tartan 10 sailboat specs

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• Sailboat Reviews

While not as well-built or comfortable as some other boats, the Ten does her thing--racing--very well.

The Tartan Ten was born out of a popular rebellion against the international Offshore Rule (IOR) in the mid 1970s. This was the worst period in the IOR’s history, when production sailboats were outdesigned even before their molds were finished. Although the IOR has since then gotten its act together, a great many of its early proponents had been lost for good by 1979. The disenchanted went in two directions—PHRF and offshore one-design.

The Tartan Ten is the child of Charlie Britton of Tartan Marine. Britton was one of the first to recognize the market for offshore one-designs. While he was conceptualizing the Tartan Ten, the J/24—soon to become the most successful offshore one-design—was being tooled up for production, although Britton didn’t know it was on the horizon. He was impressed by the Danish-built Aphrodite 101. It’s no coincidence that the Tartan Ten bears a resemblance to some of her features. Sparkman and Stevens designed the boat for Tartan in 1977; production began in early 1978, and ran through 1989.

Most of the boats built went to sailors on the Great Lakes, and most of them spend most of their time racing one-design. There are several hundred boats in the national class association, and the majority of those members race in one-design fleets on Lake Erie and Lake Michigan. According to class officials, there is one-design racing every weekend on Lake Erie, and small fleets in Long Island Sound, Chesapeake Bay, Houston and Jacksonville. Unlike a great many boats that tout themselves as offshore one designs, the Tartan Ten is one of the few boats that has accumulated enough numbers to actually race as a one-design.

When the Tartan Ten was introduced in 1978 at a base price of $21,500, she sold easily. Several boats a week were produced in the years immediately following. Then a steady series of price increases, the recession of 1981 and the first signs of a saturated market began to take their toll on sales. For Charlie Britton, a boatbuilder first and a businessman second, the problems of running so large a business was more than he wished to handle. So in the spring of 1982, production of the Tartan Ten ceased and Britton put his company up for sale. By the spring of 1983 he found a buyer in John Richards and production began again at the rate of two Tartan Tens a month.

Construction

While we wouldn’t consider the Tartan Ten to be one of the better-built racers, she doesn’t have to be. Since she is primarily intended to race against her sisters, consistency between boats is perhaps more important than superior (and hence, more expensive) construction. The major construction criterion she must meet is to be sufficiently seaworthy to endure an occasional short offshore race. She meets this criterion, although, like too many production boats, she barely makes it.

There have been a number of problems with the Tartan Ten over the years. Tartan Marine generally acted responsibly in correcting them. The worst problems occurred in the first 100 boats. For example, the original hollow stainless steel rudder posts were too light and bent too easily. According to Tartan, every boat with that type of rudder post was located and repaired by inserting a second post inside the original one.

A second problem was with the reinforcement of the hull around the keel sump and under the mast step. From 5′ forward of the transom, the Tartan Ten’s hull is cored with 1/2″ balsa, except in the bilge area, which is stiffened by a grid of hollow, hatshaped fiberglass floors and stringers. Because the Tartan Ten has a relatively flat underbody and fin keel, she is more susceptible to flexing of the bilges than a boat with deeper, more rounded bilges.

In the first 90 boats, the grid was neither stiff enough nor attached to the hull securely enough to prevent flexing. As a result the fiberglass tabbing which holds the grid to the hull began peeling off. On a few boats, small cracks developed in the grid and in the bilges. Tartan claimed that it sent repairmen all around this country to track down and fix every boat earlier than hull #84. In most cases the repair consisted of removing the old tabbing and re-tabbing with a heavier laminate. In cases where the grid or hull actually showed damage, more substantial repairs were made. According to Britton, “We got every one of them.”

The mast step has been strengthened several times during the Tartan Ten’s history. The Tartan Ten has a deck-stepped mast, rare in non-trailerable racers, because they offer less control of mast bend. They are no less seaworthy than a keel-stepped mast, provided there is adequate support underneath the mast, such as a compression post or bulkhead in the cabin.

The Tartan Ten’s compression post sits on top of the floor grid. After the initial problems with the first 83 boats, a 5″x4″x1/4″ aluminum plate was used under the compression post to distribute the load. The thickness of the aluminum plate was later increased to 1/2″. Mast step problems still existed to some degree after the first 83 boats. On a hull numbered in the 150s, we observed that the compression post had been moved off the floor grid (presumably because it was crushing it) and lengthened with a threaded extension so it rested directly on the hull.

Unlike most boats, which have shroud chainplates which extend above deck, the Tartan Ten’s shrouds pass through the deck to chainplates in the cabin. Although this may reduce windage and genoa chafe, the hole in the deck is difficult to seal. Many owners report chronic deck leaks around the shrouds.

The chainplates are anchored on a heavy fiberglass “tab” which extends up from the topsides inside the main cabin. According to the manufacturer, there were two chainplate tab delaminations in the first 100 boats. Tartan attributes this to the hull being cored under the tab. Tartan didn’t take steps to correct the potential problem until nearly 100 boats later. One owner of a 150-series boat reported that he had reglassed one chainplate tab after he noticed the telltale signs of delamination—the color of the tab changing from dark green to white where it is anchored to the hull.

By hull #200 Tartan had eliminated the core under the tab and began anchoring it directly to the outer skin of the hull. This didn’t completely solve the problem, according to Britton. Because the section of the topsides around the chainplates was uncored, that section could dimple inward slightly under heavy rig loads, causing isolated incidences of gelcoat blistering and delamination. Tartan corrected this problem shortly afterward—”about hull #270,” according to Britton, by widening the chainplate tab from 12″ to 18″.

Although the Tartan Ten is cored through 80% of her hull, she exhibits a fair amount of structural flexing. As one successful Tartan dealer pointed out, “she’s not overbuilt like the rest of the Tartan line.” We had several reports of the cockpit flexing noticeably while sailing in rough weather. Part of the reason is that the bulkheads under each side of the cockpit are glassed firmly to the hull, but very poorly attached to the cockpit seats. Also the main bulkhead is well forward of the mast and divided by the forward berth. A bulkhead in two halves located away from the chainplates is not very effective in absorbing rig loads. Instead the hull will flex.

The Tartan Ten’s hull-to-deck joint consists of an inward turned hull flange overlapped by the deck and topped by an aluminum toerail. The hull-to-deck joint is bedded with butyl tape, which stays soft and rubber-like for the life of the boat. It has no adhesive properties, but is a good watertight sealant. We have seen it melt and “bleed” out of hull-to-deck joints on occasion.

A strip of aluminum is glassed under the hull flange. This allows Tartan to fasten the hull and deck with bolts, but without nuts, by tapping the bolts through the aluminum insert—a real time saver. The bolts must be bedded, though, or corrosion would compromise the integrity of the joint, especially important since there is no chemical bond to fall back on. Tartan beds the bolts with silicone, which is probably adequate, but a chromate paste would be a better (although more expensive) bedding material. The hull laminate was strengthened when production was into hulls numbered in the early 100s. A heavier mat was added to improve the bond between the balsa core and the laminate. An extra layer of fiberglass was added to the hull laminate as well.

The mast of the Tartan Ten is a “safe” section. It bends easily with the backstay, but is sufficiently strong to sail without running backstays in a strong breeze. The shrouds are swept back.

The mast is not anodized. On early boats, it was finished with clear lacquer; later it was painted black. According to Frank Colaneri of Bay Sailing Equipment, who rigged all Tartan Ten masts until the mid-’80s, finishing with lacquer or paint is cheaper than anodizing.

On the first 150 or so boats the jib and spinnaker halyards are both wire and exit the mast above the hounds. They then lead through “bullseye” fairleads which have a tendency to chew the wire. (Colaneri called them “wireeaters.”) This system was redesigned so that now the wire jib halyard exits below the mast without a fairlead, and the spinnaker halyard, still exiting above the hounds, was changed to rope.

Schaefer booms were used on the first 70 boats, and bent reefing hooks were a problem. Since then Tartan has used Kenyon booms. The Kenyon booms have no outhaul car, instead relying on clew slugs to support leech tension. According to Colaneri, many booms had to be retrofitted with stainless plates over the sail slot because the clew slugs had pulled through the slot.

Handling Under Power

After hull #309 the Tartan Ten was equipped with an 11 hp Universal diesel. Before then a Farymann 7.5 hp diesel was standard. On boats prior to hull #200, excessive vibration and shaft coupling failures were a problem. According to Britton, the cause was poor shaft alignment. Britton says flexible shaft couplings were used on the first 200 boats, because Tartan was afraid the boat would bend under rig tension. The use of flexible couplings meant less attention was paid to alignment—hence occasional coupling failure and excessive vibration. Solid couplings were used on subsequent boats. “We thought we were bending the boat (by tensioning the rig), but we were wrong. Now we know it’s better to concentrate on alignment and use solid shaft couplings,” says Britton.

Because vibration could be a problem, when considering a used Tartan Ten you should check both the engine mounts and the electrical harness on the back of the engine. The covering of any wires attached to the engine should be checked for wear.

Tartan Ten owners report that the Farymann is relatively trouble free, runs well and is easy to hand start should the battery run down. Owners also say it tends to be underpowered. “Doesn’t do well into the wind,” reported one owner. A folding prop is standard equipment.

Access to the engine is excellent. The fiberglass engine box is light and lifts off easily and, because it also doubles as the companionway step, slides forward without obstruction. The box is easy to refit and latch in place. With the box off, all engine parts are accessible.

Handling Under Sail

Tartan Ten owners rave about performance. She may not be a ULDB, but she’s fast for a 33-footer. Typical comments are “Offwind we pass 36′ masthead rigs,” “rides waves well; good control downwind,” and “recorded 15.2 knots, sustained 10.5 knots.”

However, owners do not rave about her handicap ratings. The Tartan Ten was not designed to fit any handicapping rule. She carries an astronomical IOR rating of about 28.5. Under PHRF she rates from 123 to 132, depending on the handicapper. Most PHRF fleets assume that you have a 155% genoa, and the most common rating is 126. Some fleets, such as Detroit, allow the Tartan Ten to sail with its one-design inventory (100% jib) at a rating several seconds slower.

Owners report that she will sail to a rating of 126 in light air with a 155% genoa. However, with her narrow beam, she is tender and becomes overpowered quickly. In winds over 12 knots, she has difficulty winning with a rating of 126. Using a one-design inventory, the Tartan Ten will sail to a rating of 132 in medium winds. Although she is always fast downwind, owners say she has a difficult time making up what she loses upwind in a strong breeze.

Those who want to race both one-design and PHRF have several problems. Until 1982 headfoils were illegal for class racing. The class has dropped this rule to encourage Tartan Ten owners to race PHRF. Running backstays are still illegal for class racing. Although they’re not necessary to keep the spar in the boat, backstays nonetheless will improve performance slightly without rating penalty. Another, more subtle problem, is that a sailmaker will design the working sails of a class inventory differently than he would for a larger inventory. For example, a 100% jib that must be used for both light and heavy air in one-design racing will be a lot more powerful than a 100% jib for a larger PHRF inventory.

Despite its drawbacks the Tartan Ten still makes for enjoyable PHRF racing because its sailplan is so manageable, the boat is so maneuverable, and its cockpit is so easy to work in. It’s hard to believe you’re on a 33′ when you’re racing one; the boat feels much smaller.

As good as PHRF racing can be, one-design racing is even better. Owners report that all boats are extremely well-matched. In this year’s 40′ national championship, the second and third place teams sailed borrowed boats—boats that had not done well in previous regattas. Tartan Ten sailors may push their boats hard, but as a whole they don’t push them hard enough to cause major gear failures. We have no doubt that a hot SORC team could rip a Tartan Ten apart, but for its purpose the boat is well suited.

Before each boat leaves the factory, it is placed in an outdoor pool, and 50-100 lbs of lead is glassed to the hull 5′ forward of the mast to make her float on her lines. Flotation marks are molded into the hull to insure that the lead is not subsequently moved to change the boat’s trim. This helps make the boats equal in performance.

The keels are relatively fair from the factory, although most racers will want to spend a weekend making them smoother.

Most Tartan Tens race with a crew of 5-8. Although she is a light boat, her narrow beam limits the effectiveness of crew weight. Unlike beamier counterparts, such as the J/30, packing on more crew in a strong breeze is not essential. For best performance, the backstay and traveler must be constantly adjusted. Some of the more successful racers routinely barber-haul the jib outboard in strong puffs. As with any light displacement boat, you must be quick on sail trim to keep her level and driving.

Deck Layout

The Tartan Ten is equipped with a tiller, as any boat this small and light should be. With a tiller, though, you need a larger cockpit. The cockpit of the Tartan Ten is 9 1/2′ long, which gives the crew plenty of room for racing. The companionway, though, is obstructed by long stainless steel handrails. When tacking, the crew must all pass through the cockpit.

The cockpit seats have short, outward-angled seatbacks with a small coaming. This provides a modicum of day sailing comfort without sacrificing much racing efficiency. The slotted aluminum toerail does, however, compromise racing comfort. The crew could slide farther outboard for more hiking leverage if it weren’t for the toerail painfully biting into the backs of their thighs. Owners report that the cockpit drains quickly when pooped by a large wave. It nevertheless is worrisome, because its large volume would hold a lot of water, and its 6″ companionway sill would do little to keep that water from rushing below. We wouldn’t race it in rough weather without all companionway drop boards locked in place.

The rudder post exits the deck through a cockpit coaming that wraps around the stern. A tiller is attached to the post; when lifted and lashed to the backstay it leaves the cockpit unobstructed for an extraordinary amount of cockpit space at the mooring. The mast is stepped into a cast aluminum collar on deck. The collar is not hinged. The running rigging exits through the bottom of the mast, then runs through sheaves built into the collar and aft through sheet stoppers to Lewmar 16 winches on each side of the cabin house. Several owners said they had moved or replaced the stoppers made by Delta.

The primary winches are Lewmar 30s. Secondary winches are permitted under class rules, but are not offered as a factory option. Some owners report that larger primary winches are helpful to trim the genoas used for handicap racing. On the boat we sailed, the sheet tracks were backed with strips of aluminum, but the backing plates for the winches were 1/8″ plywood.

The deck gelcoat provides good traction, but this also makes it more difficult to clean. Stanchion bases, made for Tartan by High Seas, bolt through the deck and through the toerail. On the boat we examined there were no backing plates on the throughdeck stanchion bolts, but bolting through the toerail gives the installation adequate rigidity. Several owners reported that the welded sockets for the stanchions have failed.

The boom vang runs in a single part up from the mast step to the boom, then forward to the gooseneck, down to the deck via a 6:1 purchase, and aft to a winch. At the gooseneck, it attaches to a small welded eye, which could be of heavier gauge.

The backstay is split with a 4:1 purchase deadended on the stem. A crewmember would have to sit aft of the helmsman to play the backstay. The ball bearing traveler spans the cockpit and is easily adjusted with its 3:1 purchase. The 5:1 mainsheet deadends on the traveler car.

For a 33-footer, there isn’t much to the Tartan Ten’s interior. Headroom is only 5′ 2″. However, the companionway hatch is in three pieces and lifts off for stowage below, opening a 5′ long “skylight” in the cabin. This feature provides some amount of standing headroom below, without having to sacrifice the clean lines of the deck to a high cabin trunk. Erecting a dodger over the companionway encloses the standing headroom. The hatch cover could be stronger: we nearly cracked it by stepping on it.

There is no icebox in the cabin. A portable cooler stores in one of the two cockpit lazarettes. The standard head is a portable, stowed under the forward V-berth. Nearly every owner we talked to complained of its smell and said that it is difficult to empty. Most had either discarded it for a cedar bucket or installed a full marine head. There is no built-in stove and the chart table is small.

There is a small sink with a hand pump on the port side. On boats prior to hull #200, the water tank was installed under the starboard quarterberth, with the fuel tank under the port quarterberth. With the water tank and sink on opposite sides, all the water in the tank would drain out through the sink on port tack. Tartan’s retrofit was a rubber plug for the sink nozzle. By hulls numbered in the early 200s, they had switched the position of the fuel and water tanks, solving the problem.

The interior of the Tartan Ten is dark. The bulkheads, cabinetry and cabin sole are teak-veneered plywood. We would paint the settees white. The forward V-berth is a comfortable 6′ long. The “filler,” or section of the berth that covers the Porta Potti is removable for access to the head. However, the filler sits on very narrow cleats, so when you climb over it to get out of the berth, the filler frequently falls off its cleats and you tumble onto the head (Ugh!).

Vertical posts from the overhead to both the sink and the nav station make good handrails for moving about below in a seaway. Under both the sink and nav station are small lockers with zippered cloth coverings instead of doors. There is further stowage under the main berths and quarter berths. These stowage bins are not insulated from the hull, but because the boat is cored, condensation should be minimal. The bins are sealed from the shallow sump if they weren’t sealed, any water in the bilge would predictably soak their contents. One owner commented, “There should have been no attempt to create six berths at the expense of adequate storage.”

On the boat we sailed the joinerwork and furniture tabbing were mediocre. The overhead panels were sloppily fitted. The ceiling is covered with a padded vinyl liner. A strip of wood covers the hullto-deck joint.

There were several major changes to the interior after hull #160. In earlier boats, both the main berths and quarterberths were “root” berths. Root berths are somewhat like pipe berths. They consist of cloth anchored to the side of the hull and slung to a pipe running the length of the berth. The pipe fits into notches so that the angle of the berth can be adjusted to suit the boat’s angle of heel. Another piece of cloth attaches with Velcro to the pipe to form a seat back. While the root berth makes for comfortable sleeping underway, it is far less comfortable than a fixed berth to sit in while the boat is anchored.

After hull #160, the root berths in the main cabin were abandoned for fixed berths, with a dual purpose design backrest/leeboard. Additional stowage bins were added over the main berths. A drop leaf table was also added between the main berths. It is doubtful whether it would survive the rough and tumble of hard racing. We suspect most owners remove it for racing.

Conclusions

Like any boat, the Tartan Ten is built to a price for a particular purpose. She is not built as well, nor laid out as lavishly as, say a J/30; but she is also much less expensive. People don’t buy Tartan Tens to make long offshore passages, nor do they buy them for extended cruising. People buy them to day race, either as a one-design or under a handicap rule. Maybe they throw in an occasional weekend cruise.

The Tartan Ten is a joy to day race. It is easy to maneuver and crew on, offers lively performance, and is affordable. We think that one-design racing would be far more fun than handicap racing. At least under one-design you are competitive in all wind velocities.

The Tartan Ten class association appears to be well organized, which should help keep the resale value of the boat high. If you live near a Tartan Ten fleet, you should give offshore one-design racing a try. But beware; you might get hooked.

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The Tartan 10 is a 33.14ft fractional sloop designed by S&S and built in fiberglass by Tartan Marine since 1978.

400 units have been built..

The Tartan 10 is a light sailboat which is a high performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a racing boat. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

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TARTAN 10 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of TARTAN 10. Built by Tartan Marine and designed by Sparkman & Stephens, the boat was first built in 1978. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 10.1. Its sail area/displacement ratio 21.95. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Farryman, runs on Diesel.

TARTAN 10 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about TARTAN 10 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the tartan 10.

TARTAN 10 was designed by Sparkman & Stephens.

Who builds TARTAN 10?

TARTAN 10 is built by Tartan Marine.

When was TARTAN 10 first built?

TARTAN 10 was first built in 1978.

How long is TARTAN 10?

TARTAN 10 is 8.23 m in length.

What is mast height on TARTAN 10?

TARTAN 10 has a mast height of 12.27 m.

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About the tartan ten  .

The Tartan Ten is a recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fiberglass, with aluminum spars. It has a 7/8 fractional sloop rig, a raked stem, a reverse transom, an internally mounted spade-type rudder controlled by a tiller and a fixed fin keel. It displaces 7,100 lb (3,221 kg) and carries 3,340 lb (1,515 kg) of ballast. The boat has a draft of 5.83 ft (1.78 m) with the standard keel fitted. The boat is fitted with a Farryman 9 hp (7 kW) diesel engine for docking and maneuvering. The fuel tank holds 12 U.S. gallons (45 L; 10.0 imp gal) and the fresh water tank has a capacity of 19 U.S. gallons (72 L; 16 imp gal). Being intended for racing, the design has a flush deck and very little interior space. There are six berths, including a bow "V"-berth, which has the head underneath and a privacy curtain. The galley is located amidships and includes a manual pump sink and a portable ice box. The chart table doubles as a galley table. The halyards are all internally-mounted, as is the reefing system and the 4:1 outhaul. The mast can be shaped by the shrouds and 4:1 mechanical advantage backstay. There are two jib sheet winches in the cockpit and two halyard winches on the cabin top. The boom vang has a 4:1 mechanical advantage and can also be employed as a preventer, when attached to the rail. A genoa track system was a factory option. Lacking any cabin windows, ventilation is provided by a large deck hatch on the foredeck, which is also used to pass sails below for storage. The design has a PHRF racing average handicap of 126.

United States

7,100 lb (3,221 kg)

5.83 ft (1.78 m)

Sparkman & Stephens

Tartan Marine

33.15 ft (10.10 m)

27.00 ft (8.23 m)

9.25 ft (2.82 m)

Farryman 9 hp (7 kW) diesel engine

3,340 lb (1,515 kg)

internally-mounted spade-type rudder

Rig / Sails

Bermuda rig

276.72 sq ft (25.708 m2)

210.00 sq ft (19.510 m2)

486.72 sq ft (45.218 m2)

35.00 ft (10.67 m)

12.00 ft (3.66 m)

40.25 ft (12.27 m)

13.75 ft (4.19 m)

The Tartan Ten, also called the Tartan 10, is an American sailboat that was designed by Sparkman & Stephens as a one-design racer and was built between 1978 and 1988. The Tartan Ten design was developed into the LS-10 in the early 2000s.

The Tartan Ten is a recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fiberglass, with aluminum spars. It has a 7/8 fractional sloop rig, a raked stem, a reverse transom, an internally mounted spade-type rudder controlled by a tiller and a fixed fin keel. It displaces 7,100 lb (3,221 kg) and carries 3,340 lb (1,515 kg) of ballast. The boat has a draft of 5.83 ft (1.78 m) with the standard keel fitted.

The boat is fitted with a Farryman 9 hp (7 kW) diesel engine for docking and maneuvering. The fuel tank holds 12 U.S. gallons (45 L; 10.0 imp gal) and the fresh water tank has a capacity of 19 U.S. gallons (72 L; 16 imp gal).

Being intended for racing, the design has a flush deck and very little interior space. There are six berths, including a bow "V"-berth, which has the head underneath and a privacy curtain. The galley is located amidships and includes a manual pump sink and a portable ice box. The chart table doubles as a galley table. The halyards are all internally-mounted, as is the reefing system and the 4:1 outhaul. The mast can be shaped by the shrouds and 4:1 mechanical advantage backstay. There are two jib sheet winches in the cockpit and two halyard winches on the cabin top. The boom vang has a 4:1 mechanical advantage and can also be employed as a preventer, when attached to the rail. A genoa track system was a factory option.

Lacking any cabin windows, ventilation is provided by a large deck hatch on the foredeck, which is also used to pass sails below for storage. The design has a PHRF racing average handicap of 126.

Source: Wikipedia . Image Credit: Wikipedia ( CC )

LOA: 33.14 ft LWL: 27.00 ft Beam: 9.25 ft Draft: 5.87 ft Displacement: 6700.00 lbs Ballast: 3340.00 lbs Hull type: Fin w/spade rudder Hull construction: FG/cored deck Rigging type: Fractional Sloop

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Support / One-design deck layouts

T-10 Deck Layout

Having a jib cunningham gives the headsail trimmers great upwind shape control. A double-ended 6:1 purchase is led aft along the toe rail in a cascade system using 40 mm T2 blocks. The T2s get tied to the toe rail so no additional holes are needed. The control line is led aft within easy reach of the trimmer and is cleated in a 498 Micro cam with Fast Release Fairlead.

Having a strong and easily controlled vang is critical given the T-10's Dacron main. The vang is comprised exclusively of 40 mm T2™ blocks and a lightweight, high-strength 20 mm lead ring on the boom. Most boats run a 16:1 for the vang, then do a split control line leading aft by way of 40 mm Carbo T2 and cheek blocks. The 150 cleat is on an X-Treme Angle Fairlead either side of cockpit. The fairlead is key so the vang can be trimmed, and more importantly eased, by any crew in the cockpit.

For both speed and precision trimming, the top T10s use a two-speed mainsheet system. The 4:1/16:1 system gives the main trimmer the line speed needed for rounding marks when the boom must come in fast at the leeward gate. The 16:1 fine tune is used when sailing upwind and every inch of sheet movement matters to the main trimmer when trying to get in the groove. A mix of 40 mm T2 and T2 Loops make up the fine tune while 75 mm Carbo singles carry the load on the boom.

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Class History

The Tartan 10 (also known as T-10) is a one-design boat that is easy to sail and race. The T-10s are easily identified because they have flush deck to facilitate movement during a race. Even though it’s a 40-year-old design, the T-10 remains a popular racing boat, especially in the US Great Lakes.

Links T-10 Class

Boat Specifications

LOA: 33.15 ft (10.10 m) LWL: 27.00 ft (8.23 m) Beam: 9.25 ft (2.82 m) S.A. (reported): 487.00 ft2 (45.24 m2) Draft (max): 5.83 ft (1.78 m) Displacement: 7,100 lb (3,221 kg) Ballast: 3,340 lb (1,515 kg) S.A./Disp.: 21.16 Bal./Disp.: 47.04 Disp./Len.: 161.03

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40mm T2™ Soft-Attach Block

40mm T2™ Loop Soft-Attach Block

57mm Fiddle Block — Swivel

57mm T2™ Soft-Attach Block

57mm T2™ Loop Soft-Attach Block

75mm Block — Swivel

32mm High-Load Windward Sheeting 4500 Car — Stand-Up Toggle

32mm High-Beam Track — 1.5 m

76mm Fiddle Hexaratchet® Block — Cam Cleat

Standard Cam-Matic® Cleat - 150

40mm T2™ Soft-Attach Double Block

Micro Cam-Matic® Kit — Fast Release Fairlead

56mm Padeye — 2 Fasteners

20mm Lead Ring

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Harken US Offices will be closed  Thursday, July 4 . Any orders placed after 11 a.m. Wednesday, July 3, will be processed upon re-opening on Friday, July 5.

1978 Tartan Ten 33' sailboat. Great racing or cruising sailboat. Rigged with upgrades and many sails. Farymann L30 Diesel engine works excellent. Trailer also available.

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I’m very serious on buying a Tartan 10,33''(1980) which is a very good deal, Y haven’t sail it yet, any information of happy or disappointed owners ? Thanks in advance. Jorge  

The Tarten 10 is a great boat, as long as you are ready for it''s limitations. First, the good stuff... They are a very active one design race boat, most NOOD regattas have a division for them. They have a huge main and a small jib, perfect for short handed sailing. The cockpit is absolutley HUGE and is great for taking the entire neighborhood along for a day sail. They are inexpensive, and built to stay that way. Now the bad stuff... ever been below on a T-10? Head room would make a hobbit crouch! The older boats may have been neglected, I have seen some pretty ratty examples. But if you are buying a regularly campaigned racer, it will most probably have been up-dated regularly. That HUGE cockpit makes them totally un-usable for any sort of offshore work, they will not even be allowed in many offshore races. They are a GREAT day sailer, wonderful picnic boat, and a hotly contested one design.  

The Tartan Ten is a neat one-design and Silmaril provieds a nice overview of the type. One comment I offer is to beware the good deal, and even more so, the very good deal. Owners selling a boat know it inside out, and in particular, know what is wrong with it. A buyer supported with an typical survey, is likely to capture only some of the owner''s knowledge, and inevitably bargains with lesser information. I believe that most buyers who think they have a very good deal end up having been hosed. IMHO, pay a fair price for a mint, upgraded model, and you far more likely to get what you pay for. Caveat emptor, especially with boats.  

Practical Sailor has a very detailed write-up on T-10''s in their Used Boat Buyer''s Guide. It would be worth securing a copy. We have a growing number of them showing up on Long Island Sound. People seem to like the daysailing and racing capacites along with the weekend campover option. Could it be the poor man''s J/109? Hmmmm.  

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• Tartan Manuals
• Owner's manual

Tartan Ten Owner's Manual

• page of 28 Go / 28

Table of Contents

• Commissioning
• Before Launching
• Lifting the Hull
• After Launching
• Before Stepping Spar
• Headstay/Spreakers
• Stepping Spar
• Chain Plate Cover Installation
• Traveller Tag Lines
• Backstay Tensioning Device
• Jiffy Reefing Lines
• Jig/Genoa Sheets
• Spinnaker Sheets
• Twing Lines
• Link Plate Installation
• General Information
• Farymann Diesel Engine
• Interior Cushions
• Running Backstays
• Hull to Deck Joint
• Dodger/Fresh Water System
• Bottom Paint
• Fiberglass Interior
• Speedometer Installation
• Plastic Clam Cleats
• Metal Cradle
• Electrical System
• Draft Marks
• Exhaust System
• Keel/Hull Joint
• Lighting Protection
• Upwind Sailing Chart
• Maintenance Schedule
• Exterior Teak
• Interior Teak
• Sails, Sheets and Lines
• Spars and Standing Rigging
• Engine and Fuel System
• Running Rigging List
• Spinnaker Gear

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Every Tartan sailboat model has been engineered to provide every Tartan owner with the high-quality performance, hand-crafted interiors, and innovative design that are unique to Tartan Yachts. Whether you intend to set sail with family or partake in a race, you will experience the unparalleled strength and control that has come to define the Tartan brand.

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• Sailboat Guide

1981 Tartan T-10

• Description

Seller's Description

Tartan 10 sailboat designed by Sparkman and Stephens is a fast fun sailboat with a large cockpit. Great racer, day sailer or weekender. PHRF rating is 126.

Equipment: Yanmar diesel 2GM 20F 3 main sails ( one is 1 year old) 3 jibs 1 spinnaker Harken roller furling 2 batteries Autohelm Steel cradle 2 compasses

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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