The Ranger 22 is a 22.5ft fractional sloop designed by Gary Mull and built in fiberglass by Ranger Yachts (USA) since 1977.

The Ranger 22 is a light sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

Ranger 22 sailboat under sail

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RANGER 22 Detailed Review

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If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of RANGER 22. Built by Ranger Yachts (USA) and designed by Gary Mull, the boat was first built in 1977. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 6.86. Its sail area/displacement ratio 19.63. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

RANGER 22 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about RANGER 22 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the ranger 22.

RANGER 22 was designed by Gary Mull.

Who builds RANGER 22?

RANGER 22 is built by Ranger Yachts (USA).

When was RANGER 22 first built?

RANGER 22 was first built in 1977.

How long is RANGER 22?

RANGER 22 is 5.36 m in length.

What is mast height on RANGER 22?

RANGER 22 has a mast height of 7.92 m.

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Ranger 22 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Ranger 22 - Mainsail Covers

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Ranger 22 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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Ranger 22 - Restoration Need Help!

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Hi! I just joined this forum i hope some of you could help me with some information. I recently acquired a 1978 Ranger 22 Sailboat. It is mostly there but it is still a restoration jobs. I'm having a hard time finding any information to help me on my efforts. Here are some of the questions I have, I'm hoping doe of you out there may have the answers or could direct me to someone who knows. So here it goes: 1. The previous owner of the boat ran over the back stay with a lawn mower. This boat has a shorter back stay that ends in a block & tackle setup to adjust the angle of the mast. I need to know how long is the Backstay for this boat so I can replace it with the appropriate length. 2. The windows were removed, but I have the original. Do these just get attached to the fiberglass directly? If so what should I be using to do this? There are no frames on this windows. 3. The keel iix fine. The previous owner had the stainless steel bracket that is mounted on the keel to lift the keel. Is this something you leave permanently attached on you only use it for lifting the keel? I have seen pictures of of the boat being lifted with a single steel cable attached to the keel. Not sure I feel comfortable with that. Any thoughts on this? 4. Can the hull on this support support the weight of the keel suspended out of the water? I need to do some fiberglass repairs to the keel and I'm truing to figure out whether I can just raise the whole thing or I need to support the keel at all times. Any guidance on this? 5. Does anybody have pictures of what the inside of the keel section should look like? 6. If the bolts have been removed or were missing, while sitting on a trailer for 2 years. Should I drop the keel and reset it? Or should I just tighten the screws and call it a day? Any advise will be appreciated. Well that is all I have for now. Thank you all for any information you care to share. Jose  

Hi: I bought a Ranger 22 near hospice in 2008, and am still doing things yearly to bring it back. First about your backstay. Mine is shortened because I race Reepicheep (feisty mouse of Narnia), and like to be able to flatten my main going to weather in heavier air. My backstay has a 6:1 ratio. I suggest, whether you race or not, the adjuster makes sense for mainsail shape, therefore control in heavier air. If you are going to do keel work you can do it all with exception of the very bottom when you are hauled and on poppets. The seriously accommodating yard I am in raised me up for two days to do the last bit of work on the keel bottom (looked like a relief map of the Himalayas in miniature). This required epoxy work before bottom painting. Also, FYI, I spent 20 hours last fall sanding down the bottom to the gelcoat in order to apply four barrier coats (Interprotect 2000). This barrier coat will be good for 20 plus years, so won't have to sweat that one in my lifetime (pushing 78). A word of caution. If you do have to re-barrier coat your Ranger bottom, it is CRITICAL to make sure and apply the first coat of bottom paint when the last barrier coat is still tacky, or else the bottom coat won't bind to the barrier coat. There has been a fair amount of leaking through the deck fittings, stanchions, cleats, sail control hardware, etc. If you are going to take them off, do it in the fall when you haul, cover your boat and let the balsa core dry through the winter. I've been told by riggers to use "life caulk" rather than a silicone sealant because the latter doesn't like stainless steel a lot. I have used "flex shot" for deck fittings, drawing a bead around all the fitting bases. So far, it has worked well, especially around the chain plates. I've also used Loctite "blue" on all fittings that have a washer and nut on one end. This is most important on fittings that move, like the traveler and main sheet systems. Had the main sheet pop[ off when racing one evening a couple of years back. Loctite blue did the trick nicely. A five HP outboard is more than ample to drive your boat. In fact you'll be wasting horsepower, but having an engine that has a five gallon tank attached is nice if you are going a fair distance. I've sailed to Martha's Vineyard from Westbrook, CT five times now, and the engine (Tohatsu) performed very well. Don't forget to add enzyme treatment to your ethanol gas. Four stroke engines do not like ethanol. Hope this isn't TMI. Good luck, good sailing.  

Jose: I don't have a bracket on the keel for lifting the post, Have an O ring keel bolt. Works just fine. I torques the keel bolts with a socket wrench this spring, and one bolt came off. It was a crappy stainless bolt at best. Reepicheep is in the water and doing just fine. I'll address this issue when hauled this fall by either boring into what's left and inserting a smaller keel bot, or by dropping the keel and redoing with an original sized keel bolt. About your windows...all you need is a good sealant, and pop them back in. There are no frames for the windows on my boat. Also suggest you don't do fiberglass repairs on your keel. Epoxy is better. I used Marine Tex to fill in dings and dents before putting one barrier coat on then painting while tacky. The pros at the yard where Reepicheep lives told me to do two coats of bottom paint, and a third coat to about a foot and a half below the waterline. FYI, my yard requires the use of EPaint. As a racer, I have no complaints about EPaint. Petit also makes a good environmentally sound bottom paint (same formulation as EPaint).  

jtorres2007 said: Hi! I just joined this forum i hope some of you could help me with some information. I recently acquired a 1978 Ranger 22 Sailboat. It is mostly there but it is still a restoration jobs. I'm having a hard time finding any information to help me on my efforts. Here are some of the questions I have, I'm hoping doe of you out there may have the answers or could direct me to someone who knows. So here it goes: 1. The previous owner of the boat ran over the back stay with a lawn mower. This boat has a shorter back stay that ends in a block & tackle setup to adjust the angle of the mast. I need to know how long is the Backstay for this boat so I can replace it with the appropriate length. Take note the backstay can come down to the handrail in length to allow for the block and tackle to have room to work. A 4 to one setup with Dyneema 1/4 inch line is best. 2. The windows were removed, but I have the original. Do these just get attached to the fiberglass directly? If so what should I be using to do this? There are no frames on this windows. I just re siliconed mine in as that was what they used originally 3. The keel iix fine. The previous owner had the stainless steel bracket that is mounted on the keel to lift the keel. Is this something you leave permanently attached on you only use it for lifting the keel? I have seen pictures of of the boat being lifted with a single steel cable attached to the keel. Not sure I feel comfortable with that. Any thoughts on this? The keel is fine, the boat was engineered to hang 900# hanging off of it. The torque to the bolts is 45#. Leave the lifting tab on the keel. 4. Can the hull on this support support the weight of the keel suspended out of the water? I need to do some fiberglass repairs to the keel and I'm truing to figure out whether I can just raise the whole thing or I need to support the keel at all times. Any guidance on this? use a fairing compound after you clean the keel good and apply a layer of fiberglass resin, roll an brush. Seal it good, then barrier coat an bottom paint. Keel only, hull sand fill an barrier coat an bottom paint. 5. Does anybody have pictures of what the inside of the keel section should look like? The stainless steel tube has straps weldede to it an the interior is filled with foam and the two glass halves are put over and glassed in place. keep it sealed and faired. It might be a good idea to drop the rudder an clean out the drain as leaves can build up. Also use heavy bearing grease on the shaft as you put it back in. 6. If the bolts have been removed or were missing, while sitting on a trailer for 2 years. Should I drop the keel and reset it? Or should I just tighten the screws and call it a day? Any advise will be appreciated. Don't drop the keel unless you have to make a big repair like replacing a J bolt. This is a big job, get help. Join Ranger22 group at yahoo.com Parts are still arround. I am rebuilding my second Ranger right now so any questions can be PMed to me I can help. Go in the albums and see both of my boats. have a good one. Click to expand...
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Ranger Yachts

Started by Jensen Marine founder Jack Jensen, (builder of Cal boats).in order to capture more of the east coast USA market. Jensen Marine also had an exclusive design contract with William Lapworth. So a separate company was formed with the design contract given to Gary Mull. First manufactured in Cosa Mesa California, the operation was moved to Florida in 1981. Both companies were purchased by Bangor Punta in 1973 (later acquired by Lear Seigler). In an attempt to consolidate the sailboat lineup, the company management decided that the Ranger line was no longer needed, canceled Mulls contract, and later had most of the Ranger molds destroyed.

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12 sailboats built by Ranger Yachts

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Surely one of the most popular and versatile midget racers of the modern era, this Mull design has devotees all over the land. You can get them cheap, and cruise 'em, too.

ranger 22 sailboat data

Designed by Californian Gary Mull in 1971, the Ranger 23 was influenced by the Junior Offshore Group (JOG), a forerunner of the Midget Ocean Racing Club (MORC, which evolved to MORA, which is now nearly extinct as an association). MORA rules provided designers, builders, and performance-oriented sailors with a venue in which many of the most mannerly, small-sized performance cruisers of the time could compete on a near-level playing field.

At the time, Jack Jensen, founder of Jensen Marine, was enjoying great success building Cal boats and making race history with the Cal 40 and Cal 27. However, to appeal to East Coast buyers, he formed Ranger Yachts (which actually were built in Costa Mesa, California), and commissioned Mull to design the new lines. Mull’s star was on the rise at the time, partially because of the success of the Santana 22, which he considered one of his most successful, and favorite, creations.

Ranger 23

Cal and Ranger were eventually sold to Bangor Punta in 1973, and production of Cal boats was moved to Florida. A victim of a downturn in the industry, the Ranger line folded in 1978. In 1983, Bangor Punta sold both companies to Lear Siegler, shortly before their complete demise.

The company built six Rangers in sizes ranging from 22 to 37 feet.

The R-23 had an excellent production run, with 739 hulls built between 1971 and 1978. The boat is a sporty looker whose design is as appealing 30 years after her launch as when introduced. She carries a high-aspect sailplan and presents a fine bow entry and racy lines, especially compared to her contemporaries. Viewed from abeam, she appears proportionately shapely with a smoothly rising sheer, visually appealing cabintop, and long, narrow ports that hint at performance. Though not designed to meet a measurement rule, her lines were influenced by the CCA and, eventually, IOR racing rules.

In a lengthy epistle evaluating the boat, penned for the R-23 owners association shortly prior to death in 1993, Mull described the design as being “a little ship capable of sailing anywhere in the world safely, and swiftly.”

Her sailplan was the subject of many changes. Of the mast, Mull wrote, “In those days I was able to design each of the masts for Rangers for specific designs rather than having to pick from stock extrusions.” The same held true for chainplates, spreader roots, and mastheads.

Though offered with a rig designed to sail in the prevailing 15-20 knot Pacific northwesterlies, a tall rig was offered for sailors in light-air regions. In its standard configuration, the mast stood 27.7 feet above the deck. The tall rig added two feet to its height, with a corresponding increase in sail area.

Eventually, “when the IOR was introduced, we produced a revised plan with a shorter mainsail foot to qualify for the Quarter Ton class.” The boat sailed with some success in this class.

The single set of spreaders on the beefy, deck-stepped masthead rig are supported by 3/16″, 1×19 stainless steel headstay and upper shroud, and 5/32″, 1×19 backstay and lower shroud. A typical comment among long-time owners is that the rig is overbuilt; no failures have been reported by owners responding to a PS survey.

The deck-stepped mast “was a consequence of wanting a clear access through the interior.” While accomplishing that objective, the design compromises the amount of compression an owner can develop on stays while attempting to improve sail shape.

Underwater appendages are “standard trapezoidal profiles with standard NACA sections.” The keel carries 1,500 pounds of lead ballast. The spade rudder is mounted on a stainless steel rudder post. Owners describe the boat as providing excellent windward performance, and typically carry a 150% genoa with a full mainsail until breezes exceed 15-18 knots.

“On deck our concept is most noticeable because it has a proper cockpit with coamings, seats, and all. We were designing a boat for the occasional day or weekend sail, and a boat that could be taken to sea for extended periods.” She’ll seat four in relative comfort, even with a tiller occupying the center of the footwell.

“We didn’t feel compelled to offer standing headroom as we were fairly certain that the owners were smart enough to sleep lying down and would probably have the good sense to sit down when they went below for a meal. We also assumed that people making long passages in a boat of this size would probably be pretty good friends, and sited the head where it would be convenient and stable, though not so private as might be appropriate for a larger boat.”

There’s 5’6″ of headroom in the cabin, and 6’6″ settees that convert to berths. Creature comforts include a tilt-away dinette table, and a 25-pound icebox that doubles as a companionway step.

The galley, located at the junction of the saloon and V-berth, is, of course, pretty minimal. It consists of a sink located to port, optional two-burner alcohol stove to starboard, two drawers, and a storage cubby. (Note that in the accommodations drawing below, from the original sales brochure, the stove and sink appear on sides opposite where they ended up.)

Again in Mull’s words, “We didn’t even have, let alone feel compelled to offer, three- and four-burner gas stoves with oven and lighting system. We figured that one-dish meals and a pot of coffee made much more sense for a boat of this size.”

That’s certainly true—the set-up will allow good sleeping and just enough civilized eating during a long coastal passage to keep the crew content (as long as they’re within a day or two of a sheltered anchorage, a shower, and a meal ashore).

Ranger 23

Space in the bow is occupied by a V-berth that provides a 6’2″ sleeping area and two dressers. The toilet was originally a self-contained “Handihead” with four-gallon capacity and waste discharge. One owner who replaced the original told us that the space is large enough for a more modern appliance.

Mull’s concept of light camping accommodations stands in contrast to Bill Crealock’s vision for the Dana 24 (PS December 2001), a beamier, significantly heavier, more crewfriendly yacht with an enclosed head that Crealock envisioned as carrying a crew of two around the world in “safety and comfort.”

The idea of extended cruising in a boat less than about 30 feet isn’t appealing to some sailors, but it can be great fun, as long as everyone gets along and there are good routines in place for how to move around the boat and do things in harmony.

This Ranger is spacious enough for sailing and sleeping with, say, a couple and two kids on short cruises, notwithstanding the lack of privacy.

Construction The hull and deck were designed using what were then considered state-of-the-art methods. Mull said that his initial agreement with Jensen included wide latitude in stipulating construction materials and methods, and that Ranger Yachts would provide quality production. In this case, the West Coast designer-builder combination works to the advantage of owners, since boats were expected to withstand higher stresses encountered on the Pacific near San Francisco than those in Southern California or the Chesapeake, for instance.

Interestingly, the most common shortcomings in the construction of the boats are caused by adhesives used to bond major components. Though the best available at the time, they pale by today’s standards.

Built during the adolescence of the fiberglass era, the hull and deck were constructed using Lloyd’s Provisional Rules for GRP vessels. Lloyd’s formula specified use of an all chopped mat structure; Ranger laid up alternating layers of mat and woven roving in the hull.

The deck was a sandwiched balsa core laminate employing a honeycomb method developed by Hexcel Corporation. At the time, Hexcel was cutting a wide swath in the Alpine skiing community with a similar laminate that produced lighter, stronger skis. Today’s boats are constructed with lighter, unidirectional fabrics; nonetheless, Ranger’s methods produced sturdy sections. Bulkheads were bonded to the hull, and the interior is a fiberglass pan.

An annual inspection by owners or thorough survey by potential buyers should be made of the mast step, hull-deck joint, keel bolts, and chainplates, as Mull noted.

A by-product of the attempt to produce creature comforts is that the mast step “is probably the biggest source of grief,” Mull wrote. That’s not a desirable trait in a boat advertised as being fit for offshore work, though not a fatal flaw.

The mast step is a 6061-T6 aluminum fabrication with fasteners connected to the deck structure intended to be bedded in flexible waterproof bedding compound. “Unfortunately,” said Mull, “the bedding compound on many boats has become dry and brittle and water can find its way through the bolt hole in the deck core.” A by-product might be soggy balsa or, in the worst case, rot.

Ranger 23

In extreme cases, the fix involves removing the mast step columns and affected areas and replacing deck core with a new beam and laminate. Though more than a minor inconvenience, the problem would not prevent us from considering the purchase of a boat with this ailment.

Failures of adhesives and the large number of bolts installed through the toerail at the hull-deck joint also may produce leaks. In a worst-case scenario it would be necessary to remove the toerail and stanchions, elevate the deck from the hull, remove the old adhesive, and replace it with today’s materials. No small chore.

Similar problems may occur with chainplates that have been neglected for extended periods of time. Many owners report the need to rebed chainplates every couple of years. Not surprisingly, that predicament is still encountered by the owners of many newer, production boats.

Finally, leaks through ballast bolts have been reported by some owners. Mull’s recommended fix was a re-bed of keel and bolts with an elastic bedding compound to alleviate stress created by movement at the hull-keel joint.

Performance Since her deck layout is as simple as the boat is small, she’s easy to sail single- or doublehanded, and race with a crew of three.

Standard gear included external mainsail and jib halyards, Barient winches on the mast and in the cockpit, and Schaefer sail track, blocks, and cleats. Retrofitting additional halyards is as simple as adding external blocks at the masthead or, for the more sophisticated, adding sheaves and running halyards inside the mast. Safety gear includes bow and stern pulpits and 24″ tall stanchions fitted with a single lifeline.

A split backstay and racing package with spinnaker gear were the only options offered initially.

Computer-generated polar predictions indicate that the 23 stacks up well against similar-sized boats through a range of wind angles and wind speeds. As for top-end jets, as Mull said, “There’s no such thing as maximum hull speed,” except a theoretical rule of thumb that may apply to powering on flat water. In that environment, he predicted a boatspeed of 5.5 knots. In 10 knots of breeze under the same conditions, speed would fall in a range of 4 to 6 knots. Once the boat gets out in more wind or bigger waves, the hull begins to plane and surf; at that point the boat can cover a lot of distance between breakfast and suppertime—and it makes the racing exciting.

Conclusions It would be nice to see Ranger 23s organized again into one-design fleets all over the land, but in any case it’s good to know they’re out there racing PHRF, and that, like greyhounds retired from the rabbit-chase at the racetrack, they do well as family friends.

The R-23 can be considered a legitimate cruising boat, within the obvious physical limits of a short waterline and small quarters. To expand a bit on what was said earlier, small, simple boats like this can be ideal “express campers” for young families and couples. They can be bought for little money, fixed up as much or as little as wallet and skills allow, and don’t cost much to keep around.

Despite the Ranger’s age, it benefits from being designed on the cusp of an era when traditional, full-keeled cruisers were being replaced by sloops with more modern underbodies and appendages that produced significant improvements in performance. The hull and major structures are sound, aside from the aforementioned problems associated with adhesives that have deteriorated.

These Rangers were built before the day when vinylester resin was used in hull laminates, and some owners report the presence of dime-sized blisters that require inspection or repair. The boat does not have a reputation of suffering from chronic deficiencies that demand total bottom replacements.

Given a thorough survey, we think the R-23 would be a great candidate for a couple or family who might be new to the sport, or who are stepping up from a dinghy or daysailor. The boat was offered for $5,450 in 1971. Expect to pay $3,500 up to as much as $10,000 for a used boat, depending upon condition—if you can find one.

Arvel Gentry, the Boeing engineer who rocked the world of sailing decades ago with the facts about foils, lift, fluid circulation, and what makes sailboats go, maintains the Ranger 23 Owners and Class Association at www.ranger23.com.

Also With This Article Click here to view “Used Boat Price HistoryRanger 23 (1972 model).” Click here to view “Owner’s Comments.”

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COMMENTS

  1. RANGER 22

    A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.

  2. Ranger 22

    The Ranger 22 is a 22.5ft fractional sloop designed by Gary Mull and built in fiberglass by Ranger Yachts (USA) since 1977. The Ranger 22 is a light sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

  3. Ranger 22

    Ranger 22: Boat; Crew: Two: Draft: 4.35 feet (1.30 m) Hull; Type: Fractional rigged sloop: Construction: Fiberglass: LOA: 22.50 feet (6.86 m) LWL: 17.58 feet (5.36 m) ... The Ranger 22 is an American trailerable sailboat designed by Gary Mull as an International Offshore Rule Mini Ton class racer and first built in 1977.

  4. Ranger 22

    Ranger 22 is a 22′ 6″ / 6.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Gary Mull and built by Ranger Yachts and Mariner Construções Náuticas Ltd. starting in 1977. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ D: Displacement of ...

  5. RANGER 22: Reviews, Specifications, Built, Engine

    If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of RANGER 22. Built by Ranger Yachts (USA) and designed by Gary Mull, the boat was first built in 1977. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 6.86. Its sail area/displacement ratio 19.63.

  6. Ranger 22 Sailboat Photo Gallery

    Ranger 22 Sailboat pictures, a collection of Ranger 22 sailboats with specifications and photos.

  7. Ranger 22

    Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Ranger 22 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more. Sailboat Data directory for over 8,000 sailboat designs and manufacturers. Direct access to halyards lengths, recommended sail areas, mainsail cover styles, standing rigging fittings, and lots ...

  8. Ranger 22

    The Ranger 22 is an American trailerable sailboat designed by Gary Mull as an International Offshore Rule Mini Ton class racer and first built in 1977. Introduction Ranger 22 Production

  9. RANGER 22

    RANGER 22. Category: Sailboat. Boat Details. Designer: Builders: Associations: Gary Mull: Jensen Marine/Ranger Yachts (USA) Mariner Construções Náuticas Ltd. (BRA)? # Built: ... Boat loans are the same as car loans, except that they usually require a bigger down payment. However, subprime boat loans are available. It's important …

  10. Ranger 22 Yacht Racing Machine

    The Ranger 22 is a highly specialized machine. She is, of course, a rugged, handsome, elegantly finished boat. But the most important thing about her is the way she sails. Ranger Information Center. Costa Mesa, CA 92626. Please send me complete information on the Ranger 22. Ranger Yachts.

  11. Review of Ranger 22

    The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Ranger 22 is about 85 kg/cm, alternatively 480 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 85 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 480 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

  12. Ranger 22

    J. jtorres2007 Discussion starter. 3 posts · Joined 2014. #1 · Apr 22, 2014. Hi! I just joined this forum i hope some of you could help me with some information. I recently acquired a 1978 Ranger 22 Sailboat. It is mostly there but it is still a restoration jobs. I'm having a hard time finding any information to help me on my efforts.

  13. Ranger Yachts

    Ranger 22. 1977 • 22 ... Palm Coast, FL, US 1972 Ranger 26 Sailboat $15,000 USD. United States 1972 Ranger Yachts Ranger 33 $35,000 USD. Port Henry, NY, US 1973 Ranger 33 $10,250 USD. Have a sailboat to sell? List it for free and it will show up here. Advertisement. Great choice! ...

  14. Ranger 22 Sail Data

    Complete Sail Plan Data for the Ranger 22 Sail Data. Sailrite offers free rig and sail dimensions with featured products and canvas kits that fit the boat. ... Sailboat Data ; Ranger 22 Sail Data ; Ranger 22 Sail Data. Pinit. SKU: X-SD-5209 . Quantity discounts available . Quantity Price; Quantity -+ Add to Cart . You may also like. Sheet Bag ...

  15. Ranger Yachts

    Ranger Yachts was an American boat builder founded by Jack Jensen. The company specialized in the design and manufacture of sailboats for the North American market. ... Ranger 22; Ranger 23; Ranger 26; Ranger 26-2; Ranger 28; Ranger 29; Ranger 30; Ranger 32; Ranger 33; Ranger 37; See also. Cal Yachts (aka Cal Boats aka Jensen Marine)

  16. Sailboat Listings sailboats for sale by owner

    Sailboat Added 22-Mar-2022 More Details: Gary Mull Ranger 22: Length: 22'6' Beam: 7'10' Draft: 4' 3' Year: 1980: Type: racercruiser: Hull: fiberglass monohull: ... 26.3' Ranger 26 Sailboat Palm Coast, Florida Asking $15,000. 18' Carpinteria Boat Works Lion 550 Ventura, California Asking $19,900. 46' Bleu Marine Lasporte 46 Toronto

  17. Ranger 23

    The R-23 had an excellent production run, with 739 hulls built between 1971 and 1978. The boat is a sporty looker whose design is as appealing 30 years after her launch as when introduced. She carries a high-aspect sailplan and presents a fine bow entry and racy lines, especially compared to her contemporaries.

  18. RANGER 33

    240.63 ft² / 22.36 m² ... 43.76 ft / 13.34 m: Sailboat Links. Designers: Gary Mull: Builders: Ranger Yachts (USA) Download Boat Record: Notes. On later boats, wheel steering became standard and a Universal diesel was offered as an option. ... We use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. We do this to improve ...