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Should I Buy a Catamaran with Saildrives?

• Post author By Hunter Frey
• Post date October 7, 2020
• 3 Comments on Should I Buy a Catamaran with Saildrives?

Catamaran buyers out there in the world have explicit demands and preferences when it comes to the layout of their catamaran. Things like dagger boards versus keels, Yanmar versus Volvo, flybridge versus bulkhead helms and the list goes on. A hot topic these days is that of the buyer of a straight shaft engine, or the other guy who would like a saildrive unit instead, on his catamaran. Traditionally, there are more straight shaft drive monohulls and more catamaran’s built with saildrives today. This rule tends to go out the window on vessel’s over 50 feet.

Just to gain some perspective, I drove down to the marina by my house, where there are about two hundred vessels tied up in season and about half that being full time slip holders. The marina is known to be the home for many of the Mid-Bays catamarans. It was a beautiful Saturday morning and the marina was already busy at the early morning hour. I decided to speak with ten individuals on catamarans, asking them, if they could choose the drive system of their next boat, what would it be? Saildrive or its contender, the straight-drive that is standard in so many vessels. I was skeptical to find 10 Cat owners to that would be on their boat and I was correct, so 7 of the interviews were done off-site. The results were interesting, but one thing is clear, every owner was firm in their beliefs. Six had saildrives; one 35’, 38’, two 46 footers, 48’ and the biggest out catamaran owner I could find, a 50’, not included in the group, there was one lone wolf, an elderly 28’ with outboards motors.

About half of the conventional shaft owners wish that they had saildrives instead of the existing straight-shat they’re stuck with. Many of the faults and disadvantages of straight-shaft drive are big issues to some but create ease of service as well. Since straight-shafts perform better the less that the prop is angled down, to include spacing for the shaft, the position of the engines is forward of the sterns. This creates an unfortunate design plan that involves boats with straight shafts, to house the engines under the aft bunks. This isn’t necessarily the case in the larger cats bigger than 45 feet in the great many smaller vessels. These straight shafts tend to be very noisy and the bulk heading tends to be very warm, since it puts off a significant amount of heat. Outside of generating noise, vibration and there are much longer exhaust lines that have to be funneled thru the hull aft, and out of the boat. In my opinion this is leaving exponential risk for exhaust leaks into the vessel. Yikes. Of all the boat owners that I spoke to, only two mentioned this happening. Moving on, since the prop is at angle, straight shafts produce less effective horsepower at the prop. According to builders at Volvo-Penta, on a standard 40 foot boats horse power engine, the straight shaft drive looses 3-5 horsepower over catamaran with Volvo-Penta sail drives. Interesting fact! Lastly, straight shafts must be aligned exactly, and put thus puts a lot of pressure on the engine mounts, requiring realignments occasionally.

The general agreement with the advantages to a straight-shaft driven vessel, even with the engines being forward, is that the laws of physics kick in. Anytime weight is moved forward and towards the center in a boat, pitching force is then, lowered. More builders are putting the engines in the very center of their hulls of their race and performance cat’s for this very reason. Balanced low and in the center, allowing the bow to cut through the waves instead of going over. The main reason many get the conventional shaft drive, is due to the cost being much easier on the checkbook. Repairs are easier and more affordable at the same time, since there is more room to access. Lastly, for all the larger boat owners out there, if you want anything over 75 horses, it’s going to be in straight shaft only. Currently there are no sail drives over 75 horsepower that I could find.

Once talking with the saildrive owners, I was intrigued. Of course, with the older saildrive models, there were reports of many repairs, countless hours and dollars spent to repair. Eventually older units were replaced and with much emphasized routine maintenance, kept up and running, smoothly. The older model’s biggest issues are leaking gaskets and faulty shifting issues. Saildrives have seals in them that are designed to prevent saltwater from getting inside to the grease and oil lubricated drive-shaft leg. When compromised, saltwater leads to the fatal deterioration of the oil. It is easy to check and ensure that there is no seawater inside your saildrive housing. Simply inspect the fluid level, if milky-white liquid is seen, it is time to replace your seals with a haul out and change the oil. That’s the result of water mixed with oil. The most influential factor in the care of saildrives’ is the proper zinc protection. It’s critical not to skimp on the zinc, because otherwise, you will corrode the shaft. Make sure to properly inspect all zinc to prevent corrosion. Last, upgrading or conversions of saildrives’ involves intricate work and is expensive.

Every saildrive owner that I spoke to had plenty of good to say in the end about their experiences. Mainly, the engines aft are heavenly, to say the least. There is significantly less noise, heat, vibration and much more room due to compact size engines with a saildrive, can fit in. Most of newer cat’s engine rooms’ are watertight as well, adding extra safety onboard. With the weight of the motors aft, the trend in cats is they sit back quite literally on their haunches like their feline friends. The hulls pierce through the waves, dampening the pitching movement. And alas, with their overall quietness, engine alignment is not as critical as a straight shaft and you are receiving the actual horsepower at the prop.

So, wrapping this article up, is there any difference when running aground, I wondered? It would seem the safer of the vessels are ones with saildrives in their water-tight compartments. Regardless of choice of drive, there is still going to be quite a bit of, either way. (Bent shafts, props, flooding, etc.) The good news is that if you are getting hung up on the decision to choose between a conventional shaft or sail drive as your buying concern, hang it up. If you are sold and change your plan on having a straight-shaft drive, please keep in mind you will live with all the positives and negatives that I talked about above. When I went and shopped around, I found almost 90 % of all the cat’s I looked at, which were modern, from 30-50 feet, were all saildrive. Seems as if, builders have decided that the benefits of saildrive outweigh the concerns of it and therefore seems to be overall, much better for the use in mid-size range of catamarans.

• Tags Buying Advice

By Hunter Frey

My name is Hunter Frey. I’m a sailor, writer and adventurer. It’s my passion to enjoy life, get the most out of it, and have no regrets. I like to share about the things I learn and experience.

3 replies on “Should I Buy a Catamaran with Saildrives?”

Should you let sail drives free wheel

I am not as familiar with Volvos, but you leave in neutral for Yanmar: https://www.yanmar.com/media/global/com/product/marinepleasure/sailBoatPropulsion/operationmanualgears/SD_OM_27MAR09.pdf

When sailing, set the remote control lever in neutral. Not doing so WILL introduce slippage and void your warranty

What are the annual maintenance costs for the sail drive vs the shaft drive?

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SAILDRIVES OR STRAIGHT SHAFTS? WHICH IS BEST FOR ME?

Story by Phillip Berman / June 20, 2017

Many buyers who contact us these days develop some very strong personal preferences about a range of things: dagger boards versus keels, Yanmar versus Volvo, Flybridge versus Bulkhead Helms, etc. etc. Many buyers send us long “Must Have” lists.

One of the “Must Have’s” we are getting from some buyers these days is: “straight shaft engines.” Either there is a builder or two out there touting them because that is what they happen to offer, or some forum or blog or owner group stating their superiority, but we see a bit of an uptick in people who think straight shafts are the only way to go. What is clear to me is that most of these catamaran purchasers do not fully understand the advantages and disadvantages of straight shafts over sail drives or recognize how many limitations and negatives they pose for catamarans under 50 feet in length. Let me clear a few things up.

Straight Shaft Advantages

• Nobody currently makes sail drives for engines much larger than 75 horse power. As such, on most production cruising cats over 50 feet you will only be able to get straight shafts.
• Straight shafts are relatively mechanically simple. You have a shaft coming directly off the back of the engine that runs through a seal and then to a cutlass bearing and out into the water.
• Straight shafts are generally cheaper and easier to repair than sail drives.
• Straight shafts force the designer and builder to place the engines further forward in the boat and anytime you move weight toward the center you reduce pitching momentum. Many racing multihulls carry their engines in the very center of their hulls for this reason

Straight Shaft Disadvantages

• Straight shafts require precision engine alignment and tend to put much more pressure on engine mounts. Engines often need to be realigned.
• Straight shafts are always louder and produce more vibration than sail drives. In larger cats with long sterns and space the engines and shafts can remain aft of the sleeping quarters in separate sound insulated compartments. On smaller cats this is generally not the case.
• Straight shafts produce less effective horsepower at the prop because the prop is at an angle. On a typical 40 foot horse power engine you lose 3 to 4 horse power over a cat with sail drives.
• The less the prop is angled down the better the performance on a straight shaft. That usually means positioning the engines quite forward of the sterns. This in-turn produces the enormous negatives of having to house the engines under the aft bunks, or a portion of them, in most cats under 50 feet in length. This amounts to: louder inside the living spaces, more vibration, more heat, and a potential for engine exhaust to encroach on the yachts interior. It also makes it a bit more difficult to properly ventilate the engine rooms.
• Sleeping close to, or over the top of a running engine, especially a straight shaft, can be noisy and hot. Most shaft seals are supposedly “dripless,” but anyone who has spent time around them knows that when the dripless seal starts to drip you had better take care of it fast. I have seen plenty of flooded engine rooms in my years on straight shaft cats. Both seals and cutlass bearings are therefore best replaced every two to three years. Straight shafts, in short, are not maintenance free.

Sail Drive Advantages

• Sail drives are very quiet.
• Exact engine alignment is not critical.
• Sail drives can be positioned further aft in cats with ease and therefore make it possible to keep the engines out of the aft staterooms and in their own watertight engine rooms. On cats under 50 feet the design trend today is to produce sharper bows and wider, flared sterns aft, both to manage the engine weight aft and to get the cat to sit back on her haunches and pierce through waves to dampen pitching moment. A good example of this is the evolution of the Leopard 47 (a straight shaft boat) to the far superior sailing Morelli and Melvin designed Leopard 46 (a sail drive boat.)
• Sail drives offer more horsepower at the prop.

Sail Drive Negatives

• Sail drives generally cost more to replace than shafts. The typical drive leg for a 40 to 50 foot cat is between $3,500 and $5,000 dollars.
• Sail drives legs must always have good zinc protection or there is a danger of the shaft corroding. Sloppy zinc inspections can lead to the destruction of sail drive legs. I’ve seen plenty of this at surveys from sloppy owner care.
• Sail drives carry seals that are meant to prevent salt water incursion into the lubricated shaft leg. If the seals are compromised salt water can enter the drive leg and lead to internal corrosion. Note: water incursion in a drive leg is easily seen if one inspects the sail drive fluid level and finds milky looking oil. Most prudent sailors replace their sail drive seals at least every other haul out. If they see milky fluid they change the fluid right away and then replace the seals at the next haul out. (The newer drives allow you to change the oil from inside the engine room easily, without having to haul the boat.). When a sailor finds milky fluid on the older sail drive legs it is good to run the engines and transmissions frequently. This will keep the sail drive oil emulsified until the next haul when the seals can be replaced.
• Some older sail drives had cone clutch or shifting problems. These were sometimes found on Yanmar SD 50 drive legs. That problem has been overcome with the new generation drives.

I have heard some internet chatter that straight shafts are better if you run aground, but I strongly disagree. If you run aground hard with shafts or sail drives and for any reason they are not protected by a keel, or mini keels, or a skeg, you are going to have a bit of a mess on your hands either way. One of the reasons I much prefer engines in their own watertight engine rooms is that if one does run aground and water enters the engine room from a broken shaft or sail drive leg, the water remains in the engine room, never enters the living quarters where water damage leads to major floor and woodwork repair in general.

• Sleeping close to, or over the top of a running engine, especially a straight shaft, can be noisy and hot. Most shaft seals are supposedly "dripless," but anyone who has spent time around them knows that when the dripless seal starts to drip you had better take care of it fast. I have seen plenty of flooded engine rooms in my years on straight shaft cats. Both seals and cutlass bearings are therefore best replaced every two to three years. Straight shafts, in short, are not maintenance free.

About Phillip Berman

• Are you a Spreadsheet Guy?
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Electric Saildrive and Pod Boat Motors

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Welcome to what we believe is the most complete guide to electric saildrive and pod boat motors. It provides top line details for more than 150 individual motors sorted by power range, style and usage. It has been assembled to provide a single place where someone interested in electric marine propulsion can find comparative information for motors made all over the world.

You may also be interested in our other guides »» Guide to Electric Outboards Under 5kW »»  Guide to Electric Outboards Over 5kW »» Guide to Electric Inboards »» Guide to Electric Trolling Motors »» Guide to Electric Boat Batteries

»» Plugboats also has the world’s largest and most complete Directories of over 600 elect ric boats, motors, batteries, accessories, solar panels and rental/charter companies

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The top of this web page is the Illustrated Guide with photos of the motors and specifications to the right.

Sortable/Searchable Table

At the bottom of the page is a table that can be searched if you know you are looking for a certain type of motor (i.e. pod or saildrive), a certain power range, or for a specific weight/length of boat. If you are going to use the table, the page is best viewed on a computer rather than mobile or tablet.

Illustrated Guide

The motors are organized in alphabetical order by manufacturer, then by style of motor, i.e. fixed pod, steerable pod, saildrive and then by power of motor within those listing. For many styles there are multiple powers of motor available and where that is the case we have made it as easy as possible to line up the motor with its specifications. i.e. if there are three power of motor with different weights, it will be noted as kW: 2kw, 2kw, 3kw • Weight: 10kg, 12kg, 15kg. For some manufacturers the variations are more complicated and we have done our best to make it simple and understandable.

There is a lot of variety in the way manufacturers detail the technical attributes of their products. We have tried to take the most common measurements and assemble an ‘apples to apples’ comparison. See the notes below in ‘Measurements’

The photographs and drawings are from the manufacturers’ websites and are not shown in any consistent scale.

kW • Voltage • Current • HP: Not all manufacturers list all of these specifications. We have included the specifications available and where not available have used the notation N/A.

kW is the kW rating provided by the manufacturer. Most websites do not indicate whether it is input or output kW. When it is indicated, we took the output.

Voltage is most often referred on the sites as ‘Voltage’. Some indicate nominal or peak, we have used nominal and indicated if peak is also referenced.

Current Is noted when the manufacturer supplies the information. Generally it is measured in amperes: A. In some cases the manufacturer uses Amp Hours: Ah and we have noted it where that is used.

HP : is ‘HorsePower equivalent’ so that you can get an idea of the power of the motor in comparison to a HP rating you might be more familiar with. Where available, these measurements come from the manufacturer’s website, and different manufacturers measure the HP in different ways. Some even use metric horsepower, which is slightly different from imperial horsepower. Again, we have tried to make it as apples to apples as possible. (For general guidance, 1kW is round one and a third HP 1kW=1.3HP, or the reverse is that 1HP is around three quarters of a kW: 1 HP = .75kW).

Static Thrust. Torque, Efficiency: This is probably the specification that has the most variability. We have simply given whatever information the manufacturer has published on their website, when available.

Range and Running Time : We have not included estimates of range or running time because it depends on too many factors: battery size (sometimes type also), water conditions, speed, etc. The exceptions are for the ePropulsion and Torqeedo models which have batteries from the manufacturers specifically matched to the motors and therefore provide estimates on their websites.

General : If a manufacturer publishes a specification, we have tried to include it here, even tough other manufacturers may not include the same type of measurement.

Information on this page updated February 4, 2024

You may also want to check our Directory of Electric Boat Motor manufacturers, dealers and distributors around the world, or the Plugboats Marketplace of electric boat motors for sale.

Manufacturers in this Buying Guide: Aquamot • Bellmarine • Combi • Electric Yacht • ELECTRINE • EP Technologies • ePropulsion • E-TECH • Fischer Panda • Gardenergy • Kräutler • Navigaflex • Oceanvolt • Piktronik • Rim Drive Technology • Seadrive • TEMA • Torqeedo

Aquamot was founded in 2003 by engineer Siegmund Hammerstrom and has grown to be a leading manufacturer of electric motors and accessories, including outboards inboards, chargers and batteries. They have two lines of fixed pod motors: Trend and Professional, as well as a line of steerable pods that line up with the power ranges of the Professional line.

Aquamot Trend Fixed Pod 1.1FM and 1.6FM

• Recommended Boat Size: <1.8 tons
• kW : 1.1 / 1.6 • Voltage : N/A • Current : N/A • HP : 3.5 / 5 • Static thrust : 89lbs
• Motor Type : Brushless AC asynchronous • Passive water cooled (motor underwater)
• Weight (kg) : 10.2 / 11.3
• Propeller/RPM : 3 blade fixed, folding optional • RPM : N/A
• Other : Includes: Integrated/removable lithium battery (0.64kWh), charger, display, emergency kill switch. Optional: spare battery, customized compensation wedge, folding propeller ($US 835). Warranty: 2 year limited
• Country of Manufacture : Austria
• Price (MSRP) : $US 2,200 / $2,600

Aquamot Trend Fixed Pod 2.2FM and 4.3FM

• Recommended Boat Size: <4 tons kW : 2.2 / 4.3 • Voltage : 24 / 48 • Current : N/A • HP : 6.4 / 11 • Static thrust : 124 lbs / 197 lbs
• Motor Type : Brushless AC asynchronous• Passive water cooled (motor underwater) Weight (kg) : 12.2 / 13.9
• Other : Includes: Controller, display, basic cables, emergency kill switch. Optional: customized compensation wedge, folding propeller ($US 835). Two year limited warranty.
• Price (MSRP) : $US 3,300 / $3,750

Aquamot Trend Fixed Pod 11.0FM to 25.0FM

• Recommended Boat Size: N/A
• kW : 11 – 25 • Voltage : 48 – 96 • Current : N/A • HP : 28 – 45 • Static thrust : n/a
• Motor Type : Brushless AC asynchronous• Passive water cooled (motor underwater)
• Weight (kg) : 44.3 – 48.9
• Propeller/RPM : 3 blade fixed • RPM : N/A
• Other : Includes: Controller, display, basic cables, emergency kill switch. Optional: customized compensation wedge. Warranty: 2 year limited
• Price (MSRP) : $US 7,150 / $9,915

Aquamot Professional Fixed Pod F10e to F250e

• kW : 1 – 25 • Voltage : 24 – 96 • Current : N/A • HP : 45 – 339 • Static thrust : n/a
• Motor Type : Sensor-less AC asynchronous • Passive water cooled (motor underwater) • Efficiency : 92%
• Weight (kg) : 12 – 50
• Propeller/RPM : 2 blade fixed, folding/feathering optional • RPM : N/A
• Other : Integrated anode, permanently usable for salt or fresh water, maintenance free. Operating efficiency 92%, Included: Custom-made compensation wedge, Controller, throttle, battery monitor, cables, Optional: display, folding/feathering propeller. Warranty: 2 year limited
• Price : N/A

Aquamot Trend Steerable Pod UF10e to UF250e

• Other : Optimized cavitation plate. Permanently usable for salt or fresh water, maintenance free. Operating efficiency 92%, Included: Custom-made compensation wedge, Controller, throttle, battery monitor, cables, Optional: display. Warranty: 2 year limited

»» Bellmarine website

Bellmarine is a very well established electric boat motor company with a history going back to 1999. Along the way they merged with a battery accessory manufacturer and have now been purchased by Transfluid, a large scale industrial motor manufacturer. Bellmarine offers a wide range of electric boat motor configurations, with their saildrive system consisting of their own motor combined with Yanmar drive mechanics. They range from 2kW to 20kW in power with either air or liquid cooling. They also offer a regeneration option. You may want to download the full Bellmarine catalogue

Bellmarine SailMaster Air Cooled Models 2A, 5A, 7A, 10A, 15A, 20A Download .pdf brochure

• kW : Bellmarine uses Nominal and Intermittent kW measurements. These are the intermittent figures: 2, 5, 7, 8, 10, 15, 20 • Voltage : 48V except for the 8A, 15A and 20A models which are 96V • Current : N/A • HP : 2.5, 6.5, 9, 10.5, 13, 20, 25
• Motor Type : Permanent Magnet AC • Air cooled
• Weight (kg) : N/A
• Propeller/RPM : propeller not supplied • RPM : Motor: 1500, Propeller 750 except for 20kW which is Motor 3000, Propeller 1500
• Other : Includes Yanmar SD25 Sail drive leg with 2:1 reduction, motor, controller, , stainless steel motor support brackets.
• Country of Manufacture : Netherlands

Bellmarine SailMaster Liquid Cooled Models 3W, 7W, 10W, 15W, 20W Download .pdf brochure

• kW : Bellmarine uses Nominal and Intermittent kW measurements. These are the intermittent figures: 3, 7, 10, 15, 20 • Voltage : 48V: for all models except 8A, 15A and 20A   –   96V:  Models 8A, 15A, 20A • Current : N/A • HP : 4, 9, 13, 20, 25
• Motor Type : Permanent Magnet AC • Liquid cooled
• RPM : 1500: Models 2A, 5A, 7A, 8A, 10A, 15A   –  3000: Model 20A 

»» Combi website

Combi Outboards was founded in 1979 in Giethoorn (‘the Dutch Venice’) to supply rental boats with clean electric power. It is now a leading international supplier of electric propulsion solutions for the maritime market. Combi manufactures inboards, pods, hybrids and outboards. There are six pods ranging in power from 1kW to 3.5 kW: 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3 and 3.5kW. They are available both as fixed pod or steerable pods.

Combi Nautic Fixed Pod/Saildrive Download .pdf brochure

• kW : 1.0 – 3.5 • Voltage : 24 (1.0kW + 1.5kW), 48 (2.0kW – 3.5kW) • Current : 42A – 73A • HP : 4 – 9
• Motor Type : Asynchronous AC • passive water cooled Weight (kg) : N/A
• Propeller/RPM : 3 blade fixed – 220mm or 230mm • RPM : 1050 (3.5kW 1300) Other : “Easy Connect” system delivered Plug & Play for owner installation. 

Combi Nautic Steerable Pod Download .pdf brochure

The Steerable Pod Nautic models have the same specifications as the Saildrive models above.

• Motor Type : Asynchronous AC • passive water cooled
• Propeller/RPM : 3 blade fixed – 220mm or 230mm • RPM : 1050 (3.5kW 1300)
• Other : “Easy Connect” system delivered Plug & Play for owner installation. 

Electric Yacht

Electric Yacht is one of the premier US suppliers of saildrives. They have developed a Plug-n-Play system that has been engineered for quick, simplified installation as well as long term durability. Their systems offer regenerative power while under the sail. 10 years of proven production with over 450 installs. 3 Year Warranty

Electric Yacht QuietTorque™ 10.0 Sail Drive

• Recommended Boat Size: <6 tons – 34’ (10m)
• kW : 10 • Voltage : 48 • Current : 200A • HP : 10.5
• Motor Type : Brushless PMAC
• Weight (kg) : 45
• Propeller/RPM : 2 or 3 blade, fixed or folding, 12”  – 16” • RPM : N/A
• Other :  Installs through 9” hole, Anodized aluminum frame and waterproof throttle,Digital Display of: State of Charge (SOC, Voltage, Current, Power, Motor RPM, time to discharge based on current power consumption, updated in real time, Programmable regeneration. 3 Year Warranty. 
• Country of Manufacture : USA
• Price (MSRP): $US 11,995

Electric Yacht QuietTorque™ 20.0 Sail Drive

The Electric Yacht Quiet Torque 20 is essentially the 10.0 with twin motors

• Recommended Boat Size: <12 tons – 45’ (14m), catamarans 40’-46’ (12-15m)
• kW : 20 • Voltage : 48 • Current : 400A • HP : 21
• Motor Type : Brushless PMAC X 2
• Weight (kg) : 77 Propeller/RPM : 2 or 3 blade, fixed or folding, 12”  – 18” • RPM : N/A
• Other :  Installs through 9” hole, Anodized aluminum frame and waterproof throttle,Digital Display of: State of Charge (SOC, Voltage, Current, Power, Motor RPM, time to discharge based on current power consumption, updated in real time, Programmable regeneration. 3 Year
• Warranty. 
• Price (MSRP): $US 14,695

Also: Electric Yacht QuietTorque™ 30.0 Sail Drive (boats <14 tons) Electric Yacht QuietTorque™ LC 45 Sail Drive (boats <17 tons) Electric Yacht QuietTorque™ LC 60.0 Sail Drive (boats <22 tons)

• Recommended Boat Size: 14 tons – 22 tons, 45’- 60′ (15-18m)
• kW : 30 – 60 • Voltage : 48 – 96 • Current : 300Ah – 600Ah • HP : 48 – 65
• Motor Type : Brushless PMAC X 2 • liquid cooled
• Weight (kg) : 100 – 106
• Propeller/RPM : N/A
• Other :  Installs through 9” hole, Anodized aluminum frame and waterproof throttle, Digital Display of: State of Charge (SOC, Voltage, Current, Power, Motor RPM, time to discharge based on current power consumption, updated in real time, Programmable regeneration. 3 Year Warranty. 
• Price (MSRP): $US 19,995 – 23,495

»» ELECTRINE website

ELECTRINE is a Korean manufacturer which has focused on maritime electrification since 2010, when the idea of electric mobility was still relatively uncommon. The company was known as LGM until 2020 and has had a consistent R&D effort for many years. They manufacture electric outboards, inboards and saildrives as well as accessories and Lithium-ion batteries using a Carbon Nano Tube heat exchanger technology. Ther are 6 motors in their eSaildrive line, ranging from 8 kW to 110 kW.

ELECTRINE eSaildrive line: S-8, S-16, S-25 (shown), S-40, S-80, S-110

• Recommended Boat Size: Daysailer / Racing / Monohull /Multihull
• kW : (Max) 8, 16, 25, 40, 90, 110 • Voltage (Vdc): 48, 48, 96, 96, 345.6, 345.6
• Motor Type : N/A
• Weight (kg) : 40.5, 46.5, 50.5, 172, 198, 218
• Other : Hydrogeneration on 8kW and 16kW models. ELECTRINE also makes batteries customized for the motors
• Country of Manufacture : Korea
• Price (MSRP): N/A

EP Technologies

»» ep technologies website.

EPTechnologies is a complete marine propulsion provider for electric and hybrid vessels. The company specializes in custom electric and hybrid systems, but also has ‘off the shelf’ motors, including a range of saildrives. Their Electric Turnable Saildrive offers 360-degree rotation, the key advantage being that no additional thruster is required behind the boat. Other saildrives (SD-25, SD-60, SD-15) have a fixed lower unit. All saildrives are include a complete system utilizing batteries designed and built by EP Technologies.

EP Technologies Turnable Saildrive

• kW : 25 – 60
• Voltage (VDC): 100 – 800
• RPM : 500 – 2000
• Other : 360° Rotatable, Electric servo motor, Joystick Control
• Country of Manufacture : Denmark
• Price : Contact EP Technologies

EP Technologies Saildrives: SD-25, SD-50, SD-15

• kW : SD-25: SD-60: 25, 39, 60, SD-15: 65, 95
• Voltage (VDC): SD-25: 48, SD-60: 100 – 800, SD-15: 400 – 800
• RPM : SD-25: 1000 – 2000, SD-60: 500 – 2000, SD-15: 500 – 2000

ePropulsion

»» epropulsion website.

ePropulsion was  founded in 2012 by three engineers from the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology (HKUST).  The company continues to have a strong engineering culture where each engineer is individually responsible for creating as much value for users as possible. ePropulsion offer two pod models based on their outboards: the 1kW Spirit and 3kW Navy.

Click here to view motors from ePropulsion dealers in the Plugboats Marketplace

ePropulsion Pod Drive Evo 1.0 , 3.0, 6.0

• kW : 1, 3, 6 • Voltage : 40.7, 48 • Current : 25A, 62.5A • HP : 3, 6, 9.9 Static Thrust : 71, 132.6
• Weight (kg) : (Including integrated battery) 14.1, 15.6
• Propeller/RPM : Spirit: 2 blade, 28 × 14.7 cm (11′ × 5.8″), Navy: 2 blade, 26 × 17.1 cm (10.2″ × 6.7″), RPM: Spirit 1200, Navy 2300
• Other : Hydrogeneration, Includes battery and wireless remote controller (cable option also), Spirit has 1.1 kWh lithium battery, Navy has 3.0 kWh
• Country of Manufacture : Hong Kong/China

»» E-TECH website

E-TECH is a subsidiary of boatbuilder Starboats that was started in 2008 because they were dissatisfied with other electric motor offerings in the market at the time. The company has developed fixed pods, steerable pods and outboard motors that all utilize an in-water BLDC (BrushLess DC permanent magnet) pod motor in a watertight aluminum casing. There are 5 pod models available in both fixed pod and steerable pod configuration. All of these are equipped with the ruddershaft, tube and steering lever. There are also 4 models of high torque pods available only in fixed pod format.

Click here to view motors from E-TECH dealers in the Plugboats Marketplace

E-TECH 4 POD, 7 POD, 10 POD, 15 POD, 20 POD Link to Fixed Pod Motors • Link to Steerable Pod Motors Download .pdf brochure

• kW : 4.3, 7.5, 10.9, 16.6, 19.5 • Voltage : 48, 48, 48, 72, 96 • HP : ≈ 6, 10, 15, 22, 27 • RPM : 1350, 1350, 1470, 2240, 2200
• Motor Type : Brushless PMDC • water cooled
• Other :  Includes controller, display with battery monitor, joystick (side- or top mounting), 2m steering cable, 5m connecting cables between controller and steering position (standard 5 meter).
• Country of Manufacture : Poland

The four High Torque E-TECH PODH engines are designed for those applications where a very high torque is needed.

E-Tech High Torque PODH: 13 POD, 18 POD, 23 POD, 35 POD Download .pdf brochure

• kW : 11.9, 16.7, 21.5, 33.7 • Voltage : 48, 72, 96, 144 • HP : ≈ 16, 23, 29, 45 • RPM : 760, 1140, 1520, 2500

Fischer Panda

»» Fischer Panda

Fischer Panda is one of the world’s best known manufacturers of marine generators but are also manufacturers of high quality electric boat motors, sometimes marketed under the ‘Whisperprop’ name. They have an “EasyBox” system that is intended to take the guesswork and complication out of purchasing electric boat motors.

Fischer Panda 48V Underwater Drive System (Easybox) Download .pdf brochure

• kW : 3.8 – 20.0 • Voltage : 48 • Current : N/A • HP : 5 – 25
• Motor Type : Brushless Permanent Magnet (PMAC)
• Weight (kg) : 18.7 – 120
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : Propeller not included • RPM : 600 – 2500 Torque (nM) : 28 – 320
• Other :  Includes: Fischer Panda EasyBox control unit, control panel, throttle Options: Propeller, propeller protector, battery bank, charger, shore power connection.  
• Country of Manufacture : Germany

Fischer Panda EasyBox HV High Voltage System Fischer Panda Download Centre

• Recommended Boat Size: <40 tons
• kW : 50, 80, 100 • Voltage : 360 – 420 • Current : N/A • HP : 65 – 125
• Weight (kg) : 42
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : 5 blade fixed • RPM : 1200 / 1900 Torque (nM) : 398 – 400
• Other :  These motors are generally designed for use by small public transportation ferries, commercial working vessels and privately owned leisure yachts. Systems should be customized.

»» Gardenergyy website

Gardenergy is an Italian company established to offer ‘a simple and reliable product featuring cutting-edge technology’. They use the same motors in a variety of ways, cleverly configuring them for outboard, inboard shaft drives, and either fixed pods or steerable pods.

Gardenergy Pod

To see options and download .pdf brochures, go the Gardenergy site and click on ‘Links’. A pop up will appear with options. There is also an option for price list and a Configurator which can help with system assembly and pricing.

There are five Gardenergy pods with power input of: 2kW, 4.3 kw, 6kW, 8kw, 10kW. They are available as fixed or steerable pods.

• kW : 2, 4.3, 6, 8, 10 • Voltage : 48 except for 2kW which is 24V • Current : N/A • HP : 2.5, 5.5, 7.5, 10, 13
• Motor Type : PMAC
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : 3 blade fixed, folding available • RPM : 2kW: N/A, 4.3kW: 1450, 6kw: 1600, 8kW: 1750, 10kW: 1950
• Country of Manufacture : Italy
• Price (MSRP): Download MSRP Price List $US 3,975 – 6,625

»» Kräutler website

Kräutler is a long-established Austrian manufacturer of industrial electric motors. They began construction of electric boat motors in the 80’s mainly because they could not find a product that would live up to the standards of founder Oswald Kräutler. They make motors for industrial and ship use as well as recreational boats and probably offer the widest range of sailpods and saildrives on this page with everything from small .5kW steerable pods to electrically rotatable saildrives with power up to 30kW.

An explanation about the Kräutler section of this guide: The Kräutler fixed pods are available with AC motors (ACV) or DC motors (GPV). The AC are for smaller boats. They also come in two different configurations: fixed propeller and folding propeller. In the interests of making this page shorter, we have divided them in to the motor types for the written descriptions but have shown you the fixed and folding options in the images. In the table each of the motors has a separate listing. NOTE: The GPV motors are only suitable for short use in salt water.

Krautler Submersible Flange Motor Pods with D C motors Download .pdf brochure

• MOTOR TYPE: GPV
• Recommended Boat Size: <1.9 tons
• kW : 0.5, 0.8, 1.6, 2.2 • Voltage : 24 except for 2.2kW which is 36V • Current : 21, 34, 67, 61 • HP : 0.5, 1.0, 1.8, 2.5
• Motor Type : GPV: DC motor with permanent magnets, continuous control 
• Weight (kg) : 14, 15, 20, 20
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : 3 blade fixed or folding (see intro note above) • RPM : N/A • Torque : N/A
• Other :  ATTENTION: GP motors are only suitable for short use in salt water. Includes: Motor, bracket, electric regulation system, throttle, status display monitor, battery monitor, cables, battery master switcher & fuse, propeller, anode. Operating efficiency 85%
• Price (MSRP):

Krautler Submersible Flange Motor Pods with AC Motors Download .pdf brochure

• MOTOR TYPE: ACV
• Recommended Boat Size: <10 tons
• kW : 1.8, 2.0, 4, 8, 10 • Voltage : 24 (1.8, 2.0kW) 48 (4, 8, 10kw) • Current : 100, 107, 104, 202, 250 • HP : 2.3, 2.5, 5, 10, 13
• Motor Type : ACV: AC brushless three phase asynchronous motor  
• Weight (kg) : 21, 29, 29, 40, 50
• Other :  Includes: Motor, bracket, electric regulation system, throttle, status display monitor, battery monitor, cables, battery master switcher & fuse, propeller, anode. Operating efficiency 75% – 83%

Krautler Submersible Pod with Tiller Handle Download .pdf brochure

• MOTOR TYPE: ACV or GP
• Recommended Boat Size: Sailboat: <10 tons, Powerboat: <6 tons
• kW : 0.5 – 10 • Voltage : 24, 48 • Current : 21 – 250 • HP : 0.5 – 13
• Motor Type : ACV: AC brushless three phase asynchronous motor • GP:  permanent magnet with continuous control 
• Weight (kg) : 15 – 54
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : 3 blade fixed • RPM : N/A • Torque : N/A
• Other :  Includes: Motor, bracket, electric regulation system, throttle, status display monitor, battery monitor, cables, battery master switcher & fuse, propeller, anode. Tubes/diaphragms available for installation. Standard shaft length: 450mm. Operating efficiency 75% – 85%

Krautler Saildrive Compact Download .pdf brochure

• Recommended Boat Size: <4 tons
• kW : 2.0, 3.0, 4.0 • Voltage : 24, 36, 48 • Current : 104, 100, 99 – 250 • HP : 0.5 – 13
• Motor Type : AC brushless three phase asynchronous motor with continuous control 
• Weight (kg) : 42, 42, 42,
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : Propeller not included • RPM : N/A • Torque : N/A
• Other :  ATTENTION: SDK drives are only suitable for short use in salt water. Includes: Motor, saildrive gear, base plate for lamination (depending on motor size), electric regulation system, throttle, status display monitor, battery monitor, cables, battery master switcher & fuse. Operating efficiency 80%, 83%, 84%

Krautler Saildrive Fixed Download .pdf brochure

• Recommended Boat Size: Sailboat: <30 tons, Powerboat <12 tons
• kW : 2.5 – 30.0 • Voltage : 24 – 144 • Current : 104 – 370 • HP : 3.5 – 40
• Motor Type : AC brushless three phase asynchronous motor with continuous control. MOTORS 15.0 – 30.0kW are water cooled.
• Weight (kg) : 45 – 91
• Other :  ATTENTION: Water cooled drives are only useable in seawater with 2-circle water cooling. ATTENTION: SDK drives are only suitable for short use in salt water. Includes: Motor, saildrive gear, base plate for lamination (depending on motor size), electric regulation system, throttle, status display monitor, battery monitor, cables, battery master switcher & fuse. Operating efficiency 85% – 88%

Krautler Saildrive Mechanical Rotatable: 2 x 45° Download .pdf brochure

All of the Krautler motors with specs shown in the fixed saildrives above can be installed with a mechanical rotatable option shown here or electric rotatable option shown below. The Sail-Drive is supplied with a fiberglass foundation base, which can be laminated to the hull (depending on motor size). For existing Volvo and Yanmar foundations the Sail-Drive is equipped with an adapter plate and can be screwed directly on the existing foundation.

Krautler Saildrive Electric Rotable: 2 x 90° or 360° Download .pdf brochure

All of the Krautler motors with specs shown in the fixed saildrives above can be installed with an electric rotatable option shown here. The Sail-Drive is supplied with a fiberglass foundation base, which can be laminated to the hull (depending on motor size). For existing Volvo and Yanmar foundations the Sail-Drive is equipped with an adapter plate and can be screwed directly on the existing foundation. The electrical rotating mechanism includes an actuating drive with gearbox, electric regulation system for the drive, a steering lever and display.monitor indicating propeller position

»» Navigaflex website

The innovative Navigaflex motor has a Patent Pending design in which the motor itself retracts and pivots and can attached to the boat as an outboard or inboard motor. The motor is made with a minimum of parts, a light construction and is adaptable to all boat hulls. The standard motor can also be ordered with a “booster” to double the power for up to 2 minutes.

Navigaflex Motor

• Recommended Boat Size:  2 tons / 8m – 16 tons / 18m kW : 6kW, 8kW, 10kw, 15KW • Voltage : 48 (nominal) • HP : 8, 11, 13.5, 20
• Motor Type : Brushless Permanent Magnet (PMAC) • Water cooled (10kW and 15KW)
• Weight (kg) : 54 (4KW) – 68 (15KW)
• Propeller/RPM : 2 blade fixed •  RPM : N/A
• Other : Retractable motor, Option to regenerate the current under sails, Digital motor controller with touch screen and mobile phone connected remotely.
• Country of Manufacture : Switzerland
• Price : $US 8,000 – 16,000

»» Oceanvolt website

Oceanvolt is one of the best known names in saildrives and its ServoProp regenerating system is regarded as one of the first and best. It is difficult to provide full information about their systems because their website encourages customers to provide information for customized solutions. These are some basics

Click »» here to see Oceanvolt motors for sale from vendors in the Plugboats Market

Oceanvolt SD Saildrive See more detailed information

• Recommended Boat Size:  < 80 ft / 25m
• kW : 6, 8, 10, 15 • Voltage : 48 • HP : 8, 11, 13.5, 20
• Motor Type : Synchronous permanent magnet • Closed circulation liquid cooling provides cooling and lubrication
• Weight (kg) : 42.5, 42., 46.5, 46.5
• Propeller/RPM : Propeller not included •  RPM : 2200 • Gear Reduction Ratio : 1.93: 1
• Other : Includes: Battery communication kit, hydrogeneration feature • Sold separately: Batteries, Charger, Propeller • Sail Drive with 1.93:1 reduction. Closed circulation liquid cooling provides cooling and lubrication. 10kW and 15kW systems include 15.2kWh Li-ion battery bank, charger
• Country of Manufacture : Finland
• Price : $US 13,500 – 45,000

Oceanvolt Servoprop Saildrive

The Oceanvolt ServoProp is a patented variable pitch sail drive that ‘combines a high efficiency sail drive with the most powerful hydro generator on the market’. Unique feature is the possibility to turn the propeller blades more than 180 degrees. The software controlled variable pitch sail drive adjusts the pitch of the propeller blades automatically so that the power generation and power output are optimal. The blades are designed to give the system maximum efficiency in forward, reverse and regeneration. With the blades set to the neutral sailing position, the propeller creates extremely low drag similar to the drag of a feathering propeller. ServoProp is capable of generating more than 1 kW at 7-8 knots & 3 kW at 11-12 knots.

»» Piktronik website

Piktronik is an Austrian-Slovenian company working on the research, development and production of components for electrical vehicles (EV) and boats. Their pods are available in a variety of configurations that vary by the power output. We have noted that below. They also sell motors as complete systems with batteries and chargers.

Piktronik UWM1 – UMW10 On arriving at the linked page, there are links for each motor to download more information

• kW : 1, 2, 5, 6.5, 10 • Voltage : 16, 17, 30, 30, 30 • Current : 50, 92, 120, 150, 200 • HP : 1.4, 2.7, 6.8, 8.8, 13.6
• Motor Type : PMSM (permanent-magnet synchronous)
• Weight (kg) : 18, 23, 25, 51, 95
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : 2 blade fixed – 4 blade fixed • RPM : 1100, 1200, 1850, 1200, 1000 • Torque (nM) : 7, 14, 27, 51, 95
• Other :  Aside from the complete system detailed below the motors alone come in different configurations: 1kW and 2kW: steerable pod or fixed pod, 5kW: steerable pod, fixed pod, transom mount, 6.5kW: steerable pod or transom mount, 10kW: steerable pod or transom mount
• Country of Manufacture : Slovenia

Piktronik SYS Systems 1kW – 10kW On arriving at the linked page, there are links for each motor to download more information

Piktronic sells their motors in complete system kits for each of the motor sizes detailed above. Complete system includes: motor, motor controller, display monitor, cables, siwthces, fuses, battery charger, remote comtrol, steering arm, installation tube, tiller handle, propeller

Rim Drive Technology

Click here to view RIM Drive Technology motors for sale in the Plugboats Marketplace

»» Rim Drive Technology website

Rim Drive technology is a Netherlands company with a line of rim motors in which the propeller blades are affixed to a rim rather than a central hub. There are no wearing parts within the motor and much reduced chance of weeds or other debris snagging or clogging. The motors are available as outboards, pods, azimuths and thrusters. The company offers complete systems or standalone batteries, controllers, monitors and other accessories. The pods in the Guide are sorted as 24V, 48V and 48V+. All pods are available with extended shaft options to reduce hull effects on the rim drive water flow for quieter and smoother operation.

24V Pods POD 3.0, POD 5.0

• kW : 3.0, 5.0 •  Voltage : 24 •  HP : 6.5, 11.0 • Thrust (kg) : – 31, 62
• Battery : Sold separately, recommended LiFePO4 available from Rim Drive
• Running Time : Suggested 4-5 hours with recommended Rim Drive battery pack
• Shaft Length (cm) : N/A extended shaft length available
• Propeller Diameter (mm) : 86, 133
• Weight (motor only) (kg) : 3.5, 5.0
• Other : One year warranty for non-commercial use, Completely waterproof (IP68), Efficiency 90+, Includes 2m cable set
• Price : €3,340, €4,000

48V Pods: 5 motors POD 0.5, POD 3.0, POD 5.0, POD 11.0, POD 15.0

• kW : 0.5, 3.0, 5.0, 9, 11, 16 •  Voltage : 48 •  HP : 1, 6.5, 10, 20, 28 • Thrust (kg) : – 7, 31, 62, 156, 250
• Running Time : Up to 7 hours with suggested Rim Drive battery pack
• Propeller Diameter (mm) : 65, 86, 133, 212, 341
• Weight (motor only) (kg) : 2.5, 3.5, 5.0, 14.0, 70.0
• Price : €3,300, €3,400, €4,000, €6,850, €18,000

96V, 110V, 400V Pods POD 25.0, POD 30.0, POD 50.0

• kW : 25, 30, 50 •  Voltage : 96, 110, 400 •  HP : 42, 52, 74 • Thrust (kg) : – 380, 400, 750
• Running Time : Average 3 hours with suggested Rim Drive battery pack
• Propeller Diameter (mm) : 341, 341, 341
• Weight (motor only) (kg) : 70, 70, 75
• Price : €25,000, €25,000, €48,000

Steerable Pods (8 models) Steerable POD 3.0, 5.0, 8.0, 11.0, 15.0, 25.0, 30.0, 50.0

• kW : 3, 5, 8, 11, 15, 25, 30, 50 •  Voltage : 48, 48, 48, 48, 48, 96, 110, 400-550 •  HP : 42, 52 • Thrust (kg) : 31, 62, 120, 156, 195, 350, 400, 750
• Weight (kg) : 21.5, 23, 32, 32, 37, 110, 110, 110
• Other : Rotatable up to 200 degrees, Waterproof hull passthrough, Stainless steel or glass fibre seal available, Salt water resistant (IP68), Motor controller included, Joystick, steering wheel or CAN controlled
• Price : €7,350, €8,225, €12,075, €12,375, €14,900, €31,995, €31,995, €55,500

»» SeaDrive website

SeaDrive is a Norwegian manufacturer that has an innovative approach to pods, saildrives and all electric boat motors for which they received a nomination for a 2019 DAME Award. The concept is that the basic motors can be configured: fixed pods, steerable pod, a saildrive or lift-up azimuth side pod – also with the ability to have the propellers arranged for push propulsion or pull propulsion.  There are also regenerative versions available. The pod motor systems come in three power ratings: 7.5, 15 and 30.

SeaDrive Modular Pods/Saildrives/Lift-Up Azimuths

• kW : 5-7.5, 10-15, 20-30 • Voltage : 48, 96, 144 • Current : NA • HP : 7.5, 15, 32 • Static Thrust: 90, 160, 300
• Weight (kg) : Motor Weight: Aluminum: 20, Bronze 23. Total Weight differs by configuration
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : Fixed or folding • RPM : N/A • Torque N/A
• Other :  re-generative versions and TABLET/PC control.
• Country of Manufacture : Norway

»» TEMA website

TEMA is a Croatian company that makes highly regarded electric motors that can be purchased alone or in systems for marine, industrial and power generation applications. Their saildrive system uses their SPM132 series of very efficient compact permanent magnet motors. The motors operate on either DC or AC voltages and can be powered from battery systems (48 96Vdc) or generators.

TEMA SYS Systems 1kW – 10kW Download .pdf of Systems configuration Download .pdf of SPM Motors

• kW : For each of their models TEMA has dual figures – kW output at 1800/3600 RPM. The 5 models range in listed power from 12/19kW to 35/57kW • Voltage : There 48 and 96 Voltage availble for all models. • Current : 50, 92, 120, 150, 200 • HP : At 1800/3600 RPM they range from 25/39 to 47/76
• Motor Type : PMAC (Permanent Magnet AC), PMS (Permanent Magnet Synchronous) • Air cooled
• Weight (kg) : 73, 93, 110, 130, 148
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : Propeller not supplied • RPM : 1800/3600 across all motors • Torque (nM) : Maximum: 70, 111, 145, 178, 205
• Other :  Includes all components: e-motor, motor controller, saildrive, marine throttle, display, plug and play wiring. Efficiency: 95%.
• Country of Manufacture : Croatia

»» Torqeedo website

Torqeedo is the world’s leading manufacturer of electric outboards. The company was founded in 2004 by Dr Christoph Ballin and Dr Friedrich Böbel when they decided they could build a better electric motor than the one on the boat Dr. Ballin had just purchased. The company offers trolling motors, inboards, outboards and pod motors and works with BMW’s battery division as well as partnering with many of the world’s premier boat designers and manufacturers. It may be useful to download the full Torqeedo Catalogue

Torqeedo Cruze FP Pod 2.0 – 4.0 Operating instruction .pdfs can be downloaded from link above

• kW : 2, 4 • Voltage : 2kW: 24, 4kW: 48 • Current : N/A • HP : 6, 9.9 • Static Thrust 155 lbs, 189 lbs
• Motor Type : Brushless External Rotor Motors with Rare-earth Magnets • Operating efficiency 56%.
• Weight (kg) : 15.4, 15.8 Propeller/RPM/Torque : 3 blade fixed or folding • RPM : 1300
• Other :  GPS on-board computer & display: Real-time speed, input power. Operates with lithium or AGM/lead-gel batteries, exact battery status and remaining range available when using Torqeedo battery. Emergency magnetic kill switch.
• Price (MSRP): $US 4,549, 4,999

Torqeedo Cruze FP Pod 10.0 Operating instruction .pdfs can be downloaded from link above

• Recommended Boat Size: <10 tons kW : 10 • Voltage : 48 • Current : N/A • HP : 20 • Static Thrust ≤ 405 lbs
• Weight (kg) : 33.5
• Propeller/RPM/Torque : 5 blade fixed or folding • RPM : 1400
• Other :  Includes: Remote throttle, integrated on-board computer with GPS-based range calculation, 70 mm² cable set (3 m) including fuse and main switch, plug connector. 2 year warranty.
• Price (MSRP): $8,999

Torqeedo Cruze FP Saildrive 10.0 Operating instruction .pdfs can be downloaded from link above

• kW : 10 • Voltage : 48 • Current : N/A • HP : 20 • Static Thrust ≤ 405 lbs
• Weight (kg) : 37

Torqeedo Deep Blue 25 Saildrive

• Recommended Boat Size: <50 tons
• kW : 25 continuous, 33 peak • Voltage : 345 • Current : N/A • HP : 40 • Static Thrust ≤ 405 lbs
• Motor Type : Brushless External Rotor Motors with Rare-earth Magnets • Operating efficiency 55%.
• Weight (kg) : 125, 314 total system including 1 battery
• Propeller/RPM : Propeller : not included • RPM : 1200
• Price (MSRP): On Request with requirements input

Table: Searchable and Sortable

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Sail Drives

Saildrives are often used on catamarans as they result in a very compact drive system.  Multihulls have narrow hulls, so there's not enough room to walk around an engine, as there is on most monohulls.  So a catamaran's engines are usually under the aft bunks, which usually doesn't leave much room for a gearbox, propeller shaft, external "A" bracket, and still have room for the rudder.  Saildrives attach to the back of the engine and immediately go down through the bottom of the boat, sort of like the leg of an outboard motor.  A pair of flexible seals (the main seal and a backup) keep water from flooding the engine room on Yanmar saildrives (Volvo saildrives only have a single seal).  There are a handful of manufacturers who offer saildrives, but Volvo and Yanmar are probably the biggest, and the vast majority of saildrives we see are produced by those two manufacturers.  Since we have Yanmar 4JH2CE engines and SD31 saildrives, the comments below are aimed primarily at Yanmar saildrives, but Volvo saildrives are similar enough that many of the comments apply to both.

The first 6 subjects we discuss are modifications we recommend folks do to their saildrives.  The last 3 are procedures we've had to do recently and we thought we'd share our experiences, to help others.  Subjects in this article include:

Oil Header Tanks Like virtually all manual gearboxes, saildrives are filled with 90W hypoid oil (ideally, salt-resistant oil if you can find it).  This oil is held in by a pair of oil seals around the propeller shaft.  Those oil seals will eventually wear out so they need to be replaced periodically.  They're usually fairly standard seals, but replacing them means dismantling the bottom end of your saildrive and then disassembling the gear-cluster to get at the seals - a messy and fiddly business requiring some familiarity with the parts and procedures involved (and sometimes requiring special tools).

But it's very important to service those seals before they leak.  Since the saildrive is wholly below water level, the seawater on the outside is at a slightly higher pressure than the oil on the inside.  This means that if the seals start to leak, seawater will enter the bottom of the saildrive and start turning your oil into mayonnaise.  If this happens, you need to haul the boat out of the water and service the saildrive as soon as possible , before the seawater starts to corrode the gears and bearings.

In the Seychelles we ran into an excellent father/son machine shop, and I got to talking with the father.  He'd seen a lot of marine equipment - in fact, he was refurbishing a turbocharger for a 5,000 horsepower diesel engine when I met him.  When I explained this problem with the oil seals, he had an excellent idea:  Put an oil header-tank as high up in the engine room as practicable, and run a hose from it to the saildrive .  That way, the oil will be at a slightly higher pressure than the seawater.  If the seals start to leak before their normal maintenance interval, all that will happen is that a bit of oil will leak out.  You'll be able to see the oil level dropping slightly in the header tank, and that will tell you that you need to replace the oil seals the next time you haul the boat.  But it's no longer an emergency!

We did this conversion in 2009 when we were in South Africa, and it has worked very well.  The oil-fill / dipstick hole is a standard 1" (pipe?) thread, so we just removed the dipstick and replaced it with some pipe fittings to take the hose to the header tank.  Using a plastic reducer where it goes into the saildrive will insure that you have no thread incompatibilities.  Our SD31 required that the pipe extend above the body of the SD before putting in the elbow.  We put a small valve in the hose so we can shut the header-tank oil off when we want to change the saildrive oil, so we don't change the oil in the header.

There are a couple of caveats here.  First, the normal filler/dipstick keeps the pressure in when the oil heats up and expands.  This strikes us as crazy, as it can force the oil past the propshaft seals.  We can see no advantage to letting the pressure increase like that, and this header tank arrangement will keep the oil pressure much more constant, and at a lower pressure than a hot normal dive.  This should be especially good for the oil seal on the input shaft from the engine.

Another issue is that the prop‑shaft oil seals should be turned around.  Oil seals are direction sensitive.  The flat side should go against what you don't care as much about, while the side with the spring (to hold the seal against the shaft) should go towards the side of the stuff you don't want to go past the seal.  Changing the seals around is easy to do once you have the lower gear‑cluster apart.  Some people we've talked to have put the 2 seals back to back, with the inner seal set to keep the oil in, and the outer seal set to keep the water out.  We take this a step further.  In our opinion, keeping the water out is the most important, so we put both seals with their backs towards the gears.  If you do this, remember to remove the spring from any seals that will face the saltwater and replace them with an O‑ring that won't rust, especially if you use generic (non‑Yanmar) seals.

Finally, it will probably take a little while (several days of motoring) before all the air works its way out of the saildrive and up the hose, through the thick oil to the header tank.  While this is happening, it may look like you're losing some oil, but it's just air coming out.  Top it up, and it should stop eventually.

Secondary Seals Yanmar saildrives have 2 flexible seals between the saildrive leg and the hull, to keep the water out.  The primary seal is a monster of thick rubber while the secondary seal, above the primary seal, is much thinner, more like a car inner‑tube.  The secondary seal is what you actually see from above, and it's really only there for emergencies, in case something happens to the primary seal.  But for the secondary seal to be effective, it has to be able to survive whatever caused the primary seal to fail.  It's unlikely that the primary seals will simply "wear out" and develop a leak.  Our seals have been in for 15 years, 4,000 hours of motoring, and they look brand new.  It's going to be an accident that causes that main seal to leak.

In the Ha'apai Group of Tonga we had a big problem when we caught a rope in our starboard propeller and ripped that engine and saildrive clean off its mounts.  This ripped the main seal that joins the saildrive to the hull, so we had water coming into the engine room.  We were very lucky that the secondary seal had just popped off, and could be reset fairly easily.  In fact, once we reset the secondary seal, it didn't even affect our cruising much, as we just continued cruising with our port engine (although anchoring was distressingly awkward).

It turns out that SunSail (who had managed Ocelot before we bought her) had replaced the $70 clip that Yanmar sells to hold that secondary seal with a large $5 stainless‑steel hose‑clamp.  The Yanmar part holds the seal so securely that, had it been used, we might well have shredded the secondary seal as well as the primary!  This would have been a REAL problem, especially since we were out in the boonies - a good 90 miles from what passes for civilization in Tonga.

In our opinion, Yanmar (or any end user with a saildrive) should replace the fancy clip holding the top of that secondary seal with something like a hose‑clamp that holds the seal securely enough, but not too securely.  It's also possible to use a large tie‑wrap (cable‑tie) or several tie‑wraps threaded end‑to‑end, but they will be less secure and harder to loosen in an emergency.  It's an easy and inexpensive modification which could potentially save lots of grief if you ever need that secondary seal.

Plastic Bag Screens Much of the third world has a LOT of plastic garbage in the water.  Motoring through this can get plastic bags sucked up the leg of the saildrive.  In 2019 we had to take the foot off our starboard saildrive, and we found no less than 3(!) plastic bags stuck in the cavity at the joint .  They couldn't have gotten sucked through the 6 small holes just above the propeller, so they much have been sucked up the much larger water intake at the "heel" of the sail‑drive.  So we used a long grabber (what is usually used to retrieve lost bolts in inaccessible places) up that water intake of our port saildrive and retrieved 2 more plastic bags from it!  Twisting the grabber once you grab a bag will make the bag come out more easily.

Both Yanmar and Volvo saildrives have a large (1" or 25mm, square) water inlet in the "heel" of the foot (Yanmars have an additional set of much smaller inlets just above the propeller hub).  In thinking about how to protect this area from further plastic bags, we eventually came up with the following neat and simple solution:

• Drill 4 small holes, 2 on each side of the large water inlet.  I used a 1/16" drill.  Take it slowly, as these small drills break easily.  Drill from just outside the opening in towards the opening.  The holes should be on the order of 1/4" (6mm) long.  Round the edges of the holes if you can.  
• Thread some seizing wire through the holes and across the opening.  We put our holes closer to the edges of the inlet, and then crossed the wires in the middle, so the wire made a total of 4 crossings of the inlet.

That's it!  Pretty simple once the boat is hauled out.  Any plastic that can get through those small holes will flow easily up to our water strainers, but the bags will get stopped before getting sucked up the foot and getting into trouble.

In designing this with our cruising friends, we had some discussion about bi‑metallic action.  Seizing wire is usually monel or stainless steel, which shouldn't react strongly with the aluminum of the saildrive.  But you can also drill a slightly larger hole and strip the insulation off some thin electrical wire and thread the seizing wire through that insulation where it goes through the aluminum, if it makes you feel better.

Another approach might be to drill even larger holes and use plastic tie‑wraps (wire‑ties).  These certainly won't react with the aluminum, but they'll also need to be replaced periodically, as they're both thicker and weaker than wire.

Replacing the water inlet valve I'm not sure what Yanmar was thinking when they decided to use a multi‑turn valve to turn off the cooling water, on the side of the saildrive.  In seawater, calcium leeches out of the water and deposits itself on the screw‑threads of the valve, jamming it so it can't be closed, which makes the valve pretty useless.  You can remove the valve and soak it in acid to remove the calcium, but you'd have to do it every few months, and the boat almost has to be out of the water to remove that valve.  Also, the acid could easily attack parts of the valve as well as the calcium.  Neither of our old valves EVER worked since we bought Ocelot.

The correct thing to do, of course, is to replace the silly multi‑turn valve with a good quality ball‑valve.  We went with a stainless‑steel valve, but given that the saildrive is aluminum, plastic or bronze might be better.  As with all ball‑valves, and especially those bought in 3rd‑world countries, make sure the handle is stainless‑steel as well.  Many places sell cheaper valves with mild‑steel handles that just rust to bits in months.

Sealing the leg with epoxy Most saildrives have an aluminum outer casing.  If you paint this casing with normal copper‑based antifouling paints, you run the risk of bimetallic action eating up your saildrive.  They sell special (non‑copper based) antifouling paints to go on aluminum, but we've never found one that lasted more than about 9 months before starting to allow growth.  Since our normal antifouling paints often last 2‑3 years, it's frustrating to have foul saildrives on an otherwise clean hull.  It's also a pain to have to buy and carry 2 different types of antifouling paint.

In early 2010 we decided to clean our saildrives back to bare aluminum and then coat them in several layers of epoxy, to act as an insulating layer.  Then we could use normal (long lasting) antifouling paints on the whole bottom, including the saildrives and props.  As I write this (about a week after epoxy-coating and painting our saildrives) it all seemed to go quite well.  Our West System epoxy went on like fine varnish, with no running or any signs of beading up or surface tension.  We put 4 layers of epoxy on (in about 4 hours) before painting on the antifouling.  (See the Update below, written 9 years later, for how well this worked.)  We'll especially watch our zinc anodes, to see if they're dissolving faster than normal (the anodes we took off had been on for 3 years).  If anyone else has experience with this, please let us know .

If you decide to do this yourself, make sure you read our article about how to make epoxy stick to aluminum .  It's fairly straightforward to do, but it's not what the paint retailers will recommend.  It involves stripping all old paint off your saildrives (a drill or small angle grinder with a fiber wheel will help tremendously here), cleaning the saildrives well with acetone or alcohol, painting on a good epoxy, and then sanding the aluminum through the wet epoxy (we typically use 80 grit wet/dry sandpaper).  This will remove the oxide layer that forms on aluminum.  Without any free oxygen near the aluminum, it will also prevent the oxide layer from forming again, allowing the epoxy a good chemical bond as well as a good mechanical key.  The epoxy will turn aluminum colored from the sanded off aluminum, but that's OK.  Only the first layer of epoxy needs to be sanded.  If you're using a good epoxy that doesn't contain solvents (like West System epoxy) then the next layer of epoxy can be applied in about an hour, as soon as the under-layer has started to kick off.  It should be mostly tack-free, but still soft enough to dig a fingernail into.  This wet‑on‑wet approach will allow the epoxy to bond well to itself.  If the epoxy is solvent free, then the first layer of antifouling can also be applied before the epoxy has fully hardened, but if you allow the epoxy to harden it should be lightly sanded and cleaned with acetone before applying the next coat.

If the epoxy you use has solvents or, even worse, oils or waxes, you'll need to wait until it hardens completely, then give each coat of epoxy a light sanding and wipe it down with acetone or alcohol to clean off any oils before applying the next coat.  This will require 12‑24 hours between coats.  Better to use a high‑quality epoxy if possible.

Other things to look out for:   Make sure you mask off your anodes well.  Try hard to epoxy coat everywhere you might want to paint, as you don't want straight paint on bare aluminum if you can help it.  This can be difficult around fiddly bits, like up under the rubber boot, or inside the water‑inlet holes.  We sanded our water‑inlet holes by folding a bit of sandpaper into a thin strip and poking it through the holes, pulling it back and forth to sand as much as we could.  You also need to be careful around the oil drain‑plug.  The plug itself is steel and doesn't need epoxy, and you certainly don't want epoxy to get into the crack between the drain‑plug and the casing or into the screwdriver slot, so we'd recommend masking off the whole area for the epoxy phase.  You might even consider squirting a bit of lanolin grease up into the crack with a plastic syringe (we keep a plastic syringe full of lanolin grease handy, as we're constantly using it).

The object of this whole exercise is to provide an insulating layer between the copper in the antifouling paint and the aluminum of the saildrive.  Although the epoxy is only about 0.015" (0.4mm) thick, it should provide good electrical insulation.  Since seawater is so conductive, there may still be a small bimetallic effect, but it should be easily absorbed by the zincs.

Saildrive Boots Saildrives typically have a bit of rubber that goes between the saildrive and the outside of the hull, to make for smooth water-flow around the saildrive.  Both the Yanmar and the Volvo parts are rather thin and flimsy, so they rarely last more than a year or 2.  Being official parts, they're also, of course, quite expensive.

Both of the official parts actually contact the saildrive leg.  This permits a good seal and good water‑flow around the leg, but it also allows engine (and saildrive) vibration to go through the boots, which will eventually tear up both the rubber boot itself as well as whatever adhesive you use to stick the boot to the hull.

In Tonga, our saildrive boots needed replacing.  But the closest Yanmar dealer was in New Zealand, and getting parts out of them was like pulling teeth.  They ignored our emails, even when we put EMERGENCY in big letters on the subject line.  The only way we got their attention was to call them on a satellite phone ("Oh, THAT emergency email...").  Yeesh!

So instead of going through Yanmar, we went up to the local auto‑parts store and bought some truck mud‑flaps.  These are thick (1/4" or 6mm) rubber, much sturdier than the standard Yanmar parts.  Amanda carved these into the correct shape but left a small gap (again, about 1/4" or 6mm) between the boot and the saildrive.  This still permits good water‑flow around the saildrives, but the boot would no longer be subjected to engine or saildrive vibration, so it should last much longer.

To hold these boots in place, we first tapered the edges, to provide less of an edge for things to grab onto.  Then we forced them over the saildrives (the props have to be removed) and cleaned all surfaces thoroughly.  Instead of using contact adhesive, we stuck the boots to the hull with fast‑cure 5200.  Sika‑flex would probably have worked just as well since they're both polysulfide adhesives.  Finally, we made stainless steel strips to go on the edges of the boots, and screwed through the strips and the boots into the hull.  We replaced the starboard side flap in 2019, so it had lasted 15 years!  (But while she was at it, Amanda carved a second pair of saildrive boots, just in case...)

Removing and replacing the saildrive legs, and replacing the main diaphragm: Sometimes it's necessary to remove the leg of the saildrive.  We've had to replace the main diaphragm seal on both sides, and we've also had some arguments with reefs that necessitated removing the legs.  We also know boats where water has crept into the oil from the leg joint, requiring replacing the O‑ring between the leg and the gearbox.

First, drain the oil, and remove the rubber "boot" that goes between the leg and the hull (and see our section on saildrive boots when replacing them).

On most boats, the saildrive is meant to be installed and removed from the top, and only the bulb at the bottom, housing the prop‑shaft bearings, has to go through the hull, so the opening often isn't very big.  We strongly recommend grinding the hole to open it up a bit, as the flanges joining the 2 halves of the saildrive are 8.25" (21cm) in diameter.  If you can't grind it open that much, grind it open as much as you can.  It will help tremendously, especially when putting the leg back together.  If you decide to open the hole up more once you've removed the leg, make sure you protect the gearbox from your grindings.  You don't want fiberglass (or anything else) in the saildrive oil.

Looking up the hole, you should now be able to see the flange, with the 8 bolts holding it to the gearbox above.  The bolts need an Allen‑key, so we use one from our socket‑set, with a long extension.  Loosen the bolts as you would a car‑wheel, loosening one and then the bolt opposite that one, so you don't warp the flange.  Loosen all the bolts a turn or 2, and then go back and remove them completely.  Have someone help you hold the leg up before removing the last 2 bolts.  If the hole in the hull isn't big enough, the leg may have to be tilted on its side to get it out.

The top of the lower driveshaft should be sticking out the top of the leg, possibly with the short joiner section that joins it to the upper driveshaft.  If the joiner is not sitting on the lower driveshaft un‑stick it from the upper driveshaft in the gearbox and put it somewhere safe.

At this point, you can do whatever it was that you needed to do to the leg that required its removal.

If you're needing to replace the main diaphragm, there are some additional steps.  Note that the service manual says that the main diaphragm needs to be replaced every few years.  This is pure CYA hogwash.  In 2019 we replaced our starboard diaphragm seal that we'd installed in Tonga in 2003, so it was 16 years old, and had sailed more than halfway around the world.  It was in absolutely perfect condition.  Once we cleaned some growth off it, we couldn't tell it from our new one, either in looks, toughness, or flexibility.  So we'd say to replace the main diaphragm only when you need to, but it doesn't need to be replaced on a routine basis.

To replace the main diaphragm:

• Remove the 8 bolts holding the big alloy ring down to the inside of the hull.
• Put a rope around the support at the back of the saildrive and lead it to a winch.
• Gently raise the back of the saildrive, with the ring attached, up about 4" (10cm).
• Remove the old diaphragm.  It should fall out easily, but it might need some help.
• Clean any corrosion from the thick grooves under the alloy ring and under the flange for the leg.  Also clean the inside of the hull, where it will sit.
• Smear some silicon or synthetic (non‑oil‑based) grease in those grooves, on the hull where it will sit, on the ridges of the diaphragm, and under those ridges.
• Position the new diaphragm and lower the back of the saildrive back down to the hull, making sure the diaphragm snuggles completely into the grooves.
• Replace the bolts holding the alloy ring to the hull and tighten them to the correct torque.
• You may also want to replace the secondary seal (see Secondary Seals above).

Replacing the leg:

First, clean both mating surfaces thoroughly.  Make sure there are no dings or burrs or any debris that might keep the flanges from coming completely together.  Run your fingers over the surfaces as sometimes you can feel things that you can't see.  Pay special attention to the groove where the O‑ring will seat.  If the O‑ring doesn't seal completely, water can get into the oil, so this is extremely important.  You should also probably put the gearbox into gear, to keep the upper driveshaft from spinning.

There should be an O‑ring around the base of the cylindrical column that sticks out of the top of the leg.  We just reused what was there when we replaced our diaphragms, and that worked, but the O‑ring should really be replaced if possible.  And this is where it gets ticklish.  The stock Yanmar O‑ring is 70mm in diameter and 3mm thick.  But this is too big to fit snuggly on the leg.  If you start with it there, you'll almost certainly pinch it against the gearbox and it won't seal correctly.  So you have to put it inside the lip of the gearbox.  But if you touch it with anything (like the lower driveshaft as you're trying to juggle it into position) then the O‑ring will fall out of position.  And since you can't see it when it goes back together, you can't tell if it's properly positioned or not!  Yanmar really only designed the leg to be reattached to the gearbox while on a workbench.  But removing the gearbox from the engine so it can be worked on is a HUGE job.

Luckily, there are a few things you can do to help the situation (and these tricks, learned at the school of experience and hard knocks, are the main reason we're publishing this section).

• Use a slightly smaller diameter O‑ring so it fits snuggly on the protrusion of the leg.  Going from 70mm to 65mm shouldn't affect that O‑ring's ability to seal that joint significantly.  Even a 60mm O‑ring that's 4mm thick will work, and this is a much more common size (and is what we've used).  With the O‑ring held snuggly around the projection on the leg, there's no chance that it will get knocked out of position when the leg is trying to mate to the gearbox.  We smeared a thick layer of extra grease around the O‑ring, to help it seal.
• If you can't get a smaller O‑ring, then get some contact cement and glue the O‑ring into the upper groove.  Put a thin layer of contact cement on the gearbox where the O‑ring will sit (against the top, not on the sides) and put a thin layer on one side (but not the outer edge) of the O‑ring.  Wait until the contact cement is dry, and then push the O‑ring against the glue, pushing it firmly into position.  In a pinch, you might be able to use super‑glue, but contact cement is basically rubber when it cures, while super‑glue cures harder and could be a problem if/when you have to remove that O‑ring next time.  Once the O‑ring is held in place, you can apply a good layer of grease around it to help it seal.
• The upper and lower driveshafts will have to mate together, and this is not as easy as it sounds because the 2 driveshafts have to be exactly aligned for the splines to mesh.  But it's much easier if you make some guides to position the leg correctly.  Cut some lengths of 10mm threaded‑rod into about 3" (8cm) lengths.  We've only needed 2, but friends have said it's easier with 3 or 4.  Screw these into the holes in the gearbox where the flange bolts will go, spacing them evenly around the flange.  If you've ground your opening enough that your leg can drop straight out, then you'll be able to use more guides, but if your flange is bigger than your opening, you may not be able to get more than 2 guides into position.  We have to use fore and aft holes for our guides.
• The coupler that joins the upper and lower driveshafts together needs to be fitted to the end of one of the driveshafts.  If you've ground out enough of the hull that the leg can go straight in/out, then put the coupler on top of the lower shaft, with a bit of grease on the splines.  However, if you have to wriggle the leg flange through the opening before you can position it, putting the coupler on the end of the lower driveshaft may make it too long to get in easily, or at all.  In this case (and this is what we have to do) the coupler will have to go on the end of the upper driveshaft, which means you'll need to figure out a way to hold it from falling off the shaft.  We used a tiny bit of paper masking tape on the spline.  This isn't ideal, but the paper will shred and won't hurt the gears later.
• The flange‑bolts are stainless steel, threading into aluminum.  Add a bit of seawater and you've got a corrosion nightmare.  To mitigate this, coat the threads in an anti‑corrosion compound.  We use Tefgel for parts that we want to take apart later, or DuraLac for a bit of locking (recommend DuraLac for this application).  We tend not to use Loctite compounds, as they often provide too much locking and not enough corrosion resistance.  Have the bolts with their coated threads close by, as you'll need at least 2 of them quickly.

You should now be ready for reassembly.  Having 2‑3 people for this will help.  Lift the leg up into the hole in the hull, line it up correctly, fit the flange‑guides into the correct holes, and slide the leg up the guides.  Getting the driveshaft splines to mate can be tricky, but once you get the leg aligned correctly, push up gently while someone turns the propshaft gently back and forth until the splines mate and the leg slides up the last inch or 2.  Then, while holding the leg up (don't let it slip down!) have someone run a couple of the flange‑bolts in finger tight.  Then the leg can be let go, the guides removed, and the rest of the bolts screwed in.  Tighten them in star order, like a car wheel, bringing them snug first, and then tightening them up to their correct torque.

If you want to epoxy coat the leg, this would be a good time to do that.  See our sealing the leg with epoxy section above for instructions (even if you don't plan to use copper‑based antifouling paints, but just want to protect the leg).

Finally, slide the boot over the bulb at the bottom of the saildrive, up the leg, and fasten it in place.  We usually use a mastic like quick‑dry 5200 and then stainless steel strips along each side with screws into the hull.  See our saildrive boots section above for more.

Replacing the oil seal on the input shaft from the engine This, as they say, is a cow of a job, but when that seal starts leaking, it needs to be replaced.  For us, this happened to both of our saildrives at about 8300 hours.  We noticed the oil level in our header tank going down, and thick oil leaking out of the bottom of the bell‑housing between the engine and the saildrive.  On our port engine, this was accompanied by a grating noise like bearings trying to tear themselves apart whenever the engine was on (not even in gear).

Taking out that gear‑cluster to replace the seal means you should really replace the bearings as well.  You can order the seal (Yanmar #101158‑02220) and bearings (2, Yanmar #24141‑302060) from your favorite Yanmar dealer, but Yanmar doesn't actually make seals or bearings, and it's usually cheaper and easier to buy the generic parts (which are exactly the same as what Yanmar uses).  The seals are: 62x40x8 (those are mm for OD, ID, & width).  There are several bearing possibilities, but if you ask your bearing shop they can cross‑match them.  We used 2 Timken 30206M‑90KM1 bearings, and when we removed our original "Yanmar" bearings, we found they were actually Timken bearings with that exact number on them!

The first time we did this, we hauled Ocelot out of the water, but the 2 nd time there was no slip available so we did the job in the water.  The difficult part is that you need to support the engine and slide it forward about 8" (20cm).  For us, our engines are (mostly) under our aft beds, so we removed the cushions and built a wooden A‑frame to support a pair of chain‑hoists.  The varnished wood under our beds was slippery enough to slide the A‑frame around, even when it was supporting our 4JH2 engine.

This procedure is very similar for SD‑20, SD‑30, and SD‑31 sail‑drives.  Of course, if you have access to a sail‑drive service manual, that will show you more than I can here, and goes into more detail.  This is more of a thumbnail sketch, more to help you decide if you want to do the job yourself or get help.  It sounded pretty scary to us at first (Jon hates digging into gearboxes) but as usual, it turned out to be much easier once we got into it.  We had a pair of mechanics do essentially the whole job in Kudat (NE Borneo) the first time we had to do it.  The second time, we hired a mechanic to help, but he knew nothing about sail‑drives.  Jon gave all the directions, but Peter helped, drifted the bearings out, and he ran the hydraulic press to put the bearings back.

• Drain the saildrive oil.  If you're doing this in the water, the oil will fall out when you remove the gear‑cluster, and will make a bit of a mess, but that can be cleaned up later.
• Support the engine, especially at the back where it connects to the saildrive.  Small wedges are handy here.
• Support the saildrive by tying a pair of ropes to the foot and securing the ropes to the deck, forward of the saildrives, on each side of the hull.  The saildrive is only supported at the back, and you don't want it to fall forward (or sideways).
• Setup your engine lift/slide mechanism.  We used a quick‑&‑dirty wooden structure, with a pair of small chain‑hoists.
• Unbolt the 8 bolts around the bell‑housing, as well as anything else in the way of sliding the engine forward.  For the front of the engine this usually means where the engine‑mounts bolt to the hull, or where they bolt to the support legs, or removing the support legs.  On Ocelot we had to remove alternators as well.
• Gently take the weight off the engine supports with chain‑hoists, and slide the engine forward 8" (20cm).  You'll probably need to pry the bell‑housing and engine apart, as the bell housing sticks into the engine about 1/4" or 6mm.
• Reach inside the bell‑housing and remove the 8 long bolts holding it to the saildrive, and remove the bell‑housing completely.
• Remove the 4 bolts holding in the gear‑cluster and remove the cluster.  Make sure to notice where the hole is for the oil (top or bottom).  Don't damage the shims.
• On the sail‑drive end of the input shaft, bend down the locking tab and remove the nut.  It's a strange nut, and will probably have to be tapped around with a hammer and screwdriver.  If you can, building a socket to drive this nut will allow you to properly torque this nut when putting the gear‑cluster back together.
• Remove the bevel‑gear, and use hammers and wood or aluminum drifts to tap the bearings and seal out of the holder.  Several other shims and spacers will come out as well.  Make sure you know what order to put them back.
• Grease where the bearings will go.  Press (or possibly tap) the new bearings into place, making sure they're oriented the original direction.
• Reassemble the gears, shims, and spacers that were removed.  Slather everything liberally in grease.
• Tighten the nut at the end to 2.5‑3.5Kgm (20 foot‑lbs).  Since the nut is strange, you may have to estimate this.  The bearings should be tight but rotate easily.
• Since we're sure our gears have worn slightly, we decided to leave out one shim when reassembling.  The Service Manual gives better instructions on how to measure exactly how much shim you need, but we didn't have the resources (special tools, etc) that it called for.
• On SD30 and 31, the seal runs against a spacer block.  The inside of that block has an O‑ring that should be replaced.  The SD‑20 doesn't have this, as the seal runs directly on the shaft.
• Replace the seal, making sure you don't damage the inner lips
• Replace the gear cluster in the sail‑drive, making sure to put the lubrication hole as you found it (up or down - pinion shaft assemblies prior to number D/#0454 should be up).
• Tighten the bolts to 0.5‑.7Kg‑m or about 5 ft‑lbs.
• Replace the bell housing, tightening the bolts to 1.4‑1.6Kg‑m, or 10 ft‑lbs.
• Slide the engine back and mate it to the input shaft.  This can be tricky.  You may have to rotate the input shaft slightly for the gears to mate correctly.
• When the engine and bell housing are about 1/4" (6mm) apart, run the bolts in finger tight.
• Tighten the bolts in a crosswise fashion (one bolt, then its opposite partner, like a car wheel), a little bit at a time until they're snug and the bell housing has been pulled up against the engine.  Then bring them to their specified torque (1.4‑1.6Kg‑m, or 10 ft‑lbs).
• Secure the engine to its bearers, replacing whatever was removed earlier.
• Refill the sail‑drive with oil.

This took us about a day, or more precisely, 2 half‑days for each sail‑drive.  It looks long, but there's nothing really that complicated.  OK, a certified mechanic might shudder at the idea of putting a gearbox back together without measuring all sorts of clearances, but we decided that the sail‑drive was functioning pretty well before the seal let go, and nothing that we'd done was going to make that any worse.  So it should be as good as it was before, and probably a bit better because of the new bearings, even without futzing with all the shims (that we didn't have).

It turns out that nothing is really supporting that upper drive‑shaft except bearings, and those bearings aren't tight at all.  In fact, the whole job can be done with the boat in the water!  Although it's much less messy if you're hauled out and can drain the oil out of the saildrive first.

Yanmar's design has the bevel‑gear at the end of the (horizontal) input‑shaft mating to 2 bevel‑gears that ride on the vertical drive‑shaft.  These 2 are always spinning, in opposite directions, whenever the engine is running.  Between these 2 bevel‑gears is a small clutch that's splined to the drive‑shaft and can slide up or down to mate to either of the spinning bevel‑gears, thereby driving the shaft in either direction, forward or reverse.  On SD‑20, 30, and 31, this dog‑clutch engages with a bit of a bang, but it's very positive.  With later saildrives, Yanmar went to cone‑clutches, which apparently have a tendency to slip if not adjusted exactly right.

The bevel‑gears each have 3 bearings: a large outer bearing, and a pair of small needle‑bearings on the inside, between the gears and the shaft.  Without taking the saildrive out of the boat, or even disconnecting it from the engine, it's pretty easy to replace 5 of the 6 bearings, as well as the shaft and the dog‑clutch.  The large outer bearing around the lower bevel‑gear is trapped by the input shaft, and can't be removed until the input shaft is removed, but the inner needle‑bearings all come out when the shaft is lifted out.

As above, this procedure is very similar for SD‑20, SD‑30, and SD‑31 sail‑drives.  Of course, if you have access to a sail‑drive service manual, that will show you more than I can here, and goes into more detail.  This is more of a thumbnail sketch, to help you decide if you want to do the job yourself or get help.  It sounded pretty scary to us at first but it turned out to be really easy once I got into it.  I did all the work myself, with a bit of help to remove the old bearings from the outsides of the bevel‑gears.  Since I had them open, I decided to replace all the bearings I could.  Starboard was completely out of the boat, so I replaced all 6 bearings, but the dog‑clutch was fine.  On port, I couldn't replace the big lower bearing without a lot more work, so I only replaced 5 of the 6 bearings, as well as the dog‑clutch, as it had been slipping recently and was badly worn.

• Drain the sail‑drive oil.  If you're doing this in the water, some oil will drain out when you remove the shift mechanism.
• Disconnect the shift‑cable from the arm on the side of the sail‑drive.
• Remove the 4 bolts and remove the shift mechanism.
• Remove the 4 bolts on top of the sail‑drive, tap the top lightly, and remove it.  The upper (reversing) bevel‑gear and it's big outer bearing should come off as well.
• Grab the top of the drive‑shaft, wiggle it slightly so it lets go of the splined joiner at its bottom, and lift the upper drive‑shaft out, complete with dog‑clutch and needle‑bearings(!!)
• Remove the circlips at each end of the drive‑shaft, and remove the 2 pairs of needle‑bearings.  Keep track of the spacers.
• If you're going to replace the dog‑clutch, align it so the ears (dogs) are vertical, put a rag over it to catch flying parts, and push it to the end of the spline.  There are 2 ball‑bearings pushed out by a spring inside the dog‑clutch, and the rag is to catch those parts before they spring out of sight.  The balls should be aligned under the dogs of the clutch.

Reassembly is essentially reversing the above.  Slather everything in grease, of course.

Taking the big outer bearings off the bevel‑gears is a bit of a challenge, as they're obviously pressed on.  We held the bearings tightly in a big vice (squeeze it between 2 pieces of wood if you can) and used a pair of strong screwdrivers to apply pressure to separate the bearing from the gear.  While one person was doing that, the other was hammering on a socket placed over the end of the gear, to pound the gear out from the inside of the bearing.  It took some doing, but once we did the first one, the others went pretty easily.  Pressing the new bearings onto the bevel‑gears is straightforward if you have a hydraulic press, but the service manual also talks about tapping them together with a hammer.

The shifter is bronze, and is running in a groove in the dog‑clutch (which is steel).  The shifter can wear, which means the dog‑clutch may not fully engage the bevel‑gear, causing it to slip with a loud CLUNK every few seconds.  We replaced the shifters on both sides, since we had them out.  Replacing that shifter (Yanmar #196311‑06080) involves removing a tapered split‑pin to remove the arm from the shaft, and then removing the circlip that holds the shifter to the arm.  It's extremely important to take photos or make drawings of exactly how it was put together before taking it apart, as it's very easy to put it back together backwards, especially when putting the arm back on the shaft.  When replacing the shift mechanism back into the sail‑drive, make sure the shifter is sitting happily in the groove of the dog‑clutch before bolting everything back together.

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Understanding Sail Drives: What They Are and How They Work

Alex Morgan

Introduction to Sail Drive

When it comes to sailing, there are various components and systems that contribute to the functionality and performance of a sailboat. One such element is the sail drive, an essential part of many modern sailboats. In this article, we will explore what a sail drive is, how it works, the types available, and the benefits of using a sail drive.

What is a Sail Drive?

A sail drive is a propulsion system commonly used in sailboats. It combines both the engine and the propeller into one compact unit, providing a streamlined and efficient solution for powering the vessel. By integrating the engine and propeller, the sail drive eliminates the need for a separate shaft and reduction gear, making it a space-saving and convenient option.

Components of a Sail Drive

A sail drive consists of several key components that work together to ensure smooth propulsion. These components typically include a diesel engine , a gearbox , a shaft , and a folding or feathering propeller . The sail drive unit is usually mounted directly on the transom of the sailboat, providing a direct connection between the engine and the propeller.

How Does a Sail Drive Work?

The sail drive operates by transmitting power from the engine through the gearbox to the propeller. The engine generates power, which is then converted and transferred to the propeller via the sail drive system. As the propeller rotates, it creates forward or backward thrust, propelling the boat through the water.

The Function of the Sail Drive

One of the key functions of a sail drive is to provide efficient and maneuverable propulsion for the sailboat. The integration of the engine and propeller in a compact unit allows for improved handling and control. Sail drives are known for their smooth operation, reduced vibration, and enhanced maneuverability.

Advantages of Using a Sail Drive

There are several advantages to using a sail drive system on a sailboat. The streamlined design of the sail drive reduces drag, resulting in improved performance and sailing efficiency. Sail drives offer increased maneuverability, making docking and maneuvering in tight spaces easier. Sail drives are easier to maintain compared to traditional shaft and propeller systems, reducing maintenance time and costs. Sail drives contribute to increased fuel efficiency, allowing for longer sailing adventures.

In the next sections, we will delve into the different types of sail drives available and further explore the benefits and considerations when choosing a sail drive for your sailboat.

Key takeaway:

• Improved maneuverability: Sail drives offer improved maneuverability for sailboats, allowing for easier navigation and control.
• Reduced drag and improved performance: By integrating the propulsion system into the hull, sail drives reduce drag and improve the overall performance of the sailboat.
• Ease of maintenance: Sail drives are designed for easy maintenance, making it simpler for boat owners to service and repair the system.

Have you ever wondered what a sail drive actually is? Let’s dive into the world of sail drives and explore their fascinating components. From gears and shafts to propellers and housing , we’ll unravel the inner workings of this crucial sailing technology. So, buckle up and get ready to navigate through the mechanics that make a sail drive an indispensable part of sailing vessels.

The sail drive consists of three main components: the engine , the lower unit , and the propeller . These components are vital for the reliable and efficient propulsion of sailboats.

The engine is a compact and lightweight marine diesel engine specifically designed for sailboats. It provides the necessary power to propel the boat forward.

The lower unit connects the engine to the propeller and includes a gearbox and a shaft that transmit the engine’s power at the right speed and torque.

The propeller , on the other hand, is responsible for generating thrust and propulsion. It converts the rotational motion of the sail drive’s shaft into forward or backward motion.

The design and size of the propeller depend on factors such as the size, weight, and desired performance of the sailboat.

When choosing a sail drive, it is crucial to consider the quality and compatibility of these components to ensure optimal performance and reliability on the water.

Curious about the inner workings of a sail drive? Get ready to dive into the fascinating realm of sail drive mechanics. Discover how this essential component functions and learn about the advantages it brings to boating enthusiasts. From its pivotal role in propelling vessels forward to the various benefits it offers, this section explores everything you need to know about how a sail drive works. So grab your life jacket and let’s set sail in the world of sail drives!

The function of the sail drive is to convert engine power into propulsion for sailboats. It combines a propulsion system and a rudder for forward and directional control, consisting of key components such as the engine , gearbox , propeller , and transmission . The engine provides power that is transmitted through the gearbox to the propeller, creating thrust to move the boat forward.

Utilizing a sail drive offers numerous advantages in terms of efficiency and control, enabling smooth maneuvering in various sailing conditions. The design of the sail drive helps reduce drag, thereby improving overall performance and fuel efficiency. Maintenance and service of the sail drive are made easier due to its accessibility for inspection and repairs.

When selecting a sail drive, it is important to consider factors such as the sailboat’s design, size, power, and thrust requirements. In addition, factors like maintenance, serviceability, cost, and budget should also be taken into account.

Using a sail drive system on a sailboat offers several advantages. It enhances maneuverability , reduces drag, and improves overall performance. Sail drives are also easy to maintain and result in increased fuel efficiency. These advantages make sail drives a popular choice for sailboat owners seeking to optimize their sailing experience.

Types of Sail Drives

When it comes to sail drives, there are different types that every sailing enthusiast should know. In this section, we’ll explore the two main categories: inboard sail drives and outboard sail drives . Get ready to dive into the intricacies of these sail drive variations and discover how they can make a difference in your sailing experience. So, whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a curious beginner, let’s set sail and explore the fascinating world of sail drives!

1. Inboard Sail Drives

A table providing information on inboard sail drives:

Pro-tip: When considering inboard sail drives, carefully assess your sailboat’s design, size, and power requirements. Also, don’t overlook maintenance and serviceability. Ensure proper lubrication and regular oil changes to enhance sail drive longevity and performance.

2. Outboard Sail Drives

Outboard sail drives are a type of sail drive system used in sailboats. They consist of an engine and a gearbox mounted on the exterior of the boat. Outboard sail drives, also known as Outboard Sail Drives, are smaller and lighter compared to inboard sail drives. They offer increased flexibility in boat design as they can be easily added or removed. Outboard sail drives provide a simpler installation process and easier maintenance. They are popular for smaller sailboats and boats with shallow drafts. Outboard sail drives provide excellent maneuverability for easy docking and maneuvering in tight spaces. They offer improved fuel efficiency compared to traditional shaft drives and generally have reduced drag, resulting in better overall performance. When choosing an outboard sail drive, consider the size and design of your sailboat to ensure compatibility. Also, consider power and thrust requirements to ensure sufficient propulsion. Maintenance, serviceability, cost, and budget should also be factors in your decision-making process.

Benefits of Using a Sail Drive

Unleash the power of a sail drive on your boat and experience a world of benefits! From improved maneuverability to reduced drag and enhanced performance, we’ll explore how a sail drive can transform your sailing experience. Discover the ease of maintenance it offers and the increased fuel efficiency that will save you both time and money. Get ready to set sail with confidence and efficiency as we delve into the advantages of using a sail drive.

1. Improved Maneuverability

Improved maneuverability is a key advantage of using a sail drive. Here are some factors to consider:

– Enhanced turning ability: Sail drives offer better maneuverability compared to traditional shaft drives. The propeller is positioned close to the boat’s keel, allowing for tighter turns and increased agility.

– Directional control: The positioning of the sail drive propeller provides better control over the boat’s direction, making navigation in tight spaces or challenging conditions easier.

– Quick response: Sail drives have a direct drive connection to the engine, resulting in immediate response and maneuvering capabilities.

When choosing a sail drive, consider the specific needs of your sailboat and your intended use:

– Size and design of the sailboat: Larger sailboats may require more powerful sail drives for effective maneuverability. Smaller sailboats may benefit from compact and lightweight sail drives.

– Sailing conditions: Consider the type of waters you’ll be navigating, such as narrow channels or crowded marinas, and choose a sail drive that offers excellent maneuverability in those conditions.

– Power and thrust requirements: Assess the power and thrust needed for your sailboat based on its size, displacement, and intended use. A higher-powered sail drive may offer improved maneuverability.

– Maintenance and serviceability: Look for a sail drive that is easy to maintain and service, ensuring that any potential maintenance or repair needs won’t hinder your ability to maneuver effectively.

Considering these factors will help you choose a sail drive that offers improved maneuverability and enhances your overall sailing experience.

2. Reduced Drag and Improved Performance

Sail drives offer reduced drag and improved performance for sailboats. Here are a few reasons why:

• Efficiency: Sail drives are highly efficient, reducing drag compared to traditional propulsion systems. This improvement allows the boat to glide through the water with less resistance, resulting in better speed and performance.
• Maneuverability: Sail drives improve maneuverability, making it easier to navigate tight spaces and handle the boat in various conditions. The reduced drag helps the boat respond quickly to helm inputs, allowing for precise control.
• Acceleration: With reduced drag, sail drives provide better acceleration, allowing the boat to pick up speed quickly. This is beneficial when maneuvering in challenging conditions or competing in races.
• Overall Performance: The combination of reduced drag and improved maneuverability leads to enhanced overall performance. Sail drives optimize the power and thrust generated by the propulsion system, resulting in a smoother and more efficient sailing experience.

Throughout history, sailors have sought ways to improve their vessel’s performance. From the invention of the sail to modern advancements in sail drives, the goal has always been to effectively harness the power of wind and water. Sail drives have revolutionized the sailing industry by minimizing drag and maximizing performance. By continuously refining and optimizing sail drives, sailors can enjoy faster, more efficient, and more enjoyable experiences on the water.

3. Ease of Maintenance

When it comes to ease of maintenance, sail drives have numerous advantages that make them a popular choice for boat owners.

Sail drives are designed to require less maintenance compared to traditional shaft systems.

They have fewer moving parts and do not need to be aligned with the propeller shaft, which simplifies tasks such as greasing and adjusting belts.

Additionally, sail drives are constructed to be easily accessible, enabling straightforward inspections and routine maintenance.

These drives often incorporate efficient cooling systems, which not only help prolong their lifespan but also reduce the need for frequent maintenance or repairs.

Many sail drive manufacturers offer comprehensive support, including maintenance guidelines and prompt customer service.

Due to their robust construction, sail drives are built to withstand harsh marine environments, resulting in less frequent maintenance requirements and a longer lifespan when compared to other propulsion systems.

All these factors contribute to the advantage of ease of maintenance that sail drives provide to boat owners, allowing them to devote more time to enjoying their sailing experience and less time to maintenance tasks.

4. Increased Fuel Efficiency

• Using sail drives can lead to increased fuel efficiency on sailboats.
• By integrating the propulsion system into the hull, sailboats can minimize drag and improve vessel performance.
• This reduction in drag allows sailboats to glide smoothly through the water, resulting in the need for less power to maintain speed.
• Compared to traditional shaft drives, sail drives can provide up to a 25% fuel savings.
• The improved fuel efficiency of sail drives benefits the environment by reducing carbon emissions and helps boat owners save money on fuel costs.

Fact: Sail drives are commonly utilized in modern sailboats to enhance fuel efficiency and save money for sailors.

Considerations When Choosing a Sail Drive

When it comes to choosing a sail drive , there are several important factors to consider. From sailboat design and size to power and thrust requirements, maintenance and serviceability, as well as cost and budget, each element plays a crucial role in the decision-making process. So, whether you’re a seasoned sailor or new to the water, understanding these considerations will help you make an informed choice when it comes to selecting the right sail drive for your needs.

1. Sailboat Design and Size

When selecting a sail drive for your sailboat, it is important to take into account the sailboat’s design and size. There are several factors to consider, such as the size and weight of the sailboat. Larger sailboats typically require more powerful sail drives in order to maintain maneuverability.

Another factor to consider is the type of keel on your sailboat. The type of keel can influence your choice of sail drive. The type of rigging on your sailboat may require special consideration for sail drive placement and clearance.

The intended use of your sailboat is an important factor to consider. Racing sailboats may require more powerful sail drives, while cruising sailboats may prioritize fuel efficiency.

By taking these factors into consideration, you can choose the appropriate sail drive for your sailboat’s specific needs in terms of design and size.

2. Power and Thrust Requirements

When analyzing power and thrust requirements for a sail drive, it is crucial to consider the specific needs of the sailboat. Factors such as sailboat design and size, operational conditions, intended usage, and engine compatibility must all be taken into account.

Larger sailboats with more weight will necessitate a sail drive with higher power and thrust capabilities. Similarly, challenging conditions will require sail drives with increased power and thrust capacities. In the context of racing, a sail drive with greater power and thrust capabilities may be preferred, while recreational sailing may necessitate moderate power and thrust capacities.

It is vital to ensure that the sail drive is compatible with the sailboat’s engine. By considering all these factors, sailboat owners can select a sail drive that fulfills the specific power and thrust requirements of their vessel, resulting in optimal performance and maneuverability on the water.

The sailing experience for enthusiasts worldwide has substantially improved over time due to technological advancements, which have led to the development of more efficient and powerful sail drives .

3. Maintenance and Serviceability

Sail drives require regular maintenance and serviceability for long-lasting and reliable performance. It is essential to clean them regularly to remove debris, marine growth, and salt build-up. It is important to regularly check the fluid levels , such as oil or lubricants, as prescribed by the manufacturer. Inspecting seals and gaskets for wear or damage is crucial to prevent water leakage and potential internal harm. It is essential to keep the propeller clean and free from entanglements, and also inspect it regularly for any damage or imbalance. By creating and adhering to a maintenance schedule , you can ensure smooth and efficient operation of the sail drive for many years to come.

4. Cost and Budget

The cost and budget are crucial factors to consider when selecting the appropriate sail drive for your sailboat. It is essential to take into account not only the initial cost but also the long-term maintenance and operating expenses associated with it.

1. Initial Cost:

The cost of a sail drive can vary depending on factors such as the brand, model, and power output. Generally, inboard sail drives are pricier than outboard sail drives due to their higher power and integrated design. To find the best deal, it’s important to research and compare prices from different manufacturers.

2. Maintenance and Serviceability:

It is crucial to consider the maintenance and service requirements of the sail drive. Regular inspections, oil changes, and potential repairs are all part of the equation. Choosing a sail drive known for its durability and easy servicing with accessible parts is recommended.

3. Fuel Efficiency:

The fuel efficiency of the sail drive is another factor to take into account. Opting for a more fuel-efficient sail drive can result in significant long-term cost savings. Look for sail drives that are specifically designed to maximize fuel efficiency and minimize consumption.

4. Overall Budget:

It is vital to align the cost of the sail drive with your overall budget for the sailboat. This includes not only upfront expenses but also installation fees and any necessary upgrades.

Considering all these aspects will help you make an informed decision regarding the cost and budget of your sail drive.

Some Facts About What Is A Sail Drive:

• ✅ Saildrives are commonly used on modern sailboats instead of standard shaft-and-strut running gear. (Source: boats.com)
• ✅ Saildrives offer flexibility in hull design, ease of installation, and improved efficiency and performance. (Source: boats.com)
• ✅ Yanmar and Volvo are the main manufacturers of saildrives. (Source: hackingfamily.com)
• ✅ Saildrives have lower initial cost and provide a quieter and smoother experience for boaters. (Source: boats.com)
• ✅ Saildrives are commonly used on catamarans due to their compact size. (Source: hackingfamily.com)

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a saildrive and how does it work.

A saildrive is a transmission system used in boats with an inboard engine that has a horizontal output shaft. It consists of an input shaft that is also horizontal and is geared to drive a vertical intermediate shaft that extends downward through the hull. The intermediate shaft is then geared to drive a horizontal propeller shaft mounted on a skeg outside the hull. This creates a Z-shaped transition from horizontal to vertical and back to horizontal.

What are the advantages of using a saildrive?

Saildrives offer several advantages over traditional sailboat transmissions. They are smaller in size, reducing the need for a stuffing box to maintain. The propeller is mounted horizontally, eliminating the downward angle seen in conventional drives. Saildrives reduce propeller walk, vibration, and are more efficient. They provide flexibility in hull design, ease of installation, and improved efficiency and performance.

What are the maintenance concerns with saildrives?

While saildrives offer various benefits, there are maintenance concerns to consider. The integrity of the watertight seal around the drive leg is essential, as it prevents water from entering the saildrive. The seals that keep the oil in and the water out must also function properly. Neglecting maintenance procedures can be costly, and corrosion is a frequent issue with saildrives. Anodes are used to provide corrosion protection for the drive, and their replacement should be based on the water conditions the boat is in.

What modifications can be done to maintain a saildrive?

There are several modifications and procedures that can be done to maintain and repair saildrives. These include installing oil header tanks to prevent water from entering the saildrive, using secondary seals as a backup in case the primary seal fails, installing plastic bag screens to prevent debris from damaging the saildrive, replacing the water inlet valve to avoid calcium deposits, sealing the leg with epoxy to protect against bimetallic action, creating custom saildrive boots, and properly removing and replacing various components when necessary.

Which manufacturers offer saildrives?

The two major saildrive manufacturers are Volvo Penta and Yanmar. Beta Marine, Lombardini, and Nanni also offer saildrives.

What are the potential drawbacks of saildrives?

While saildrives have numerous advantages, there are potential drawbacks to consider. Maintenance concerns, such as ensuring the watertight seal, can be more demanding compared to conventional shaft drives. Corrosion can also be a recurring issue. Some boat builders, like Catalina Yachts and Antares Yachts, choose not to use saildrives due to concerns about maintenance. Early saildrive technology has shown lower resale prices compared to boats with conventional shafts.

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Evaluating modern catamarans

Catamarans have been around, especially in the Pacific, for several thousand years. Early islanders sailed large twin-hulled canoes many thousands of miles, generally from Southeast Asia eastward to discover new island homes.

Modern multihull production started with the catamarans of Hawaiian Rudy Choy in 1947. The first cruising catamaran to circumnavigate was his World Cat in 1965. During the 1960s, Prout and Catalac of Great Britain were also starting to produce catamarans. Catamaran production took off in the late 1970s and early 1980s with French builders Fountaine Pajot, Catana, Lagoon and several others producing catamarans for the charter industry. Gemini also started building boats in the U.S. Soon afterward, South African builder St. Francis got started with a 43-foot cat in about 1990, and now a dozen others in South Africa produce about 30 percent of the world’s cruising cats.

After considerable research looking at a number of boats and more than four years aboard, full-time cruising in Southeast Asia, here are our thoughts on some important features to look for in a bluewater cruising catamaran.

Size vs. cost: As with all boats, as size increases, so does cost. We think a 42- to 48-foot cat makes a great cruising home. Any shorter, and sufficient load-carrying capacity for full-time cruising suffers; longer, and the hull and equipment costs skyrocket.

Bridge deck clearance (BDC): BDC affects the amount of noise in the boat from wave slap, especially while going upwind. We think a catamaran with about 30 inches of clearance is ideal. Increasing the BDC means more windage, which is a negative. Much less than 30 inches, and wave slap becomes a problem in rowdy sea conditions. Longitudinal under-bridge deck fins reduce wave impacts and strengthen the bridge deck. Reducing speed and falling off can also help minimize the problem. Consider how often you actually go close upwind in heavy conditions when cruising versus how much time you spend on other points of sail and in port. The St. Francis 44 has about 24 inches of BDC and it has completed many circumnavigations. However, that does not mean its BDC is ideal.

Load carrying capacity (LCC): Larger boats have more LCC for fuel, water, stores and equipment. Boats with finer hulls are faster than boats with fat hulls, but they will have less LCC. Most full-time cruisers will need at least 5,000 pounds of LCC. When asking this question, make sure you know the hull weight facts and what is included or not. Overloading a cat adversely affects speed, stability and BDC.   Beam-to-length (B/L) ratio and stability: For boats in the 42- to 48-foot range, the B/L ratio should be around 50 percent. Less than that will adversely affect stability in heavy beam winds, but larger boats can be okay with slightly less. A higher ratio adversely affects sailing characteristics. Most modern cats are in that range; older cats are somewhat narrower but also have shorter rigs. For more on this important characteristic, search the Internet for “catamaran stability.”

Integrity and quality of build: There is a big difference in build quality across manufacturers of catamarans. Things to look for include builder reputation, hardware quality and strength, use of lightweight construction materials, anodizing vs. painting of aluminum extrusions, interior woodwork finish, exterior design, and equipment quality and installation technique. If water enters older cats made of cored balsa or plywood, there are often maintenance problems. A good construction practice is to make the underwater hulls of solid fiberglass, and the topsides and decks of foam-cored fiberglass. Solid underwater sections are more impact resistant and easier to repair; they also make adding thru-hulls less of a problem. But they do add weight. If enough of the boat is made with lightweight cored fiberglass, the hull will not sink in case of a major collision or capsizing. This is a major catamaran safety feature, as it is always better to be upside-down on the surface than right-side up on the bottom.

Engine and power train: Having two engines is a major catamaran benefit. Engine and sail drive location on a lightweight catamaran affects pitching in a seaway, so a central location is better for weight distribution. However, a watertight bulkhead between an aft engine room and main cabins can prevent major flooding in case of shaft or sail drive damage. Engines under bunks or accessible only from aft deck hatches are a problem for routine maintenance and underway repairs, especially in rough weather. Sail drives simplify installations but aren’t as robust as a traditional transmission and shaft installation. From a maintenance standpoint, ensure you can perform routine maintenance easily and remove the engine from the boat if necessary. I consider our amidships engines ideal, but my wife does not agree that the galley is a good place for an engine.

Stub keels vs. daggerboards: Most cruisers prefer stub keels over daggerboards because they allow for drying out on the keel bottoms, can give extra tankage and a double bottom, include a deep bilge, and protect props and rudders from grounding damage. Daggerboards allow slightly higher pointing ability and speed in a narrow, upwind steering angle. However, the trunk and board are hard to clean and paint, the board is vulnerable to grounding and floating debris, and it can get stuck. Most modern catamarans built for cruising feature well-designed stub keels using NACA foil specifications.

Rigging and sails: In order to help prevent losing the mast if a standing rigging component fails, doubled shrouds and headstays are better than singles. We prefer mechanical wire end fittings because in case of a wire failure overseas we would be able to replace it ourselves. There should be sufficient winches to handle all sheets, halyards and reefing lines in an efficient manner. Pay particular attention to how easily reefing is accomplished. Can a light-air sail, a boom vang and preventers be accommodated? Will the mast height allow passage under the 65-foot height restriction for the U.S. inland waterways?

Helm placement: The primary helm station should be well out of the weather, have unobstructed visibility to all four corners of the boat, be quickly accessible from the cockpit, and have all controls and instruments available. Double helm stations, especially those aft on the hull decks and flying bridges, as well as those requiring looking through the saloon windows to see forward, can all be problematic. We think the best option is a single helm station on the forward cockpit bulkhead, well protected from wind and water, and with a good view in all directions — especially forward. Some modern catamaran designs feature a single-level main cabin overhead and cockpit top, which may conflict with the above desirable features.

Galley location: For those subject to seasickness, galley location can be a personal issue. But for cats less than about 48 feet, locating a large galley with adequate storage in the saloon is a problem. A galley, navigation/office station, dinette table and seating, and three entry/exits are all competing for space there. Further, an adequately sized and located navigation station, galley clutter and light contamination underway are potential problems in “galley up” boats. However, ventilation, crew interaction and seasickness issues are sometimes improved. Ideally, a large refrigerator, pantry and significant galley storage would all be co-located and on the same level with the galley. “Galley up” may be attractive, especially on weeklong charters with guests, but for the other reasons, we prefer the “galley down” arrangement for full-time cruising.

Navigation station: When full-time cruising, the navigation station becomes important for navigating, communicating and office use. Additionally, the circuit breaker panel, most electronics and battery/charging controls should be located there. Ideally, it would be positioned forward in the saloon with a comfortable seat and a good view forward.

Ground tackle: As one of the more heavily loaded systems on a cruising boat, high strength and no weak links are important for all ground tackle equipment. Look for double anchor rollers, strong bridle attachment fittings and good ground tackle storage arrangements. One of the better bridle attachment points is at the bow crossbeam to hull fittings. These should be exceptionally strong, and many boats have specially designed attachment fittings here. Ensure bridle-to-chain attachment fittings are full strength, removal can be done quickly, muddy chain can be washed effectively and that the chain locker is deep enough to minimize chain castles. The windlass should be robust enough to handle the boat’s ground tackle in at least gale conditions. Choose your anchors carefully; large scoops, like the Spade or Rocna, perform much better than older designs.

Decks: Uncluttered and relatively flat decks are preferred for safety at sea. Nonskid needs to be aggressive enough to ensure no crew slippage when wet. Fittings should be very robust and of quality construction. At least six large cleats should be very strongly mounted with large backing plates to spread out heavy loads. Many modern cats have little or no exposed teak — a feature I appreciate.

Bows and rudders: Bows and rudders should be strongly reinforced on their leading edges and designed so as not to catch lines and logs underway. Modern vertical and reverse stems, as well as spade rudders, have more of a problem with this than traditional skeg-hung rudders and bow shapes. Both keels and rudders should be designed to NACA specifications in order to perform efficiently.

Liquid capacities: For full-time cruising overseas, we think an onboard fuel capacity for a 1,200-nm range on one engine and about three weeks of water are ideal. At our average use of about seven gallons per day, about 150 gallons gives us more than 20 days of water. That is enough for many long ocean passages if there is no rain and the watermaker quits. Many modern charter cats have a large water capacity but a small one for fuel.

Watermaker: A large-capacity (approximately 40 gallons per hour) watermaker makes good sense in order to reduce the unit’s run time and the weight of stored fresh water aboard. Simple mechanically driven units are far less expensive, are less of a maintenance problem and can have higher capacity than 12-volt electrical units. We almost always are able to run ours when otherwise underway, so there is little need to run it at anchor — and most of the time we can collect sufficient rainwater anyway.

Refrigeration: As full-time cruisers overseas, we prefer a separate front-loading refrigerator for its convenient and quick interior access. However, the freezer needs to be top loading to provide good thermal efficiency. Capacities of up to 10 cubic feet for the refrigerator and 4 cubic feet for the freezer will provide good long-term storage. These are manageable for electrical energy usage, provided good system design and proper insulation values are used. However, many refrigeration boxes are deficient in insulation. The closer the refrigerator is to the galley the better from the cook’s point of view.

Cockpit covers: A well-designed solid cockpit cover should be able to prevent rain from entering the cockpit through the use of removable front and side curtains, facilitate access to the mainsail and the back of the boom, allow for mounting multiple solar panels, and be able to collect a significant amount of fresh rain water. Careful design will prevent water from entering the cockpit during rains while still allowing some ventilation. Ensure the edges won’t drip on the cockpit seats or instruments. Lightweight construction is a plus.

Dinghy davits: Some dinghy davits are incorporated into an arch or tubular support for the cockpit top. These need to be very strongly constructed because the dinghy usually lives there at sea. It should allow hoisting of the dinghy well above the water to help prevent theft and wave slap.

Saloon windows and doors: Extra strength and careful design are required to prevent large breaking waves from flooding the boat and easy entry by an intruder. Thick polycarbonate/Lexan or safety glass is best; acrylic/Plexiglas should not be used. Inspect the window mountings and door hardware carefully for adequate strength and watertightness. Consider main cabin window designs that limit heat entry from the midday sun.

Ventilation: Multiple opening hatches and ports should ventilate every space, especially the saloon, galley, sleeping quarters and heads. We have 14 hatches, six ports and two escape hatches — all opening. Escape hatches provide excellent ventilation, should be large enough for you to pass through, and should be located at least 18 inches above the waterline to prevent flooding while open at anchor. All should be of quality manufacture with tight replaceable seals. Provisions to prevent intruder entry are a plus. Consider how well ventilated the cockpit is in light wind conditions.

Crash bulkheads: Modern catamarans have crash bulkheads located forward and aft in each hull to prevent collision flooding. They should be well sealed from adjacent spaces and have door lips well above the waterline. Obviously, these are not places for heavy gear. Installation of large holding tanks, which are usually empty at sea, can provide a double bottom in the bow.

There is plenty here to consider before purchasing a cruising catamaran. Many modern cats are built for the lucrative charter trade and have features that may not work well — like minimal fuel storage capacity — for full-time ocean cruising. Some of these can be corrected or improved, some cannot. There is much good information on the Internet, but be suspicious of dealer hype. Ask specific questions and request proof of anything that doesn’t seem right. Make a list of what to look for before going aboard a potential purchase.   Although most cruisers spend 90 percent of their time in port, due consideration should also be given to features that enhance safety and comfort at sea. Most catamarans are optimized for tropics cruising and are probably not the best choices for high-latitude voyaging.

There is no perfect catamaran with all the features you will want, so be prepared to compromise somewhat. Photos and more detail are available on our website below, under a slide presentation titled “ Evaluating Modern Catamarans .”

Dave McCampbell is a retired U.S. Navy diving and salvage officer with over 40 years’ cruising and eight sailboats’ worth of maintenance experience. He and his wife, Sherry, have recently cruised the eastern portion of Southeast Asia, including the Philippines, Raja Ampat, Papua New Guinea and the Solomons. Earlier, they spent eight years slowly crossing the Pacific. After 19 years aboard their CSY 44 monohull, they bought a St. Francis 44 Mk II catamaran in 2015.

By Ocean Navigator

9 Safest Catamarans For Cruising, Circumnavigation and Why!

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Catamarans (cats) have become sailors’ favorite sea vessels in recent years, thanks to the extra space, comfort, and speed they offer. Additionally, they’ve built a reputation for their unrivaled safety. But which are the safest catamarans on the market?

The safest cruising catamarans offer a good beam to length ratio, sail fast, and are over 42ft. These include the Manta 42, the Lagoon 450F, and the Catana 44. They are stable, waterproof, easy to handle in stormy weather, and feature a sturdy design.

When boarding a boat, you expect to get to your destination safely, and with your bluewater boat intact, this is what cats are made for, but not all cats are created equal. Read on to learn what to consider when assessing a catamaran’s safety and check out my list of the safest cats available!

Table of Contents

What Does It Mean To Say a Catamaran Is Safe?

Cruising for weeks on open water comes with several risks, like strong winds, heavy rains, and other potentially dangerous obstacles. Because of that, you need a bluewater boat that’s designed to take a beating from the most demanding conditions because if you compromise your safety, you might end up in a very dire situation with possible deadly outcomes.

What does it mean to say something is safe?

In this context, the word safe means protected from danger , free from harm, or not likely to lose the boat, as well as not likely to cause danger or harm to either personal or cat.

Therefore, when a catamaran is said to be safe, it comes with features that protect you and your crew from danger. As a result, it would be best to consider a catamaran’s safety features before choosing it.

Here are some of the factors i (and sailboat engineers i should add) consider to be the most critical when determining a cat’s safety:

Beam-to-Length Ratio

Although catamarans generally have exceptional stability, this aspect is always relative, as you’ll find some cats more stable in rough seas than others. Therefore, you’ll want to check their beam-to-length ratio. As a general rule, a boat in the 42 to the 48-foot range should have a beam to length ratio of about 50%.

A ratio lower than that can hurt your boat’s stability in heavy winds, but a larger boat can be okay with a lower value. On the other hand, a larger ratio can make sailing more difficult.

Engine and Powertrain

Catamarans come with twin engines, which is a significant benefit since you can always use one if the other fails. However, a poor choice of engine location can be a safety risk. Generally, a central location distributes the weight evenly, which is better for safety.

On bigger cats, this is not much of a problem since the weight of the engines is only a small fraction of the total weight of the boat. But on smaller and lighter ships, weight location is of greater interest.

Nonetheless, a watertight bulkhead between the main cabin and engine room prevents flooding if the sail drive or shaft gets damaged. 

Having strong engines will also make the boat go faster and offer extra protection from getting stuck in bad weather.

Build Integrity and Quality

Build quality is a critical factor when determining whether a given cat is safe, depending on the nature of your voyages. You’ll want to check the manufacturer’s reputation, the strength and quality of the materials used, and waterproofing features. 

For instance, catamarans made of plywood or cored balsas are could be less safe since they often have maintenance problems once water enters them.

The underwater section of a cat should be solid, impact-resistant, and easy to repair for the boat to be considered safe. A significant portion of the vessel must be made of lightweight fiberglass to prevent the hull from sinking during a collision or capsizing. In other words, you’re safer with your boat upside-down on the water surface than right-side-up but submerged.

Check for Uncluttered and Flat Decks

A cat’s deck is another essential factor to consider when assessing its safety. Generally, uncluttered and flat decks tend to be safer for sailing since the risk of tripping or getting in stuck on something is reduced. Most notably, you should check if your boat comes with an aggressive non-skid surface to prevent slip and fall accidents among your crew. The deck should have robust, quality fittings and large backing plates to distribute heavy loads evenly.

Shrouds and stays should be located so they only minimally interfere with moving about on deck.

Helm Placement and Cockpit Protection

The primary helm station should have an unobstructed view of all four corners of your cat that should be well protected from the elements, like wind and water, and accessible from the cockpit. The idea is to prevent damage to your cat by the weather and prevent flooding, which compromises your safety.

Cockpit Covers

Your cat’s cockpit cover can make or break it under heavy rains. A carefully designed cover protects it from water infiltration when it’s raining and allows for sufficient ventilation. 

Generally, the best cockpit covers come with removable curtains, allow for solar panel mounting, and can collect a significant amount of rainwater, which your crew can drink and use for washing.

Now that you have an idea of the things to consider when evaluating a cat’s safety, chances are you’re thinking of reviewing some of the boats on the market to determine if they’re suitable for your needs. To get you started on finding your dream boat I have put together this list, here are some of the best bluewater boats worth considering:

If you are looking for a specific type of cat i suggest you read on of my other articles such as:

• Best cats under 200k
• Best cats under 50ft
• Best cats for couples
• Best liveaboard cats

The Manta 42

Arguably, the Manta 42 holds near-iconic status among sailors because it has a solid reputation as a capable, practical long-range sailing bluewater boat. The laminated hull-to-deck joint and collision bulkheads create watertight compartments at the end of each hull, making the multihull flood-proof.

For additional structural integrity, the manufacturer joins the hull and deck using high-grade marine sealants and reinforces it with a 360-degree unidirectional laminate.

Overall, this is an excellent cruising cat. 

It offers an impressive sail-area-to displacement ratio and a pretty decent amount of deck and interior space, and its pushpit contraptions come in handy when you need to secure wind vanes, solar panels, and dinghies. Undoubtedly, this boat offers great performance and stability.

Lagoon 450F

The Lagoon 450F (F stands for Flybridge) is designed to deliver prestige and safety and features a deck layout centered on an easy-to-reach flybridge . Accessing the engine controls or steering station is a breeze, especially when you need to steer away from danger.  

The cockpit comes with a dining table to the left, an attractive comfort couch to the right, and a wraparound settee. The boat’s hard dodger comes with an apt opening hatch that offers good ventilation and sunshine in favorable weather and protection from harsh conditions in bad weather.

The construction is sturdy, waterproof, and durable. Besides, its construction can withstand high impact, a solid selling point. If you need a boat that gives you ultimate control and offers all-around comfort, spaciousness, and elegance, you’ll never go wrong with this elaborate cat.

Catana cats prove that the Bali Group means business when it comes to sailors’ safety. These boats are only produced in France, so the company maintains high-quality standards. Aboard Catana, you’ll immediately notice the manufacturer’s efforts to make it safe for cruising.

For instance, this boat’s foam sandwich construction is high density and lightweight, making it unsinkable, resistant to shock and impacts, and rigid. The use of aramid fiber makes this boat even more rigid and resistant to perforation. The helmsman can continue sailing even after impact.

It also comes with crash boxes and waterproof compartments to prevent water entry after a major impact. Arguably, this is a sure-fire way to guarantee buoyancy, making this boat hard to sink!

You can also use the multihull’s daggerboards to tack into strong winds and heavy weather, enabling it to glide over waves instead of capsizing. The high bridge deck clearance is another boost to safety since it prevents waves from reaching the cat’s deck.

Aventura 44

The Aventura 44 is the successor to the Aventura 43 built between 2012 and 2017, and its safety features are profound. 

The deck mold is integrated with its coachroof to make it lightweight and buoyant, while the hulls feature polyester with NPG Gelcoat. Its structural partitions come with laminated CTBX plywood, and the rudders come with foam-epoxy composite and a stainless-steel stock, making it solid and durable.

This boat can withstand high impact from waves, winds, and collisions because of its ingenious construction. The company proudly tells how they intentionally oversized much of the hardware just to make sure it is up for offshore cruising.

Fountaine Pajot Elba 45

The Elba 45 is a well-respected blue water cruiser, as it is safe, dependable, and beautiful to look at. The slightly aft-raked bows and fixed stub keels deliver excellent windward performance.

The multihull features keels glued into a recess in its hulls, ensuring no keel bolts will rip out if it gets grounded or collides. Because of that, this boat deserves to be mentioned among the safest.  

Safety aside, this boat provides ultimate bliss while cruising, as it comes with a generous living space with a large sofa, low dining table, and an open galley. The interior fittings in the cabins allow your crew to settle comfortably with an en-suite bathroom in each cabin.

As some put it, this is a true catamaran and it deserves a sweet spot for anyone looking for adventurous, open water cruising.

Dolphin Ocema 42

The Dolphin 42 is the ideal option for any sailor looking for a catamaran that defies all conventions. It comes with daggerboards, which you can use to point higher into the wind and also reduce the draft when anchoring or moving in shallow water thus reducing the risk of grounding.

This vessel balances stunning performance and remarkable comfort in one package, a rare feat in blue water boats. The foam core makes it lightweight and impact-resistant at the same time, making cruising in the most demanding conditions less strenuous.

If you need a cruising boat that will never let you down, then you can never go wrong with the Dolphin 42.

Caveat: Pointing high on the wind using this boat requires pretty decent sailing expertise. If you lift the daggerboards too high, you may expose the rudders or interfere with the hulls if it runs aground.

Atlantic 42

Since its introduction in 1993, the Atlantic 42 has grown its loyal fan base, thanks to its aesthetics and efficiency.

The multihull comes with a high-waist cockpit located in front of the pilothouse and behind its mast. As evidenced by the metal girder-like bearers that transverse the bulkheads, the solid construction is a selling point for any cruising enthusiast with safety considerations in mind. 

Most notably, these features make it stronger, improve circulation, and offers a helm position in the middle of the boat.

Although some consider this boat’s style conservative, its durable, impact-resistant build quality is unrivaled. Without a doubt, the Atlantic 42 is built with your safety in mind, but it also comes with beautiful interior and exterior finishes. If you need a boat that delivers comfort, safety, and efficiency in a compact package, you’ll never go wrong with this blue water cruiser.

Outremer 45

Looking at the Outremer 45, you can tell that it took careful, detailed planning to build. Its weight distribution is remarkably balanced for added stability, and it minimizes pitching, ensuring you have the smoothest sailing. Its parts meet international quality and safety standards.

The boat’s interior structure is pretty stiff since the components are directly laminated to its hull, improving its sturdiness.

It features the proprietary Jefa steering system, which is light and highly responsive to winds, a true mark of a quality multihull. If you try out its autopilot feature, you’ll immediately notice how its rigs and hulls balance remarkably.

In a nutshell, this boat is designed to take good care of your crew. 

It comes in different versions, like an owner’s version, a club version with additional berths in the owner’s hull, and a four-cabin version. Arguably, this multihull deserves to be on the list of the best and safest blue water catamarans.

What Is The Best Sized Catamaran For Ocean Sailing?

The best-sized catamaran for ocean sailing is around 42ft; it is small enough to be sailed by one person but big enough to provide safety and speed. But, of course, there are many variables to consider, if you want to understand why, I suggest you read my article on the topic:

Best sized Catamaran for Ocean Sailing and Liveaboard?

Wrapping Up

Cruising on a catamaran can be thrilling and worthwhile, as they come with impressive features that make them the favorite option for those seeking open water adventure. They offer incredible comfort, speed, maneuverability, and room space. Besides, they’re safer than monohull boats, thanks to their twin-hull design, which uniformly distributes their load.

Nonetheless, before buying any of the cats mentioned in this article, ensure you check the following specifications about them:

• Their beam-to-length ratio
• Helm placement
• Their structural integrity and quality
• Passagemaker: The Top Catamarans of 2020
• Sail Magazine: 10 Great Cruising Cats
• Catamaran Guru: Catamaran Safety
• Dream Yacht Sales: Best Catamaran Brands Guide – 6 Top Catamarans
• Aeroyacht: Catamaran Safety
• Yachts International: Sailboat Debate: Monohull vs. Catamaran
• PureTravel: Are Catamarans Safe in Rough Seas?
• Ocean Navigator: Evaluating Modern Catamarans
• Velmundi: Catamarans – Advantages and Disadvantages
• Catamaransite: Brand: Manta 42
• Multihull Solutions: Catana Safety
• Sail Magazine: Boat Review: Outremer 45
• Instant Sailing: Lagoon 450 F: Prestige at Its Peak
• Sail Magazine: Heavy Weather Strategies When Sailing a Catamaran
• Caribbean Multihulls: Fountaine Pajot Elba 45
• Boat Safe: Best Catamarans (Plus Pro Tips and Buying Guide)

Owner of CatamaranFreedom.com. A minimalist that has lived in a caravan in Sweden, 35ft Monohull in the Bahamas, and right now in his self-built Van. He just started the next adventure, to circumnavigate the world on a Catamaran!

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Deep Blue Hybrid

Deep blue is a fully integrated propulsion and energy management system, industrially engineered and customizable with modular components. the result is exceptional performance, compliance with international safety standards, and highly intuitive operability.

• Relaxation: no noise from the motor and only a little noise from the generator
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• Simplicity: only one type of fuel – and less of it required

System Overview of the Hybrid Drive System

System Components

High-capacity lithium battery technology.

Lithium-based batteries are the technology of choice for electric mobility applications. They store significantly more energy than all other batteries, they maintain a high current, they do not lose their charging capacity, they supply power reliably, and have no memory effect. They also have a much longer useful life than lead-based batteries.

The benefits for customers:

• High energy density

• Lower costs

• Long service life

• Highest quality and safety standards

Dimensions and preliminary specifications

Click here to learn more about battery technology

Economical auxiliary power

Third-party generators can be integrated into the Deep Blue system via the DC generator interface developed by Torqeedo. The converter generators eliminate the fixed ratio between rotational speed, power and voltage output.

Integrated into the information, safety and energy management system of the Deep Blue Hybrid, the generators produce any combination of power and voltage as required, adopted to individual setting.

Third-party generators can be integrated into the Deep Blue system via the DC generator interface developed by Torqeedo, providing long-range motoring and efficient backup power for serial hybrid systems. The converter generators eliminate the fixed ratio between rotational speed, power and voltage output.

Integrated into the information, safety and energy management system of the Deep Blue Hybrid, the generators produce any combination of power and voltage as required, adopted to individual setttings.

Technical Data

Typical application areas

Perfect for ...

• Torqeedo Deep Blue Hybrid drives with shaft power from 25 to 100 kW (equivalent to 40 – 160 HP)

• Sailing yachts, ferries, water taxis, etc., with hull lengths from 40 to 110 feet (12 – 33 m)

Highly flexible thanks to four operating modes

The Deep Blue Advanced Energy Management System offers four ways of conveniently operating the hybrid system automatically:

Electrical drive power, on-board power and charging power of the highest standard

The Advanced Hybrid Control System for the Torqeedo Deep Blue Hybrid system controls the generator to optimum effect (single or twin installations). It provides a reliable supply of electricity for 360V DC boat drive systems as well as all other 110/230V AC and 24V DC power supply systems on board:

Hybrid and charging power for the Torqeedo Deep Blue system

• AC on-board power supply for galley, air conditioning, water maker and other electrical consumers on board (hotel loads)

• Low-voltage DC power for lighting, radio, navigation, winches, etc.

Always in control

Deep Blue Hybrid offers intuitive operation presented on the multifunctional display, providing a complete overview of the entire system and access to all control functions.

The software keeps an eye on everything and prevents errors like deep-discharging batteries. An easy-to-understand graphical user interface is available as either multihull or monohull and delivers complete, up-tothe- minute system visualisation.

Premium throttles

We’ve come to expect an intuitive way to operate our technical devices. We expect detailed information, nicely displayed and clearly arranged. We expect that the objects we use are both beautiful and functional.

This is what spurred us to create the new Torqeedo throttle family and improved user interface for Deep Blue.

Our premium throttles offer the right solution for every application, whether for sailboats or on motorboats – ergonomic, strong and functional. All premium throttles come with Bluetooth built in for simple integration of Torqeedo’s TorqTrac smartphone app.

Hybrid Drive System and Integrated Energy Management

Hybrid drive system.

Powerful and silent electric drive systems allow manoeuvring and sailing at hull speed.

High-performance batteries adapted from the automotive industry enable prolonged motor-cruising for up to 50+ nautical miles without use of a generator. Solar power generated on board and hydro-generated energy – the propeller rotates while boat is under sail – provide additional propulsion. Besides, the integrated generator provides sufficient energy to cover long distances, if required.

The slowly rotating electric drives allow precise maneuvering and in combination with joystick docking makes putting out to sea and berthing as easy as pie.

Integrated energy management

The integrated management system of Deep Blue Hybrid makes it possible to use available power in any way you wish – for the powerful high-voltage drive system, for the 24 V on-board power supply or to operate equipment with 230 V AC current. Deep Blue Hybrid is designed in such a way that energy is always available where it's needed.

The combination of energy generated from renewable sources and by the generator means that there is always sufficient power available. However, the generator does not need to run for as long.

Clean and safe electricity can be used for all equipment and so it is no longer necessary to have propane or petrol on board. A tender can also be run electrically and can be charged from the Deep Blue Hybrid on-board power system.

Professional Safety

Professional safety for your sailing yacht.

Particular attention should be paid to standards compliance and safety during the development of a hybrid drive system. During the years spent on developing the Deep Blue Hybrid system we followed safety concepts that, for example, are standard in the automotive industry – but which previously could not be found in powerful electric drive systems for electric sailing yachts.

In addition, electrical drive systems for electric sailing yachts pose special challenges that are not relevant for other industries. In this respect, it is not enough to just follow the standard of other industries for high-voltage boat drives. As we are used to setting new standards, we have done so with regard to safety. Below you will find a number of examples of the Deep Blue Hybrid's unique safety concept.

Isolation monitor: constantly monitors that the voltage from all 360 V components is completely isolated from the boat – not just for individual system components but for all of them. If damage is detected, e.g. to the cable insulation, the system will issue an alert. In the event of dangerous insulation failure, the system will be shut down.

All components are waterproof: Components that were not specifically developed for boats are not always waterproof. All the components of a high-power system on a boat must be waterproof to guarantee safe operation. That is why all of our components are waterproofed.

Automotive industry-level battery safety: The first lithium batteries for the marine industry with the advanced quality standards of the automotive sector are the result of Torqeedo's collaboration with established battery manufacturers. Integrating a battery into a drive system and the associated safety concept alone requires considerable effort that can only be achieved by working together with the battery manufacturer.

Battery venting: In the unlikely event that the redundant safety mechanisms of the battery fail, the battery cells can reduce their temperature and pressure via a pressure valve. While batteries are installed in electric cars in such a way that they can discharge battery gases directly onto the road, on electric boats the gases must be channelled safely off the vessel. We developed the first safe venting system for boats for the Deep Blue System.

Battery damping: All components on fast and seagoing boats are subject to constant high levels of shock that exceed shock levels on the road – in some cases over 12 g of acceleration force. The same holds true when trailering the boat. Since batteries and battery electronics are not designed for these constant impacts, they need their own damping system on boats (in addition to the damping mechanisms within the battery). Torqeedo is the only company in the world that provides this for maritime use.

Benefits for Boatbuilders

Custom-built solutions are often pursued in order to meet a user's requirements. These individual hybrid projects raise a number of difficulties:

• High-end components do not exist for the custom project. High-tech safe lithium batteries, for example, require an intensive design-in process in close cooperation with the battery manufacturer's research and development department. However, reputable high-voltage battery manufacturers do not supply their batteries for custom solutions that they are not familiar with and that have not been coordinated with them in detail.
• Creating an integrated hybrid system requires a comprehensive research and development project accompanied by many person-years in the field of development running to the tune of several million euros. These efforts are not undertaken for custom projects, leading to lower reliability and a lack of complex but important safety features (such as pilot lines).
• The system integrator has the statutory duty to ensure that the hybrid system complies with all the relevant and mandatory standards such as the Machinery Directive and the EMC Directive. Custom hybrid systems do not generally meet these standards. Since a boatbuilder is responsible for ensuring that the entire boat complies with standards, the installation of custom-built hybrid systems constitutes a serious risk for boatbuilders.

Unlike custom-built hybrid systems, DEEP BLUE HYBRID addresses the requirements of environmentally aware customers, offering a turnkey solution that guarantees compliance with the relevant norms and standards.

• DEEP BLUE HYBRID was created in an extensive research and development project involving a large number of mechanical and electrical engineers over several years. The components were carefully selected and coordinated with an overall system. Essential inspections and certifications were performed at system level.
• High-end components such as hybrid batteries from the automotive industry were integrated into the system.
• Torqeedo assumes responsibility for the functionality and compliance with relevant standards for the whole system.
• DEEP BLUE HYBRID was developed on the basis of modular components. It allows flexibility and scalability without affecting system integration and reliability.
• DEEP BLUE HYBRID for electric ferrys, electric sailing yachts, electric catamarans & electric water taxis.

If we have awakened your interest in our products we would be pleased to send you more detailed information. Simply enter your details in the contact form below and we will get in touch with shortly.

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• Cabins: 4 or 5
• Heads: 4 to 6
• Berths: 6 to 12
• Showers: 4 to 6

SPECIAL OFFER

• LOA: 50 ft 6 in / 15.4 m
• LWL: 48 ft 11 in / 14.9 m
• Beam: 26 ft 5 in / 8.04 m
• Draft: 5 ft 3 in / 1.61 m
• Mast Height: 77 ft 2 in / 23.52 m
• Bridgedeck Clearance: 3 ft 5 in / 1.03 m
• Engine: 2x 57 hp
• Propeller Dimensions: 3‐blade 18in x 14in
• Engine No. Cylinders: 4
• Fuel: 243 gal / 920 L

EXTRA DETAILS

• Bunk Dimensions:  View Leopard Range Bunk Dimensions
• Headroom:  View Leopard Range Headroom Dimensions
• Water: 185 gal / 700 L
• Mainsail Area (Standard): 964 sqft / 89.6 sqm
• Mainsail Area (Square Top): 1019 sqft / 94.7 sqm
• Genoa Area: 688 sqft / 63.9 sqm
• Spinnaker Area: 204 sqft / 2199 sqm
• Code 0 Area: 970 sqft / 90.1 sqm
• Code D Area: 1690 sqft / 157 sqm
• Total Upwind Area (Standard): 1652 sqft / 153.5 sqm
• Polars:  View Leopard 50 Performance Documents
• Displacement: 41888 lbs / 19000 kg
• Load Carrying Capacity: 15432 lbs / 7000 kg
• Holding Tank Capacity: 45 gal / 170 L

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A parallel hybrid system

Introducing ecodrive. a parallel hybrid system.

EcoDrive is a robust and redundant hybrid electric/diesel propulsion system designed to deliver a multitude of benefits. Originally conceived in conjunction with the HH44, the Parallel Hybrid EcoDrive is a ground breaking industry advancement that we’re proud to now offer on all HH Catamaran models.

How it works

A traditional Diesel engine is coupled with a large electric motor. Much like an alternator sits on a diesel engine today, a belt connects the two units and a simple cam shaft allows the user to switch between the two, creating the ultimate redundant propulsion system.

How long can the boat run in Electric Mode?

This depends on the size of the unit and the size of the boat (we offer this across our range), but on average the systems are designed to conservatively offer 1.5-3 hours of silent, fume free, electric propulsion without requiring the owner to carry an unnecessarily large battery bank. This should be more than enough time to exit the marina or anchorage, hoist sails and regenerate power as you sail away. With 4.2kW of solar, the lithium batteries should charge quickly and massively extend the range.

Why not all electric?

Working with other brands, the Hudson Yacht Group has built several serial electric/diesel hybrid boats, and the technology used has been historically problematic.

We feel the battery technology today is not ready for an electric-only boat. We took the learnings from these previous projects and are working to develop a system that is ready now , and that can be trusted to provide a reliable, trouble free, eco-friendly option to our clients.

• Call today on:01202 621631
• For Sonic Spares call: 0208 3377543

Product Range

• Over 40 years experience
• Sonic Sterndrives & Saildrive Parts
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Large range of Propellers in stock

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Sonic Type 2

Sonic Type 2 Catamaran Drive

SONIC DRIVES ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE - SPARE PARTS ONLY

Similar to the SONIC 70 and available in lengths of 800, 900, 1000 and 1200 mm. Maximum input torque 15kg/mtr. The catamaran drives are normally mounted from the Bridge Deck or in a pod slung beneath - all have lifting feature of 70 and 100 drive.

DIRECT Drive

• Designed in the form of direct drive system to allow inboard engines to use their existing gearboxes.
• Facilities for charging ship’s batteries with engine whilst having outdrive leg raised when under sail.
• Reduced drag with slimmer underwater shape above cavitation plate.
• Astern lock either automatic or manual. cable operated.
• Increased angle of leg lift to 68°
• Simple 6 bolt fixing. Template supplied
• Engine/gearbox, input rotation LH or RH
• Steerable, affords extra manoeuvrability to your cat.
• 16” Diameter propeller for the thrust you need
• Marine grade alloy casing
• Nickel alloy gears
• Stainless steel fastners
• Double oil seals (propshaft)
• Sacrificial anode, provisio

Catalogue & Advice Downloads

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• New Windelo 50 Adventure
• New Windelo 50 Yachting
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• New Windelo 54 Yachting
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• The Windelo Innovations : performant, comfortable and eco-friendly catamarans
• Ocean Future : our ecological approach
• The Windelo Services
• Charter a Windelo catamaran
• The Windelo Shipyard
• Windelo Team
• Recruitment : Join the Windelo team

ELECTRIC HYBRID DRIVE SYSTEM For silent ecological sailing

Windelo catamarans travel silently even when under power, thanks to their electric hybrid drive system . Enjoy the sound of the waves and wind while not disturbing the wildlife as you set sail from your dream anchorage to a new destination. With our electric catamarans , no more exhaust fumes and vibrations – sailing is now a really pleasurable clean, environmentally-friendly experience .

The Windelo catamarans are fitted with two 20kW electric motors from Bellemarine . With an electric propulsion, there’s no need to warm up the electric motor. You have full power from the moment you switch it on.

Motor: A reliable high-performance electric hybrid drive system

Electric motor with a good cruising range.

• At 6 knots, the Windelo 50 has a range of nearly 4 hours and roughly 22.7nm per day with an 1120Ah battery bank.
• At 7 knots, the Windelo 50 has a range of nearly 2 hours and 17 minutes and roughly 15.47nm per day with an 1120Ah battery bank.

When the energy consumed is not compensated by renewable energies , the 18kW backup 500L diesel generator(s) start(s) up to supply the electric motors and recharge the batteries . The generator is in the aft engine bays and communicates with the Boat Management System . It starts up automatically when the batteries are low and/or when the power required is greater than the power the batteries can supply. So, the full cruising range of our catamarans on the motor is 1100 nautical miles . The generator can also be started manually by the skipper in 2 different modes:

• Cruising range mode : for example, the skipper wishes to start his generator to increase his cruising range when there is no wind.
• Recharge mode : the skipper starts his generator, which automatically switches off when the batteries are fully charged.

SALES MANAGER

Windelo is a new conception brand of innovative catamarans. Ecology is at the heart of the company with the ambition to significantly reduce the environmental impact of our boats. A range of 44 to 60 foot catamarans offering sailors the opportunity to sail with pleasure and safety on eco-friendly boats.

In full development, we are hiring a sales manager:

JOB AND MISSIONS: Managed by the director of the company, and in connection with our various services and partners, you are a key player in the launch of this new brand.

Real project manager: 1. You co-build the Windelo sales and services office, 2. You recruit, train, and drive progressively a team of passionate experts, 3. You develop and innovate in the strategy of selling Windelo boats in Europe, 4. You recruit and lead a global network of sales partners, 5. You co-build and animate the company’s service strategy: port mapping places; insurance and financing; training; owner’s manual etc.

YOUR PROFIL 1. Passionate about sailing, you practice regularly, 2. Your sense of service and customer leads you to satisfy your customers every day, 3. You are enthusiastic and motivated to work in a start-up, 4. You have 2 to 5 years’ experience in the sale of boats, 5. Bilingual French – English, you also speak a third language: German, Italian, or Spanish.

EVOLUTIVE JOB Director of sales

AVAILABILITY / PLACE OF WORK 1st Quarter 2019 / Occitanie Region, Canet en Roussillon FRANCE

TYPE OF CONTRACT AND REMUNERATION Permanent contract / fixed to be defined according to experience + variable.

If you are a passionate of sailing and this challenge to participate in the development of a company in full creation arouses your enthusiasm, welcome to send your application by e-mail to:  contact@windelo-catamaran.com

RESPONSABLE DES VENTES

Windelo consiste en la création d’une nouvelle marque de catamarans innovants. L’écologie est au coeur de l’entreprise avec pour ambition de réduire fortement l’impact environnemental de nos bateaux. Une gamme de catamarans de 44 à 60 pieds offrant aux marins la possibilité de naviguer avec plaisir et sécurité sur des bateaux éco responsables.

En plein développement, nous recrutons un(e) responsable des ventes

POSTE ET MISSIONS

Managé(e) par le directeur de l’entreprise, et en lien avec nos différents services et partenaires, vous êtes un acteur clefs du lancement de cette nouvelle marque. Véritable chef de projet :

1. Vous co-construisez le bureau des ventes et des services de Windelo, 2. Vous recrutez, formez, et animez progressivement une équipe d’experts passionnés, 3. Vous développez et innovez dans la stratégie de vente des bateaux Windelo en Europe, 4. Vous recrutez et animez un réseau mondial de partenaires de vente, 5. Vous co-construisez et animez la stratégie de service de l’entreprise : mapping des places de port ; assurance et financement ; formation ; entretien ; manuel du propriétaire etc.

VOTRE PROFIL 1. Passionné(e) de nautisme, vous naviguez régulièrement, 2. Votre sens du service et du client vous anime pour satisfaire vos clients au quotidien, 3. Vous êtes enthousiaste et motivé(e) à l’idée de travailler en équipe dans une « start-up », 4. Vous disposez de 2 à 5 ans d’expérience dans la vente de bateaux de plaisance, 5. Bilingue français – anglais, vous maitrisez également une troisième langue : allemand, italien, ou espagnol.

POSTE EVOLUTIF Directeur des ventes

DISPONIBILITÉ / LIEU DE TRAVAIL 1ier Trimestre 2019 / Région Occitanie, Canet en Roussillon FRANCE

TYPE DE CONTRAT ET REMUNERATION CDI Cadre / Fixe à définir selon expérience + variable.

Si vous êtes un(e) passionné(e) de l’univers du nautisme et que ce challenge de participer au développement d’une entreprise en pleine création suscite votre enthousiasme, merci d’adresser votre candidature par e-mail à : contact@windelo-catamaran.com

As part of the creation of new types of catamaran made in Occitanie, an audacious choice of ecological innovation has been selected in partnership with the Materials Center of « Mines d’Alès » (C2MA – IMT MINES ALES) (Gard, France). It’s a question of combining ecological performance in terms of minimizing the environmental footprint and structural resistance, and this, in a global approach of circular economy on all parts of the boat. To do this, and in connection with the IMT MINES ALES, Windelo has relied on the use of secondary raw materials, competitive  virgin petroleum-based materials, that fully comply with the specifications in terms of mechanical performance. This is a real first step to the development of a 2.0 fleet ships fully integrated into the challenges and ecological challenges of the 21st century.

Associated with an ecological approach of circular economy integrating a not insignificant part of competitive secondary raw materials from virgin materials, the architectural design and the resistance of materials on the new Windelo catamarans are mechanically tested in the Materials Center of « Mines d’Alès » (C2MA – IMT MINES ALES) (Gard, France) in connection with the architects and designers of the project. The design of the ship, and in particular the hulls and bows, go through a search for efficient structuring and arranging of materials composing it, combined with a mechanically optimized geometrical assembly. To this end, specific test developments, such as the study of distortion of the structure and of the panels constituating the hull of the ship, are studied by digital image correlation techniques coupled with standardized strength tests.

Founder of Catana

“The cruising program for this new boat raises the question of the antagonism between the search for performance under sail and the pleasure of navigation, and the development of pleasant living spaces. The originality of the answer is provided here in the arrangement of the cockpit bringing together the helm and maneuvers to the center of the boat and in the arrangement of living space that occupies the rear of the nacelle.

Just behind the mast the outer cockpit offers two helm stations protected from the wind and spray, a beautiful view of the sails and bows, and allows to have all the maneuvers on hand while limiting the needs to circulate on the bridge. Out of navigation, the cockpit can be more widely protected from the outside and open to the rear space.

Fully opened behind this cockpit, we have not developed two living spaces duplicating one inside the other but a single large space which is ajustable. We have focused our efforts on the geometry of the material and visual limits of this space and on the opening kinematics of the bays. Once opened, they “disappear” to transform the interior into an exterior. The generosity of these openings also allows to modulate the ventilation of this space by playing on a wide range of opening on its four sides

This work on the modularity and the disappearance of limits is found at the extreme rear of the nacelle, with an articulated platform to the davits transforming it into a floor when anchored, and in the rear cabins, whose wide turning porthole eliminates the angle between side plating and back side. The cabin space is therefore generous despite the relative narrowness of the hulls.

All these choices allow us to combine a contained hold of the nacelle, pledge control of the weight estimate, to a generous living space, with a central part given to navigation and maneuvering. The slenderness of the forward spikes, the significant free height under the platform, and the attention paid to the centering of the masses, complete the marine qualities expected for an offshore navigation program.

The other originality of the project brought by this new construction site is in the approach of “eco-design” on materials and construction. Strongly limiting the use of molds, the latter brings a greater margin of freedom in the variations and evolutions of the boats thus conceived. ”

Christophe Barreau et Frédéric Neuman

Architects and Naval Engineers

Who could know if it is the father or the son who is the most  passionate? It doesn’t matter. The important thing  is to write an innovative project within a family culture, for today and for generations to come. Hand over the guiding light, this is Olivier Kauffmann’s will. “At first I wanted to make my own boat, for me and my family; go on trip around the world living on a  efficient and pleasant catamaran. I dreamed of a new quality of space. Today, the dream has matured, and I want to share it with the great family of sailors. »

Windelo is the desire to expose us to something new, innovative, powerful, bigger than oneself. To seek innovations on materials, techniques of industrialization and uses to impulse a new economic reality. “We want to be part of this transformation related to the respect of our environment, it is for us, essential to work in this respect of men and nature. Men are at the heart of the project with the desire to recruit and form a passionate team, surrounded by experts recognized as the best in their field.

And the innovation doesn’t stop here, because the constructive process makes it possible to envisage fast evolutions from one boat to another while remaining well priced. An ambitious and respectful project ; Welcome to the Windelo adventure.

Dans le cadre de la confection de nouveaux types de catamaran made in Occitanie, un choix audacieux d’innovation écologique a été retenu en partenariat avec le Centre des Matériaux des Mines d’Alès (C2MA – IMT MINES ALES) (Gard). Il s’agit à la fois d’allier performance écologique en termes de minimisation de l’empreinte environnementale et résistance des structures, et ce, dans une démarche globale d’économie circulaire sur l’ensemble des parties du bateau. Pour ce faire, et en lien avec l’IMT MINES ALES, Windelo a misé sur l’utilisation de matières premières secondaires, compétitives des matériaux pétrosourcés vierges, et parfaitement conformes au cahier des charges sur le plan des performances mécaniques. C’est un réel premier pas vers l’élaboration d’une flotte de navires 2.0 s’intégrant complètement dans les enjeux et défis écologiques du XXIème siècle.

Associées à une démarche écologique d’économie circulaire intégrant une part non négligeable de matières premières secondaires concurrentielles des matières vierges, l’architecture de conception et la résistance des matériaux des nouveaux catamarans de Windelo sont éprouvées par des tests mécaniques réalisés au Centre des Matériaux des Mines d’Alès (C2MA – IMT MINES ALES) (Gard) en lien avec les architectes et designers du projet. La conception du navire, et en particulier les bordées et étraves, passe par une recherche de structuration performante de l’agencement des matériaux le composant, combinée à une géométrie d’assemblage optimisée sur le plan mécanique. Pour ce faire, des développements d’essais spécifiques, comme l’étude de la déformation de la structure des panneaux constituant la coque du navire, sont étudiés par des techniques de corrélation d’image numériques couplés à des essais de résistance mécanique normalisés.

La rencontre avec Olivier et Gautier a été une agréable surprise pour moi, dès l’exposé de leur projet, j’ai vu réunis tous les ingrédients d’une réussite, l’expérience de gestion d’entreprises mais avec une modestie rassurante, le souci de former une équipe des meilleurs experts (sourire) et une réelle écoute de leurs avis. Au fil des rencontres, les discussions ont ravivé mes souvenirs de la création puis du développement de Catana. Les mêmes motivations, la même recherche de perfection, la même audace teintée de modestie que nous avions au départ du projet. Windelo est centrée sur le produit ; une ligne de catamarans performants construits avec les techniques les plus modernes. Je n’en avais pas conscience à l’époque mais je crois que le succès d’un bon bateau vient de cette passion pour la mer avec la volonté de marier confort sécurité et performance. Je retrouve ici cette passion, et aujourd’hui ce qui a fini de me conquérir c’est le souci de préservation de la nature, tant dans les matériaux choisis que dans les méthodes de production.

Le programme de grande croisière auquel se destine ce nouveau bateau pose la question de l’antagonisme entre d’une part la recherche de performances sous voiles et du plaisir de navigation, et d’autre part l’aménagement d’espaces de vie agréables et généreux. L’originalité de la réponse apportée ici réside dans la disposition du cockpit rassemblant poste de barre et manœuvres au centre du bateau et dans le traitement de l’espace de vie qui occupe l’arrière de la nacelle. Juste en arrière du mât le cockpit extérieur offre deux postes de barre protégés du vent et des embruns, une belle vue sur les voiles et sur les étraves, et permet d’avoir l’ensemble des manœuvres à portée de main tout en limitant les besoins de circuler sur le pont. Hors navigation, le cockpit peut être plus largement protégé de l’extérieur et s’ouvrir sur l’espace arrière. De plein pied en arrière de ce cockpit, nous n’avons pas aménagé deux espaces de vie dupliqués l’un à l’intérieur et l’autre à l’extérieur mais un seul grand espace dont le degré d’ouverture est très largement modulable. Nous avons porté notre effort sur la géométrie des limites matérielles et visuelles de cet espace et sur les cinématiques d’ouverture des baies. Une fois ouvertes elles « disparaissent » pour transformer l’intérieur en extérieur. La générosité des ouvrants permet également de moduler la ventilation de cet espace en jouant sur une large gamme d’ouverture sur ses quatre côtés Ce travail sur la modularité et sur la disparition des limites se retrouve à l’extrême arrière de la nacelle, avec une plateforme articulée aux bossoirs se transformant en plancher au mouillage, et dans les cabines arrières dont le large hublot tournant fait « sauter » l’angle entre bordé latéral et face arrière. L’espace de cabine est donc généreux malgré la relative étroitesse des coques. L’ensemble de ces choix nous permet de conjuguer une emprise contenue de la nacelle, gage de maîtrise du devis de poids, à un espace à vivre généreux, avec une place centrale accordée à la navigation et aux manœuvres. L’élancement des pointes avant, l’importante hauteur libre sous nacelle, et l’attention portée au centrage des masses, complètent les qualités marines attendues pour un programme de navigation hauturière. L’autre originalité du projet apportée par ce nouveau chantier se trouve dans l’approche d’« éco-conception » portant sur les matériaux et le mode constructif. Limitant fortement le recours aux moules ce dernier apporte une plus grande marge de liberté dans les déclinaisons et évolutions des bateaux ainsi conçus.

Qui sait lequel du père ou du fils est le plus passionné ? Peu importe. L’important ici est d’écrire un projet innovant au sein d’une culture familiale, pour aujourd’hui et les générations à venir. Passer le flambeau, le relais ; c’est la volonté d’Olivier Kauffmann. « Au début je voulais me faire mon propre bateau, pour ma famille et moi ; partir faire un tour du monde sur un catamaran performant et plaisant à vivre. Je rêvais à une qualité d’espace inédite. Aujourd’hui, l’envie a mûrit, et je tiens à le partager avec la grande famille des marins ».

Windelo c’est l’envie de s’exposer à quelque chose de nouveau, d’innovant, de performant, de plus grand que soi. Aller chercher des innovations sur des matériaux, des techniques d’industrialisation, des usages et impulser une nouvelle réalité économique. « Nous voulons faire partie de cette transformation liée au respect de notre environnement, c’est pour nous indispensable d’œuvrer dans ce respect des hommes et de la nature. Les hommes sont au cœur du projet avec la volonté de recruter et former une équipe de passionnés, entourés d’experts reconnus comme les meilleurs dans leur domaine ».

Et l’innovation ne s’arrête pas là, car le process constructif permet d’envisager des évolutions rapides d’un bateau à un autre tout en restant bien placé en prix. Projet ambitieux et respectueux, bienvenu(e) dans l’aventure Windelo.

Sailing and boat tours in Greenport, Oyster Bay, Oakdale and Montauk

Passengers take in the views on the Waterfront Center’s oyster sloop Christeen sunset cruise in Oyster Bay. Credit: Marisol Diaz

On sailboat cruises from Oyster Bay to Montauk, you can relax on deck, cooled by sea spray and a glass of wine. Or you can get up off your cushion and join the hands on deck in Oakdale. 

Here's how to get a taste of cruising on Long Island's waters, whether destined for a swimming hole or merely a photo-worthy sunset.

Travel aboard the sailboat Layla, of Layla Sailing in Greenport. Credit: Randee Daddona

SAIL NEAR SHELTER ISLAND

ABOARD Layla, a 45-foot sailboat docked in Greenport

WHEN  May 27 to Sept. 2

INFO 631-319-0161, laylasailing.com

Capt. Liz Gillooly leads private sails from Greenport that explore the waters around Shelter Island. Options include shorter morning and sunset sails (from $750 for a private charter up to six passengers) and traditional half-day charters. Guests may bring their own snacks and drinks, catering options available.

The sloop Christeen is available for cruises at the Waterfront Center on West End Avenue in Oyster Bay. Credit: Jeff Bachner

SAIL WITH A SUNSET

ABOARD Christeen, a restored oyster sloop from The WaterFront Center in Oyster Bay

WHEN | WHERE  6 p.m. most days through Labor Day ($75 a person) from 1 West End Ave., Oyster Bay, reserve online. The center offers other sailing experiences, including a two-hour harbor tour ($55 a person), marine ecology cruises ($50 a person). Private charters available (starting at $1,275).

INFO 516-922-7245, sailchristeen.org

The view includes Gold Coast mansions lining tony Centre Island on cruises aboard the 40-foot sailboat. A U.S. Coast Guard-certified captain helms the ride through Oyster Bay Harbor and Cold Spring Harbor. You’ll learn about the history of Christeen, built in 1883 in Glenwood Landing and a National Historic Landmark since 1992.

Explore the seas of the East End on a sailing trip with Montauk's Catamaran Mon Tiki. Credit: Sailing MTK

SAIL WITH A SWIM

ABOARD  The Mon Tiki fleet of catamarans in Montauk 

INFO 631-668-2826, sailingmontauk.com  

The 65-foot Mon Tiki Largo, the 40-foot Mon Tiki and the 26-foot Mon Tiki Mini — all catamarans — are playfully named after explorer Thor Heyerdahl's Kon-Tiki. Amelia Ryan, who owns and operates the line with her husband, Capt. David Ryan, says the cruises explore a world beyond the chic resort community. “All of that falls away when you are out on the water with the sounds of the wind, the waves and the natural beauty,” which occasionally includes dolphin sightings, Ryan says. Passengers can bring their own lunch and beverages on a two- to three-hour private sail (starting $250) through early October, and there's plenty of time to take a plunge into the water from the vessel's swim ramp and paddleboards (life jackets provided).

The Priscilla oyster sloop, sailed by Capt. Robert Campbell in the Great South Bay. Credit: Debbie Egan-Chin

SAIL AND SIGHTSEE

ABOARD Priscilla, a restored 1888 oyster sloop from the Long Island Maritime Museum in West Sayville

WHEN | WHERE 4 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, $45 ($20 kids) or dinner sail 4 p.m. Fridays, 1 and 4 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays ($75 includes $30 food voucher), reserve online. Arrive 30 minutes before sail time at the dock behind The Snapper Inn restaurant, 500 Shore Dr., Oakdale .

INFO 631-854-4974,  sailpriscilla.org

The Long Island Maritime Museum's historic oyster sloop Priscilla hosts two-hour cruises on the Great South Bay. Some sails have included options for lunch or dinner at The Snapper Inn restaurant in Oakdale. Sails include plenty of narration that covers the ship's history among a 500-boat fleet that plied the South Shore bays for oysters. The vessel was retired in the 1960s and restored in 2002. It became a National Historic Landmark in 2006.

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