to work with.

Anchor Rope Construction

When you’re picking a suitable anchor line, you’re going to have two main choices. These are braided anchor ropes and twisted or laid anchor ropes. Both of these have pros and cons that are worth considering. There isn’t really a right choice and a wrong choice. It’s a lot like comparing anchors or props . You have many options and they all can get the job done.

Twisted Rope: You’ll find twisted rope at fairly reasonable prices. This is usually cheaper than braided ropes. The trade off is that it does tend to kink a bit. It offers a good amount of stretch, though. Splicing this rope is also pretty easy. A twisted nylon anchor rope would be still be a good choice.

Braided Rope: Pound for pound, this rope is usually stronger than twisted. Same length and same anchor line diameter, braided is tougher. It’s also less harsh if you pull it in by hand. It’s flexible but not necessarily as stretchy as twisted rope. You might also have a difficult time splicing this kind of rope.

Anchor Rope Length

Having the right length of rope is essential to ensuring your anchor works properly. Too little and your anchor won’t even hit bottom. Too much and you’ll be drifting all over the place. You can get snags and tangles and cause a ton of problems. But you’re going to hear a lot of different ideas about how much rope is the right amount.

If you Google it right now, you could find 3 different sites with 3 different opinions. In fact, we did just that. One site said 7 feet for every one foot of depth. Another said 8 feet. One said 10 feet.

There are a lot of variables. If you’re in very choppy waters, you may want to have more rope. Likewise, if you’re not sure about bottom conditions. We think that 8 feet of rope per one foot in the water is the best ratio. But, again, that can change based on conditions.

Anchor Rope Width

It’s easy for a newcomer to overlook this part. Length is something you obviously want to worry about. But the rope thickness is extremely important as well. Too thin and your rope will snap like a twig. You definitely don’t want that. But how do you know if it’s thick enough?

A good rule of thumb is to add ⅛ of an inch for every 9 feet of boat.

Up to 9 feet = ⅛ inch

Up to 18 feet = ¼ inch

Up to 27 feet = ⅜ inch

Up to 36 feet = ½ inch

In general, bigger is always better. If you have a 16 foot boat, ⅜ inch is a fine idea. Even though technically it could get away with ¼ inch.

Boat Anchor Rope Strength

So you don’t want a rope that’s going to break. Just like fishing line, if it snaps it’s useless to you. But how do you determine boat anchor rope strength?

Rope strength is all based on a standard. That standard is natural manila rope. We compare other kinds of rope to manila to determine how tough it is. This will let you know the safe working load of a rope. So you’ll need to know the anchor rope size to figure this out.

You can calculate the strength factor of synthetic lines with a simple formula. The square of the circumference of the line multiplied by 900 lbs times that rope’s comparison factor.

(Circumference X 2) x 900 lbs.

Now things get a tiny bit complicated here in determining circumference. All the rope sizes we listed are diameter. Diameter is the distance across a circle if you cut it clean in half. But the circumference is the distance around the circle. That said, we can use diameter to calculate circumference.

Circumference = the diameter X pi (3.14)

Let’s do a practical example. You have a ¼ rope. So to calculate circumference, we multiply that by pi (3.14) and get 0.25 x 3.14 = 0.785. Then we multiply that by 900 lbs and get 706.5 lbs. That’s the rope’s breaking strength of a manila rope at this size.

If you have a synthetic line you need to include the comparison factor. Let’s look at those.

Nylon = 2.5

Polyester = 2

Polypropylene = 1.4

So if you had a ¼ inch nylon anchor rope you’d multiple your number by 2.5.

Your new formula would be 0.785 x 900 x 2.5 = 1766.25 lbs. That’s the breaking strength of a ¼ nylon anchor rope.

Breaking strength of a rope is a rule of thumb more than a set in stone guide. Remember, someone tested this in a lab. In the real world, things can go wonky. Maybe your rope is older or frayed. Maybe something will damage it. It’s hard to say.

Another thing to remember is that this number is for one solid piece of rope. If you have a knot or splice, it will decrease. Those weak spots are unpredictable. Just in terms of how they are going to affect the breaking strength.

Safe Working Load

This number is often given alongside break strength. Safe working load is how much weight your rope anchor can safely manage. It will be significantly less than the breaking strength. If you push your anchor rope to the breaking strength point, one thing is going to happen. The rope will break. Probably a lot sooner than you think, too. That’s because, as we mentioned, there may be mitigating factors.

Knots and splices significantly lower breaking strength. UV rays will weaken the rope. If it has endured a history of temperature changes or abrasion, that reduces strength as well. So a rope with a breaking strength of 1766 lbs on paper may actually break at 1200 lbs. Or even less.

To be safe, the rule of thumb for safe working load is ⅕ or 20%. That means if your line has a breaking strength of 1766.25 lbs then your safe working load is 353.25 lbs.

What About Anchor Chain?

You’ll often see chains and ropes being sold or even used together. Some people think chain is the better option, some think worse. But what about both? This is not uncommon at all and actually serves a good purpose.

Many anchors are attached to chains at the anchor itself. The chain extends for a short length and then the nylon rope is attached to it. So why would you choose a section of chain and then use rope? It’s all for a very practical reason.

The ocean floor is an unpredictable place. You don’t know what’s under you when you lower the anchor. There could be plain mud, sure. But there could be old trees, rocks, or trash. If your anchor hits something solid and rough, it’s no big deal. But if you have a length of rope resting on it, that could be a problem. Over time, even the toughest rope can wear down. If it keeps grating or rocks or other junk, it will start to fray.

We recommend a length of chain that is half the size of the rope you’ve chosen. That’s in terms of diameter. For the length of the chain, check your boat length. You want it to be about as long as your boat. Then you can connect the rope to the chain with a shackle unless you have a windlass.

One foot of chain for one foot of boat is ideal in most conditions. However, this can be tweaked. In rough water, you may one one foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope. This helps maintain a good angle. But it can be hard to predict if and when you’ll need this. And not every boat has the capacity to store a lot of chain.

Make sure you pick a chain that’s meant for this job. A bike chain from Home Depot is not going to work. You need a marine grade chain that’s galvanized. Not only will it preserve your rope, it will also make anchoring more efficient. Chain is a lot heavier than rope, so your anchor is going to drop straight down. That makes it less likely to suffer any kind of drift as well.

If you have a larger boat, more chain is typically a good idea. Chain will do a better job of keeping that anchor set.

Line Safety

One thing you always need to remember is to be safe around the boat anchor line. Newcomers to boating often aren’t aware of how dangerous lines can be. If you have guests on your boat, make sure they are aware of what is safe and what is not.

If you have a line under tension, no one should be within 45 degrees of that line on either side of it. Always make sure everyone on the boat knows this.

Always double check your knots. This is especially true when you use synthetic lines. All synthetic materials are slippery to one degree or another. They can easily slide out of knots if they are not done securely. So once you have a knot in place, check it again to make sure.

The Bottom Line

Safety is always your number one priority, Make sure you’re choosing adequate line for your boat. It needs to be strong enough and long enough to get the job done. Always store it safely out of the way to reduce tripping hazards. This will also go a long way to making sure it lasts for several seasons.

As always, stay safe and have fun

My grandfather first took me fishing when I was too young to actually hold up a rod on my own. As an avid camper, hiker, and nature enthusiast I'm always looking for a new adventure.

Categories : Boats

Kane Holland on March 26, 2022

I used a Rainier Supply Double Braided Nylon Anchor Rope 50 ft x 3/8 inch. The length and color I’m very satisfied with. Not easy to get dirty, the material is not to rust. I find it very light and comfortable to hold. Such a reasonable price.

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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• Anchors Away: Choosing the Right Anchor and Rope for Your Boating Adventure

When it comes to boating, one essential item you should never overlook is the anchor and rope. These seemingly simple tools play a crucial role in ensuring your safety and the stability of your boat while you're out on the water. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice boater, understanding the types of anchor lines, boat anchors, and ropes available is vital for a smooth and secure boating experience. In this comprehensive guide, we'll dive deep into the world of anchors and ropes, exploring various options, their uses, and how to make the best choice for your boating needs.

Types of Anchors

1. boat anchor.

A boat anchor is a must-have for any boater. It's the primary tool used to secure your boat in place when you want to stop and enjoy the water or fish. Boat anchors come in various types, including:

Danforth Anchor

The Danforth anchor, also known as the fluke anchor, is a popular choice for its excellent holding power in sandy or muddy bottoms. It consists of a shank with two long, sharp triangular flukes that dig into the seabed when pressure is applied. This design makes it particularly effective in soft, loose bottoms.

Plow Anchor

Plow anchors, also called plough anchors, are known for their versatility and ability to grip a variety of seabed types. They have a single, curved fluke that resembles a plow's shape, which allows them to penetrate the seabed effectively. Plow anchors are suitable for various boating environments, including sand, mud, and gravel.

Claw Anchor

Claw anchors, with their unique claw-shaped design, are known for their ability to set quickly and hold well in rocky or weedy bottoms. They are highly efficient at digging into the seabed and offer excellent stability. The claw anchor is an excellent choice when you need a reliable hold in challenging conditions.

Mushroom Anchor

Mushroom anchors are characterized by their mushroom-like shape, with a heavy round head and a slender stem. They are commonly used for smaller boats and are effective in softer seabeds like mud or silt. While they may not offer the same holding power as some other anchors, they are easy to handle and suitable for lightweight boats.

2. Ship Anchors for Sale

If you're the proud owner of a larger vessel, you'll need a ship anchor. Ship anchors come in several types, each designed for specific purposes:

Stockless Anchor

Stockless anchors are commonly used on commercial vessels, including cargo ships and tankers. They are known for their exceptional holding power, making them suitable for larger ships that need to stay firmly anchored, even in adverse weather conditions. The stockless design allows for efficient stowage on the ship's deck.

Admiralty Anchor

Admiralty anchors are known for their reliability and are often used on military ships and larger vessels. They have a traditional design characterized by a long shank, a stock (crossbar), and two flukes. Admiralty anchors are highly effective in providing a secure hold for heavy ships, making them a preferred choice for naval applications.

Navy Anchor

Navy anchors, also known as the "Navy Stockless Anchor," are designed to provide strong and dependable holding power for naval vessels. They are similar in design to stockless anchors but have specific dimensions and characteristics tailored to the needs of the navy. These anchors are built for stability and security during naval operations.

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Types of Ropes

3. anchor ropes.

Choosing the right anchor rope is just as important as selecting the right anchor. Anchor ropes are available in different materials and designs, each offering unique advantages:

Nylon Anchor Rope

Nylon anchor ropes are popular among boaters due to their strength, elasticity, and resistance to abrasion. These ropes can stretch and absorb shock loads, reducing the strain on both the anchor and the boat. Nylon anchor ropes are an excellent choice for most boaters, as they perform well in a variety of conditions and are resistant to saltwater corrosion.

Polypropylene Anchor Rope

Polypropylene anchor ropes are lightweight and float on water, making them easy to handle and ideal for small boats. While they are less elastic than nylon ropes, they are still suitable for various boating applications. Polypropylene ropes are resistant to rot and mildew, which is essential for maintaining their integrity in a marine environment.

Braided Anchor Rope

Braided anchor ropes offer exceptional strength and durability, making them suitable for heavy-duty applications. These ropes consist of multiple strands woven together, creating a strong and flexible rope that can withstand significant loads. Boaters with larger vessels or those who frequently anchor in challenging conditions often opt for braided anchor ropes.

Chain and Rope Combination

In some cases, boaters use a combination of anchor chain and rope. This setup involves attaching a length of anchor chain to the anchor and connecting it to the rope. The chain adds weight to the anchor, helping it set more effectively, especially in strong currents or windy conditions. The chain also provides added chafe resistance, protecting the rope from wear.

Leaded Rope

Leaded ropes are designed to sink and provide additional weight for increased anchor stability. When you're dealing with strong currents or turbulent waters, a leaded rope can help your anchor maintain a secure hold. These ropes have lead weights interspersed along their length, ensuring they stay submerged and maintain tension on the anchor.

Selecting the Best Anchor and Rope

Selecting the best anchor and rope combination depends on several factors:

The size of your boat is a crucial factor in determining the type and size of anchor and rope you need. Smaller boats may require lightweight anchors and ropes, while larger vessels need heavier-duty options.

Boating Location

The type of seabed and water conditions in your preferred boating locations play a significant role in anchor and rope selection. Understanding the bottom composition and water currents is essential for choosing the right gear.

Anchor Weight

The weight of your anchor is vital for proper anchoring. An anchor that is too light may not provide enough holding power, while an anchor that is too heavy can be difficult to manage and may damage your boat's deck. Consult manufacturer recommendations and experts to find the right weight for your boat.

Rope Length

Ensure your anchor rope is long enough to reach the seabed comfortably. A general rule of thumb is to have at least seven times the depth of the water in anchor rope length. This allows the anchor to set properly and provides sufficient scope for a secure hold.

Anchor Handling

Consider how easy it is to handle your chosen anchor. For smaller boats and personal watercraft, lightweight and manageable anchors are preferable. Larger vessels may require powered anchor windlasses to handle heavy anchors effectively.

Environmental Considerations

Be mindful of environmental regulations and practices when anchoring. In sensitive areas, such as coral reefs or protected ecosystems, use designated mooring buoys or anchor in designated zones to minimize damage to the environment.

Maintaining Your Anchor and Rope

Proper maintenance of your anchor and rope is crucial to ensure their longevity and effectiveness. Here are some maintenance tips:

Anchor Inspection

Regularly inspect your anchor for damage and signs of wear. Look for bent flukes, corrosion, or any loose parts. Clean your anchor after each use, removing any mud or debris that can accelerate wear.

Clean and store your anchor rope properly to extend its lifespan. Rinse the rope with fresh water to remove salt and debris, and allow it to dry thoroughly before coiling it for storage. Avoid storing wet ropes in a confined space, as this can promote mold and mildew growth.

Chain Maintenance

If you use an anchor chain, regularly inspect it for signs of rust or wear. Remove any rust with a wire brush and keep the chain well-lubricated to prevent corrosion.

Proper Stowage

Ensure your anchor and rope are stowed securely when not in use. Loose gear on deck can pose safety hazards and may cause damage to your boat.

Safety First

Always prioritize safety when handling anchors and ropes. Use appropriate gloves and safety gear to prevent injuries, and be cautious of your surroundings and other boaters when anchoring in crowded areas.

In the world of boating, the right anchor and rope can make all the difference in your safety and enjoyment. Whether you're cruising along the coast, dropping anchor for a relaxing day on the water, or embarking on a long offshore voyage, understanding the various options available and selecting the best anchor and rope for your specific needs is essential. Invest in quality equipment, keep it well-maintained, and you'll be prepared for countless adventures on the open sea.

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The Ultimate Boat Rope Anchor Guides

When was the last time you stopped to think about how much you use marine rope for boating life?

When you add up all of the docking, anchoring, sailing, and towing, a strong and reliable marine rope is crucial to your water adventures.  Without one, you may find yourself in an uncomfortable situation, which is why SGT KNOTS is here with the boat anchor rope guides you’ve been looking for to help you determine not only the best rope for anchoring a boat, but also the many different rope knots you’ll need to learn in order to get the job done right in any given situation. Throughout this article, you will learn:

• What Makes The Best Rope for Anchoring a Boat
• The Different Types of Marine Rope

Marine Rope Materials and Fibers

Marine rope construction.

• How to Take Care of Marine Rope
• BONUS: Nautical Rope How-To’s

SGT KNOTS QUICK PICK: Looking for a quick recommendation on our favorite and best rope for boat anchoring? Look no further than the Double Braid Anchor Line , a well-rounded, professional-grade anchoring line designed to not only be UV, moisture, and abrasion-resistant but strong enough to handle everything from fishing and speed boats to large yachts and large vessels.

So let’s dive in!

Characteristics of Marine Rope

When it comes to the best marine rope for anchoring a boat, you can’t just assume any old rope will work, especially around water, salt, and other rope-degrading elements. 

Whether you have a sailboat, trawler, or canal boat, choosing the best rope for harsh outdoor conditions is vital to the rope’s longevity and your boat’s safety and security.  For this reason, you’ll want to take a few minutes to learn these important characteristics to look for when choosing marine rope:

Is it Water Resistant?

  One of the most important factors to consider when choosing marine rope is that it’s hydrophobic, or water-resistant. Although each boat rope may not come in direct contact with water, the fact that it’s being used on a boat (in possible rainy conditions) makes water resistance a necessary factor to consider.

Is it Strong and Durable?

Strength and durability are important when seeking the best rope for boat anchors, but knowing how salt and water can wear down even the toughest fibers is very important.  As a boater, you need to have full confidence that your rope is the best rope for anchoring a boat, towing your kids, and keeping your sailboat sailing.

Does it Float?

For towing ( waterskiing, wakeboarding, and surfing , or tubing), you’ll want a marine rope that floats as this makes it easy for the rider to find and grab if they fall off. For a great floating rope for these applications, consider a Polypropylene Rope or a water and abrasion-resistant Polyester Rope like a Spectra Accessory Cord , which features a polyester sheathing.

Does it Sink?

While seemingly counteractive to the last characteristic, there are some boating tasks where you need the rope to sink, which makes a boating Nylon Rope a useful rope to keep handy, mostly used for anchor lines.

Does it Stretch?

Most dock lines require a stretchable rope as it allows them to sway with the boat as the water moves. If your rope is too tight, it can rip or cause your boat to slam into the side of the dock during high wind and inclement weather. We again recommend a Polypropylene Rope .

Here’s how to tie the Midshipman’s Hitch :

Understanding the Many Types of Marine Rope

Sailboats definitely use a lot of rigging and rope that’s not needed in powerboating, but having the right rope from SGT KNOTS provides both the durability and safety you’d expect from a high-quality marine rope. Here are just a few types of marine rope that sailors know well:

• Docking Rope
• Anchor Rope
• Sailing Rope

Color-Coded Marine Rope

One cool and useful feature about sailing rope is that it’s often color-coded. In the sailing world, there are standard color codes used to distinguish the use and length of rope. Although you can really apply any color to any line of your personal vessel (as long as you member what the codes stand for), there are standard color-coded lines such as the following:

• White: Mainsail sheet and halyard lines
• Blue: Jib/genoa line
• Red: Spinnaker
• Green: Guys
• Black: Vangs and travelers

Here’s how to tie a Figure 8 Stopper :

  Marine Rope Flecks and Tracers

Ever notice how some marine rope has specks of different colors? It’s called a "fleck.”  There’s an extra bit of color in the rope, like a white rope with flecks of blue.

When there’s more than one color, like a white rope with red and blue, the term “tracers” is used. The flecks are used to indicate length or depth.

Here’s how to tie a Double Dragon Loop :

You’ll find that several synthetic and natural fibers go into the construction of marine rope.  Consider your budget and what you’ll use the rope or lines for when making a decision.

• Nylon Rope , which is moderately priced, offers shock absorption, UV, and wear resistance. It’s very strong, often used for dock and anchor rope. However, it does shrink a bit when wet.
• Polyester Rope is strong, has low stretch, and is quite durable. It’s also moderate in price. It can also be used as an anchor rope.
• Polypropylene Rope is lightweight, very stretchy, and almost as strong as nylon. Since it floats, it’s a good choice for tow ropes. On the negative side, it’s not UV resistant and melts at low temperatures. However it’s quite affordable, so buying a new tow rope every season isn’t too bad of a deal.
• Kevlar Rope , also known as Technora, is incredibly strong, has low stretch and doesn’t rust. It’s used for mooring lines on ships and oil rigs, as well as in sailing rigging.  Marine rope made with Kevlar often has a polyester cover over the Kevlar/Technora core

Here’s how to tie a Cleat Hitch Dock Line :

In addition to the various types of marine rope fibers, there are a couple of ways marine rope is constructed, including braided, twisted, and with a parallel core.

Braided Marine Rope

You’ll find two types of braided marine rope: single and double-braided.

Single-braided marine rope has a flexible construction that doesn’t kink or twist. It’s used on sailboat mainsheets and large dock lines.

Double-braided rope has a braided core and a braided cover. It’s easy to handle, strong, and durable. It’s used in running rigging and dock lines.

3-Strand Twist Marine Rope

3-strand twist rope is exactly what it sounds like—a twist of three strands.  It’s flexible, durable, and long-lasting. It doesn’t harden with age, is used for anchors, running rigging, and dock, mooring, and tow lines.

Parallel Core Marine Rope

Marine rope with a parallel core means it has a unidirectional fiber core with a braided cover. It has less stretch but lots of strength. You can use it for halyards, sheets, and anywhere you need a low-stretch marine rope.

Here’s how to tie a Cleat Hitch Halyard :

How to Properly Take Care of Marine Rope

Along with using the correct rope for boating and tying the proper knots, you can keep your marine rope maintained and in top shape with help from these five expert-recommend tips: 

Marine rope is exposed to chafing all the time—anchor lines over the side of the boat, tied up at the dock, hoisting sailing lines, the list goes on. Chafing is just a fact of life when it comes to boating ropes, but there are ways to prevent it. For the best defense against chafing, we recommend using Rope Chafe Guards to defend your ropes against chafing. 

2. Fraying and Rope Ends

To prevent fraying of the rope ends, you’ll need to secure the strands before cutting and treating the ends. Here are a few tricks to try:

• The first method is called “ Sailmaker’s Whipping .”  You secure the strands using a needle and thread. It’s the most traditional and very effective method, but it does require sewing skills.
• The other quick and easy method is to use tape.

Once the end strands are secure (for synthetic rope), you’ll use heat to “melt” the ends into a protective end. If there are non-synthetic fibers in the rope, cut around the core to expose just the outer pieces. This way, the outer edges will form a protective cap over the core. After the end has melted, pound it down and flatten it.

If you’ve ever walked around a marina, you’ve probably noticed swirls of perfectly coiled rope alongside the cleats of docked boats.  This isn’t just an example of marine OCD—it’s a way to prevent fraying, tangling, and chafing of the rope.

It also keeps the rope within easy reach when you need it (free from dangling into the water).  Some boaters prefer to use a figure-eight shape, but it’s all up to you!

Here’s your guide to Coiling Unattached Rope :

4. Cleaning

Saltwater, dirt, and other debris (including fish gills, bird droppings, etc.) will rinse off with fresh water at least once a season. If you choose to clean your ropes for boating, avoid using soapy detergents, as they can wash away protective finishes on marine rope.

5. Inspection

Along with cleaning, marine rope should be inspected at least once a season (usually at the end of the season). You’ll want to look for chafing, frayed ends, dry rot, tears and worn spots. An important spot to check is the areas on your boat where rope touches. There could be sharp edges on cleats, winches, or areas that snag the rope.

Take Your Boat Rope Knowledge To The Next Level 

Now that you know the basics behind marine rope, use it to your advantage to choose the best type for your boating needs. Next on the list?  Mastering those fancy nautical knots like the Stevedore Stopper Knot , How to Make a Slipknot and learn even more about Anchor Lead Chains ! Here are a few knot tying videos to get you started:

  BUNGEE DOCK LINE

Slip Knot Tutorial

 Anchor Lead Chain

Stay in the Loop with SGT KNOTS

From boat rope anchor guides to teaching you about the different nautical rope knots every sailor should know, SGT KNOTS of Lake Norman, North Carolina makes it easy to find the best marine ropes and information for anchoring, docking, and towing your boat! 

With SGT KNOTS, you can enjoy your adventures on the lake, pond, or open sea with confidence, knowing you have the very best boat rope at the best possible price! Be sure to follow SGT KNOTS on Facebook , Instagram , and Pinterest to stay in the loop with our newest products . Also, don’t forget to check out the SGT KNOTS Blog for DIY inspiration.

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Choosing The Right Rope

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Like many other boating products, rope is not a static commodity, but is still evolving and improving.

When you buy, read the latest product information. Most boaters will use either one form or another of nylon and perhaps also polypropylene.

For most docking and anchor lines, standard nylon is a good choice. It has great strength, "gives" under load to absorb energy, and is relatively inexpensive. It's also easy to handle and resists the harmful effects of sunlight better than other synthetics. It's the rope of choice for anchoring rode. Nylon comes in strands and braided. Three strand is usually used on anchor rodes because of its stretch and resistance to abrasion. Braided, more commonly seen on dock lines and in sailing rigging, will snag easier than stranded line, (a serious detriment when scraping across the bottom of the sea) although it's usually easier to handle and has great strength. Some types of stranded lines are softer than regular 3 strand and less desirable for boat use. If you see stranded nylon in a hardware store, for example, that's very inexpensive, beware. Some types of braided lines are stronger and less subject to snagging. Don't just buy rope. Read the various product descriptions each time you buy to help you make the right choice.

Normal loading should be nowhere near a rope’s breaking strength, certainly no more than 25%. This means your lines will stay on duty even when stressed well beyond the service intended, resisting big wakes, strong winds, and other challenges. Remember that breaking strength decreases with age and wear and knots and kinks in the line will weaken it.

Polypropylene

Most people know this as "that yellow rope" that's commonly used to tow skiers, wake boards and dinghies. Because polypropylene rope floats, it's handy to have around for multiple purposes such as these. Made of synthetic fibers, polypropylene is almost as strong as nylon but is considerably less resistant to the sun's UV rays and will normally not last long. You shouldn't use this type of rope for more than a year, two at the most, depending on usage and degree of exposure to UV. This line will actually begin to visibly disintegrate as it ages. But if you replace it regularly it has its uses.

Sailing Lines

Your boat's running rigging is not the place to economize. If you purchase quality rope designed for a specific use, you'll do more than improve your boat's performance: quality rope, properly cared for, can be used repeatedly for progressively less demanding jobs, giving it a long and useful life.

With today's new high-tech synthetic fibers and advanced rope construction, you can buy rope that's 10 times stronger than steel with extremely low stretch. Many racers and cruisers have switched from wire to all-rope halyards; others have also opted for high-strength, low-stretch, lightweight ropes for their running rigging.

All-rope halyards have several advantages over wire. Wire is hard on your hands and gear. Rope is easier to splice, it won't scrape paint or anodizing from your mast, and you don't have to decide whether or not to rely on a worrisome rope-to-wire splice. The primary disadvantages are that rope is thicker, so it has more windage aloft (but around half the weight), and even the ultra-lowstretch fibers elongate more than wire. Quality rope costs more than wire but is easier to install, lasts longer, and can be recycled to a less demanding capacity.

To avoid hassles out on the water, color code your lines so that they are easily identifiable to your crew.

Examples of colors to use are:

• Mainsail sheet and halyard — White
• Jib/genoa — Blue
• Spinnaker — Red and green for guys
• Vangs and travelers — Black

Color coding also helps distinguish the different lengths of dock lines.

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The Best Anchor Ropes – The Complete Guide You’re Looking for

Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers

An anchor will only ever be as good as the rope or line that it’s attached to. That being said, each component of the rope is equally important. The best anchor warrants the best anchor rope, no more, no less.

What’s wonderful about marine rope is there’s variety in it. Almost any kind of material it comes in is reliable, whether it’s nylon, polypropylene, or polyester. It shouldn’t be much of a struggle deciding on what’s best for your purpose, considering the solid brands out there and if you know what to look for.

What are these? Look no further than the three main ones I’ve listed here:

• Strength: Many brands refer to this as tensile strength or breaking strength. This is usually indicated as the maximum amount of pressure that the rope can handle before breaking. It and the total working load are measured in pounds, and manufacturers tend to be transparent with these parameters.
• I like nylon for its natural strength, but it does dip a bit when wet. Polyester and polypropylene work, too, especially if the brand knows the right materials to use. One standout quality of polyester, when compared to nylon, is that it retains most of its strength even when wet.
• Aim for at least 1,000 pounds of total strength and load if you want to be safe, but, in the end, everything should be dictated by your boat’s size requirements.
• Durability: Durability goes well with strength, so it’s just as important. This mostly depends on the material used. Polypropylene has superb rot and mildew resistance, but I can say the same for nylon. Polyester, on the other hand, offers UV resistance, with nylon following at a close second, and it has high abrasion resistance and is generally saltwater-friendly, too.
• Polypropylene often performs less spectacularly in UV resistance, but that’s to be expected since it’s considered the most low-end option of the three. I also like ropes that come with marine-friendly, stainless steel thimbles for obvious reasons.
• Ease of Handling: There are certain types of ropes that fit your purposes perfectly. Aim for the ones that are smooth or easy on your hands as much as possible. They shouldn’t be too hard to tie into a knot if the need arises or too heavy to pull, although, I admit that the latter is not really much of an issue with most anchor ropes and bungees available today.

The ease of stowing and storage falls under this criterion, too. Obviously, you don’t want a rope that gets bunched or tangled up every time you raise the anchor.

• Beginner-friendly
• Designed for anchoring
• Resistant to rot and mildew

• Highly flexible
• Great knot retention
• Relatively lightweight

• Solid strength
• Easy on the hands
• Tough construction

Table of Contents

1. SeaSense Hollow Braid Anchor Line

2. young marine premium anchor line, 3. attwood solid braid mfp anchor line, 4. norestar double braided nylon anchor rope, 5. attwood hollow braided anchor line, 6. maple leaf ropes nylon anchor line, 7. airhead anchor bungee, 8. better boat premium anchor rope, 9. bang4buck twisted dock line, 10. rainier supply co nylon anchor rope, 11. rainier supply co nylon anchor rope, other factors to consider when choosing anchor ropes, how thick should my anchor rope be, how long should a boat anchor rope be, how much anchor line should you use if the water is 20 feet deep, how long does marine rope last, 11 best rope for anchor reviews.

This is a favorite of mine for the sole reason that it’s perfect for average-sized fishing boats. It’s easy to grasp, in more ways than one, has outstanding support and durability.

To get the most out of this line or any boat anchor rope, for that matter, it’s best to stick to anchoring standard guidelines. The 7:1 ratio of rope length for every foot of water ensures you won’t drift with this line holding your vessel in place. Be sure you don’t go over its 90-pound load capacity, too.

I also have this on our family yacht as a substitute line. Of course, we’re using the 100-foot variety. It’s versatile in that regard, and it’s not hard to splice onto any chain you partner it with. With that said, it’s more optimal for smaller vessels, especially a pontoon. The 50-foot option alone is already generous enough to work with for any model of small-boat anchoring and tying off.

As for durability, it’s up there. It may not be UV resistant because of the polypropylene design. But it’s tough overall, and it’s a hollow braid so I’m fairly confident of its resistance to rot and mildew.

• Plenty of lengths to choose from
• Supports most kinds of anchors for small boats
• Not UV-resistant

Ultimately, this rope stands out because of its durability, flexibility, noticeable lack of heft, and overall holding strength.

Multifilament polypropylene (aka MFP) ropes are all the rage nowadays because of their tensile strength and capability to withstand hefty loads. I’m fairly sure that this property is one of the main reasons this rope makes such an outstanding anchor support for solo fishing and cruising vessels.

I only partner it with my 15-foot aluminum fishing boat, along with a grapnel anchor, especially when I regularly go fishing at my local lake. I’ve been using it for close to five years already, but it hasn’t shown any sign of damage even with regular use. More importantly, it hasn’t ever snapped or frayed even when the wind and waves get a little rough and my vessel is positioned leeward.

I especially like that it doesn’t bunch up when stowing. Once you need to knot it, let’s say a mid-line loop knot can manage to keep it nice and tight. That earns you a great rope to have once you need to tie knots if that need arises.

Its most redeeming quality is its durability. I can attest that it has superior UV and rust protection. It exhibits a special kind of toughness that immediately reveals its superbly marine-friendly quality.

• High tensile strength and load capacity
• Solid durability
• Only supports boats 16 feet or smaller

Polypropylene lines are almost always easy on the hands. That’s one of the best attributes of this rope, plus it’s being made more UV resistant and flexible.

I almost always prefer lines that won’t give me blisters while easy to handle. This one’s reliable in that I know it has sufficient strength to hold my 25-foot pontoon in place while fishing. The material doesn’t feel rough at all, to the point that I won’t mind handling it with my bare hands when stowing it away.

I’ve had numerous instances when I anchored during exceptionally windy days in Lake Erie. Almost every time, it has never given me any problems keeping my pontoon boat alright. Again, I just make sure I don’t depart from the anchoring guidelines and manufacturer’s recommendations.

This 3/8 anchor rope certainly works for vessels not exceeding 26 feet. In fact, it works too well, based on my experience. I won’t even try to use it on anything larger since it’s one of those highly specialized lines that works outstandingly for a specific boat size. The 250-pound tensile strength limit exceeds my expectations, considering its amazing ability to handle wind speeds slightly over 40 km/h.

• High tensile strength limit
• Only available in one length

You can’t go wrong with this double braid, nylon offering from Norestar. It accommodates most boat sizes, even slightly larger vessels. It’s sufficiently strong and defines what a heavy-duty marine anchor rope is all about.

A friend recommended this to me back when I was still testing the waters with my anchoring setups. He called it his go-to line and after trying it out, I can’t agree more.

It’s easy on the hands and provides the right kind of holding power for my 26-foot Jon fishing boat. 9,000 pounds is the exact holding strength limit, and that’s way above-average for most anchor lines and ropes for solo fishing vessels.

I’m referring mostly to strong breezes when talking about the types of wind it can handle. I’ve had numerous occasions when it handled 50km/h breezes without even any sign of struggling.

It’s got amazing flex, too, so much so that it doesn’t become tangled when I pull it up for storage every time. I can easily cut it to the needed length because of the longer 150-foot length it always comes in.

• Sufficiently strong
• Available in versatile length
• Stainless steel fastener
• Doesn’t get tangled and knotted up
• Fibers are too fine, which can lead to fraying

This line exhibits the best that polypropylene and hollow braid ropes can offer. It’s marine-friendly, rot-resistant, waterproof, and provides generous support through its considerably capable holding power.

A hollow braid means it’s lightweight and rot and mildew resistant. True enough, this has been with me for more than five years already, and it has not frayed while lasting for that long. I like that it’s not a pain to clean, too, and since I want to maintain my lines well, I reckon it’s also thanks to that.

I’ve been using it on and off lately. During its earlier years, I used it relatively regularly during my fishing trips to the Florida Keys. It has always kept my fishing boat steady, and I can only recall a handful of instances when it tangled up when trying to stow it.

The most important thing is that it does its job well. It has just the right amount of thickness for me, so if you want a rope that slightly departs from the thin side, then this is a good candidate for you.

One other aspect I like that gets overlooked sometimes is that it’s not hard to see it every time I drop it down to its full length. The white color not only looks great but lends to visibility, which can be especially useful if you’re anchoring in unfamiliar waters.

• Adequate holding power
• Easy to clean
• Proven durability
• Not hard to lose sight of when fully deployed
• May tangle and knot up sometimes
• Subpar fastener

This 3-strand rope delivers good value for money. It’s got good holding strength for smaller boats (20 feet or less), is reliable for a long time, and doesn’t break the bank.

I have a 20-foot center console that I regularly take sailing and fishing in Lake St. Clair and Cape Cod. This is the rope I like to use when manually handling the anchor, but I also like to use it as an anchor rope for windlass reliant boats. The nylon’s strength and texture make it versatile and convenient to manage in that regard.

If I’m going to compare its strength to regular hand-woven rope, it’s tough to beat. I’d say it’s close to 50% stronger than the latter with the same diameter. And 500 pounds of breaking strength is still above average, considering it’s just your “average” 3-strand.

While many of the ropes featured here can handle saltwater just fine, this is the one that I’m 100% sure can handle prolonged exposure to saltwater and even the sun. I can’t praise this quality enough, especially considering the low price tag it comes with.

One other praiseworthy quality of the Maple Leaf brand is that they let you get custom rope lengths. I even requested a 25-foot version of this one time, and they actually obliged me. You just have to contact them directly. I’ve yet to enjoy this same privilege from other brands out there, especially the most recognized ones.

• Comparatively strong
• Durable and designed for saltwater use
• Supports custom rope lengths
• Ideal for small-boat applications
• Easy to handle
• Limited to boat sizes of 20 feet or below

Although made of polypropylene, this rope doesn’t disappoint with its high tensile strength. It works perfectly for complementing an actual anchor rope, though.

Make no mistake, I’ve used this bungee on its own, but I stick to its main purpose: which is to tether a tiny vessel offshore. I don’t actually use it for anchoring unless I splice it with another rope. It adds enough heft to substitute for a chain, however, you can’t use it on a windlass if you go for this setup.

It’s got enough strength on its own, enough to keep your boat from drifting. It imparts enough security, so you won’t have to beach your boat and worry that waves might carry it away. For anchoring purposes, I usually pair it with a fluke anchor , and I’ve never had any issues with it for the two years I’ve been using it.

I must say, I’m a low-key fan of the extra-bright orange color. It just screams out to you, in more ways than one. I definitely don’t have to struggle too much when trying to see it when I’m anchoring in deeper-than-normal depths.

• Works best when paired with an actual anchor rope
• High tensile strength
• Highly visible color
• Made of better-quality polypropylene
• Notably good stretch
• Not applicable for saltwater use

There are plenty of superior nylon options out there already. What makes this double-braided nylon any different? It delivers all the best aspects of nylon lines but adds more by making it smoother on the hands and more visible.

If you already know what makes nylon anchor ropes such a crowd favorite among sailors and fishing enthusiasts, then know that this rope delivers all of the qualities you want. First is exceptional strength. This is my go-to line when docking for longer days and a storm happens to be on the way.

It once had to handle winds of 50km/h when fishing at Lake Okeechobee. Although I inevitably had to call off the trip because of the uncooperative weather, I do have to say that one good thing that I got out of it is that it proved this rope’s reliability. It kept my Jon boat steady while docked all throughout.

It can handle heavier anchors (at most 25 pounds) and lighter ones, too. I’ve used it with flukes and grapnels, and it has always performed spectacularly. I consider it as one of the most versatile and reliable ropes I’ve used with all things considered.

It’s visibly made to last because of the marine-friendly materials, although, I can’t comment much about the durability yet since it’s a new acquisition. I like that it’s integrated with reflective strands so I can still see it at night. I’ve only had a few occasions to try out that feature, but it’s definitely more visible than my other ropes at night.

• Outstanding strength
• Feels smooth to the touch
• Reflective strands aid visibility
• More versatile than most ropes
• Marine-friendly durability
• Would be perfect if available in other lengths

Cheap doesn’t always mean you mean you have to compromise on quality. This product proves as much with its above-average nylon-like strength and reliability, all while keeping its price low.

If I’m a little strapped for cash or need a good, inexpensive line for my second anchor, I almost always choose this rope if it’s available. It’s got a decent quality than most polypropylene ropes I’ve used, so it’s safe to say that it’s great value for money. I can attest that it’s just as strong as most of the standard nylon ropes I’ve tried.

So strong, in fact, that it works well with my heavier alternative fluke anchors. I’ve even used it for supporting a large oak tree in my house that got toppled by a category-4 hurricane. I can’t ask for more from it if strength’s the topic.

It stretches well over time. I distinctly remember that it used to not tense as well as I liked it during the first few days and weeks of use. However, with regular use and after leaving it tensioned for longer periods of time, that issue disappeared altogether.

I appreciate the inclusion of a stainless steel thimble. For the price, that already makes this rope a bonafide steal. Unfortunately, I can’t report much yet about its longevity. I’m not holding my breath, but I’m still crossing my fingers that it will last – it’s been over a year, and it’s still functioning well.

• Relatively stronger than most polypropylene lines
• Stainless steel thimble
• More budget-friendly option
• Nice stretch
• Not as tightly weaved as other ropes

This 100 ft anchor rope has the right length to meet most requirements of tiny solo fishing boats, particularly 23 feet or below. It’s got every positive feature of a double braid such as the high breaking and tensile strength, comfort when handling, and exceptional durability.

I like to use this rope because of its near-perfect length for any kind of small-boat fishing. I take my 22-foot vessel regularly on my Dog Run Lake weekly fishing trips with this product as the main line. I make good use of the entire length of it almost all the time, as I like that it holds mid-line knots extremely well.

The breaking and tensile strength are generous and are definitely what I expect from a double braid. I once anchored my boat with it on a two-day storm. Didn’t struggle that much in the entire affair, and that’s without any additional precautions on my part. That’s what ultimately made me a believer.

It may be able to handle, at most, the usual 26-footer, but I won’t hesitate to swap it for a 1/2 anchor rope if I know that I’ll be dealing with extra stormy weather. It’s not as weighty as the other anchor ropes’ 3/8 I’ve owned and the texture makes it easy on the hands when pulling the anchor. Those qualities make it a breeze to handle.

• Perfect length for small-boat fishing
• Outstanding breaking and tensile strength
• Dries quickly
• Black color may affect visibility when fully deployed

This is one of the most stable ropes I’ve used. Stable in the sense that it can handle the pressure of windy days and heftier anchors. It has plenty of strength and is made of durable materials.

Nylon offers more flexibility than polyester or any other material. Since it’s also a double braid, this is one of the most flexible lines I’ve used.

It has kept my pontoon steady during high wind. In fact, it’s one of my preferred lines to use when I need to anchor for an extended period of time, and I am well aware that the weather’s not going to be cooperative.

Don’t be fooled by the thinness of the rope. It’s a toughie strength-wise, and I attribute most of it to the double braid. I use a 25-pound pyramid anchor with it, and it has always kept my vessel drift-free every time.

I can’t say much yet about the durability since I’ve only used it for less than 2 years. However, I have a good feeling that it will last because of its general design. I do like that it took the time to make the snap hook more marine-friendly by using stainless steel.

• Unrivaled strength
• Stainless steel snap hook
• Outstanding flexibility
• Satisfactory durability
• Well-designed overall
• Limited to small boats
• Black color makes it hard to see when deployed

• Boat Size Recommendations

Anchors and ropes are like bread and butter among boats. To meet your vessel’s specific requirements, you’ll need to be mindful of the size of your boat relative to the thickness of the rope. I’ll discuss this in greater detail in the answer to one of the questions provided below.

It’s better to refer to an anchor rope size guide for this and you can refer to one here.

You may need to use anchor rope and chain kits if you have a larger boat and a heavier anchor. You may want to watch this video first, so you can better orient yourself with what type and size of rope to choose:

• Type of Rope Construction

This mostly pertains to the braid of the rope. I usually like three-strand for its ease of splicing, reliability, and budget-friendliness, double braid for strength and durability, and solid braids for versatility. There are also octo plaits and anchor plaits, but they’re usually only used on bigger vessels like yachts.

• Rope Length Options

Anchor line length plays a pivotal role in making sure that you’re anchoring properly. I follow the standard guidelines of 8 feet of rope for every foot of depth. Having knowledge of the specific depth of the lake or ocean you will be anchoring or docking in pays off.

Take note that not all brands offer variety in rope lengths. It could be hard to get a 300 ft anchor rope, for example, as most are only available in 50-foot and 100-foot options. You can try asking the manufacturer if they offer customized rope lengths, though, as some are willing to offer them to you.

If you want good shock absorption, you need a rope with plenty of stretch, at least 15% or more. This isn’t usually an issue with nylon since it’s the gold standard when it comes to stretch. Polyester often pales in comparison.

As for me, I don’t usually have to worry about this because I use an anchor bridle as a solid workaround.

• Night Visibility

This is one overlooked perk of anchors with rope. If you’re prone to conduct nighttime fishing or sailing or just want your anchor line to be readily visible even at night, you may want to shun black ropes as much as possible. I also recommend those with bright colors or reflective strands.

What Kind of Rope Is Used for Anchors

There’s literally no kind of rope that’s specifically used for anchors. It’s just that manufacturers create ropes that are meant for anchoring, docking, and tethering a craft.

Boat anchor rope guides will point to the material used like nylon, polyester, and polypropylene when discussing the types of rope that are ideal for anchoring purposes. I’ve already discussed their qualities in the facts I’ve outlined above.

At best, these ropes can be summed up as having superior strength, capability to handle extreme nautical and weather conditions, can be easily handled, and should be compatible with windlass use. They can be tied into a knot and have adequate weight to sink without the need for a chain as much as possible.

Benefit and Drawbacks of Anchor Ropes

To me as well as any other sailor, rope will always be an essential anchor rope. It brings plenty of benefits such as uncomplicated handling compared to a chain, which tends to be heavier. It’s adequately constructed to handle the pressure added by the size and weight of a vessel as well as the ever-changing weather elements. It’s considerably economical, too.

The only major downside that it has is that it always has a chance of getting chafed, frayed, or cut. Unlike chain ropes, you’ll have the peace of mind that your boat will stay docked or anchored securely.

However, I can always make the valid counter-argument that there are no 100% chain ropes. Sailors only ever choose to splice ropes with chains if they need to increase the weight and add to stability and security. Rope will always be a fundamental part of any anchor rope precisely because it has no alternative, and that, to me, is its greatest advantage.

I don’t depart from the rule: ⅛ inch of rope diameter for every nine feet of the vessel’s length. This means if your boat spans 27 feet or a little lower than that, the ideal rope thickness would be ⅜ inch one. It’s hard to risk it with a thinner rope since that only raises the chances of the rope not handling the anchor’s and boat’s respective weights, leading to fraying and snapping.

I’ve already revealed my preferred anchor rope length to depth ratio above, and it’s also based on standard anchoring guidelines. You can try out this anchor rope length calculator shared in this forum discussion if you want a better reference. These are universal rules that apply in most nautical conditions, regardless of whether you’re sailing in the US, UK, or any country in the world.

Based on the top-tier anchoring guidelines, you will need exactly 160 feet of rope to accommodate that depth. There may be slight variations from that, but I’d say that’s the safest answer. It also falls under the average range of anchor line or rode length, which is between 150 to 200 feet.

Almost any anchor rope for sale nowadays can last for at least 3 years and at most 5 years. The three typical synthetic materials used can handle plenty of abuse, as long as they’re made with quality in mind. What’s good is that some manufacturers reinforce their products’ strength and durability with their braiding and weaving.

Of course, this doesn’t factor in the possibility of the rope chafing, fraying, or getting cut when the anchor snags. Always remember that a single storm may cause any rope to snap.

To sum things up, the best anchor rope should, first and foremost, be compatible with your boat’s size and the depth of the water you’ll be anchoring in. Once you achieve that, you’re guaranteed to get the most out of these nifty anchoring tools. Always take into consideration the holding strength, toughness, and convenience when using, so you’ll always be headed in the right direction.

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Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..

Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.

The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.

Playing Hooky

Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:

• Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use. For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
• Where You're Going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
• Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

Anchor Types

There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy Anchors

A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.

Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.

Grapnels Anchors

Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Anchors

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.

When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or "BRUCE" Anchors

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.

Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".

Line and Gear

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.

Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist

Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.

Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.

Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.

Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.

Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.

Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.

Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.

Minimum Working Rode Sizes

Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.

Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.

Setting Anchor

Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

• Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts or current changes.
• If your crew is not already wearing PFDs, have them put one on before going forward to set or retrieve an anchor or mooring.
• Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once tossed overboard.
• Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
• After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set, and then continue to release the rode.
• Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on the bow cleat.
• Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to the size of your boat.

Staying Put

It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.

Picking Up a Mooring

One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.

Common Anchoring Mistakes

• Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
• Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
• Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
• Approach a mooring from downwind. This will give you better maneuverability as you go to secure your boat to the ball.
• Go slow, so as not to disturb those already moored.
• After putting on PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boat hook to grab the eye or the base of the mooring ball.
• Once the mooring ball is at the bow--slow, stop or gently reverse engines to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information if it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.
• Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Pay attention to the possibility of chafing. You may want to use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the one provided is dirty.
• Some moorings may have an antenna like device called 'whip.' This is simply an extension of the ball so you don't have to reach as far to haul in the mooring line.
• Once secure, let the boat drift back and be sure that you are clear of those who have moored or anchored around you. There is no need to 'back down' on a mooring ball.
• Leaving a mooring is easy--just motor or pull up gently to the ball and release the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to clear yourself of the ball and the associated ground tackle.

Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.

• Pontoon Boat

What Size Anchor Rope for My Boat – 4 Types & Easy Guide

• Researched By WN Team
• Updated in June 12, 2022

When it comes to boating, one of the most important pieces of your vessel is the anchor. This is especially important if you expect to spend any time in one location, such as fishing, or if you want to spend the night on the open ocean. So, what size anchor rope for my boat, and what kind of rope should use for the boat’s anchor? And how do you figure out how much anchor chain or rope you’ll require? Anchor ropes come in a variety of sizes and materials, so it’s important to choose the right one for your purposes. In this blog article, we’ll go over what size anchor rope you’ll need for your boat and the various materials that are available. Stay safe and secure by selecting the appropriate anchor rope, size, and material for your boat.

Anchor Line

The anchor rope is used to secure an anchor to a ship. An anchor line is another name for it. It’s critical to pick the appropriate line to protect your boat from drifting away. Anchor lines are divided into three categories:

For anchor lines, anchor rope is preferred since it is lighter and easier to handle than the chain. The rope, on the other hand, is not as durable as the chain and may disintegrate in direct sunlight.

Because it is stronger than rope and does not deteriorate in sunlight, the chain is a common choice for anchor rodes. The anchor chain, on the other hand, is heavier than rope and might be more difficult to work with. The chain is also non-stretch, which might be beneficial in some situations. The disadvantage of utilizing a chain is that if it scrapes against your boat’s deck or hull, it might cause damage.

The hybrid is made up of both rope and chain. It’s more lightweight than a chain and more durable than a rope. The hybrid, on the other hand, maybe more expensive than either alternative.

Types of Anchor Rope

Anchor rope comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. Each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

Polypropylene

Polypropylene is a floatable synthetic fiber. It’s a terrific choice for anchoring in shallow water or near obstructions because of this. It’s also simple to handle and knot, and it won’t soak up water. Polypropylene rope, on the other hand, is not as robust as nylon rope and might be more difficult to splice.

Solid braid rope

Three-strand rope.

Another acceptable option for an anchor line is a three-strand rope. It is easy to splice and has good stretch. It is, however, not as strong as solid braid rope and can be more difficult to work with.

When looking for an anchor rope, keep these factors in mind:

The size of your boat.

It should come as no surprise that the larger your boat is, the larger the anchor, rope, and rope diameter you’ll require. It means anchor rope depends on boat length. A 20-foot boat, for example, will need an anchor line that is at least 150 feet long.

The weight of your anchor

The size and strength of the line you’ll require are influenced by the weight of your anchor, in addition to the boat length and strength of your boat. A thicker and stronger rope is required for a heavier or extra-weight anchor .

The type of bottom

The size and strength of your anchor rode are also affected by the type of bottom you’ll be anchoring in, whether it’s sand, mud, or rocks. For example, if you’re anchoring in rocky terrain, you’ll need a stronger line to avoid wear and strain. For shallow water or around obstructions, polypropylene is a suitable choice.

The length of the rode required

The size and weight of your anchor, as well as the sort of bottom you’ll be anchoring in, influence the length of the rode (rope). The rode should be at least five times the length of the water’s depth, according to a conventional rule of thumb. Your rode should be at least 100 feet long if you’re anchoring in 20 feet of water.

Now that you’re aware of the many elements to consider when selecting anchor rope length, you can choose the one that best meets your requirements. Check the strength and condition of your rope on a regular basis to verify that it is still in excellent operating order. And always err on the side of caution: having too much rope is preferable to not having enough.

What Size Anchor Rope for My Boat and How Much Need?

There are a few guidelines to follow when determining how much rope and chain you’ll need. These will give you a decent notion of what the bare minimum should be. It’s always preferable to have too much than too little.

You should have at least:

• Five times the water depth in feet of anchor rope size if anchoring in calm conditions with a soft bottom such as sand
• Six times the water depth in feet of anchor rope size if anchoring in moderate weather conditions with a harder bottom such as coral
• Seven times the water depth in feet of rope if anchoring in extreme conditions such as rock

How much rode you’ll need is also determined by the size and weight of your anchor. A thicker and stronger rope is required for a heavier anchor.

The rode should be at least five times the depth of the water, as a general rule. Your rode should be at least 100 feet long if you’re anchoring in 20 feet of water.

When choosing an anchor rode, make sure it’s suitable for the sort of bottom you’ll be anchoring in. If you’re anchoring in rocky terrain, for example, you’ll need a stronger line to avoid wear and strain. For shallow water or around obstructions, polypropylene is a suitable choice.

Now that you’re aware of the many elements to consider when selecting an anchor rope, you can choose the one that best meets your requirements. Check the strength and condition of your rope on a regular basis to verify that it is still in excellent operating order. And always err on the side of caution: having too much rope is preferable to not having enough.

You may learn more about  pontoon boats in these articles.

Video Credit: Enjoy Swimming

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Is it necessary to use an anchor chain, anchor rope, or a combination of the two.

It is not required to utilize an anchor chain for an anchor system, however, it is strongly suggested. The inclusion of an anchor chain will improve the entire anchor system or anchor windlass holding capacity. It also helps to prevent chafing on your rode (rope) produced by contact with the water’s bottom and other things.

How much anchor line do I need if I use an anchor chain?

In calm circumstances, the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) advises that your anchor line (rope + chain) be at least seven to ten times the sea depth. Your rode should be at least 140 to 200 feet long if you’re anchoring in 20 feet of water. It’s also crucial to choose an anchor rode that’s suited for the sort of bottom you’ll be anchoring in. If you’re anchoring in rocky terrain, for example, you’ll need a stronger line to avoid wear and strain. For shallow water or around obstructions, polypropylene is a suitable choice.

What is the best way to store my anchor rode?

Coiled on the deck or in a locker is ideal for keeping your anchor rode. It should never be left in a tangled mess on the deck or floor. To avoid mildew and damage, your anchor rode should be cleaned with fresh water and allowed to dry when not in use.

What are the most common types of anchor rodes?

Nylon, polypropylene, and chain are the three most popular forms of anchor rodes. The strongest option is nylon, but it’s also the heaviest and most costly. For shallow water or around obstructions, polypropylene is a suitable choice. The heaviest choice is the chain, but it has the most holding strength.

What are the benefits of using an anchor swivel?

A device that connects to your anchor rode and allows it to revolve freely is known as an anchor swivel. This decreases line wear and keeps it from becoming tangled or twisted. When employing an anchor chain, swivels are extremely useful.

What is the thickness of nautical rope?

The thickness of a nautical rope is usually between 0.25 and 0.375 inches. The stronger a rope is, the thicker it is. The thicker rope, on the other hand, is heavier and more difficult to handle.

What is the difference between braided and twisted rope?

Multiple strands of rope are braided together to form the braided rope. Twisted rope is created by twisting a single strand of rope around itself. Twisted rope is weaker than braided rope. Twisted rope is more pliable and manageable.

What are the most common types of anchor chains?

Galvanized, stainless steel and high-tensile anchor chains are the three most prevalent varieties. The cheapest choice is galvanized chain, but it corrodes rapidly. The cost of stainless steel chain is more, but it is more durable. The strongest choice is the high-tensile chain, but it is also the heaviest and most costly.

What should the thickness of mooring ropes be?

The thickness of the mooring ropes should be at least 0.375 inches. The stronger a rope is, the thicker it is. The thicker rope, on the other hand, is heavier and more difficult to handle.

What is a chafe guard?

A chafe guard is a device that connects to the end of your anchor rode to keep it from rubbing against the boat. Leather, canvas, and nylon are common materials for chafe guards. They aid in the longevity of your anchor rode and the prevention of damage to your boat.

What is a splice?

A splice is a method of putting two rope segments together. Splices are more durable than knots and do not weaken rope-like knots. The eye splice is the most common sort of splice. To make a loop in the middle of a rope, use this technique.

What is the best rope for maritime use?

Nylon rode is the ideal rope for marine applications. The strongest option is nylon, but it’s also the heaviest and most costly. For shallow water or around obstructions, polypropylene is a suitable choice. The heaviest choice is a chain rode, but a chain rode has the most holding strength because of chain diameter.

What are the different types of knots?

Knots come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but the bowline, clove hitch, and square knot are the most prevalent. A bowline is a tool that is used to make a loop in the middle of a rope. To secure a rope to a post or rail, use the clove hitch. The square knot is used to connect two long length of rope.

What are some tips for storing rope?

The rope should be kept in a cool, dry environment. It should never be left in a tangled mess on the deck or floor. To avoid mildew and damage, your anchor rode should be cleaned with fresh water and allowed to dry when not in use.

What are some tips for using rope?

It’s best to keep the rope in a cool, dry location. Never leave it in a tangled mess on the deck or floor. To avoid mildew and damage, clean your anchor rode with fresh water and dry it while not in use.

What are some tips for using an anchor?

To avoid causing damage to the boat, anchors should be handled with caution. Before deploying the anchor, make sure it is properly secured to the boat. To prevent placing too much strain on the anchor, the line should be payed out gently. To avoid injuring the line when retrieving the anchor, it should be hauled in gently.

What are some tips for caring for an anchor?

After each usage, clean the anchors with fresh water and allow them to dry. This will assist in keeping the anchor from corroding and increase its life. When not in use, the anchor should be kept cold and dry. Check the anchor and line for wear and tear on a regular basis.

Anchors are a crucial element of keeping your boat secure, but you must select the appropriate rope size and material for your purposes. Braided rope is more durable than twisted rope, yet both have advantages. The price of stainless steel anchor chain is more, but it is more durable. The thickness of the mooring ropes should be at least 0.375 inches. A chafe guard is a device that connects to the end of your anchor rode to keep it from rubbing against the boat. Nylon is the strongest, but it is also the heaviest and most expensive option for marine rope. To avoid mildew and damage, your anchor rode should be cleaned with fresh water and allowed to dry when not in use. Check the anchor and line for wear and tear on a regular basis. To guarantee that your anchor rope lasts as long as possible, follow these guidelines. Thank you for taking the time to read this!

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How to Use an Electric Windlass Anchor System

• By Ric Burnley
• June 5, 2024

Anchoring the boat is one of the most intimidating skills to learn for a boat operator. Securing a heavy boat with a rope, chain and anchor in strong current, heavy wind, and crushing waves presents the opportunity for catastrophic failure. A tangled chain, snagged rope or dragged anchor can quickly put the boat and crew in danger. 

And retrieving the anchor presents even more dangers. Pulling the anchor free puts tons of pressure on both the anchor rope and boat. But mostly pulling in the anchor line puts a lot of pressure on bones and muscles. 

Using an electric windlass anchor system to manage the rope, chain and anchor removes some of the work from the process, but doesn’t eliminate the potential for damage and injury. Learning how to use an electric windlass anchor system takes the intimidation out of anchoring the boat. 

What Is an Electric Windlass?

An electric windlass anchor system consists of a motor that turns a wheel to retrieve and deploy the anchor line and chain, called the anchor rode. Unlike a winch , which uses a large drum to reel in line, the windless wheel grips the line and feeds it into an anchor-rode locker. The windless takes less space but a winch is stronger. 

If used or installed incorrectly , a powerful motor turning a metal wheel at high speed under the pressure of a heavy anchor line is a recipe for disaster. But with some safety steps and an understanding of how the system works, a windlass can make boat anchoring significantly easier. 

System Preparation

Like any mechanical device on a boat, the anchor, windlass and rode require regular maintenance and inspection. The anchor is handy for mooring the boat at sea, and essential for securing the boat if the motor loses power. 

Before each trip, I check the anchor rode and electrical connections, and then test the windlass controls by running a few feet of rode through the gypsy. One of most common failure points is the anchor rope or chain jamming the anchor windlass jaws. Before operating the windlass anchor system, be sure the anchor rope isn’t tangled or snagged in the anchor locker. 

Double check the chain stopper pin and windlass brake to keep the anchor rope from accidentally deploying. When I’m using the anchor windlass, I never leave it unattended. A small problem with an electric boat anchor system only takes a moment to turn into a big problem.

Deploying the Anchor

The first step to anchoring is selecting an appropriate location. Before releasing the anchor, check the area is clear of obstructions and other boats and away from navigation channels and hazards. Consider how the current and wind will affect the boat as it swings on the anchor. Then, check the fish finder and chart to determine the bottom composition and choose the correct type of anchor for soft mud, sand or rocks.

The key to safely deploying the anchor is checking the rope , chain and all connections. Frayed rope, rusty chain and faulty knots and links could cause a failure while deploying the anchor. If the anchor rode breaks while at anchor, the boat is set adrift out of control. 

When using an electric windlass to deploy the anchor, it’s crucial to verify that the rope and chain move freely through the windlass and lie loosely in the anchor locker. Inspect the windlass for rope or chain that’s misaligned or pinched in the gypsy.

To deploy the anchor rope, unhook the chain stopper and use the anchor windlass controls to lower the chain and anchor rope. The best electric windlass anchor systems have control switches at the boat’s helm near the windlass. This allows the windlass operator to watch the line and control the windlass to prevent tangles and jams.

Some windlass systems have a free fall setting that allows the anchor to drop without resistance. This is a great feature for anglers looking to precisely anchor over structure. However, the free fall mode will not control the speed the rope moves through the windlass, making it even more important to observe the line and chain for potential tangles.

Once the anchor hits bottom, the rate the rope leaves the anchor locker slows down or goes slack. The formula for anchor scope is seven feet of line for every foot of depth. To properly hold bottom in 10 feet of water, the anchor requires 70 feet of scope. This formula varies depending on the type of anchor, bottom composition and the weather and water conditions. In heavy current and high wind over soft bottom, let out more line to ensure the anchor sticks securely.

Once the anchor is secure and the boat is sitting safely, tie the anchor rope to a bow cleat by wrapping the rope a full turn around the base of the cleat and then crossing the bitter end of the rope around the cleat horns. Never use the windlass brake to secure the rope. The weight of the boat and pressure of the current and wind could cause the rope to jam or slip.

Retrieving the Anchor in Nine Steps

The windlass pays for itself when it’s time to retrieve the anchor. Instead of muscling the anchor rope into the boat, the windlass motor does the hard work. Just like deploying the anchor, the powerful motor and heavy anchor rope offer potential for damage or injury. Here are the steps you should follow to avoid any danger:

• Before untying the anchor rope from the bow cleat, start the boat motor. If the windlass motor fails or the rope jams or breaks, the motor controls the boat until the problem is solved. 
• With one person at the windlass controls and another person at the helm, unwrap the rope from the cleat horns. I leave the rope wrapped around the cleat base to manually control the rope. 
• Bump the boat into gear and motor ahead slowly. With pressure off the line, I unwrap the rope from the cleat and release it to move through the bow bow roller.
• Then, I use the windlass controls to retrieve the line. Maintain communication between the windlass operator and the boat operator. Move the boat ahead to feed line through the windlass. Never use the windlass to pull the boat or break free the anchor. If the anchor is stuck in the bottom, tie the rope off to the bow cleat and use the boat motor to pull the anchor free. 
• Once the anchor is free of the bottom, take the boat out of gear or motor ahead very slowly and retrieve the rest of the line. 
• While retrieving line, observe the line feeding into the anchor locker. Pile the line loosely in the anchor locker so it can dry and it is ready to redeploy.
• When the anchor chain reaches the windlass, slow the retrieve to ensure the rope to chain link passes through the windlass. If the splice sticks in the gypsy, deploy a few inches of rope and realign the chain in the gypsy. 
• When the anchor reaches the surface of the water, slow the retrieve to allow the anchor to lodge in the bow roller without swinging and damaging the boat.
• To prevent the anchor from accidentally deploying, insert the locking pin through the chain and reverse the windlass a couple inches to take pressure off the mechanism. 

Safety Considerations

Using a windlass makes anchoring easier but not simpler. The mechanism takes the work out of lowering and raising the anchor, but the power of the mechanism increases the risk of damage or injury. Always keep in mind that the windlass is a very powerful machine capable of crushing bones and ripping skin. 

Here are some important tips to follow while using an electric windlass:

• Keep hands, feet, long hair and dangling clothes away from the spinning windlass gypsy. Also, keep away from the rope as it feeds through the windlass. 
• If you need to clear rope in the anchor locker or free a jam in the windlass, stop the motor before moving in to work. The windlass operator needs to observe the rope and chain and control the speed of the windlass to maintain proper working pressure on the gypsy and keep the line and chain feeding smoothly through the windlass. 
• Never allow the windlass brake to hold the boat on anchor or secure the anchor rope while underway. Always cleat off the anchor line while the anchor is deployed and be sure to pin the anchor chain while the boat is underway. The windlass brake is only designed to stop the rope and chain, if the brake fails, the anchor could deploy accidentally. 
• Always insert the locking pin when the anchor is stowed and tie off the anchor rope when the anchor is deployed. And stay clear and alert when the windlass is operating. 
• To keep the windlass running properly and further avoid damage or injury, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintaining the moving parts and electrical connections. 
• To extend the life of the anchor rode and anchor, allow the rope to dry in a well ventilated anchor locker and wash and clean the chain and anchor between uses. 

Explore Your Electric Windlass Anchor Options

For small boats a windlass is a convenience, for large boats a power anchor system is a necessity. On any boat, a windlass makes the anchor easier and safer to deploy and retrieve. 

A vertical windlass is more powerful but takes up more space. A horizontal windlass requires less deck space, but is more difficult to install. A windlass with a low-profile gypsy and a drum allows the motor to handle heavy rope and chain. The best windlass rope and chain packages use a spliced connection to keep the windlass working correctly. 

What size windlass do I need?

Choosing the correct size windlass depends on the size and weight of the boat and the expected anchoring conditions. Manufacturer guidelines help match the size of the windlass to the boat’s length and weight. However, if you plan to anchor in heavy current, big waves and high wind, using a larger windlass will provide more power to match the anchoring conditions. Another consideration is the physical size of the windlass. Check to make sure the windlass base will fit in the mounting location and the anchor locker will accommodate the anchor rode. 

Do you have to tie off a windlass anchor?

Yes. The windlass is used to deploy and retrieve the anchor rope. It should not be used to pull the boat or secure the anchor. Use the boat motor to propel the boat towards the anchor and use a cleat to secure the anchor rope. When the anchor is retracted, a locking pin keeps it in place so it doesn’t accidentally deploy.

How do I choose an anchor windlass?

Two choices for an anchor windlass: vertical and horizontal. The name refers to the gypsy axle running horizontally or vertically to the boat’s bow. A vertical windlass has the drum or gypsy mounted above deck and the motor and electrical connections protected below deck. A vertical windlass has more power and uses less energy but requires a larger anchor locker. A horizontal windlass, like a Lewmar windlass , has the gypsy and motor mounted above deck. Consult the boat manufacturer’s recommendations to choose a vertical or horizontal windlass.

• More: Affiliate , anchoring , Boating Safety , How-To , Seamanship , Windlass

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The Rundown: An All Encompassing Look at the New NRS Slipstream Raft

Welcome to: “The Rundown”. In our newest editorial series, we’ll provide an all-encompassing look at the latest and greatest products from your favorite brands in the fly fishing and outdoor space. Here, we’ll run over high-level info, tech specs, and our opinions – all paired with a behind-the-scenes interview with product designers who have poured their hearts into bringing these creations from blueprints to the showroom floor.

In this Rundown, we’ll look at the newest release from Idaho-based fishing and whitewater vessel company, NRS , to bring you an all-encompassing look at their latest release: The “Slipstream” Fishing Raft .

Background:

If you’re floating down any river West of the Mississippi, on any given warm and sunny day, there’s a good chance you’ll be seeing an NRS raft making its way down current as well. These iconic watercrafts have been a staple to the angling community, as well as the white water community for decades now.

Based out of Moscow, Idaho; NRS or NorthWest River Supplies,  has been manufacturing watercrafts and other river-sport necessities (such as apparel, Life jackets, technical gear, and much more), since 1972. In 2014, following NRS founder, Bill Parks’ retirement, the company became 100% employee-owned. This is a rarity in our modern, fast-paced economy, and is an approach that sets NRS apart from any other river-product manufacturer out there.

Over the course of the last few years, NRS has heard an increased amount of demand from the angling community for more fishing-focused products and has taken the feedback in stride. With the release of everything from fishing appare l and outerwear, to new fishing-conscious PFDs and Kyaks, NRS has been dumping time, money, and resources into meeting the needs of the rapidly expanding conventional, and fly fishing communities.

It’s a culmination of these efforts which have led to the birth of what we’re talking about today; the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft . Or as we see it, A fishing raft like no other.

What’s New: 

When it comes to the Slipstream Fishing Raft , there are a ton of new features that have been put in to accommodate angling needs. Below, we’ll highlight which ones we think are most notable, and why:

• (From NRS ): “Slipstream rafts feature a streamlined design with deliberately placed d-rings, handles, and valves to reduce weight and eliminate catch points.”

One of the most annoying things that anglers experience when fishing out of a raft (or any boat/ vessel/ scenario), is line getting caught on things. Anyone who has ever fly-fished understands that fly-line was designed by the devil, and serves the sole purpose of getting wrapped around, tangled in, or caught up on anything that it can – including itself. With older raft models, things like casting platforms, protruding frames, and D-rings are the most common culprits when it comes to eating fly line. This is not only super frustrating to deal with when fishing, but can also severely damage your fly line. Which, we all know is pretty expensive.

The beauty of the Slipstream is that it was made with that issue in mind, and eliminated as many rings, valves, and other hazards for your line to get caught around. Most notably, the casting platforms.

• “4” drop-stitch floor provides a super stable platform, eliminating the need for casting platforms. Insert is protected inside a zippered PVC pocket.”

Speaking of the loss of casting platforms, we believe the drop-stitch floor is the key element that sets this raft apart from the rest…

With this new design, gone are the days of dancing around/balancing on elevated plastic floors while trying to fish. The new, 4″ drop-stitch floor runs level from the front of the boat to the back, providing a single, sturdy floor for all anglers and the rower to share. This doesn’t only greatly improve the front and rear angler’s experience, but also provides a sturdy and flat floor for gear storage, such as coolers, fly boxes, dry boxes, and whatever else you want on your boat.

Additionally, the floor is lined with an EVA foam pad which provides great traction, even when wet. It also features an additional valve, located conveniently underneath the rower’s seat, which can be inflated or deflated independently from the rest of the raft, at any time.

• “[Includes] Fishing Rod Holder to stow (2) 9′ rods”

One extra item that is provided in the Deluxe package, which we think is definitely worth mentioning, is the aluminum rod holder which can be attached to either side of the frame. We know from first-hand experience, the easiest place to break a rod, is in a crowded raft. In the chaos of fishing, or even just entering and exiting the raft, a slight misstep can result in $1000+ down the drain, or at least an inconvenient Saturday spent mailing your precious fly rod back to the manufacturer for repair. Neither option is very fun – but it’s something we’re all super familiar with.

This rod holder is made to line the outside of the frame, and conveniently stores your party’s fly rods in a way they’re easily accessible, and also out of harm’s way.

• “The frame includes an internally routed anchor system that’s controlled from the rower’s seat…”

The last insanely cool feature we want to make sure to talk about is the new Slipstream Fishing Raft’s internal anchor system. With almost every other fishing raft, the anchor rope lines the side of the raft and is exposed. This can lead to the rear angler getting tangled with the anchor rope, things getting caught in it, and unnecessary weathering from exposure to the elements.

With the Slipstream fishing raft, however, the anchor rope runs from the sidebar beside the rower’s seat, through the actual raft frame, and out of the frame in the back to the anchor. This creates just one more element of streamlined engineering that keeps unnecessary obstacles out of the way of the raft’s users.

Tech Specs:

Here is the full tech spec sheet from the NRS website.

( Note: these are the specs for the Slipstream 139 Raft , which is the raft shown in the photos within this article. For other models, please reference the “specs” noted on the NRS Slipstream 120’s Page , or the NRS Slipstream 96’s Page . These specs are also for the “Deluxe package”, see website for more details).

Our experience:

In the Spring of 2021, we were privileged enough to receive one of the first prototypes of the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft to test out on our home waters. Since then, this raft has been dragged over rocks, sent through white water, bounced off of trees, caught by hundreds of hooks, left out in the sun, rain, and snow – and has yet to give us a single reason not to love it.

It’s important when reviewing a product to point out the shortcomings as well as what we like, but we’ve had a lot of difficulty doing so. This raft is an amazing size for running medium to large rivers but is versatile enough to be used on small rivers, and even stillwater. With its streamlined construction and drop-stitch floor, our angling experience has been greatly enhanced, and we’ve spent so much more time fishing, and so much less time trying to untangle the line.

All this being said, we are even baffled by the price. You can buy the raft’s “Deluxe Package”, which features all the contents above, for all under $6k. In our opinion, that’s pretty unbelievable.

We don’t want to give away too much more, here. But, stay tuned for our Full Gear Review on the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft which will be coming soon.

An interview with NRS Fishing Manager: Mike Dolmage

In our final portion of “The Rundown” we had a chance to ask NRS Fishing Manager, and someone who has been working on the slipstream since it was just words on paper: Mike Dolmage. Here’s what he had to say about his experience in the Slipstream’s design process:

Flylords: Who are you and what is your position at NRS ?

Mike: I’m the NRS Fishing Category Manager and Hardgoods Product Manager. I’ve been a passionate fly angler for over 30 years, living life in search of the next cast. Fall and winter seasons you’ll find me swinging Pacific Northwest waters for steelhead and in search the rest of the year for new adventures on the fly. When not on the water, I’m involved with the preservation and conservation of our waters and resources as anglers.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Mike Dolmage (@inlandpnwonthefly)

Flylords: What was your role in bringing the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft to life? 

Mike: My role was creating the vision for a complete NRS Fishing raft package. I conducted extensive research to identify the key features that anglers and rowers demand on a  fishing watercraft. We were focused on providing ultimate stealth fishing watercrafts for the adventure angler seeking remote fishing areas off the beaten path, and on keeping the angler focused on fishing without concerns of stability, line snags, or whitewater performance. Based upon the feedback we created conceptual CAD for the fishing raft package, and collaborated with our frame shop to make the Slipstream series of fishing rafts a reality. The Slipstream series of fishing rafts were successfully launched in 2022, and the Slipstream 120 won the 2022 IFTD Best Of Show Boat/Personal Watercraft. I’ve continued to travel all over North America and introduce the adventure possibilities of the Slipstreams.

Flylords: From start to finish, where did the Slipstream see the biggest challenges? 

Mike: The biggest challenge of the Slipstreams has been navigating the supply chain hurdles that continue to impact manufacturers and factories since Covid. Keeping up with the demand has been an awesome and difficult task at the same time. We work tirelessly to keep Slipstreams rolling out to customers.

Flylords: What was the initial thought process behind the Slipstream? What role was it made to fit?

Mike: The initial thought process behind the Slipstreams was to utilize NRS’s 50-year whitewater river heritage, and provide watercrafts that allow anglers to explore waters they haven’t considered before. We keep the adventure angler at the core of our product inspiration empowering them to take any journey the imagination can think of. The Slipstreams were designed to handle any type of water, and lightweight enough to transport/launch without a trailer or boat ramp.

Flylords: What kind of angler would you say each Slipstream model is built for?

Mike: The Slipstream 139 – designed for big water multi-day adventures or single-day outings with maximum cargo space and room for two anglers and a rower.

Slipstream 120 – designed for ultimate water versatility on multi-day or single-day journeys that require whitewater or tight skinny stream stealth performance with a rower and up to two anglers.

Slipstream 96 – designed to pack the most performance and transportability into a watercraft for a rower and angler. The Slipstream 96 is lightweight and easy enough to transport rooftop or in the bed of a pickup.

Flylords: What are some of your personal favorite features of the Slipstream?

Mike: The internal anchor system running through the raft framework and out the center of the stern provides an anchor system without any exposed rope.

The drop-stitch floor with EVA texture provides a rock-solid lightweight platform for standing without the risk of slipping.

The Deluxe Slipstream packages offer a dual rod holder that allows the angler to keep extra rods rigged up for changing conditions on the water.

Flylords: How do you think the design of the slipstream will affect the way that NRS and other raft manufacturers will design their rafts moving forward?

Mike: The Slipstreams set the bar for future fishing watercrafts to be ultra-transportable but still capable of whitewater environments.  We’ve transported Slipstreams for fishing adventures in anything from vehicles to helicopters and planes. The Slipstreams are an example of empowering anglers to reimagine a new horizon for adventures.

Thank you for checking out this installment of: “The Rundown”. Stay tuned for more activations surrounding the latest and greatest from your favorite Brands in the fly fishing space.

Thank you to NRS for working with us on this project, which has been years in the making. To learn more about the Slipstream Fishing Raft, you can find it HERE . Also, be sure to follow NRS on Instagram to keep up with the newest advancements from our friends in the Gem State.

This article was published as part of a paid campaign between Flylords LLC and Northwestern River Supply Co. All opinions presented in this article are genuine and solely reflect the opinions of Flylords LLC. 

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