junk rig sailboat for sale

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junk rig for sale

Custom Boats 28 Junk Rig

Custom boats 28 junk rig.

- Stock #Classic American Small Sailing Craft. She's a Swampscott dory with a fully battered balanced lug schooner rig , otherwise recognized as...

For Sale: 1982 One Off Aluminium Junk Rig

Aluminium junk rig.

This boat certainly has the wow factor. She has had a professional paint job and looks a million dollars. The project has not been completed as the owner had decided...

Custom Built 28 Junk Rig

Custom built 28 junk rig.

28 Junk Rig (sailboat) for sale

- Stock #354221 - Classic American Small Sailing Craft. She's a Swampscott dory with a fully battered balanced lug schooner rig , otherwise recognized...

One Off Aluminium Junk Rig

One Off Aluminium Junk Rig for sale | 17.20m | 1982 | 1x diesel 115hp | Aluminium Construction | Long keel underwater profile |...

Island Sun 42 Schooner ( Junk Rigged ) (1980) for sale

Island sun junk rigged.

English This Ferro-Cement Island Sun 42 is set up to be a liveaboard but would be more than capable of taking to the seas and going on a journey. She is a twin masted...

For Sale: 1980 Island Sun 42 Schooner ( Junk Rigged )

42 schooner junk rigged.

This Ferro-Cement Island Sun 42 is set up to be a liveaboard but would be more than capable of taking to the seas and going on a journey. She is a twin masted schooner...

1977, Custom Built, 28 Junk Rig

Stock #354221 - Classic American Small Sailing Craft. She's a Swampscott dory with a fully battered balanced lug schooner rig , otherwise recognized...

David Thomas custom Junk - rigged ketch

Tystie was built in the UK and has sailed half the world including South Africa, Panama Canal, Australia and Alaska. She can deliver 150nm+ runs. Junk - rigged ...

1977 Custom Built 28 Junk Rig in Stehekin, WA

Sails are decent shape, lots of life yet, built by one of the top sail makers in Port Townsend. She's had regular oil and paint maintenance, in very good shape overall....

2007 Correct Craft Super Air Nautique 220 in Mckinney, TX

Seller reports that the boat is structurally and mechanically sound. The engine fires right up and seller has had regular maintenance on the boat. The exterior...

Eliminator Daytona 25

Island Sun 42 Schooner ( Junk Rigged ) Ferro Cement Yacht

Ferro cement marine services.

Island Sun 42 Schooner ( Junk Rigged ) Ferro Cement Yacht for sale | 12.80m | 1980 | 1x diesel 50hp | Ferro cement Construction |...

1979 Sunbird Marine 32 Chinese Junk Rig Schooner sailboat for sale in Florida

Sunbird marine 32 chinese junk rig schooner.

1979 Sunbird 32 Chinese Junk Schooner for sale Proven world cruiser with 3 Atlantic crossings under her belt , as well as a few books written about...

2017 Home Made Chinese Junk sailboat for sale in Alabama

Home made chinese junk.

General Description Thomas E. Colvin, NA Design 48' Ocean Cruising Auxiliary 3-masted Junk . She has a 5' Draft, and dual integral keel cooling....

1950 Custom Chinese Junk sailboat for sale in Mississippi

Authentic Chinese Junk . Built in Hong Kong and brought to the States in the Vietnam War era. Solid wood throughout. Yackel below waterline and all...

Bruce Roberts Tom Thumb

Bruce roberts tom thumb.

Junk Rigged

1990 Colvin Gazelle Oasis | 42ft

Colvin gazelle.

Oasis is a 1992 42-foot steel-hull Tom Colvin Gazelle junk - rigged schooner waiting for a new owner to give her the TLC that she...

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• Building a Skerry
• The Sprit Sail is Amazing
• My Sailmaking Experiments

There has been a lot of interest about Junk Rigs lately with the success of several cruising yachts. This article is a result of the reading and notes I took while figuring out why the junk rig was so well liked by people who had tried it.

Junk Rig advantages and disadvantages

Junk is a boat, junk rig is, well, the traditional rig of a junk boat.

A Junk BOAT, is a classic Chinese sailing vessel of ancient origin, still widely found in many Asian countries. Junk can have up to five usually unstayed masts. The square - ish sails can be made of a number of materials. Old sacking, woven reeds, various cloths and modern fabrics have all been used. There are a number of full width battens which stiffen the sail. The design of the sail allows it to be fully or partially deployed. Because of the full length battens the sail can be easily and gradually dropped into lazy jacks.

Junks (boat) have no keel but have a large rudder which acts as a keel.

A junk RIG is the sail and all the lines and hardware that controls the sail.

Photo above is a private unpublished photo taken in Hong Kong around 1969 by Nick Boothby.

What is a junk rig and what are all the lines controlling it?

A junk sail/rig is a balanced lug sail more or less rectangular in shape. The rectangular shape sometimes is modified so that the top sections are fan shaped. It has a yard or top batten and a boom or lowest batten. Unlike the western lug sail, it is separated into several horizontal sections by a series of fairly rigid battens. These battens are almost always laced to the outside rather than positioned in pockets.

The battens have several key functions.

They distribute the loads and stresses throughout the sail reducing stress on any one point. This means that a quite large junk sails can be made from materials that would fail quickly in standard lug sails.

The Battens of the Junk Rig provide points of attachment and control for lines that attach to the leach, (trailing end) of the sail and allow for quite fine adjustment of the sail. Have a look at the photos below that clearly shows the lines leading to the stern of the boat on the left. These lines, which are connected, can control the sail with only one line. This is accomplished by a complex looking system of blocks. I say complex looking because once they are set up, then adjustments are very simply made.

Photo is scan of old print by Lai Afong [CC BY-SA 4.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

The battens also provide points of attachment for one or more downhauls. Simple sails have fewer but it is possible to have as many downhauls as there are battens. These downhauls simplify reefing. There is no need to tie up the reefed parts of the sail. The halyard is loosened, the sail lowers because of the weight of the battens, or is pulled down, the new downhaul from a higher batten is fastened and the halyard is made tight. Simple and quick sail reduction on all points of sail.

Since each batten is fastened to the mast using lines or parrel beads, the sail is better controlled.

Lazy Jacks take up the reefed or lowered sail

All Junk rigs have robust lazy jacks that controls the sail as it is lowered and keep the reefed sections out of the way. Unlike the western balanced lug, the top of the rig is controlled as it is lowered and falls into the lazyjacks without much argument.

The Junk Rig has a halyard

The halyard used on a junk rig has to be quite a sturdy affair and often has blocks and winches to raising the quite heavy sail.

What are the advantages of Balanced Lugs including Junk Rigs?

The balanced lug sail has long been used by pleasure boaters and the reasons are compelling.

• As in all square sails, you can put up a lot of sail on a shorter often unstayed mast.
• Because part of the sail lives in front of the mast, it is light to sheet and control.
• For the same reason, jibing is less of an issue than in sails that are all behind the mast. The feared accidental jibe is not as dangerous as in other rigs.
• It is simple to keep a good shape on all points of sail.
• Reefing is quite simple and can be done while underway.
• Even while heavily reefed, the sail still remains balanced. The centre of effort hardly shifts.
• It is a relatively simple sail to make.
• It is docile easily controlled sail.

There are a few disadvantages in the use of Balanced Lugs

• Unless lazy jacks are set up it can ungainly to lower. Since the sail is not laced on its sides it can flop around and billow.
• The yard end pivots down from the mast and points downward as it is lowered or the sail is reduced. It does not necessarily fall into the lazyjack easily and often has to be grabbed and controlled as it sways and bounces around.
• Sail can twist at the top.
• The luff in front of the mast, has to be quite strong because it is subject to a lot of tension from the yard which acts as a lever balanced at the mast.
• Like many of the other square sails, there is a good tack when the mast is on the front of the sail, and a bad tack where the mast is behind the sail and distorts the shape. In practice this is not as important as it would first seem to be. In my Sprit sail, the "bad" tack is sometimes faster. To eliminate this disadvantage, if the boat has more than one mast, the sails are attached in an opposite side so that there is always one sail with a good tack.

Most of these disadvantages have been eliminated in the junk rig.

What advantages and disadvantages does a Junk Rig Bring.

Upside of junk rigs.

The junk rig benefits from all the Western Balanced Lug advantages and a few of its own.

• Because of the large number of battens the sail is divided in many sections which can be individually controlled. Superior control is the greatest advantage of the Junk Rig.
• There is no need to round up and put the nose in the wind to lower sails. Because of the battens there is no fluttering of edges either.
• Each small sections is attached to the mast and acts as a small sail. This reduces the stress on any one spot of the sail. Any stress is much better distributed than in the Bermudian rig. Many junk boats had sails made of woven reeds or quite light fabric. This also means that if a section is damaged this is not propagated to the rest of the sail. Any old picture of junks will show sails often with a considerable number of holes and repairs.
• Junk rigs have lines from the end of each of the battens and this provides very accurate control on how the sail sets. Unwanted twist is practically eliminated. Twist is sometimes encouraged as a means of adding shape to a flat sail.
• The weight of the battens allow the sail to be reefed or taken down quite easily from all points of sail. The weight tensioning the sail while it is lowered. This stops the yard and other battens from pointing downwards and flopping around. In some rigs there are even downhauls from all the battens.
• The lazyjacks or topping lifts control the sail as it goes down and the sail folds itself safely without much human intervention. Because of all the control lines at the end of the battens, the top yard is controlled and stays in position ready to fall quietly into the lazy jack as do the other battens. Have a look at the end of this Youtube video where the sail is being lowered.

Downside of Junk Rig

All this control and safety comes at some cost.

• Extra cost is one of these. There are a lot of details on a junk rig.
• The rig is heavier than most. This means that even a relatively small sail is quite heavy to raise.
• With all the lines and blocks, it is more complex to set up. Once set up though it is no more complicated to get going than a bermudian rig.
• A traditional junk sail is flat and not as efficient as a shaped sail. Moving to winward in light wind is not easy. BUT if the sail has a fanned top rather than squarer, the top part of the sail can be allowed to twists and create some camber improving performance.
• Making a junk sail can be quite time consuming because there are a lot of little bits and bobs to deal with. There are attachment for the control lines at the back of the battens, for the lazy jacks, for the parrel beads or whatever method is used to tie the boom/battens to the mast, lots of chafing gear, lacing for the battens, attachment for the downhauls (sometimes placed on each batten). There are lots of blocks, grommets, roping and lines. All this adds up.
• Anywhere on a boat where there is a line, there is a chance it will get fouled up.

Modern junk Rigs have improved performance.

Modern junk rigs have been modified from traditional shapes to improve the set of the sail and provide additional lift.

Traditionally, the sail is cut flat. There are no curves or difference in seams (broadseaming) that add shape to the panels.

By modifying the shape of each little rectangle so that there some curve to the cut rather than just a straight line where the battens attach, the individual panels can be made to have shape and improve performance

Wikipedia article on the Princess Taiping which sailed from Taiwan to San Francisco and almost all the way back, she collided with another ship just a few kilometres from Taiwan. This voyage nevertheless demonstrated the seaworthiness of the junk boats and rigs.

More Junk Rig Links and Information

Because of the stellar qualities and success of the junk rig, many sailors are trying them out.

One of the complaints that recur about junk rig boats is how rare and difficult to buy they are. The junk rig association has a for sale section as well as many links and a forum

• Annie Hill sailed Badger and wrote "Voyaging on a Small Income." Her ship was designed by Jay Benford
• Roger Tailor has crised extensively in his Mingmings. Here is a youtube video of MingmingII
• Joshua Slocum sailed Liberdada and wrote the "voyage of Liberdade"

• Kasten Marine has a nice article Good diagram of how the front lines come together to a single line.
• Tom Colvin's Gazelle is the stuff of legends.
• Cruising Ashiki is an interesting blog Lower in the page there is some discussion and photos of panels with cambered sail vs completely flat junk sail.
• The must read book is Practical Junk Rig Design Aerodynamics and handling by Hasler and McLeod.
• Good Tutorial on Junk rig in the Cheap Pages.com

I try to be accurate and check my information, but mistakes happen.

Small Print

This information is for general knowledge and entertainment. I was interested and wrote up my notes for anyone who was also looking at junk sails. I'm not an expert, just a curious george.

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Voyager explains junk rig choice

My decision to buy a Chinese junk-rigged schooner was shaped by several factors. Foremost was the certainty that I would be voyaging and not racing. The second important consideration was the rig’s simplicity. Made up mostly of lines and knots, this feature guaranteed less maintenance time and far less maintenance and replacement costs. There would be no expensive stainless fittings, winches, or high-tech sail materials. The third consideration was ease of handling. I knew that I would probably sail by myself or with inexperienced crews. Therefore, I wanted a boat I could handle safely and comfortably from the cockpit with a minimum of sail handling on the foredeck. Last, I was won over by the design and voyaging exploits of several well-known sailors who experimented with modern interpretations of this almost 2,000-year-old rig.

Back in the 1970s, Thomas Colvin designed and built several junk-rigged boats in Chesapeake Bay. One of his most popular designs, an aluminum schooner called Gazelle, can still be found occasionally in classified sailing magazine advertisements. He extolled the unique charm of the Chinese junk rig in a book called Cruising as a Way of Life.

Englishmen Blondie Hassler and Michael Richey made history by sailing the junk-rigged folkboat, Jester, in 13 successive Atlantic singlehanded races. It was the first singlehanded Atlantic race in 1960 that pitted Chichester against Hassler and his junk-rigged sloop. Chi-chester’s Gypsy Moth won that race, but Jester, captained by Michael Richey, subsequently established a record for the most race attempts. The fact that the boat and rig held up in this most inhospitable North Atlantic Ocean race is a testament to the boat and sail designs. In 1988 Hassler teamed up with Jock McLeod to write a definitive book on the junk-rig called Practical Junk Rig.

A dedicated group of British sailors has adapted this ancient sail plan for modern Western craft. They also formed the Junk Rig Association to further the study and exchange of ideas toward improving the rig. One of my all-time favorite sailor-authors is Bernard Moitessier. This Frenchman was born in Vietnam and acquired much of his early sailing experience in traditional junks. Although he changed to a more modern Bermuda-rigged boat for his many sailing exploits, he wrote nostalgically about those early sailing days in junks.

Almost everyone’s first sailing hero is Joshua Slocum. His greatest exploit is being the first singlehander to make it around the world in 1895 and write about it in a book called Sailing Alone around the World. He accomplished this awesome feat in a boat called Spray, a traditional gaff-rigged schooner. However, later in life he built the junk-rigged Liberdade for a trip from South America back to the U.S. This adventure is described in his book The Voyage of the Liberdade. The writings of these famous sailors made a deep impression on my choice of boat. Admittedly, I was also drawn to the uniqueness of the sail design. I wanted to be different and not have a boat that looked like every other boat in the harbor. I finally settled on a 32-foot Sunbird schooner made in England. It has a traditional Western, fiberglass hull and a pair of tan-bark, Chinese junk sails.

Almost everyone who stops to stare at my rig admires the unusual design but quickly turns the discussion to her poor light-air windward performance. I don’t disagree with this assessment, although I get a little frustrated and defensive having to explain that there is much more to voyaging than going to windward. I feel that the positive qualities of the rig far outweigh this concern.

Over years of coastal cruising I have learned to live with the fact that anywhere from 20% to 40% of passage time is spent under engine power or motorsailing. On my two transatlantic crossings, the engine was used more sparingly, and the sailing was slow but kindly. Even after an unfortunate dismasting of the foresail in mid-ocean, 1,500 miles from the Canaries, the remaining sail provided a safe, albeit slower, passage to the Bahamas.

In his wonderfully illustrated book, Ships of China, Valentin Sokoloff writes, "A hand-crafted sailing ship is a living thing with its own character and charm. A Chinese junk is even more so, and no wonder, as it was invented by an offspring of a nymph and a rainbow. His name was Fu Hsi, the first great ruler, who, they say, was born in 2852 B.C. Then Lu Pan, founder of the art of carpentry, greatly improved the original design. Further generations of Chinese shipwrights gave junks their final seaworthy and practical shape."

The evolution of sailboat design in the West has taken place over a much shorter period of time and a much different tack than in China. Today the epitome of Western boat design is represented by America’s Cup contenders and similar high-tech racing boats. Variations of the Bermuda rig (also known as Marconi rig, for the inventor’s tall radio transmitting tower) is seen on virtually every racing and voyaging boat to come off the showroom floor. For the most part, the emphasis in these designs is speed and, particularly, performance to windward. But there are obviously other aspects of sailing, especially voyaging; that is where the Chinese rig comes into its own.

The distinct advantage of the Chinese balanced-lug rig is in shorthanded, comfortable voyaging. Modern junk rigs have married the ancient designs with new materials, replacing bamboo and grass mats with fiberglass and Dacron. The resulting modern rig can be easily handled with less strength and endurance and without leaving the safety of the cockpit. Sailing with this rig can be relaxed, enjoyable, and safe without the high working loads of more popular triangular sails with their taut sheets and strenuous winching. The junk rig is easily reefed in strong winds and easily balanced for self-steering vanes and for lower loads on the tiller or wheel.

At first sight the rig’s unusual appearance is confusing to Western eyes. However, it is extraordinarily simple, clever, and easy to handle. The balanced-lug sails have full-length fiberglass battens that are laced across the width of the sail from luff to leech, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Each of the battens divides the sail into separate panels. The top batten is the yard, a heavier batten than the others because it carries the full weight of the sail. The bottom batten is the boom. It carries very little load and, therefore, needs to be no larger than the other battens.

The head of the sail is laced to the yard, which is hauled up by the halyard. The halyard is a multi-part block system to reduce the effort of hauling the sail. No winches are needed with this system, and the halyard can be hauled from the cockpit. The sail is held against the mast by a series of batten parrels. The sail always lies on one side of the mast and extends a short distance forward of the mast. This is what makes it a balanced lug rig, similar to a balanced rudder with a small area in front of the rudder stock. On one tack the sail lies directly on the mast. On the other tack it is constrained by the batten parrels. Multiple topping lifts, or lazy jacks, are tied off at the boom and create a cradle for the sail when reefed or completely lowered.

Two additional parrel lines are led back to the cockpit to control the fore and aft position of the sail. The yard parrel is used to hold the yard snugly to the mast. This is most important when the sail is reefed and would have a tendency to swing aft of the mast. The yard parrel brings the sail forward. Similarly, the luff parrel is used to prevent the sail from going too far forward and maintains moderate tension on the luff of the sail. Between these two parrel lines, the sail is kept in correct position, especially when reefed.

Simply lowering the halyard any distance reefs the sail. The more the halyard is lowered, the more panels are reefed. It acts like venetian blinds that are easily raised or lowered. As the panels are reefed, they and their battens lie in the cradle formed by the lazy jack system. The weight of the lowered battens prevents the sails from billowing out between the lazy jacks. The sails are automatically held in check no matter how many battens are lowered. This makes it unnecessary to tie reefing points or bundle the sail with sail ties.

As soon as the halyard is slackened, the sheets become loose, and the sail begins to spill wind. However, unlike other sails, it will not flog and damage itself if the sheet is loosened. The full-length battens make the rig much quieter without the loud banging associated with flogging sails. In light, downwind sailing, the battens also prevent the sails from collapsing periodically, thereby reducing sail wear and noise. A single sheet system controls the boom and all the other battens through a series of spans (sheetlets). This provides control over the entire leech of the sail, unlike a Bermuda rig where sheet control is only over the boom or clew of the sail. Therefore, the load on the tail end of the multi-part sheet is light and easily handled without a winch. The portion of the balanced-lug sail forward of the mast performs an important function, contributing to the safety and comfort of the crew. When wind and boat direction conspire to create an accidental gybe, the small portion of sail before the mast counters the wind’s effect on the remaining sail area and dampens the motion of the sail. This slows the otherwise violent tendency of the sail to flip to the other side of the boat. Both intentional and accidental gybing become much less hair-raising. The free-standing masts of a junk-rigged boat are typically designed to be somewhat flexible. They bend when winds get too strong, and spill the wind in the process. This bending reduces the heeling of the boat and acts as an automatic shock absorber in sudden gusts that would otherwise severely heel a conventional stayed-mast boat.

The Chinese junk-rigged boat is not for everyone. For most people, the Bermuda rig, with its conventional triangular sails, is more popular, either for the look or the windward performance. However, for those seeking a more effortless sailing experience with a unique traditional rig, the junk sail plan is an interesting alternative. n

Michael L. Frankel is a freelance writer who lives in Orange Park, Fla., when he isn’t voyaging aboard his 32-foot Chinese junk-rigged Sunbird, Sabra.

By Ocean Navigator

The Junk rig is without doubt the most efficient cruising rig.   As Junk Rig is not the norm this puts most people off from even considering it.  In many ways you need to experience a junk rig to fully appreciate its wonderful qualities. Come on board! 

In a few simple words the rig's qualities are: 

Despite perceived wisdom and unjustified criticism junk rigs sail WELL to windward compared to average cruising bermudan rig, but cannot compare to a racing boat. 

It is easy to reef and handle in squally conditions

The sails are self-tending when tacking making short tacking under sail effortless

Simple DIY sail making  plus l ow cost and ease of repair

Unstayed mast removes the rigging wire problems

There is no need to change sails and no sail bags down below

For many more read Annie’s 50 Advantages of Junk Rig

https://app.box.com/s/2c2hsbay8fnqprvtpch8

Roger Taylor an extract from “Mingming and the Art of Minimal Ocean Sailing”

https://junkrigassociation.org/sys/website/?pageId=1858701

Visit the  JRA website and join for a mere £7 / $10 a year! Where a wealth of information and expert advice is at hand. 

https://junkrigassociation.org/

JRA 3D Models for the Junk Rig

https://junkrigassociation.org/sys/website/?pageId=1858532

The Junk Rig association YouTube channel

https://youtube.com/channel/UCsW6dCIP3uKKCepxZR13uuA

Sail Design

We wanted a junk rig sail with camber in it for better performance than the flat sail. Aero-junk was not a consideration because of the placement of the mast and its appearance would be at odds with the rest of the design. 

We chose Arne’s method because it was a proven and simple way to make camber sails. 

Arne has written a complete guide for designing and building this style of sail. His excellent and comprehensive documentation is extremely helpful. These documents are regularly updated - as and when he develops new things and make ingenious improvements. 

Arne Kverneland's files

https://junkrigassociation.org/arne

The Myth of the Bad Tack 

https://junkrigassociation.org/Resources/Documents/Arne%20Kverneland's%20files/The%20Myth%20of%20the%20Bad%20Tack.pdf

Practical Junk Rig by HG Hasler - is considered to be the 'bible' for all junk rig information. Complete guide to designing, building and sailing a Hasler style western junk rig, still in print.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Practical-Junk-Rig-Aerodynamics-Handling/dp/1888671424

Sail Making

Sailcloth: Weathermax 80.

The main reason for choosing this is because of its UV protection, guaranteed against sun damage for 10 years.

The sail is supported by many battens, it does not require the strength of the traditional sail cloth. 

Arne’s comprehensive guide made it easy to make the sail, although time consuming.  It took us approximately 10 days to make and 10 days to finish both sails. 

Foresail 30 sqm

Mainsail 50 sqm

Aluminium tube - Battens:  2" x 2 mm, Yard 4.5" x 3 mm

Mainsail tube required extending by 2 ft / 60 cm

Insert overlapping tube 5 times the diameter each end:

Cut aluminium tube - allow for a gap 

Cut corners - helps feeding into the tube 

Jubilee clips and clamps to reduce the diameter for feeding in

Hammer into the batten / yard tube (spray WD40 before start)

Rivet 1st joint - repeat the hammering & tightening process above 

Rivet 2nd joint

Add eyelets & chain - as per Arne's instructions

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• Sailboat Guide

1990 Colvin Gazelle Junk Rigged

• Description

Seller's Description

Price reduced for quick sale. Offers and trades will be considered. price displayed is in USD. i am asking 44000$CAD

Salt Spring Island BC Canada Current moorage fees=approx 7000 annually.

She is a junk rigged schooner!

She has a haul out date set for june 29 2022 in nanaimo for a fresh coat on the underside.

I have way more photos available on a link if you are interested.

I have a recent out of water survey available for those that are curious (Aug 2020).

She has an adjustable bowsprit which when fully extended has an LOA of 48 ft, but when you’re docked, to save on moorage fees you can draw that bit in and bring the LOA to 42’. It is a full keel as well.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with this boat. there’s a 2 year old volvo penta 28hp engine, the fire extinguishers need updating. sails are still in great shape, but I would update them if I were doing a open ocean passage. I have sail plans available.

The steering hydraulic pump I just had serviced by the manufacturer.

It comes with a walker bay dingy, part of it is plastic, other part is inflatable, and there is an air pump for that.

She is fully functioning with head, galley, beautiful cabin and salon. The V berth in the bow would be great for kids, but I use it for storage.

Loads of storage btw.

Also, the bilge is dry throughout winter.

She is currently sitting in ganges marina on salt spring island, whereas i live and work in fort st john bc. Which is the reason i am selling her, it’s too expensive for me to pay for moorage for a boat that never gets used.

Original owner sold her to me after 30 years of taking immensely great care of her. the original owner was also friends with Tom colvin the designer.

The steel hull was done professionally. and with advice from the designer.

This is a well designed sturdy off shore sailing vessel.

I love this boat and it breaks my heart to have to sell it, but that’s life I guess.

If you have any questions at all please feel free to email me.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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